Join our guides as we climb to the summit of Mount Everest and gain the mountaineer’s ultimate expedition prize — an ascent to the top of the world. The expedition to Everest is an unparalleled journey of both legendary and epic proportion. With our full service approach to climbing Mount Everest you experience the highest chance for success — you need only gain the experience required and bring your determination.
The preparation itself for the climb of Mount Everest may include expeditions to Aconcagua, Nun, Vinson and other adventures that are worthy on their own. The commitment, training, focus and preparation climbs make this one of the world’s most incredible and rewarding lifetime journeys.
Trip Perks
Isn’t it obvious? But, ok; Mountain Madness climber Julio B. summed it up nicely, “Watching the sunrise from the Balcony was the realization of a dream. The Tibetan highlands yawned to my left, Nepal on my right, and the Earth’s curvature visible on the horizon.” After climbing Mount Everest, once you’re standing on top of the world, the hard work, pain and suffering, and the nagging question of why am I doing this?, all seem to dissolve into the ether.
Description
Since the late 19th century, adventurous spirits have been fascinated with the ascent of the highest mountain in the world. Mt. Everest rises to an imposing 29,029 feet / 8848 meters, and after 29 years of numerous attempts, Sir Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay became the first people to stand on the elusive summit on May 29, 1953. These courageous climbers ascended through to the South Col from the Khumbu Glacier, and continued their ascent to the summit via the Southeast Ridge. Their route is now referred to as the Normal Route and is the route ascended by Mountain Madness.
Our team will use classic expedition methods to gain the summit. We will start the acclimatization process with the trek to base camp. We will provide each member their own private tent at base camp. After a short rest, we will make the brief trek over to the base of Lobuche Peak for an acclimatization summit climb to 20,075 feet/6,119 meters. Once on Everest three-person, four season tents will be used. Two to three people will sleep in each tent at higher camps. A pyramid of camps will be established by the guides and Sherpas who will fix ropes, stock camps and provide leadership and support for the climb. This will enable you to carry lighter loads, thus saving your strength for the summit bid. Oxygen will be provided for all team members and is traditionally used above Camp III. With tremendous leadership, our strong team of high altitude Sherpas, and the finest equipment and services, you will have an outstanding shot at reaching the summit of the highest mountain on the planet.
Want to climb Mt. Everest without going to the summit? Check out our Khumbu Icefall Climb to 21,000 feet or our Everest Base Camp Trek to experience what all the buzz is about.
Mountain Madness Strategy
Mountain Madness has been running successful expeditions to Everest since 1994 with more than 40 team members making it to the top of the highest point on earth. Our focus is on individual attention to our team members and this is accomplished by keeping our groups small, with average group size about 3 – 6 members. We are committed to providing you with the best quality service and experience to help you reach your goal.
Current Mount Everest Expeditions
Mountain Madness tends to run expeditions every other year or based on demand. For some team members the planning starts years before the climb and this allows us to organize according to individual’s schedule and what additional training they may need before embarking on this expedition.
The Climbing Strategy for Everest
Because it’s critical to acclimatize properly to maintain health and fitness and avoid altitude problems, Mountain Madness begins the slow acclimatization process with a leisurely 9‑day trek to base camp. Once at base camp a pyramid of camps is established. Our experienced guides and Sherpas will fix ropes, stock camps and provide leadership and support for the climb. This enables you to carry lighter loads and save your strength for the summit bid. Oxygen will be used for all team members above Camp 3.
The highest camp in the acclimatization process is Camp 4 at nearly 8000 meters, and from there we will begin our summit attempt. Team members leave for the summit late evening to allow adequate time to reach the summit by mid-morning. Mountain Madness equipment, service, and support are of the highest quality, providing you with an outstanding chance of reaching the top of the highest mountain on the planet.
All Mountain Madness lead guides on Mount Everest have made successful ascents on the mountain. In addition to having summited Everest, our lead guides have extensive past high-altitude guiding experience that will contribute to your chances of success. Our client to guide ratio is 4:1 for the lead Western guide, with a 1:1 client to Sherpa guide ratio. Our Sherpa Team is one of the best teams of high altitude climbing support on the mountain. Our Nepal staff has worked with us for many years to ensure quality and dependable performance. Many of our Sherpa staff also have multiple ascents of Mt. Everest.
