Cho Oyu
Stepping Stone to Everest
Cho Oyu is the 6th highest peak in the world (26,906 ft / 8201 m) and is part of the Greater Himalaya, where the central Asia plateau meets the Indian subcontinent. Located on the Tibet/Nepal border, you will have a chance to experience the local Tibetan culture. This is considered the best introductory peak for those aspiring to 8000-meter climbs such as Everest.
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Trip Perks
You’re one step closer to being ready for Everest. And hanging out in Lhasa and taking in some Tibetan culture adds some great intrigue to an already amazing adventure. Pizza and beer back in Kathmandu at the Fire & Ice is nice way to wrap it all up before heading home.
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Description
Our Cho Oyu expedition will fly to the ancient capital city of Tibet, Lhasa, once home to the 14th Dalai Lama who fled to India in 1959 due to the Chinese Invasion. While acclimatizing, our group will tour many of the Tibetan Buddhist monasteries and palaces as we journey to Cho Oyu base camp. We will take an alternative overland route back to Kathmandu via Zhangmu.
First summited in 1954 by a small Austrian/Tibetan expedition, Cho Oyu is technically easier than most other “8000’ers,” making it a great first 8000-meter peak for climbers with previous high altitude climbing experience. We will climb Cho Oyu via the West Ridge/West Face, which has two short technical sections. Advanced Base Camp (ABC) will be established at 5800 meters / 19,029 feet, Camp I at 6500 meters / 21,325 feet, Camp II at 7100 meters / 23,294 feet, and Camp III at 7400 meters / 24,278 feet.
The expedition will start in Kathmandu, Nepal. We will meet at our Nepal office to get our paperwork together, organize our gear, and enjoy the local customs & culture of Kathmandu before flying to Lhasa. We take a spectacular route from Lhasa to the village of Tingri, our final rugged and rural village before Cho Oyu base camp. We spend two nights at base camp before we hire yaks to transport our expedition supplies to ABC. On this two day journey we will cross rivers, and hike over rocky moraine before we arrive at ABC, “our base camp” for 4 weeks.
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Qualifications
Any 8,000 meter peak requires a climbing resume featuring ascents at high altitude as well as expedition experience. For this expedition, we require that you have proven high altitude experience, technical proficiency, and the physical fitness to handle the rigors of the ascent. You should be familiar with extreme cold, extended hypoxic conditions, tent living, exposure to steep terrain, and more. Members should be able to ascend and descend fixed lines independently and be proficient with cramponing on steep ice/snow slopes.
An example of sufficient training & experience would include a combination of the following:
- Technical training in the Washington Cascades
- Ascents of 6,000 meter peaks in South America or Asia
- Denali and/or a 7000 – 8000 meter peak such as Pik Lenin or Nun Peak.
Have a Question? Contact Us!
Price
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Cho Oyu
$27,500 – 46 Days / Includes travel time
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Single Supplement (I want my own room) – $625
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Price Includes
- 4:1 client to guide ratio, plus 2:1 client to Sherpa guide ratio
- Climbing permit and China visa fee
- All oxygen equipment — bottles, mask and regulator
- Domestic airfare to/from Kathmandu to Lukla
- Five scheduled hotel nights in Kathmandu at the Yak-n-Yeti
- Scheduled restaurant meals in Kathmandu
- All food and lodging during the trek and climb
- All team climbing gear, tents and cooking gear
- All expedition staff including Sherpa support, base camp personnel, porters and pack animals
- Airport transfers
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Price does not Include
- International airfare
- Nepal entry visa and airport fees
- Personal climbing gear and clothing
- Personal expenses (phone calls, laundry, room service, extra hotel nights, extra meals, base camp showers, etc.)
