Mount Baker Alpine Ice Climbing Course
Steep Ice, New Skills, And Cascades Classic Climb
The North Cascades hold the highest concentration of glaciation in the lower 48 states making it the absolute best venue for this type of training. Access to all types of ice terrain is unmatched – icefalls, seracs, alpine ice faces and huge, crevassed glaciers – it really is a unique and special range of mountains! The ice climbing instruction on this course takes place in the rugged glaciated terrain on one of the Cascade Range’s most impressive volcanoes – Mount Baker – and one of the best locations for climbing schools. This course is designed for climbers who are interested in developing their ability to climb on longer, more difficult snow and ice routes. This intensive training program culminates with an ascent of a technical route such as the North Ridge or Coleman Headwall on Mount Baker, or the Adams Glacier on Mount Adams. These are long, committing and classic alpine climbs.
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Course Perks
Looking down at your feet with only your front-points in the ice and thousands of feet of air below you. A wildly unique position to be in!
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Description
During the five nights camping and the six days in the field you’ll have four days of instruction with this course, which provides those looking to take it to the next level ample opportunity to hone skills and learn new ones. The final two days put your skills to the test on an alpine ice route, such as Mount Baker’s North Ridge, which provides steep, committing climb with tricky route finding on a long approach over a heavily crevassed glacier. Several ice pitches from 60 to 70 degrees provide the most spectacular climbing high on the route as the large ice cliff that splits the upper mountain is climbed. Other possible routes on Mount Baker or Mount Adams will offer similar difficulty.
This is an advanced-beginner level course. Similar and previous experience recommended but not required.
This course involves the following:
- Backpacking with loads of up to 50 lbs
- Backcountry camping and cooking skills
- Complicated glacier travel
- Sustained snow and ice climbing with two ice tools
- Long summit day of 10 – 13 hours
- Climbers should be in excellent physical condition and competent on alpine ice terrain
Course curriculum includes:
- Ice axe positioning and proper application of all axe positions for climbing moderate and steep snow and ice
- Snow and ice anchor placement, construction, and equalization
- Lead climbing techniques, intermediate protection, and multi-pitch ice climbing
- Selection and proper use of ropes, anchor equipment, and ice climbing tools
- Crampon usage and techniques: French, German, and American techniques
- Roped glacier travel, rope team management, route finding, and crevasse navigation
- Crevasse self rescue and team crevasse rescue scenarios
- Trip planning and navigation using a map, compass, and altimeter
- Hazard assessment including discussion of objective vs. subjective hazards, assessment
- Proper clothing and climbing gear for survival in the high mountains, mountain weather, alpine ecology, efficient and self-dependent climbing techniques, and Leave No Trace ethics
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Price
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Mount Baker Alpine Ice Climbing Course
$1,995 – 6 Days
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Price Includes
- Ground transportation
- Tents
- Group climbing equipment
- Guide services
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Price Does Not Include
- Airfare
- Transportation within Seattle
- Hotel accommodations
- Food in the mountains and restaurant meals
- All personal equipment
- Travel insurance with trip cancellation, medical and evacuation policy
- Guide gratuities
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Payment Schedule
- $400 deposit at time of registration, which includes a $200 non-refundable registration fee
- Balance due 90 days prior to departure
- The balance may be paid by check, wire transfer, ACH or credit card with a 3% convenience fee
Dates
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Mount Baker Alpine Ice Climbing Course 2026
- Jun 21, 2026 — Jun 26, 2026
- Jul 5, 2026 — Jul 10, 2026
- Jul 19, 2026 — Jul 24, 2026
- Aug 2, 2026 — Aug 7, 2026
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Mount Baker Alpine Ice Climbing Course 2027
- Jun 20, 2027 — Jun 25, 2027
- Jul 4, 2027 — Jul 9, 2027
- Jul 18, 2027 — Jul 23, 2027
- Aug 1, 2027 — Aug 6, 2027
Custom Dates Available — Contact Us
Policies
Cancellation / Refund Policy
- MMI strongly recommends trip cancellation/interruption and evacuation insurance for all trips. Our insurance partner, Ripcord, offers comprehensive travel insurance including trip cancellation, as well as rescue/evacuation policies and can assist in answering any questions. In addition, Participant is expected to have sufficient medical insurance as prescribed by their country of origin. Participant understands that MMI does not include any type of insurance with the cost of the trip.
