Mount Logan Expedition
The Perfect Alternative to Denali. Scale unimaginable, Location Remote.
The climb of Mount Logan, Canada’s highest peak, is similar to Denali in expedition character and length, yet more extreme due to its remoteness and level of commitment. Our guided ascent to Mount Logan epitomizes Mountain Madness’ spirit of adventure and will provide a huge challenge, but one with incredible
reward.
Everything about the trip is big, including the scale of the region’s geography, which is enormous. Not only is Mount Logan’s bulk “more than any other mountain in the Western Hemisphere,” but its neighbors – Mount Saint Elias, Mount Bona, Mount King and McArthur – boast equally massive relief and equally storied mountaineering histories. With this scale comes isolation, so team members may well feel they are the only ones around for miles and miles, experiencing wilderness in the purest sense.
Although comparable with other big mountain classics, such as Aconcagua, Mount Everest, Vinson, and Nun, Mount Logan is often overlooked, but certainly among the greatest expeditions on the planet.
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Description
Mount Logan is located in the St. Elias Mountain Range of Canada’s Yukon Territory and is the second highest peak in North America. The Mount Logan massif is part of the most extensive non-polar icefield in the world. Our route of choice – the King Trench – was the one used for the mountain’s first ascent in June, 1925. Unprecedented in audacity, scale, and logistical challenge, and culminating in a desperate float down the Chitina River when all team members could no longer walk due to frostbite, many consider the original expedition to be “among the most arduous mountain adventures ever undertaken.” It is all the more impressive as it was the first ever attempt, by any route, on the mountain – a true adventure of epic proportions into the unknown.
With the help of an air taxi approach from Kluane Lake to the Alaskan-Yukon border, today’s teams can cut the expedition length to a manageable three weeks. While the King Trench is far and away the most frequently climbed route on Logan, it is unlike Denali, which has a semi-permanent park service ranger patrol, hundreds of climbers at camp and on route, and never-ending plane traffic. The climbing style of the two is quite similar, however, with four to five camps being set up in the course of two weeks, a carry high, sleep low tactic is what we favor. All loads are carried by team members with the use of glacier sleds and on skis.
The traverse of Logan’s summit area presents a considerable high-altitude effort of almost 4 miles of climbing between 17,600 feet / 5364 meters and the true summit at 19,545 feet / 5957 meters. Combine this with all its other challenges — significant glacier travel through icefalls and huge crevasses, cold temperatures, and extreme weather due to its proximity to the Gulf of Alaska – we consider Logan to be one of the most strenuous high-altitude climbs we offer at Mountain Madness. Guided attempts have been few, so this will be a golden opportunity, especially for Canadians, to summit Canada’s highest peak!
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Qualifications
This is an intermediate level expedition climb. The seriousness of Logan in terms of weather, altitude, and overall commitment level cannot be overstated. We consider it a notch above Denali in seriousness. Prerequisites include altitude experience over 14,000 feet / 4267 meters, solid glacier travel skills, winter camping experience, and excellent physical fitness.
This climb involves the following:
- Skiing to camps
- Glacier travel, steep snow and ice climbing to 50-degrees
- Heavy loads up to 60 lbs
- Sustained expedition travel utilizing sleds
- Winter camping and long work days at altitude
- A very long (12+ hour) summit day
- Climbers should be in excellent physical condition and have a healthy and team-oriented expedition mentality
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Trip Perks
Few attempt Mount Logan, and even fewer succeed in reaching its summit. To reach its summit brings an elusive membership into to a rare group of individuals that have stood on the highest point of Canada.