- Travel insurance with trip cancellation, medical and evacuation policy
- All expenses associated with non-scheduled departure
- Meals, Days 3, 43
- Breakfast, Day 44
- Lunch, Days 4, 5, 44
- Dinner, Day 4
- Alcoholic and bottled beverages
- Guide/Sherpa/Staff gratuities
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Payment Schedule
- $5,000 deposit upon confirmation of your eligibility to join the expedition, which includes a $3,500 non-refundable registration fee
- Balance due 120 days prior to departure
- The balance may be paid by check, wire transfer, ACH or credit card with a 3% convenience fee
Dates
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Cho Oyu 2023
- Aug 21, 2023 — Oct 4, 2023
Custom Dates Available — Contact Us
Policies
Cancellation / Refund Policy
- MMI strongly recommends trip cancellation/interruption and evacuation insurance for all trips. Our insurance partner, Ripcord, offers comprehensive travel insurance including trip cancellation, as well as rescue/evacuation policies and can assist in answering any questions. In addition, Participant is expected to have sufficient medical insurance as prescribed by their country of origin. Participant understands that MMI does not include any type of insurance with the cost of the trip.
- If you decide to cancel your trip or change your itinerary, MMI must be notified in writing. Your trip will be cancelled from the date written notice is received. If proper written cancellation notice is not received, amounts paid and reservations made will be forfeited.
- Non-refundable fees may apply for certain trips in order to secure permits and other services. MMI must strictly adhere to cancellation policies outside MMI’s control.
- Due to the personalized service we offer on our trips, MMI reserves the right to waive any fees. We will attempt to accommodate changes and cancellations, waiving certain fees when feasible.
- Circumstances outside the control of MMI and its partners, may require amended cancellation/refund policies. Such circumstances may include, but are not limited to COVID-19, natural disasters, terrorism and so forth.
Trips with Special Consideration (Carstensz, Cho Oyu, Denali, Logan and Vinson):
- Full refund, less the non-refundable deposit/registration fee, will be provided 121 days or more before the departure date
- No refunds will be provided 120 days or less before the departure date
Trip Insurance
We strongly recommend the purchase of travel cancellation insurance to protect you from the unexpected. You aren’t likely to think of it now, but people do get ill, break a bone, have a family emergency or get assigned to a last-minute business trip. If you are in remote areas, please note that emergency rescue & evacuation can be very expensive.
We also strongly urge you to consider rescue and evacuation insurance if your own policy does not provide the coverage needed. Services available may include, but are not limited to, helicopter evacuation, medical care, etc.
If you choose not to purchase insurance, you assume full responsibility for any expenses incurred in the event of a medical emergency and/or evacuation, as well as for trip cancellation, interruption, lost luggage, etc. We are not the experts and therefore ask that you please consult our travel insurance partner directly with any specific questions.
To protect against losses due to illness, accident, or other unforeseen circumstances, Mountain Madness strongly recommends the purchase of travel insurance as soon as possible after making a deposit. Mountain Madness has partnered with Redpoint Resolutions as our preferred travel insurance provider. Redpoint’s Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ is designed for adventurers.
For a quote, or to purchase travel insurance, please click this link Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ or call +1 – 415-481‑0600. Pricing varies based on age, trip cost, trip length, and level of coverage.
Critical benefits of Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance include:
- A completely integrated program with a single point of contact for emergency services, travel assistance, and insurance claims
- Evacuation and rescue services from your point of injury or illness to your hospital of choice
- Comprehensive travel insurance for trip cancellation/interruption, primary medical expense coverage, baggage loss or delay, emergency accident and emergency sickness medical expense, emergency dental, accidental death and dismemberment, and more
- Optional security evacuation coverage in case of an unplanned natural disaster or other security events
- Waiver for pre-existing conditions (must be purchased within 14 days of tour deposit)
- Optional “Cancel for Any Reason” coverage (must be purchased within 14 days of tour deposit)
Itinerary
Flight Information
The total number of days for your trip includes all travel to and from your destination, with some exceptions. Dates listed on the website start with your departure date from the US and include the day you arrive home.
For this trip you will need to arrive in Kathmandu, Nepal on Day 3 of the itinerary. You will cross the date line in mid-flight to Asia, thus losing a day. If you are traveling from outside the US. your itinerary may require less time to reach Kathmandu, so all that is required is that you arrive on Day 3 of the itinerary, where Mountain Madness services begin. If you arrive early, we can assist with extra hotel arrangements and activities. Otherwise, you can arrive at any time on Day 3. You will be met at the airport by a Mountain Madness representative and transferred to your hotel.