Qualifications
Climbing to the roof of the world is a serious undertaking for any mountaineer. We require that you have proven high altitude experience, technical proficiency, and the physical fitness to handle the rigors of the ascent. You should be familiar with extreme cold, extended hypoxic conditions, tent living, exposure to steep terrain, and more.
Climbing Mount Everest: Do You Need Training?
Yes, all climbers are required to have past high-altitude mountaineering experience. In addition, members should be able to ascend and descend fixed lines independently and be proficient with cramponing on steep ice/snow slopes.
An example of sufficient training & experience would include a combination of the following in a logical progression:
Mental Fitness: On Everest, your attitude and mental toughness will dictate whether your reach the summit as much as your physical fitness. Mountain Madness will do its part to prepare the way, but when the time comes to push for the summit, your mental strength will decide whether or not you make it. Arriving on the mountain as mentally and physically prepared as possible will certainly increase your chances of summiting.
Exercise: Proper conditioning is critical to your success on Everest. Obviously, good physical conditioning is essential to be successful at high altitude. Your training regimen should include intense cardiovascular workouts as well as overall strength building. Your aim should be to gain muscle mass and endurance. Long distance running, mountain biking, and cross country skiing are several sports which will help you get in shape. Get your heart rate up and keep it there for long stretches. Your workout schedule should include four to five days of cardiovascular training 1 to 2 hours minimum per workout. Being able to hike or climb stairs with a 50 lb/23 kg pack with 3,000 feet/909 meters elevation gain at least two days a week is imperative. Heading into the climb as prepared as possible will help give you the edge to go for the top. Hit the weights for upper body conditioning. Imagine the strain of jugging (ascending) fixed lines at 25,000 feet/8,250 meters on the Lhotse Face, or climbing the Hillary Step at 28,000 feet/8,485 meters, then head for the gym! Our climb is pre-monsoon, and the Lhotse Face will be icy, so get those calves in shape for front pointing!
Reading list
EVEREST/CLIMBING
Everest: The West Ridge Hornbein, Tom 1989. 181 pp, color photos. The first American ascent of Everest, and traverse of the summit via the West Ridge.
High Adventure Hillary, Edmund 1955, 1st UK or American edition. 224 pp, 22 ill. Hillary’s principal book on his Everest climb. Includes the 1951 Reconnaissance Expedition, the Cho Oyu attempt, and his Everest success.
Kathmandu to Mount Everest Uchida, Ryohei 1991. 128 pp, 180 color photos. A complete description of the entire Khumbu region of Nepal, with lavish photographic coverage. Practical information on travel and trekking.
Seven Summits Bass, Dick; Wells, Frank and Ridgeway, Rick 1986. 336 pp, color photos. Bass was the first person to climb the seven continental summits. This book started the modern quest to climb continental, national and state high points.
The Crystal Horizon Messner, Reinhold 1998. 322 pp, color photos. Messner’s remarkable solo ascent of Everest without oxygen has captured the imagination of the climbing world like no other single event since the first ascent in 1953. This is his record of the mental, emotional and physical efforts to succeed beyond the limits of human endurance.
Climbing Mt. Everest: A Bibliography Salkeld and J. Boyle 1993. A bibliography of every book or magazine article ever written on Mt. Everest. Includes a chronology of climbs.
GENERAL
Trekking in Nepal: A Traveler’s Guide Bezruchka, Steven Mountaineers, Seattle, Washington; sixth edition, 1991.
Insight Guide to Nepal Hoefer, H.J. et al A.P.A. Productions, 1983 (Highly Recommended). 30
Insight Guide to Nepal Raj, Prakash
Lonely Planet, South Yarra, Vic. Australia.
Many People Come, Looking, Looking Rowell, Galen The Mountaineers, 1980.
HISTORICAL
An Account of the Kingdom of Nepal, and of the Territories Annexed to This Dominion by House of Gurkha Hamilton, Francis Archibold Constable and Co. Edinburgh, 1819.
History of Nepal Wright, Daniel, editor; Vamsavali With an Introductory Sketch of the Country and People of Nepal. Translated from the Parbatiya. University Press 1877, Cambridge. Second Edition, Susil Gupta, Calcutta 1958.