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Price
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Mount Logan Pricing 2025
from $10,775 – 25 Days
Includes Glacier flights and shuttle from Whitehorse to Kluane Lake (RT)
- 3:2 - 13,400 per person
- 4:2 - 11,600 per person
- 5:2 - 10,775 per person
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Price Includes
- Guide services
- Glacier flights for you and the guides
- All food and fuel once on the mountain
- All group equipment (tents, climbing gear, etc)
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Price Does Not Include
- Airfare to Whitehorse
- Hotel accommodations in Whitehorse/Kluane
- Meals in town
- Personal climbing gear
- Travel insurance with trip cancellation, medical and evacuation policy
- Guide gratuities
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Payment Schedule
- $1,500 deposit upon confirmation of your eligibility to join the expedition, which includes a $300 non-refundable registration fee
- Balance due 120 days prior to departure
- The balance may be paid by check, wire transfer, ACH or credit card with a 3% convenience fee
Dates
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Mount Logan 2025
- May 12, 2025 — Jun 5, 2025
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Mount Logan 2026
- May 11, 2026 — Jun 4, 2026
Policies
Cancellation / Refund Policy
- MMI strongly recommends trip cancellation/interruption and evacuation insurance for all trips. Our insurance partner, Ripcord, offers comprehensive travel insurance including trip cancellation, as well as rescue/evacuation policies and can assist in answering any questions. In addition, Participant is expected to have sufficient medical insurance as prescribed by their country of origin. Participant understands that MMI does not include any type of insurance with the cost of the trip.
- If you decide to cancel your trip or change your itinerary, MMI must be notified in writing. Your trip will be cancelled from the date written notice is received. If proper written cancellation notice is not received, amounts paid and reservations made will be forfeited.
- Non-refundable fees may apply for certain trips in order to secure permits and other services. MMI must strictly adhere to cancellation policies outside MMI’s control.
- Due to the personalized service we offer on our trips, MMI reserves the right to waive any fees. We will attempt to accommodate changes and cancellations, waiving certain fees when feasible.
- Circumstances outside the control of MMI and its partners, may require amended cancellation/refund policies. Such circumstances may include, but are not limited to COVID-19, natural disasters, terrorism and so forth.
Trips with Special Consideration (Carstensz, Cho Oyu, Denali, Logan and Vinson):
- Full refund, less the non-refundable deposit/registration fee, will be provided 121 days or more before the departure date
- No refunds will be provided 120 days or less before the departure date
Trip Insurance
We strongly recommend the purchase of travel cancellation insurance to protect you from the unexpected. You aren’t likely to think of it now, but people do get ill, break a bone, have a family emergency or get assigned to a last-minute business trip. If you are in remote areas, please note that emergency rescue & evacuation can be very expensive.
We also strongly urge you to consider rescue and evacuation insurance if your own policy does not provide the coverage needed. Services available may include, but are not limited to, helicopter evacuation, medical care, etc.
If you choose not to purchase insurance, you assume full responsibility for any expenses incurred in the event of a medical emergency and/or evacuation, as well as for trip cancellation, interruption, lost luggage, etc. We are not the experts and therefore ask that you please consult our travel insurance partner directly with any specific questions.
To protect against losses due to illness, accident, or other unforeseen circumstances, Mountain Madness strongly recommends the purchase of travel insurance as soon as possible after making a deposit. Mountain Madness has partnered with Redpoint Resolutions as our preferred travel insurance provider. Redpoint’s Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ is designed for adventurers.
For a quote, or to purchase travel insurance, please click this link Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ or call +1 – 415-481‑0600. Pricing varies based on age, trip cost, trip length, and level of coverage.
Critical benefits of Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance include:
- A completely integrated program with a single point of contact for emergency services, travel assistance, and insurance claims
- Evacuation and rescue services from your point of injury or illness to your hospital of choice
- Comprehensive travel insurance for trip cancellation/interruption, primary medical expense coverage, baggage loss or delay, emergency accident and emergency sickness medical expense, emergency dental, accidental death and dismemberment, and more
- Optional security evacuation coverage in case of an unplanned natural disaster or other security events
- Waiver for pre-existing conditions (must be purchased within 14 days of tour deposit)
- Optional “Cancel for Any Reason” coverage (must be purchased within 14 days of tour deposit)
Itinerary
Flight Information
Group members fly into Whitehorse in Yukon Territories and must be present for the team meeting at 9 am on Day 1 of the expedition. We will then transfer via van to Kluane Lake for pick up by Ultima Thule Air Taxi Service.