Cho Oyu Day by Day
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Day 1-2
Travel
Travel from your home port to Kathmandu. All flights cross the date line and consequently a day is lost. Mountain Madness representatives will meet you at the airport and transport you to your hotel. Optional sightseeing of Kathmandu. Overnight at the hotel.
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Day 3
Kathmandu
Elevation: 4,383 ft / 1336 m
Arrive in Kathmandu on Day 3, where a Mountain Madness guide meets you. Great food from all over the world, fabulous shopping, and Durbar Square with its numerous temples and markets are nearby.
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DAY 4-5
Kathmandu
Elevation: 4,383 ft / 1336 m
We finalize last minute paperwork with the Nepal and Tibet governments. You will have a casual day shopping for souvenirs in the streets of Kathmandu, with abundant photo opportunities along the way. Visit the palaces, Durbar Square, Hindu temples, shrines, and Buddhist stupas or just relax at the hotel. Depending on the schedule, it may be possible to fly to Lhasa.
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Day 6-7
Lhasa
Elevation: 11,995 ft / 3656 m
We fly to Lhasa and the fascinating world of Tibet. We transfer to our hotel downtown. Elevation at Lhasa is over 12,000 feet / 3658 meters, so we use this opportunity to begin acclimatizing.We have an opportunity to visit the popular and awe inspiring Potala Palace, Lhasa’s most renowned landmark. Since its construction in 1694, the Potala has been the home of each of the successive Dalai Lamas until 1959 and the final resting place of many of them. In the afternoon we will visit the Jokhang Temple, the most revered religious structure in Tibet. We may visit Norbulingka Palace, which was the summer home of the Dalai Lamas, and Drepung monastery, once the world’s largest.
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Day 8
Shigatse
Elevation: 12,467 ft / 3800 m
We travel by 4×4 across the Tibetan plateau. We arrive in Shigatse, the second largest city of Tibet, in the afternoon. There, we tour Tashilhunpo Monastery. Built in 1447, this imposing complex is the residence of the Panchen Lama, the second most important religious figure in Tibet.
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Day 9
New Tingri
Elevation: 14,268 ft / 4349 m
Today will be a long travel day. Lunch stop will be in the town of Lhatse at 13,123 feet / 4000 meters. Our afternoon drive will take us over two passes above 16,404 feet / 5000 meters before arriving at the village of New Tingri.
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Day 10-11
Base Camp
Elevation: 18,500 ft / 4600 m
We drive through the scenic countryside to base camp. The next morning we will take an acclimatization hike to 18,000 feet / 5486 meters. After lunch we spend some time sorting gear before we head to Advanced Base Camp (ABC) the next day.
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Day 12-13
Advance Base Camp
Elevation: 21,000 ft / 6400 m
After breakfast we will depart on our two-day journey to Cho Oyu ABC. We will forge through the ice cold Ra Chhu River and set up intermediate camp. The following morning we trek to ABC and camp next to the Nangpa La. Camp will be at 19,029 feet / 5800 meters.
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Day 14-40
Cho Oyo
Our strategy is to place two more camps at 21,325 feet / 6500 meters and 23,294 feet / 7100 meters while we acclimatize for our summit attempt. This includes spending a night at 23,294 feet / 7100 meters before descending back to ABC. We rest at ABC for approximately 4 days depending on weather and the strength of the team. On our summit push we climb to Camp 1, then Camp 2 and then establish Camp 3 at 23,294 feet / 7400 meters. On summit day we leave at 2 am. Depending on the strength of the team we should summit between 9 – 11 am We will descend to our high camp or Camp 2 for the night. The next day we will descend to ABC.
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Day 41
Base Camp
Elevation: 18,500 ft / 5600 m
Our yaks will arrive in the morning. We trek down to base camp and arrive late in the day.
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Day 42-43
Zhangmu
Elevation: 7,500 ft / 2300 m
In the morning we will have a quick clean-up of the base camp area before the trucks pick us up there. We then make the adventurous drive to Zhangmu on the border of Tibet and Nepal.
