Alpamayo and Quitaraju
Technical Climbs on Peru’s Most Beautiful Peaks
Get your game on for some of the Cordillera’s finest technical routes. Classic ice routes, technical rock climbs and mixed routes are plentiful in the amazing Cordillera Blanca. Alpamayo stands out amongst the finest in the range and offer strong intermediate level climbers a technical ice route not to be missed! And if this spectacular climb weren’t enough, from our Alpamayo high camp we’ll also attempt the north face of Quitaraju, with it’s more than 2,000 feet / 610 meters of near perfect snow and ice conditions. Join Mountain Madness as we climb two of the Cordillera Blanca’s most sought-after peaks set among one of the most beautiful alpine sites in the world.
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Trip Perks
Burning calf muscles as you frontpoint your way up the incredible ice routes on the peak- that’s a painful, though rewarding satisfaction experienced only by alpinists. And since Alpamayo is considered by many to be the world’s most beautiful mountain, an ascent of Alpamayo is an achievement valued and recognized by mountaineers the world over.
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Description
We offer two ways to climb the mountain. 1) as an extension to our Chopikalki trip, which allows for acclimatization before Alpamayo, or 2) as a separate itinerary listed below. Both options work well, but option 1 keeps the cost lower.
Once on the mountain, depending on the conditions, you’ll ascend the “Ferrari Route” up the steep, fluted southwest face of the mountain. From a scenic high camp, we’ll cross a small glacier, surpass a tricky bergschrund, and climb eight pitches of snow and ice, gradually steepening to nearly 80 degrees. The last 400 feet offers beautiful blue water ice and ends at a knife-edged summit ridge. And if this spectacular climb weren’t enough, from our Alpamayo high camp we’ll also attempt the north face of Quitaraju, with it’s more than 2,000 feet / 610 meters of near perfect snow and ice conditions.
The Cordillera Blanca contains more than 300 major summits — more than 20 of these rise over 19,000 feet / 6000 meters. Climbers joining Mountain Madness in Peru will find incredible climbing and easy access. Steep, fantastically fluted ice faces, such as the Southwest Face of Piramide, wildly corniced ridges like the French Ridge on Huascaran Norte, and huge ice walls like the Northeast Face of Huandoy Norte are the norm and validate the comparisons of these peaks with the grandeur of the Himalayan peaks. Alpamayo and Quitaraju are no exceptions.
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Qualifications
For this expedition, we require that you have proven high altitude experience, technical proficiency, and the physical fitness to handle the rigors of the ascent.You should be familiar with extreme cold, tent living, exposure to steep terrain, and more. Members should be able to ascend and descend independently and be proficient with cramponing on steep ice/snow slopes and the use of two ice tools.
An example of sufficient training & experience would include a combination of the following:
- Technical training in the Washington Cascades
- Alpine Ice Climbing ascents
- Experience at altitude such as peaks in Ecuador, Bolivia or Mexico
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Dates & Pricing
Custom pricing / Call for details
Payment Schedule
- $700 deposit at time of registration
- Balance due 90 days prior to departure
- The balance can be paid by check, wire transfer, ACH or credit card with a 3% convenience fee.
Price Includes
- Guide(s) and staff
- Park fees
- One scheduled hotel night in Lima (double occupancy)
- Three scheduled hotel nights in Huaraz (double occupancy)
- Scheduled restaurant meals
- All food while on the climb
- All group climbing gear, tents and cooking gear
- All expedition staff including porters and pack animals
- Ground transportation and airport transfers
Price Does Not Include
- International airfare
- Personal equipment and clothing
- Personal expenses (phone calls, laundry, room service, extra hotel nights, extra meals, etc.)
- Personal porter
- Day 1 meals
- Lunch Day 2 and 17
- Alcoholic and bottled beverages
- Travel insurance with trip cancellation, medical and evacuation policy
- All expenses associated with non-scheduled departure
- Guide/Staff gratuities
Have a Question? Contact Us!
Price
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Alpamayo and Quitaraju
$0 – 18 Days / Includes travel time
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Price Includes
- Guide(s) and staff
- Park fees
- One scheduled hotel night in Lima (double occupancy)
- Three scheduled hotel nights in Huaraz (double occupancy)
- Scheduled restaurant meals
- All food while on the climb
- All group climbing gear, tents and cooking gear
- All expedition staff including porters and pack animals
- Ground transportation and airport transfers
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Price Does Not Include
- International airfare
- Personal equipment and clothing
- Personal expenses (phone calls, laundry, room service, extra hotel nights, extra meals, etc.)