Logan is a big, serious mountain with big mountain weather, geography and acclimatization issues. The following itinerary represents a very basic outline of what could happen on a given day during the course of a Logan expedition. Many factors can, and probably will, contribute to cause the following schedule to change. Our guides know the mountain and may elect to depart from this itinerary in order to give you the best possible shot at getting to the summit.
Mount Logan Day by Day
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Day 1
Whitehorse
The team meeting at 9 am in Whitehorse at the Days Inn Hotel (2288 Second Avenue) for a trip briefing. We’ll then have individual gear checks. This allows time to pick up last minute gear and supplies at the Canadian Superstore, Riverside Grocery, and Coastal Mountain Sports (http://www.cmsyukon.ca).
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Day 2
Kluane Lake / Basecamp
Elevation: 8,860 ft / 2,700 m
Depart at 7am for Kluane Lake (two hours by shuttle), and then fly to Base Camp. Weather permitting, we’ll fly to base camp on the Quintino Sella Glacier.
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Day 3-4
Extra fly in days
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Day 5
Camp 1
Elevation: 8,860 ft / 2,700 m
Single carry to Camp 1. A six-hour, night-schedule haul on lower angle glacier to the entrance of the King Trench.
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Day 6
Camp 2
Elevation: 10,800 ft / 3,290 m
Carry to Camp 2.
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Day 7
Camp 2
King Trench Camp Move to Camp 2.
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Day 8
Rest Day
Rest at Camp 2.
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Day 9
Carry
Elevation: 13,400 ft / 4,085 m
King Col Carry to 12,500 below Camp 3, return to Camp 2.
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Day 10
Camp 3
Elevation: 13,400 ft / 4,085 m
Move to Camp 3 at King Col.
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Day 11
Carry
Elevation: 13,400 ft / 4,085 m
Back carry and rest at Camp 3.
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Day 12
Carry through MacCarthy Gap
Elevation:15,300 ft / 4,663 m
Carry to 15,300 feet / 4663 meters. From King Col we’ll route find up the MacCarthy Gap, a 1,500-foot high slope with angles of up to 45 degrees. This is the crux of the climb, but does not involve technical climbing. Make a cache at around 15,300 feet / 4663 meters for Camp 4 and return to King Col.
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Day 13
Camp 4
Elevation: 15,300 ft / 4,663 m
Move to Camp 4.
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Day 14
Rest/Acclimatization Day
A short day to rest and acclimatize. Possibly move a small load.
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Day 15
Carry
Elevation: 18,130 ft / 5,525 m
Carry to Prospector’s Col (Iona Col) at about 18,000 feet / 5486 meters and leave a cache. Return to Camp 4. A tough day at altitude.
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Day 16
Rest/Acclimatization Day
Elevation: 15,300 ft / 4,663 m
Rest and acclimatize at Camp 4 before the big move to high camp.
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Day 17
Camp 5
Elevation: 16,900 ft / 5,150 m
Move to Camp 5 on the summit plateau. We’ll grab three days of food at Prospector’s Col along the way before descending to camp on the great ice plateau.
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Day 18-22
Summit
Elevation: 19,545 ft / 5,957 m
Possible summit days. It is a long, high altitude walk of 3 — 4 miles to the summit from high camp. It is not difficult terrain, but a very demanding day of 10 – 15 hours. Return to camp 5.
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Day 23
Camp 4
Elevation: 15,300 ft / 4,663 m
Climb back over Prospectors Col and descend to Camp 4.
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Day 24
Camp 2
Elevation: 10,800 ft / 3,290 m
Descend to Camp 2 or continue as far as possible. We’ll collect caches along the way. At Camp 2 we’ll switch back to night schedule for the lower-elevation travel to Base Camp.