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Day 44
Kathmandu
Elevation: 4,383 ft / 1336 m
After checking through with the Chinese border patrol and customs, we drive through the lush country of Nepal. The countryside is filled with warm and friendly people, beautiful waterfalls and terraced hillsides.
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Day 45-46
Fly Home
Depart Kathmandu and fly home.
Note on Itinerary: Although we do our very best to follow the schedule listed, this itinerary is subject to change due to inclement weather, unsafe route conditions, or other reasons beyond our control and in the guide’s best judgement.
Equipment for Cho Oyu
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Carrying Gear
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Summit pack (40L)
Lightweight as possible with a volume approximately 2,500 cubic inches (40 liters)
Examples:
Osprey Mutant 38
Black Diamond Speed 40
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Large capacity climbing pack (65+L)
Lightweight as possible with a volume of 4,000+ cubic inches (65+ liters)
Examples:
Osprey Aether 70, Black Diamond Mission
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Small duffel bag
Large enough to hold everything you’re not taking on the mountain. Will be stored at hotel, to be used after trip
Examples:
Patagonia Black Hole
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2 Large duffel bags
Two at least 7,000 cubic inch capacity (150 liters). Must be durable and waterproof
Examples:
Patagonia Black Hole
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Small padlock for duffel bags
Extra security
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Baggage tags
Makes identifying your bags easy at airports or hotels
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Sleeping Gear
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Expedition quality sleeping bag (-20F/-30C Down or Synthetic)
One down or synthetic bag rated from -20°F / -30°C
Examples:
Feathered Friends Ptarmigan, Marmot Col
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Expedition quality sleeping bag (-40F Down or Synthetic)
One down or synthetic bag rated from -40°F / -40°C
Examples:
Feathered Friends Snow Goose EX, Marmot Cwm
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Sleeping pad (inflatable or closed cell foam)
A foam pad will be provided but a supplemental pad is recommended. This can be an inflatable or closed cell foam pad. Make sure to purchase a pad rated for cold conditions.
Examples:
Therm-a-Rest NeoAir & Therm-a-Rest Z Lite Sol
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Sleeping pad (foam)
A foam pad will be provided but a supplemental sleeping pad is advised for warmth and comfort. Closed cell foam 3/4 or full length. This pad is used in conjunction with the first pad
Examples:
Therm-a-rest Ridgerest
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Climbing Gear
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Alpine climbing harness
Must have adjustable leg loops and fit over all clothing
Examples:
Black Diamond Couloir, Petzl Altitude, Petzl Hirundos
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Mountaineering ice axe
under 5’7” use 60cm, 5’7”-6’2” use 60 or 65cm, over 6’2” use 70cm
Examples:
Black Diamond Raven, Petzl Glacier
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Crampons w/ anti-balling plate
Steel 12-pont. Must be fit to climbing boots prior to trip, new-matic/hybrid type
Examples:
Black Diamond Sabretooth, Petzl Vasak
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Locking carabiners (3)
Three large, pear-shaped carabiners are best
Examples:
Black Diamond Rock Lock, Petzl William, Petzl Attache
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Non-locking carabiners (8)
8 non-locking carabiners. wired straight-gates are recommended
Examples:
Black Diamond HotWire
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Ascenders (Pair)
One full set of ascenders with handles for fixed lines
Examples:
Petzl Ascension
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Belay device (plaquette)
Tube style
Examples:
Black Diamond ATC Guide, Petzl Reverso
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Climbing helmet
Lightweight
Examples:
Black Diamond Half Dome, Petzl Elios
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50’ of perlon accessory cord
Accessory cord, made of nylon, is useful for many purposes on an expedition. You should bring 50 feet of 6mm cord
Examples:
Sterling
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Adjustable trekking poles
Three piece poles recommended
Examples:
Black Diamond Trail Back Pole
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Head and Face
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Fleece or wool hat
It must cover the ears
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Shade hat or baseball cap
A visor hat with a good brim is essential for protection from the sun
Examples:
Mountain Madness trucker hat
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Bandanas or neck gaiter
Various uses, i.e. cleaning glasses, sun protection when tied around the neck, etc. We have our own Mountain Madness neck gaiter available for purchase!