PEOPLES, ART AND CULTURE
Hindu-Buddhist Festivals of Nepal Hemanta K. Jha South Asia Books, 1996.
Festivals of Nepal Anderson, Mary M George Allen and Unwin, London, 1971.
The Art of Nepal Aran, Lydia Ratna Pustak Bhandar, Kathmandu, 1974.
People of Nepal Bista, Dor Bahadur
Rhythms of a Himalayan Village Downs, Hugh R. Harper & Rowe, New York, 1980.
The Sherpas of Nepal & Buddhist Highlanders Furer-Haimendorf, Christoph von University of California Press, Berkeley and Los Angeles, 1964.
Schoolhouse in the Clouds Hillary, Edmund Doubleday, Garden City New York, 1964.
Moral Knowing in a Hindu Sacred City: An Exploration of Mind, Emotion, and Self Parish, Steven M. 31 Columbia University Press, New York, 1994.
The Splendour of Himalayan Art and Culture Jeratha, Asoka Indus, 1998.
RELIGION
The Way to Shambhala Bernbaum, Edwin Anchor Press, New York, 1980.
The Gods and Goddesses of Nepal Detmold, Geogrey Rubel, Mary Ratna Pustak Bhandar, Kathmandu, 1979.
4:1 client to lead guide ratio, plus 1:1 client to Sherpa guide ratio
Climbing permit and park fees
All oxygen equipment — bottles, mask and regulator
Domestic airfare to/from Kathmandu to Lukla
Four scheduled hotel nights in Kathmandu at the Yak-n-Yeti (double occupancy)
Scheduled restaurant meals in Kathmandu
All food and lodging during the trek and climb
All team climbing gear, tents and cooking gear
All expedition staff including Sherpa support, base camp personnel, porters and pack animals
Airport transfers
Phone and wireless internet available in base camp for additional fee
Price Does Not Include
International airfare
Nepal entry visa and airport fees
Personal climbing gear and clothing
Personal expenses (phone calls, laundry, room service, extra hotel nights, extra meals, tea house showers, etc.)
Travel insurance with trip cancellation, medical and evacuation policy
All expenses associated with non-scheduled departure
Lunch on Days 3, 67 & 68
Alcoholic and bottled beverages
Guide/Sherpa/Staff gratuities
Payment Schedule
$10,000 non-refundable deposit upon confirmation of your eligibility to join the expedition
$57,000 non-refundable balance due 120 days prior to departure
Payments can be made by check, wire transfer, ACH or credit card with a 3% convenience fee
Dates
Mount Everest 2021
Mar 28, 2021 — Jun 4, 2021
Mount Everest 2022
Mar 28, 2022 — Jun 4, 2022
Policies
Cancellation / Refund Policy
MMI strongly recommends trip cancellation/interruption and evacuation insurance for Mount Everest Expedition. Our insurance partner, Ripcord, offers comprehensive travel insurance including trip cancellation, as well as rescue/evacuation policies and can assist in answering any questions. In addition, Participant is expected to have sufficient medical insurance as prescribed by their country of origin. Participant understands that MMI does not include any type of insurance with the cost of the trip.
If you decide to cancel your trip or change your itinerary, MMI must be notified in writing. Your trip will be cancelled from the date written notice is received and all amounts paid will be forfeited.
No refunds on the deposit, nor balance payment will be provided for Mount Everest Expedition due to the great expense incurred planning/facilitating such an expedition.
Trip Insurance
We strongly recommend the purchase of travel cancellation insurance to protect you from the unexpected. You aren’t likely to think of it now, but people do get ill, break a bone, have a family emergency or get assigned to a last-minute business trip. If you are in remote areas, please note that emergency rescue & evacuation can be very expensive.
We also strongly urge you to consider rescue and evacuation insurance if your own policy does not provide the coverage needed. Services available may include, but are not limited to, helicopter evacuation, medical care, etc.
If you choose not to purchase insurance, you assume full responsibility for any expenses incurred in the event of a medical emergency and/or evacuation, as well as for trip cancellation, interruption, lost luggage, etc. We are not the experts and therefore ask that you please consult our travel insurance partner directly with any specific questions.
To protect against losses due to illness, accident, or other unforeseen circumstances, Mountain Madness strongly recommends the purchase of travel insurance as soon as possible after making a deposit. Mountain Madness has partnered with Redpoint Resolutions as our preferred travel insurance provider. Redpoint’s Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ is designed for adventurers.