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Day 25
Whitehorse
Descend to Base Camp. Fly to Kluane Lake and transfer to Whitehorse.
Equipment for Mount Logan Expedition
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Carrying Gear
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Large capacity climbing pack (85-105L)
Lightweight as possible with a volume of 5,000 – 6,500 cubic inches (85-105 liters)
Examples:
Osprey Aether 85, Osprey Zenith 105
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Large duffel bag (150L)
One at least 7,000 cubic inch capacity (150 liters). Must be durable and waterproof
Examples:
Patagonia Black Hole
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Small duffel bag
Large enough to hold everything you’re not taking on the mountain. Will be stored at hotel, to be used after trip
Examples:
Patagonia Black Hole
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Cache bag
A very large stuff sack 2,000 cubic inches (35 liters). Lightweight and waterproof
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Small padlock for duffel bags
Extra security
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Baggage tags
Makes identifying your bags easy at airports or hotels
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Sleeping Gear
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Expedition quality sleeping bag (-20F down)
One down bag rated from -20°F / -30°C
Examples:
Feathered Friends Ptarmigan, Marmot Col
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Sleeping pad (inflatable or closed cell foam)
A foam pad will be provided but a supplemental pad is recommended. This can be an inflatable or closed cell foam pad. Make sure to purchase a pad rated for cold conditions.
Examples:
Therm-a-Rest NeoAir & Therm-a-Rest Z Lite Sol
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Sleeping pad (foam)
A foam pad will be provided but a supplemental sleeping pad is advised for warmth and comfort. Closed cell foam 3/4 or full length. This pad is used in conjunction with the first pad
Examples:
Therm-a-rest Ridgerest
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Climbing Gear
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Alpine climbing harness
Must have adjustable leg loops and fit over all clothing
Examples:
Black Diamond Couloir, Petzl Altitude, Petzl Hirundos
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Mountaineering ice axe
under 5’7” use 60cm, 5’7”-6’2” use 60 or 65cm, over 6’2” use 70cm
Examples:
Black Diamond Raven, Petzl Glacier
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Crampons w/ anti-balling plate
Steel 12-pont. Must be fit to climbing boots prior to trip, new-matic/hybrid type
Examples:
Black Diamond Sabretooth, Petzl Vasak
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Locking carabiners (4)
Four large, pear-shaped carabiners are best
Examples:
Black Diamond Rock Lock, Petzl William, Petzl Attache
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Non-locking carabiners (6)
6 non-locking carabiners. wired straight-gates are recommended
Examples:
Black Diamond HotWire
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Primary attachment locking carabiner
Triple action locking carabiner
Examples:
Petzl William TriAct
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Ascender (single)
One full-sized ascender with handle for fixed lines (left handed for right handed climbers, or vice-versa)
Examples:
Petzl Ascension
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Double length nylon runner (48" or 120cm)
be sure to get nylon not dyneema (18mm width)
Examples:
Black Diamond Nylon Slings
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60’ of perlon accessory cord
You should bring 50 feet of 6mm cord
Examples:
Sterling
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Adjustable trekking poles
Three piece poles recommended
Examples:
Black Diamond Trail Back Pole
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Shovel
small collapsible style
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Avalance Probe
no ski pole probes!
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Avalanche Beacon
beacon needs to be on 457 frequency
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Climbing skins
with Glop Stopper skin wax
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Collapsible Ski Poles
adjustable ski poles with powder (big) baskets
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Split snowboard
backcountry touring specific snowboard
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Skis
with alpine touring or telemark bindings
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Head and Face
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Fleece or wool hat
It must cover the ears
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Shade hat or baseball cap
A visor hat with a good brim is essential for protection from the sun
Examples:
Mountain Madness trucker hat
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Bandanas or neck gaiter
Various uses, i.e. cleaning glasses, sun protection when tied around the neck, etc. We have our own Mountain Madness neck gaiter available for purchase!