Examples:
Mountain Madness neck gaiter
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Balaclava or Buff
A thin balaclava will add significant warmth on that cold summit day
Examples:
Outdoor Research, Marmot
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Facemask
Neoprene or microfleece ski type
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Nose guard
To protect you from the wind and sun
Examples:
Beko
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Glacier glasses
100% UV protection with side shields and a hard-sided storage case
Examples:
Julbo
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Ski goggles
To fit over glacier glasses in high wind. Rose or amber lenses
Examples:
Smith, Oakley
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Hands
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Leather work gloves
One pair lightweight to spare your climbing while doing camp chores
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Liner gloves
Two pairs thin fleece or synthetic
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Softshell gloves
One pair medium-weight for daily wear when it’s not too cold
Examples:
Black Diamond Arc, Arcteryx Zenta LT Glove
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Expedition gloves
Insulated, water resistant shell with leather palms
Examples:
Black Diamond Guide
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Expedition mitts
One pair Gore-Tex or equivalent, with textured palms and taped seams. Synthetic or down filled. Warm, heavy duty for cold temperatures
Examples:
Outdoor Research Altimitt
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Feet
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Thin socks (6 pair)
Six pairs of synthetic or wool socks to wear under heavy wool socks to help prevent blisters and keep feet dry
Examples:
Smartwool or Cool Max
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Thick socks (6 pair)
Six pairs of synthetic or wool socks, medium to heavyweight. Check boot fit with thin and thick socks on
Examples:
Smartwool or Thorlo
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Booties
Synthetic or down to keep feet warm while in tent
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Camp boot
For warmth and comfort at base camp
Examples:
Sorrel Caribou, Uggs
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High-altitude double mountaineering boots (8000m)
Insulated boots rated for 8,000-meter peak climbs with a warm removable liner and built in, insulated overboot
Examples:
La Sportiva Olympus Mons, Scarpa Phantom 8000
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Light hiking boots or trail shoes
For acclimatization hikes
Examples:
Salomon X-Ultra 3 Mid, Merrell Moab, La Sportiva Boulder Ex
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Upper Body
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Synthetic t-shirts
Two synthetic or merino wool t-shirts. No cotton!
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Long-sleeved Base Layer
Two lightweight to mediumweight, pull-over is best
Examples:
Patagonia Capilene
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Sports bras
Two, synthetic, no cotton!
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Light fleece hoodie
Light or medium-weight fleece (or wool) top with a hood. You will wear this over your light weight base layer
Examples:
Mountain Equipment Eclipse Half-Zip Hoodie
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Softshell Jacket w/ hood
This is what you will be wearing while hiking at higher altitudes or while kicking around camps at lower altitude. This jacket should be full-zip
Examples:
Outdoor Research Ferrosi
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Hardshell jacket w/ hood
A good jacket made of Gore-Tex (recommended) or waterproof nylon, roomy enough to fit over multiple layers
Examples:
Outdoor Research Foray, Patagonia Triolet
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Expedition down parka w/ hood (Feathered Friends Rock and Ice Parka, Marmot 8000 Meter Parka)
This is your most important piece of warm gear and will mean the difference between an enjoyable climb or a miserable one. A warm, full zip jacket with hood is mandatory. It’s important that you jacket is 700+ fill down, baffle construction (not sewn through seams) and as a thick, insulated hood
Examples:
Feathered Friends Rock and Ice Parka, Marmot 8000 Meter Parka
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Expedition down suit
You will be living in this above 7,500 meters!