For a quote, or to purchase travel insurance, please click this link Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ or call +1 – 415-481‑0600. Pricing varies based on age, trip cost, trip length, and level of coverage.
Critical benefits of Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance include:
A completely integrated program with a single point of contact for emergency services, travel assistance, and insurance claims
Evacuation and rescue services from your point of injury or illness to your hospital of choice
Comprehensive travel insurance for trip cancellation/interruption, primary medical expense coverage, baggage loss or delay, emergency accident and emergency sickness medical expense, emergency dental, accidental death and dismemberment, and more
Optional security evacuation coverage in case of an unplanned natural disaster or other security events
Waiver for pre-existing conditions (must be purchased within 14 days of tour deposit)
Optional “Cancel for Any Reason” coverage (must be purchased within 14 days of tour deposit)
Itinerary
Flight Information
The total number of days for your trip includes all travel to and from your destination, with some exceptions. Dates listed on the website start with your departure date from the US and include the day you arrive home.
For this trip you will need to arrive in Kathmandu, Nepal on Day 3 of the itinerary. You will cross the date line in mid-flight to Asia, thus losing a day. If you are traveling from outside the US. your itinerary may require less time to reach Kathmandu, so all that is required is that you arrive on Day 3 of the itinerary, where Mountain Madness services begin. If you arrive early, we can assist with extra hotel arrangements and activities. Otherwise, you can arrive at any time on Day 3. You will be met at the airport by a Mountain Madness representative and transferred to your hotel.
Please contact our office for any help needed with flight schedule.
Day by Day
Please contact our office for a complete Everest itinerary.
Equipment for Mount Everest Ascent
Carrying Gear
Small Pack (40L)
Lightweight as possible with a volume approximately 2,500 cubic inches (40 liters)
Examples:
Osprey Mutant 38, Black Diamond Speed 40
Large capacity climbing pack (65+L)
Lightweight as possible with a volume of 4,000+ cubic inches (65+ liters)
Examples:
Osprey Aether 70, Black Diamond Mission
2 Large duffel bags
Two at least 7,000 cubic inch capacity (150 liters). Must be durable and waterproof
Examples:
Patagonia Black Hole
Small duffel bag
Large enough to hold everything you’re not taking on the mountain. Will be stored at hotel, to be used after trip
Examples:
Patagonia Black Hole
Small padlock for duffel bags
Extra security
Baggage tags
Makes identifying your bags easy at airports or hotels
Sleeping Gear
Expedition quality sleeping bag (-20F down)
One down bag rated from -20°F / -30°C
Examples:
Feathered Friends Ptarmigan, Marmot Col
Expedition quality sleeping bag (-40F Down or Synthetic)
One down or synthetic bag rated from -40°F / -40°C
Examples:
Feathered Friends Snow Goose EX, Marmot Cwm
Sleeping Pad (insulated inflatable X 2)
Two full length inflatable
Examples:
Therm-a-Rest NeoAir XTherm
Sleeping pad (foam)
Closed cell foam 3/4 or full length. This pad is used in conjunction with the first pad
Examples:
Therm-a-rest Ridgerest
Climbing Gear
Alpine climbing harness
Must have adjustable leg loops and fit over all clothing
Examples:
Black Diamond Couloir, Petzl Altitude, Petzl Hirundos
Mountaineering ice axe
under 5’7” use 60cm, 5’7”-6’2” use 60 or 65cm, over 6’2” use 70cm
Examples:
Black Diamond Raven, Petzl Glacier
Crampons w/ anti-balling plate
Steel 12-pont. Must be fit to climbing boots prior to trip, new-matic/hybrid type
Examples:
Black Diamond Sabretooth, Petzl Vasak
Locking carabiners (3)
Three large, pear-shaped carabiners are best
Examples:
Black Diamond Rock Lock, Petzl William, Petzl Attache
Non-locking carabiners (8)
8 non-locking carabiners. wired straight-gates are recommended
Examples:
Black Diamond HotWire
Belay device (plaquette)
Tube style
Examples:
Black Diamond ATC Guide, Petzl Reverso
Ascenders (Pair)
One full set of ascenders with handles for fixed lines
Examples:
Petzl Ascension
Climbing helmet
Lightweight
Examples:
Black Diamond Half Dome, Petzl Elios
50’ of perlon accessory cord
Accessory cord, made of nylon, is useful for many purposes on an expedition. You should bring 50 feet of 6mm cord
Examples:
Sterling
Adjustable trekking poles
Three piece poles recommended
Examples:
Black Diamond Trail Back Pole
Head and Face
Fleece or wool hat
It must cover the ears
Shade hat or baseball cap
A visor hat with a good brim is essential for protection from the sun
Examples:
Mountain Madness trucker hat
Bandanas or neck gaiter
Various uses, i.e. cleaning glasses, sun protection when tied around the neck, etc. We have our own Mountain Madness neck gaiter available for purchase!