Examples:
Mountain Madness neck gaiter
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Balaclava or Buff
A thin balaclava will add significant warmth on that cold summit day
Examples:
Outdoor Research, Marmot
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Facemask
Neoprene or microfleece ski type
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Nose guard
To protect you from the wind and sun
Examples:
Beko
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Glacier glasses
100% UV protection with side shields and a hard-sided storage case
Examples:
Julbo
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Ski goggles
To fit over glacier glasses in high wind. Rose or amber lenses
Examples:
Smith, Oakley
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Hands
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Liner gloves
Two pairs thin fleece or synthetic
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Softshell gloves
One pair medium-weight for daily wear when it’s not too cold
Examples:
Black Diamond Arc, Arcteryx Zenta LT Glove
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Expedition gloves
Insulated, water resistant shell with leather palms
Examples:
Black Diamond Guide
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Expedition mitts
One pair Gore-Tex or equivalent, with textured palms and taped seams. Synthetic or down filled. Warm, heavy duty for cold temperatures
Examples:
Outdoor Research Altimitt
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Feet
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Thin socks (6 pair)
Six pairs of synthetic or wool socks to wear under heavy wool socks to help prevent blisters and keep feet dry
Examples:
Smartwool or Cool Max
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Thick socks (6 pair)
Six pairs of synthetic or wool socks, medium to heavyweight. Check boot fit with thin and thick socks on
Examples:
Smartwool or Thorlo
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Booties
Synthetic or down to keep feet warm while in tent
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Light hiking boots or trail shoes
For acclimatization hikes
Examples:
Salomon X-Ultra 3 Mid, Merrell Moab, La Sportiva Boulder Ex
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Alpine touring ski or snowboard boots
lightweight
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Upper Body
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Synthetic t-shirts
Two synthetic or merino wool t-shirts. No cotton!
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Long-sleeved Base Layer
Two lightweight to mediumweight, pull-over is best
Examples:
Patagonia Capilene
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Sports bras
Two, synthetic, no cotton!
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Light fleece hoodie
Light or medium-weight fleece (or wool) top with a hood. You will wear this over your light weight base layer
Examples:
Mountain Equipment Eclipse Half-Zip Hoodie
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Down or synthetic jacket w/hood
This is your most important piece of warm gear and will mean the difference between an enjoyable climb or a miserable one. A warm, full zip jacket with hood is ideal.
Examples:
Helly Hansen Vanir, Feathered Friends Volant, Marmot Guide’s Down Hoody, Outdoor Research Virtuoso Hoody
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Softshell Jacket w/ hood
This is what you will be wearing while hiking at higher altitudes or while kicking around camps at lower altitude. This jacket should be full-zip
Examples:
Outdoor Research Ferrosi
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Hardshell jacket w/ hood
A good jacket made of Gore-Tex (recommended) or waterproof nylon, roomy enough to fit over multiple layers
Examples:
Outdoor Research Foray, Patagonia Triolet
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Expedition down parka w/ hood (Feathered Friends Rock and Ice Parka, Marmot 8000 Meter Parka)
This is your most important piece of warm gear and will mean the difference between an enjoyable climb or a miserable one. A warm, full zip jacket with hood is mandatory. It’s important that you jacket is 700+ fill down, baffle construction (not sewn through seams) and as a thick, insulated hood
Examples:
Feathered Friends Rock and Ice Parka, Marmot 8000 Meter Parka
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Sun hoody
This piece with a high SPF rating and lightweight fabric offers protection from high altitude sun
Examples:
Outdoor Research
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Lower Body
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Undergarments
Adequate supply for the entire trip
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Long base layer
Two pairs light or mediumweight
Examples:
Patagonia Capilene
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Softshell pants
Softshell pants are water resistant, yet highly breathable and durable. Great for colder conditions over a pair of long underwear or tights higher on the mountain or summit day
Examples:
Outdoor Research Voodoo, Mountain Hardwear Touren, Patagonia Guide
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Hardshell pants
waterproof and breathable with side zips (minimum of ¾ zips recommended) Gore-Tex or equivalent
Examples:
Outdoor Research Furio, Arcteryx Beta AR
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Insulated pants
Synthetic or down with full side zip. Warm insulation for upper mountain
Examples:
Mountain Hardwear Compressor
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Miscellaneous
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Stuff sacks/ditty bags/plastic bags
To organize gear in your duffle and pack. All clothing should be kept dry using waterproof stuff sacks or large heavyweight plastic bags (trash compactor bags work great)
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Toiletries
Toothbrush and paste, comb, tampons, biodegradable soap (small amount), etc. Bring enough for the entire trip
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Toilet paper
1 – 2 rolls stored in a plastic bag
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Sunscreen
Bring plenty of sun block with SPF of 40 or more. It's easy to underestimate the amount necessary for your trip!