- Personal porter
- Day 1 meals
- Lunch Day 2 and 17
- Alcoholic and bottled beverages
- Travel insurance with trip cancellation, medical and evacuation policy
- All expenses associated with non-scheduled departure
- Guide/Staff gratuities
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Payment Schedule
- $700 deposit at time of registration, which includes a $300 non-refundable registration fee
- Balance due 120 days prior to departure
- The balance may be paid by check, wire transfer, ACH or credit card with a 3% convenience fee
Dates
Climb is Arranged on a Custom Basis — Contact Us
Policies
Cancellation / Refund Policy
- MMI strongly recommends trip cancellation/interruption and evacuation insurance for all trips. Our insurance partner, Ripcord, offers comprehensive travel insurance including trip cancellation, as well as rescue/evacuation policies and can assist in answering any questions. In addition, Participant is expected to have sufficient medical insurance as prescribed by their country of origin. Participant understands that MMI does not include any type of insurance with the cost of the trip.
- If you decide to cancel your trip or change your itinerary, MMI must be notified in writing. Your trip will be cancelled from the date written notice is received. If proper written cancellation notice is not received, amounts paid and reservations made will be forfeited.
- Non-refundable fees may apply for certain trips in order to secure permits and other services. MMI must strictly adhere to cancellation policies outside MMI’s control.
- Due to the personalized service we offer on our trips, MMI reserves the right to waive any fees. We will attempt to accommodate changes and cancellations, waiving certain fees when feasible.
- Circumstances outside the control of MMI and its partners, may require amended cancellation/refund policies. Such circumstances may include, but are not limited to COVID-19, natural disasters, wildfires, terrorism and so forth.
International Trips/Courses:
- Full refund, less the non-refundable registration fee, will be provided 121 days or more before the departure date
- No refunds will be provided 120 days or less before the departure date
Trip Insurance
We strongly recommend the purchase of travel cancellation insurance to protect you from the unexpected. You aren’t likely to think of it now, but people do get ill, break a bone, have a family emergency or get assigned to a last-minute business trip. If you are in remote areas, please note that emergency rescue & evacuation can be very expensive.
We also strongly urge you to consider rescue and evacuation insurance if your own policy does not provide the coverage needed. Services available may include, but are not limited to, helicopter evacuation, medical care, etc.
If you choose not to purchase insurance, you assume full responsibility for any expenses incurred in the event of a medical emergency and/or evacuation, as well as for trip cancellation, interruption, lost luggage, etc. We are not the experts and therefore ask that you please consult our travel insurance partner directly with any specific questions.
To protect against losses due to illness, accident, or other unforeseen circumstances, Mountain Madness strongly recommends the purchase of travel insurance as soon as possible after making a deposit. Mountain Madness has partnered with Redpoint Resolutions as our preferred travel insurance provider. Redpoint’s Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ is designed for adventurers.
For a quote, or to purchase travel insurance, please click this link Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ or call +1 – 415-481‑0600. Pricing varies based on age, trip cost, trip length, and level of coverage.
Critical benefits of Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance include:
- A completely integrated program with a single point of contact for emergency services, travel assistance, and insurance claims
- Evacuation and rescue services from your point of injury or illness to your hospital of choice
- Comprehensive travel insurance for trip cancellation/interruption, primary medical expense coverage, baggage loss or delay, emergency accident and emergency sickness medical expense, emergency dental, accidental death and dismemberment, and more
- Optional security evacuation coverage in case of an unplanned natural disaster or other security events
- Waiver for pre-existing conditions (must be purchased within 14 days of tour deposit)
- Optional “Cancel for Any Reason” coverage (must be purchased within 14 days of tour deposit)
Itinerary
Flight Information
The total number of days for your trip includes all travel to and from your destination, with some exceptions. Dates listed on the website start with a departure date from the U.S. and include the day you arrive home. For this trip you will need to arrive in Lima, Peru on Day 1. You will be met at the airport by a Mountain Madness representative and transferred to your hotel.
Alpamayo and Quitaraju Day by Day
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Day 1
Lima
Fly to Lima. Arrive in the late evening.
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Day 2
Huaraz
Elevation: 10,013 ft / 3052 m
From Lima we travel the Pacific Coast Highway northward to Pativilca and then inland up the exciting Rio Fortaleza road to the high pass near Conococha. Our descent into the upper part of the Rio Santa leads to the town of Huaraz. On arrival we check into our hotel.