Examples:
Feathered Friends Expedition Suit, Marmot 8000 Meter Suit
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Sun hoody
This piece with a high SPF rating and lightweight fabric offers protection from high altitude sun
Examples:
Outdoor Research
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Lower Body
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Undergarments
Adequate supply for the entire trip
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Long base layer
Two pairs light or mediumweight
Examples:
Patagonia Capilene
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Softshell pants
Softshell pants are water resistant, yet highly breathable and durable. Great for colder conditions over a pair of long underwear or tights higher on the mountain or summit day
Examples:
Outdoor Research Voodoo, Mountain Hardwear Touren, Patagonia Guide
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Hardshell pants
waterproof and breathable with side zips (minimum of ¾ zips recommended) Gore-Tex or equivalent
Examples:
Outdoor Research Furio, Arcteryx Beta AR
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Insulated pants
Synthetic or down with full side zip. Warm insulation for upper mountain
Examples:
Mountain Hardwear Compressor
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Miscellaneous
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Stuff sacks/ditty bags/plastic bags
To organize gear in your duffle and pack. All clothing should be kept dry using waterproof stuff sacks or large heavyweight plastic bags (trash compactor bags work great)
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Toiletries
Toothbrush and paste, comb, tampons, biodegradable soap (small amount), etc. Bring enough for the entire trip
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Toilet paper
1 – 2 rolls stored in a plastic bag
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Sunscreen
Bring plenty of sun block with SPF of 40 or more. It's easy to underestimate the amount necessary for your trip!
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Lip balm
Must have SPF rating of 20 or more. Bring two just in case!
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Ear plugs
To block out snoring and other noise to ensure a good night's sleep
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Hand and foot warmers
Bring four sets of each
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Water bottles with insulators
Two one-liter wide-mouthed plastic bottles
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Small stainless-steel thermos (optional)
For hot beverages on summit day
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Water purification
Steri Pen, Potable Aqua, Polar Pure crystal iodine. Purifies drinking water while on the trip.
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Water flavoring
Powdered additives like Gatorade or NUUN are a nice change of pace to water and help replenish much needed electrolytes.
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Large plastic bowl
Bring a 2-4 cup camping bowl or a plastic "Rubbermaid" style container for your mountain dining
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Insulated cup (12-16oz)
A 12-16 oz (350-500 ml) mug with an attached lid will help keep you hydrated
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Lexan spoon or spork
Lightweight and strong
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Headlamp
Bring extra batteries!
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Pocket knife or multitool
Simple Swiss Army type with scissors. Make sure you transport in checked bag, not carry-on!
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Personal first aid and drug kit
small personal first aid kit with ample bandaids and moleskin
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Nausea medications
Pepto Bismol tablets; Maalox, Gelusil M or Mylanta antacid tablets. Donnatal for stomach cramps. Probiotic capsules taken daily may help keep your gastro-intestinal system working smoothly
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Towel
For wash up in camp
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Handi-Wipes
A small pack or two anti-bacterial are great for general hygiene
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Spare contacts and glasses
Contacts can be a problem in dusty conditions, so make sure you have your back-up glasses with you. Glasses wearers should have a spare set
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Snacks (general)
Bring your favorite snacks and power/energy bars or if there is something else you particularly like to eat while hiking and climbing
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Spare bottle for a pee bottle, and a pee funnel (Lady J or Freshette) for women
It can be a cold walk to the toilet at night
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Insect repellent
A must!
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Personal electronics
Phone with camera, and/or separate camera. Bring extra batteries and memory!
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Electronics charging
If you want to charge your electronics along the way, a small, lightweight solar panel to charge batteries or portable charging device may be a good addition
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Travel power adapter
Most come in kits with all the plugs you need. Double-check to make sure you’re taking the correct adapter/plugs
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Travel clothing
Comfortable clothing for travel before and after the expedition
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Book Trip
Cho Oyu
$27,500
46 Days / Includes travel time
Elevation
26,906 ft / 8201 m
Route
Normal Route
Guide Ratios
4:1 client to guide ratio, plus 2:1 client to Sherpa guide ratio
Difficulty
Advanced Intermediate
Climbers should be comfortable climbing on exposed ridges, 45 to 60 degree snow/ice slopes and/or 5.6+ rock and have a well-rounded past history of climbing experience. Depending on the objective, climbers may need only snow/ice skills or only rock skills; and vice-versa. Some climbs may require both skill sets.
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