Examples:
Mountain Madness neck gaiter
Balaclava
A thin balaclava will add significant warmth on that cold summit day
Examples:
Outdoor Research, Marmot
Facemask
Neoprene or microfleece ski type
Nose guard
To protect you from the wind and sun
Examples:
Beko
Glacier glasses
100% UV protection with side shields and a hard-sided storage case
Examples:
Julbo
Ski goggles
To fit over glacier glasses in high wind. Rose or amber lenses
Examples:
Smith, Oakley
Hands
Leather work gloves
One pair lightweight to spare your climbing while doing camp chores
Liner gloves
Two pairs thin fleece or synthetic
Softshell gloves
One pair medium-weight for daily wear when it’s not too cold
Examples:
Black Diamond Arc, Arcteryx Zenta LT Glove
Expedition gloves
Insulated, water resistant shell with leather palms
Examples:
Black Diamond Guide
Expedition mitts
One pair Gore-Tex or equivalent, with textured palms and taped seams. Synthetic or down filled. Warm, heavy duty for cold temperatures
Examples:
Outdoor Research Altimitt
Feet
Thin socks (6 pair)
Six pairs of synthetic or wool socks to wear under heavy wool socks to help prevent blisters and keep feet dry
Examples:
Smartwool or Cool Max
Thick socks (6 pair)
Six pairs of synthetic or wool socks, medium to heavyweight. Check boot fit with thin and thick socks on
Examples:
Smartwool or Thorlo
Booties
Synthetic or down to keep feet warm while in tent
Camp boot
For warmth and comfort at base camp
Examples:
Sorrel Caribou, Uggs
High-altitude double mountaineering boots (8000m)
Insulated boots rated for 8,000-meter peak climbs with a warm removable liner and built in, insulated overboot
Examples:
La Sportiva Olympus Mons, Scarpa Phantom 8000
Light hiking boots or trail shoes
For acclimatization hikes
Examples:
Salomon X-Ultra 3 Mid, Merrell Moab, La Sportiva Boulder Ex
Upper Body
Synthetic t-shirts
Two synthetic or merino wool t-shirts. No cotton!
Long-sleeved Base Layer
Two lightweight to mediumweight, pull-over is best
Examples:
Patagonia Capilene
Sports bras
Two, synthetic, no cotton!
Light fleece hoodie
Light or medium-weight fleece (or wool) top with a hood. You will wear this over your light weight base layer
Examples:
Mountain Equipment Eclipse Half-Zip Hoodie
Down or synthetic jacket w/hood
This is your most important piece of warm gear and will mean the difference between an enjoyable climb or a miserable one. A warm, full zip jacket with hood is recommended and ideal
Examples:
Helly Hansen Vanir, Feathered Friends Volant, Marmot Guide’s Down Hoody, Outdoor Research Virtuoso Hoody
Softshell Jacket w/ hood
This is what you will be wearing while hiking at higher altitudes or while kicking around camps at lower altitude. This jacket should be full-zip
Examples:
Outdoor Research Ferrosi
Hardshell jacket w/ hood
A good jacket made of Gore-Tex (recommended) or waterproof nylon, roomy enough to fit over multiple layers
Examples:
Outdoor Research Foray, Patagonia Triolet
Expedition down parka w/ hood (Feathered Friends Rock and Ice Parka, Marmot 8000 Meter Parka)
This is your most important piece of warm gear and will mean the difference between an enjoyable climb or a miserable one. A warm, full zip jacket with hood is mandatory. It’s important that you jacket is 700+ fill down, baffle construction (not sewn through seams) and as a thick, insulated hood
Examples:
Feathered Friends Rock and Ice Parka, Marmot 8000 Meter Parka
Expedition down suit
You will be living in this above 7,500 meters!