- If you decide to cancel your trip or change your itinerary, MMI must be notified in writing. Your trip will be cancelled from the date written notice is received. If proper written cancellation notice is not received, amounts paid and reservations made will be forfeited.
- Non-refundable fees may apply for certain trips in order to secure permits and other services. MMI must strictly adhere to cancellation policies outside MMI’s control.
- Due to the personalized service we offer on our trips, MMI reserves the right to waive any fees. We will attempt to accommodate changes and cancellations, waiving certain fees when feasible.
- Circumstances outside the control of MMI and its partners, may require amended cancellation/refund policies. Such circumstances may include, but are not limited to COVID-19, natural disasters, wildfires, terrorism and so forth.
Domestic Trips/Courses:
- Full refund, less the non-refundable registration fee, will be provided 91 days or more before the departure date
- No refunds will be provided 90 days or less before the departure date
Trip Insurance
We strongly recommend the purchase of travel cancellation insurance to protect you from the unexpected. You aren’t likely to think of it now, but people do get ill, break a bone, have a family emergency or get assigned to a last-minute business trip. If you are in remote areas, please note that emergency rescue & evacuation can be very expensive.
We also strongly urge you to consider rescue and evacuation insurance if your own policy does not provide the coverage needed. Services available may include, but are not limited to, helicopter evacuation, medical care, etc.
If you choose not to purchase insurance, you assume full responsibility for any expenses incurred in the event of a medical emergency and/or evacuation, as well as for trip cancellation, interruption, lost luggage, etc. We are not the experts and therefore ask that you please consult our travel insurance partner directly with any specific questions.
To protect against losses due to illness, accident, or other unforeseen circumstances, Mountain Madness strongly recommends the purchase of travel insurance as soon as possible after making a deposit. Mountain Madness has partnered with Redpoint Resolutions as our preferred travel insurance provider. Redpoint’s Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ is designed for adventurers.
For a quote, or to purchase travel insurance, please click this link Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ or call +1 – 415-481‑0600. Pricing varies based on age, trip cost, trip length, and level of coverage.
Critical benefits of Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance include:
- A completely integrated program with a single point of contact for emergency services, travel assistance, and insurance claims
- Evacuation and rescue services from your point of injury or illness to your hospital of choice
- Comprehensive travel insurance for trip cancellation/interruption, primary medical expense coverage, baggage loss or delay, emergency accident and emergency sickness medical expense, emergency dental, accidental death and dismemberment, and more
- Optional security evacuation coverage in case of an unplanned natural disaster or other security events
- Waiver for pre-existing conditions (must be purchased within 14 days of tour deposit)
- Optional “Cancel for Any Reason” coverage (must be purchased within 14 days of tour deposit)
Itinerary
Flight Information
For scheduled courses and climbs, you should fly into Seattle-Tacoma International Airport (SeaTac). You are responsible for your transportation to downtown Seattle. You will meet as a group with your guide(s) early morning on Day 1 for an orientation meeting and equipment check.
Alpine Ice Climbing Course Day by Day
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Day 1
After a 7:00 am orientation we drive to the trailhead and prepare to climb to our base camp. The hike to base camp is very strenuous and can take 4 – 7 hours depending upon the particular approach and the fitness of the group. (This is where all of your training pays off!) Our hike takes us through many ecological zones and gives the group a chance to admire and photograph ancient forests and alpine meadows. We will then construct our base camp, and time permitting, review snow and ice climbing techniques, belaying skills, and discuss the fragile alpine environment, Leave No Trace skills, and equipment usage and selection.
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Day 2
Climbing in small groups, we expand on the first day’s review and begin to hone our steep snow and ice climbing techniques. Technical climbing in a stable ice fall with an instructor allows refinement of French, German and American crampon techniques. We also focus on single and double tool climbing styles. We begin to introduce protection systems for snow and ice and the application of these systems for steep, technical terrain.
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Day 3
Today is focused on further developing our protection systems for steep climbing as well as for glacier travel, focusing on assessment of various systems and managing different scenarios. We cover a broad spectrum of crevasse rescue techniques, construct and equalize multiple snow and ice anchors, and learn fundamental skills for crevasse pattern prediction and route finding skills. Additionally, students will learn to assess and manage objective and subjective hazards, evaluate safe climbing conditions, and discuss the role weather plays in this assessment.