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Day 3
Huaraz
Elevation: 10,013 ft / 3052 m
Rest day in Huaraz. Visit the local markets. Organize our gear.
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Day 4
Llanganuco Valley
Elevation: 11,580 ft / 3530 m
Leaving early, we drive to the valley of Llanganuco where we begin the Santa Cruz trek.
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Day 5
Laguna Llanganuco
Elevation: 12,303 ft / 3750 m
Hike to Laguna 69 beneath the beautiful Chacraraju. Overnight near Laguna Llanganuco.
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Day 6
Paria Camp
Elevation: 12,795 ft / 3900 m
Hike to Quebrada Paria.
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Day 7
Base Camp
Elevation: 14,270 ft / 4350 m
Hike over Punta Union pass. Finish our trek into base camp. Alpamayo’s base camp is located at 14,270 feet / 4350 meters. and situated amongst the Arhuaycocha valley’s highest trees. Here we are surrounded by several impressive peaks including Alpamayo, Quitaraju, Pucahirca and Artesonraju.
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Day 8
Moraine Camp
Elevation: 15,560 ft / 4743 m
Carry food and equipment higher on the mountain to the edge of the glacier at about 15,560 feet / 4743 meters, Moraine Camp.
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Day 9
High Camp
Elevation: 17,000 ft / 5182 m
Move to high camp at col between Alpamayo and Quitaraju.
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Day 10
High Camp
Elevation: 17,000 ft / 5182 m
Rest day
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Day 11
High Camp
Elevation: 17,000 ft / 5182 m
Alpamayo Summit Climb. An alpine start is appropriate here. We leave at sunrise and arrive at the bergschrund early in the morning. We begin climbing 55 – 70 degree ice and snow and after about 7 pitches we arrive at the summit usually about 9 – 10 am. We are back at our high camp between 1 and 4 pm.
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Day 12
High Camp
Elevation: 17,000 ft / 5182 m
This day at high camp serves as an additional summit day if needed or if more acclimatization is required. May also be a rest day.
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Day 13-14
High Camp
Elevation: 17,000 ft / 5182 m
Extra day to climb Quitaraju or if needed for another summit day attempt.
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Day 15
Base Camp
Elevation: 14,270 ft / 4350 m
Descend to base camp.
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Day 16
Huaraz
Elevation: 10,013 ft / 3052 m
We make an early morning departure on our hike out. Again, with our heavy gear on burros we are able to enjoy the trek back to Cashapampa carrying only daypacks. Normally we arrive out at the road in early afternoon and head back to Huaraz for a hot shower and a celebratory dinner.
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Day 17-18
Fly Home
Depart for Lima. Catch a late evening flight home. You will most likely arrive home on day 18 of the trip.
Note on Itinerary: As conditions on Alpamayo are variable from season to season, there is a chance that our scheduled route may be in an unfavorable state. Your trip leader will evaluate conditions and if unsatisfactory we will climb one of many other outstanding peaks in the Cordillera Blanca. As always, the itinerary is subject to change due to inclement weather, unsafe route conditions, or other reasons beyond our control and in the guide’s best judgement.
Equipment for Alpamayo and Quitaraju
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Carrying Gear
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Summit pack (40-50L)
Lightweight as possible with a volume between 2,500-3,500 cubic inches (40-50 liters) serves most people’s needs well
Examples:
Osprey Mutant 38, Black Diamond Speed 40
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Large capacity climbing pack (70-85L)
Lightweight as possible with a volume of 4,000 – 5,000 cubic inches (70 - 85 liters)
Examples:
Osprey Aether 70
Osprey Aether 85
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Large duffel bag (150L)
One at least 7,000 cubic inch capacity (150 liters). Must be durable and waterproof
Examples:
Patagonia Black Hole
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Small duffel bag
Large enough to hold everything you’re not taking on the mountain. Will be stored at hotel, to be used after trip
Examples:
Patagonia Black Hole
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Small padlock for duffel bags
Extra security
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Baggage tags
Makes identifying your bags easy at airports or hotels
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Sleeping Gear
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Expedition quality sleeping bag (15-20F)
One down or synthetic bag rated from 15-20°F /-9 to -7°C
Examples:
Marmot Helium, Marmot Trestles, Western Mountaineering Apache, North Face Guide 20
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Sleeping pad (inflatable or closed cell foam)
A foam pad will be provided but a supplemental pad is recommended. This can be an inflatable or closed cell foam pad. Make sure to purchase a pad rated for cold conditions.