Examples:
Feathered Friends Expedition Suit, Marmot 8000 Meter Suit
Sun hoody (optional)
This piece with a high SPF rating and lightweight fabric offers protection from high altitude sun
Examples:
Outdoor Research
Lower Body
Undergarments
Adequate supply for the entire climb
Long base layer
Two pairs light or mediumweight
Examples:
Patagonia Capilene
Softshell pants
Softshell pants are water resistant, yet highly breathable and durable. Great for colder conditions over a pair of long underwear or tights higher on the mountain or summit day
Examples:
Outdoor Research Voodoo, Mountain Hardwear Touren, Patagonia Guide
Hardshell pants
waterproof and breathable with side zips (minimum of ¾ zips recommended) Gore-Tex or equivalent
Examples:
Outdoor Research Furio, Arcteryx Beta AR
Insulated pants
Synthetic or down with full side zip. Warm insulation for upper mountain
Examples:
Mountain Hardwear Compressor
Miscellaneous
Stuff sacks/ditty bags/plastic bags
To organize gear in your duffle and pack. All clothing should be kept dry using waterproof stuff sacks or large heavyweight plastic bags (trash compactor bags work great)
Toiletries
Toothbrush and paste, comb, tampons, biodegradable soap (small amount), etc. Bring enough for the entire trip
Toilet paper
1 – 2 rolls stored in a plastic bag
Sunscreen
Bring plenty of sun block with SPF of 40 or more. It's easy to underestimate the amount necessary for your trip!
Lip balm
Must have SPF rating of 20 or more. Bring two just in case!
Ear plugs
To block out snoring and other noise to ensure a good night's sleep
Water bottles with insulators
Two one-liter wide-mouthed plastic bottles
Small stainless-steel thermos (optional)
For hot beverages on summit day
Water purification
Steri Pen, Potable Aqua, Polar Pure crystal iodine. Purifies drinking water while on the climb. this will only be necessary as a back-up.
Water flavoring
Powdered additives like Gatorade or NUUN tablets make treated water taste better
Large plastic bowl
Bring a 2-4 cup camping bowl or a plastic "Rubbermaid" style container for your mountain dining
Insulated cup (12-16oz)
A 12-16 oz (350-500 ml) mug with an attached lid will help keep you hydrated
Lexan spoon or spork
Lightweight and strong
Headlamp
Bring extra batteries!
Pocket knife or multitool
Simple Swiss Army type with scissors. Make sure you transport in checked bag, not carry-on!
Personal first aid and drug kit
See Health and Medical Information
Nausea medications
Pepto Bismol tablets; Maalox, Gelusil M or Mylanta antacid tablets. Donnatal for stomach cramps. Probiotic capsules taken daily may help keep your gastro-intestinal system working smoothly
Towel
For wash up in camp
Handi-Wipes
A small pack or two anti-bacterial are great for general hygiene
Spare contacts and glasses
Contacts can be a problem in dusty conditions, so make sure you have your back-up glasses with you. Glasses wearers should have a spare set
Snacks (general)
Bring your favorite snacks and power/energy bars or if there is something else you particularly like to eat while hiking and climbing
Spare bottle for a pee bottle, and a pee funnel (Lady J or Freshette) for women
It can be a cold walk to the toilet at night
Insect repellent
A must!
Personal electronics
Phone with camera, and/or separate camera. Bring extra batteries and memory!
Electronics charging
If you want to charge your electronics along the way, a small, lightweight solar panel to charge batteries or portable charging device may be a good addition
Travel power adapter
Most come in kits with all the plugs you need. Double-check to make sure you’re taking the correct adapter/plugs
Travel clothing
Comfortable clothing for travel before and after the expedition
4:1 client to lead guide ratio, plus 1:1 client to Sherpa guide ratio
Difficulty
Advanced
Climbers should be comfortable on 45 to 60 degree snow/ice slopes, waterfall ice climbing up to WI2-WI3, and/or moderate rock from 5.6-5.8. Participants will have a well-rounded history of climbing experience.