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Day 4
Additional time is spent on rescue systems and scenarios for different methods of glacier travel. We will also learn techniques for placing intermediate protection as we focus on techniques for leading technical ice. Route finding skills will be discussed and practiced as we climb over low to steep angle alpine ice and make a series of rappels. Multi-pitch climbing, simul-climbing, and hanging belays will be addressed.
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Day 5
Today we move to a high camp where we make preparations for our summit climb. Climbing high on the mountain near the base of our route allows closer evaluation of conditions and gives us time to refine our glacier travel technique.
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Day 6
This day will involve challenging free climbing and route finding as we climb a technical route suited to the group’s abilities. We generally climb the Coleman Headwall, North Ridge, or Roman Mustache of Mt. Baker. Another venue is the Adams Glacier on Mt. Adams. Upon returning to camp we will grab a quick lunch, break camp, and begin the descent back to the trailhead. On the drive home we usually stop for a well-deserved hot meal and begin to make arrangements for continuing friendships and planning the next climbing adventure.
Note on Itinerary: Although we do our very best to follow the itinerary listed, it is subject to change due to weather, route conditions, and other reasons beyond our control. Once on the mountain, the ascent route is chosen by the guides based on conditions and group abilities. Different routes will be chosen when appropriate.
Equipment for Mount Baker Alpine Ice Climbing Course
This is a comprehensive gear list. Depending on conditions for your trip, your guide may decide that some items are not needed.
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Carrying Gear
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Large capacity climbing pack (65-75L)
approximately 4000-4500 cubic inch (65-75 liters) capacity, avoid unnecessary options that add weight
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Sleeping Gear
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Expedition quality sleeping bag (15-20F)
One down or synthetic bag rated from 15-20°F /-9 to -7°C
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Sleeping pad (inflatable or closed cell foam)
This can be an inflatable or closed cell foam pad. Make sure to purchase a pad rated for cold conditions.
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Climbing Gear
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Alpine climbing harness
Must have adjustable leg loops and fit over all clothing
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Locking carabiners (3)
Three large, pear-shaped carabiners are best
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Non-locking carabiners (2)
2 non-locking carabiners. wired straight-gates are recommended
Examples:
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Technical mountaineering ice tools (pair)
or single mountaineering ice axe and single technical tool
Examples:
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Spinner leash
ice tool harness attachment points
Examples:
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Crampons w/ anti-balling plate
Steel 12-pont. Must be fit to climbing boots prior to trip, new-matic/hybrid type
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Climbing helmet
Lightweight
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30’ of perlon accessory cord (6mm)
30 feet of 6mm cord
Examples:
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Belay device (plaquette)
Tube style
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Adjustable trekking poles
Three piece poles recommended
Examples:
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Petzl Micro Traxion
A compact and lightweight progress-capture pulley
Examples:
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Head and Face
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Fleece or wool hat
It must cover the ears
Examples:
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Shade hat or baseball cap
A visor hat with a good brim is essential for protection from the sun
Examples:
Mountain Madness trucker hat
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Glacier glasses
100% UV protection with side shields and a hard-sided storage case
Examples:
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Balaclava or neck gaiter (optional)
lightweight
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Hands
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Light weight work gloves
lightweight gloves with leather palm for rope work
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Mid-weight gloves
1-2 pairs
Examples:
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Heavyweight shell glove
Gore-tex or equivalent (trips before July)
Examples:
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Feet
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Liner socks (optional)
1-pair lightweight and thin
Examples:
polypropylene or wool
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Syntheric or wool socks
check boot fir to make sure they work together
Examples:
Smartwool, Patagonia
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Gaiters (optional)
Check fit with boots
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Insulated mountaineering boots (NW)
waterproof, insulated, crampon compatible, full shank boots. Many of these boots have Women specific equivalents (May –late June and Ice Climbs)
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Light trail shoes, camp booties, or sandals (optional)
Trail shoes for when at campgrounds and booties/sandals/Crocs for basecamps when weather and season allow
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Upper Body
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Synthetic t-shirts
2x Synthetic or merino wool t-shirts. No cotton!
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Sports bras
Two, synthetic, no cotton!
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Long-sleeved Base Layer
A non-cotton baselayer top. Wool or synthetic fabrics are required. Short or long sleeve acceptable, though we recommend long sleeve.