Examples:
Therm-a-Rest NeoAir & Therm-a-Rest Z Lite Sol
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Climbing Gear
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Alpine climbing harness
Must have adjustable leg loops and fit over all clothing
Examples:
Black Diamond Couloir, Petzl Altitude, Petzl Hirundos
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Locking carabiners (2)
Two large, pear-shaped carabiners are best
Examples:
Black Diamond Rock Lock, Petzl William, Petzl Attache
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Non-locking carabiners (4)
4 non-locking carabiners. wired straight-gates are recommended
Examples:
Black Diamond HotWire
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Belay device (plaquette)
Tube style
Examples:
Black Diamond ATC Guide, Petzl Reverso
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Mountaineering ice axe
under 5’7” use 60cm, 5’7”-6’2” use 60 or 65cm, over 6’2” use 70cm
Examples:
Black Diamond Raven, Petzl Glacier
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Hybrid ice tool
lightweight
Examples:
Petzl Gully
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Crampons w/ anti-balling plate
Steel 12-pont. Must be fit to climbing boots prior to trip, new-matic/hybrid type
Examples:
Black Diamond Sabretooth, Petzl Vasak
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Climbing helmet
Lightweight
Examples:
Black Diamond Half Dome, Petzl Elios
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Double length nylon runner (48" or 120cm)
be sure to get nylon not dyneema (18mm width)
Examples:
Black Diamond Nylon Slings
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Single length runner (24" or 60cm)
be sure to get nylon not dyneema (18mm width)
Examples:
Black Diamond Nylon Slings
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30’ of perlon accessory cord (6mm)
30 feet of 6mm cord
Examples:
Sterling
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Adjustable trekking poles
Three piece poles recommended
Examples:
Black Diamond Trail Back Pole
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Head and Face
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Fleece or wool hat
It must cover the ears
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Shade hat or baseball cap
A visor hat with a good brim is essential for protection from the sun
Examples:
Mountain Madness trucker hat
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Bandanas or neck gaiter
Various uses, i.e. cleaning glasses, sun protection when tied around the neck, etc. We have our own Mountain Madness neck gaiter available for purchase!
Examples:
Mountain Madness neck gaiter
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Balaclava or Buff
A thin balaclava will add significant warmth on that cold summit day
Examples:
Outdoor Research, Marmot
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Glacier glasses
100% UV protection with side shields and a hard-sided storage case
Examples:
Julbo
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Ski goggles
To fit over glacier glasses in high wind. Rose or amber lenses
Examples:
Smith, Oakley
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Hands
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Liner gloves
Two pairs thin fleece or synthetic
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Warm gloves
One pair fleece or wool with water resistant shell
Examples:
Outdoor Research Arete
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Expedition mitts
One pair Gore-Tex or equivalent, with textured palms and taped seams. Synthetic or down filled. Warm, heavy duty for cold temperatures
Examples:
Outdoor Research Altimitt
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Feet
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Thin socks (2 pair)
Two pairs of synthetic or wool socks to wear under heavy wool socks to help prevent blisters and keep feet dry
Examples:
Smartwool or Cool Max
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Thick socks (3 pair)
Three pairs of synthetic or wool socks, medium to heavyweight. Check boot fit with thin and thick socks on
Examples:
Smartwool or Thorlo
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Gaiters
One pair of gaiters made of breathable material; keeps dirt and snow out of boots. Make sure they fit over your boots
Examples:
Outdoor Research Verglas or Crocodiles
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Plastic mountaineering boots
Depending on your future mountaineering endeavors, a boot such as the La Sportiva Spantik is a good investment for those who are pursuing other high-altitude climbs (such as Aconcagua or Denali), whereas the Koflach Degre would be the choice for those looking for a warm boot in moderate conditions. If you are looking at hybrid leather/plastic boots, make sure it is rated for 6,000-meter peak climbs or winter mountaineering
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Light hiking boots or trail shoes
For acclimatization hikes
Examples:
Salomon X-Ultra 3 Mid, Merrell Moab, La Sportiva Boulder Ex
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Upper Body
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Synthetic t-shirts
Two synthetic or merino wool t-shirts. No cotton!
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Long-sleeved Base Layer
Two lightweight to mediumweight, pull-over is best
Examples:
Patagonia Capilene
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Sports bras
Two, synthetic, no cotton!