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Lip balm
Must have SPF rating of 20 or more. Bring two just in case!
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Ear plugs
To block out snoring and other noise to ensure a good night's sleep
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Water bottles with insulators
Two one-liter wide-mouthed plastic bottles
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Hydration bladder (optional)
hydration bladder or water bag with drinking tube (must also have 1 Nalgene Bottle or equivalent)
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Small stainless-steel thermos (optional)
For hot beverages on summit day
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Water purification
Steri Pen, Potable Aqua, Polar Pure crystal iodine. Purifies drinking water while on the trip.
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Large plastic bowl
Bring a 2-4 cup camping bowl or a plastic "Rubbermaid" style container for your mountain dining
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Water flavoring
Powdered additives like Gatorade or NUUN are a nice change of pace to water and help replenish much needed electrolytes.
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Insulated cup (12-16oz)
A 12-16 oz (350-500 ml) mug with an attached lid will help keep you hydrated
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Lexan spoon or spork
Lightweight and strong
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Headlamp
Bring extra batteries!
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Pocket knife or multitool
Simple Swiss Army type with scissors. Make sure you transport in checked bag, not carry-on!
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Personal first aid and drug kit
small personal first aid kit with ample bandaids and moleskin
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Nausea medications
Pepto Bismol tablets; Maalox, Gelusil M or Mylanta antacid tablets. Donnatal for stomach cramps. Probiotic capsules taken daily may help keep your gastro-intestinal system working smoothly
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Towel
For wash up in camp
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Handi-Wipes
A small pack or two anti-bacterial are great for general hygiene
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Spare contacts and glasses
Contacts can be a problem in dusty conditions, so make sure you have your back-up glasses with you. Glasses wearers should have a spare set
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Snacks (general)
Bring your favorite snacks and power/energy bars or if there is something else you particularly like to eat while hiking and climbing
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Spare bottle for a pee bottle, and a pee funnel (Lady J or Freshette) for women
It can be a cold walk to the toilet at night
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Insect repellent
A must!
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Personal electronics
Phone with camera, and/or separate camera. Bring extra batteries and memory!
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Electronics charging
If you want to charge your electronics along the way, a small, lightweight solar panel to charge batteries or portable charging device may be a good addition
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Travel power adapter
Most come in kits with all the plugs you need. Double-check to make sure you’re taking the correct adapter/plugs
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Travel clothing
Comfortable clothing for travel before and after the expedition
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Book Trip
Mount Logan Pricing 2025
from $10,775
25 Days
Includes Glacier flights and shuttle from Whitehorse to Kluane Lake (RT)
- 3:2 - 13,400 per person
- 4:2 - 11,600 per person
- 5:2 - 10,775 per person
Elevation
19,545 ft / 5957 m
Route
King Trench
Difficulty
Advanced
Climbers should be comfortable on 45 to 60 degree snow/ice slopes, waterfall ice climbing up to WI2-WI3, and/or moderate rock from 5.6-5.8+. Participants will have a well-rounded history of climbing experience.
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