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Light weight synthetic jacket
light weight synthetic puffy or fleece
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Softshell Jacket w/ hood
This is what you will be wearing while hiking at higher altitudes or while kicking around camps at lower altitude. This jacket should be full-zip
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Hardshell jacket w/ hood
A good jacket made of Gore-Tex (recommended) or waterproof nylon, roomy enough to fit over multiple layers
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Down or synthetic jacket w/hood
This is your most important piece of warm gear and will mean the difference between an enjoyable climb or a miserable one. A warm, full zip jacket with hood is ideal.
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Sun hoodie
A long-sleeved base layer top made from non-cotton materials such as merino wool or polyester. Light-colored, hooded sun shirts are strongly recommended for sun protection and are commonly worn by guides on most climbs.
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Lower Body
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Long base layer
Non-cotton baselayer bottoms that should fit snugly without constriction. We recommend lighter weight baselayers rather than heavier fleece-type layers.
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Nylon shorts (optional)
Quick-drying type for July-Sept trips
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Softshell pants
Softshell pants are water resistant, yet highly breathable and durable. Great for colder conditions over a pair of long underwear or tights higher on the mountain or summit day
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Hardshell pants
waterproof and breathable with side zips (minimum of ¾ zips recommended) Gore-Tex or equivalent
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Miscellaneous
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Bear Bag/Bear Canister
Bear bag or bear canister to protect your food from both bears and smaller critters
Examples:
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Personal first aid kit (NW)
moleskin/blister kit, Band-aids, athletic tape, ibuprofen, personal medications, ect
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Lip balm
Must have SPF rating of 20 or more. Bring two just in case!
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Sunscreen
Bring plenty of sun block with SPF of 40 or more. It's easy to underestimate the amount necessary for your trip!
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Hand sanitizer
enough to last trip length
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Insect repellent
A must!
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Headlamp
Bring extra batteries!
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Water bottles
two 1 liter wide-mouth water bottles
Examples:
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Hydration bladder (optional)
hydration bladder or water bag with drinking tube (must also have 1 Nalgene Bottle or equivalent)
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Water purification (NW)
Purifies drinking water while on the climb
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Large plastic bowl
Bring a 2-4 cup camping bowl or a plastic "Rubbermaid" style container for your mountain dining
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Insulated cup (12-16oz)
A 12-16 oz (350-500 ml) mug with an attached lid will help keep you hydrated
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Lexan spoon or spork
Lightweight and strong
Examples:
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Pocket knife or multitool
Simple Swiss Army type with scissors. Make sure you transport in checked bag, not carry-on!
Examples:
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Toiletry kit (NW)
toilet paper stored in double zip lock bags
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Nylon stuff sacks
for food and gear storage, large ziplocs are useful
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Large plastic bags
heavy duty trash compactor bags recommended
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Bandana (optional)
lightweight
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Snacks (general)
Bring your favorite snacks and power/energy bars or if there is something else you particularly like to eat while hiking and climbing
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Camera (optional)
or any sort of device that takes pictures
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Soap, shampoo, towel (optional)
for use at campground showers when on itinerary
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Travel clothing
Comfortable clothing for travel before and after the expedition
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Cooking Gear (Overnight Courses Only)
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Fuel bottles
If you are flying, Mountain Madness can supply liquid fuel and bottles or fuel canisters when stock is available. We ask that local clients come with their own kit
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Backpacking stove
Complete stove and repair kit. Make sure fuel pump is included for liquid full stoves
Examples:
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Pot grips
You’ll need these to handle your pot when it’s full of boiling water!
Examples:
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Bowl
Plastic with 2-3 cup capacity; Tupperware works well
Examples:
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Cooking pot
1.5 liter/qts minimum, lightweight pot with tight fitting lid and handle. Aluminum or titanium are much lighter than stainless steelExamples:
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Spoon
Good quality plastic (i.e. Lexan)
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Mug
Insulated plastic with lid
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Book Course
Mount Baker Alpine Ice Climbing Course
$1,995
6 Days
Route
Mount Baker: North Ridge, Coleman Headwall, or Roman Mustache
Mount Adams: Adams Glacier
Elevation
Mount Baker - 10,781 ft / 3286 m
Mount Adams — 12,276 ft / 3742 m
Client to Guide Ratio
4:1; 2:1 for the final ascent
Difficulty
Intermediate
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