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Softshell Jacket w/ hood
This is what you will be wearing while hiking at higher altitudes or while kicking around camps at lower altitude. This jacket should be full-zip
Examples:
Outdoor Research Ferrosi
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Hardshell jacket w/ hood
A good jacket made of Gore-Tex (recommended) or waterproof nylon, roomy enough to fit over multiple layers
Examples:
Outdoor Research Foray, Patagonia Triolet
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Down or synthetic jacket w/hood
This is your most important piece of warm gear and will mean the difference between an enjoyable climb or a miserable one. A warm, full zip jacket with hood is ideal.
Examples:
Helly Hansen Vanir, Feathered Friends Volant, Marmot Guide’s Down Hoody, Outdoor Research Virtuoso Hoody
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Sun hoody
This piece with a high SPF rating and lightweight fabric offers protection from high altitude sun
Examples:
Outdoor Research
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Lower Body
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Undergarments
Adequate supply for the entire trip
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Bathing suit (optional)
lightweight and packable
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Hiking shorts
One pair of quick-drying shorts. Good for hiking at lower elevations on the mountain
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Long base layer
Two pairs light or mediumweight
Examples:
Patagonia Capilene
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Softshell pants
Softshell pants are water resistant, yet highly breathable and durable. Great for colder conditions over a pair of long underwear or tights higher on the mountain or summit day
Examples:
Outdoor Research Voodoo, Mountain Hardwear Touren, Patagonia Guide
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Hardshell pants
waterproof and breathable with side zips (minimum of ¾ zips recommended) Gore-Tex or equivalent
Examples:
Outdoor Research Furio, Arcteryx Beta AR
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Miscellaneous
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Stuff sacks/ditty bags/plastic bags
To organize gear in your duffle and pack. All clothing should be kept dry using waterproof stuff sacks or large heavyweight plastic bags (trash compactor bags work great)
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Toiletries
Toothbrush and paste, comb, tampons, biodegradable soap (small amount), etc. Bring enough for the entire trip
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Toilet paper
1 – 2 rolls stored in a plastic bag
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Sunscreen
Bring plenty of sun block with SPF of 40 or more. It's easy to underestimate the amount necessary for your trip!
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Lip balm
Must have SPF rating of 20 or more. Bring two just in case!
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Ear plugs
To block out snoring and other noise to ensure a good night's sleep
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Water bottles with insulators
Two one-liter wide-mouthed plastic bottles
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Small stainless-steel thermos (optional)
For hot beverages on summit day
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Water purification
Steri Pen, Potable Aqua, Polar Pure crystal iodine. Purifies drinking water while on the trip.
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Water flavoring
Powdered additives like Gatorade or NUUN are a nice change of pace to water and help replenish much needed electrolytes.
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Headlamp
Bring extra batteries!
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Pocket knife or multitool
Simple Swiss Army type with scissors. Make sure you transport in checked bag, not carry-on!
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Personal first aid and drug kit
small personal first aid kit with ample bandaids and moleskin
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Nausea medications
Pepto Bismol tablets; Maalox, Gelusil M or Mylanta antacid tablets. Donnatal for stomach cramps. Probiotic capsules taken daily may help keep your gastro-intestinal system working smoothly
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Towel
For wash up in camp
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Handi-Wipes
A small pack or two anti-bacterial are great for general hygiene
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Spare contacts and glasses
Contacts can be a problem in dusty conditions, so make sure you have your back-up glasses with you. Glasses wearers should have a spare set
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Snacks (general)
Bring your favorite snacks and power/energy bars or if there is something else you particularly like to eat while hiking and climbing
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Spare bottle for a pee bottle, and a pee funnel (Lady J or Freshette) for women
It can be a cold walk to the toilet at night
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Insect repellent
A must!
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Personal electronics
Phone with camera, and/or separate camera. Bring extra batteries and memory!
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Electronics charging
If you want to charge your electronics along the way, a small, lightweight solar panel to charge batteries or portable charging device may be a good addition
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Travel power adapter
Most come in kits with all the plugs you need. Double-check to make sure you’re taking the correct adapter/plugs
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Travel clothing
Comfortable clothing for travel before and after the expedition
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Book Trip
Alpamayo and Quitaraju
$0
18 Days / Includes travel time
Elevation
Alpamayo 19,511 ft / 5947 m
Quitaraju 19,816 / 6040 m
Route
Depends on conditions
Difficulty
Advanced Intermediate
Climbers should be comfortable climbing on exposed ridges, 45 to 60 degree snow/ice slopes and/or 5.6+ rock and have a well-rounded past history of climbing experience. Depending on the objective, climbers may need only snow/ice skills or only rock skills; and vice-versa. Some climbs may require both skill sets.
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