Chopakalki and Ishinca Valley Expedition
Climb Three Peruvian Summits to Almost 21,000 Feet / 6400 Meters
Climbing expeditions to Peru’s Cordillera Blanca Range offer challenging ascents and a trip with incredible summits that rival the Himalayas. Elegant corniced ridges, delicately fluted ice faces, emerald green lakes and inviting valleys make the area a mountaineer’s paradise. Sharpen your crampons and ice axes and get ready some tropical snow and ice. These mountains contain some of the greatest vertical relief to be found outside the Himalayas, and offer climbing challenges equal to those found in the great ranges of the world — and Chopakalki is among the most beautiful in the range and goal worthy of any alpinist.
This classic expedition is well suited to advanced beginner and intermediate climbers, especially those with future goals on bigger peaks of the Himalayas. The climbs offer moderate glacier climbing challenges with occasional route finding difficulties through crevassed areas, and just enough steep snow and ice sections to keep things interesting for strong beginner-intermediate level climbers. And if you’re short on time, climb Urus and Ishinca in a 12-day itinerary that includes travel time.
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Trip Perks
Break the 20,00-foot / 6000-meter barrier! Watching the sunrise over the Amazon rainforest and witness it lighting up the surrounding peaks on summit day.
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Description
We will warm up on Nevado Ishinca and Urus, then climb the easternmost peak in the Huascaran Massif, the beautifully fluted Nevado Chopakalki.
After a warm-up and acclimatization that includes ascents of Ishinca and Urus, both in the spectacular Ishinca Valley, the expedition travels to a camp situated by stunning turquoise lakes in the spectacular Llanganuco Valley. From there we establish multiple camps on the way to the summit of Chopakalki.
The classic west ridge of Chopakalki, which means “situated half within” in the local Quechua dialect in reference to its location halfway between the Ulta and Llanganuco valleys, provides climbers with occasional sections of 55-degree snow/ice and is one of the finest objectives in the range.
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Price
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Ishinca and Urus
$4,175 – 12 days / Includes travel time
Minimum 4 participants
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Single Supplement (I want my own room) – $400
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Chopakalki, Ishinca and Urus
$5,375 – 17 days / Includes travel time
Minimum 4 participants
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Single Supplement (I want my own room) – $600
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Price Includes
- Guide(s) and staff
- Park fees
- One scheduled hotel night in Lima (double occupancy)
- Five scheduled hotel nights in Huaraz (double occupancy)
- Scheduled restaurant meals
- All food while on the climb
- All group climbing gear, tents and cooking gear
- All expedition staff including porters and pack animals
- Ground transportation and airport transfers
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Price Does Not Include
- International airfare and domestic airfare if applicable
- Personal equipment and clothing
- Personal expenses (phone calls, laundry, room service, extra hotel nights, extra meals, etc.)
- Personal porter
- Day 1 meals
- Lunch Day 2 and 16
- Alcoholic and bottled beverages
- Travel insurance with trip cancellation, medical and evacuation policy
- All expenses associated with non-scheduled departure
- Guide/Staff gratuities
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Payment Schedule
- $700 deposit at time of registration, which includes a $300 non-refundable registration fee
- Balance due 120 days prior to departure
- The balance may be paid by check, wire transfer, ACH or credit card with a 3% convenience fee
Dates
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Ishinca and Urus 2025
- Jun 18, 2025 — Jun 29, 2025
- Jul 23, 2025 — Aug 3, 2025
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Chopakalki, Ishinca and Urus 2025
- Jun 18, 2025 — Jul 4, 2025
- Jul 23, 2025 — Aug 8, 2025
Custom Dates Available — Contact Us
Policies
Cancellation / Refund Policy
- MMI strongly recommends trip cancellation/interruption and evacuation insurance for all trips. Our insurance partner, Ripcord, offers comprehensive travel insurance including trip cancellation, as well as rescue/evacuation policies and can assist in answering any questions. In addition, Participant is expected to have sufficient medical insurance as prescribed by their country of origin. Participant understands that MMI does not include any type of insurance with the cost of the trip.
- If you decide to cancel your trip or change your itinerary, MMI must be notified in writing. Your trip will be cancelled from the date written notice is received. If proper written cancellation notice is not received, amounts paid and reservations made will be forfeited.
- Non-refundable fees may apply for certain trips in order to secure permits and other services. MMI must strictly adhere to cancellation policies outside MMI’s control.
- Due to the personalized service we offer on our trips, MMI reserves the right to waive any fees. We will attempt to accommodate changes and cancellations, waiving certain fees when feasible.
- Circumstances outside the control of MMI and its partners, may require amended cancellation/refund policies. Such circumstances may include, but are not limited to COVID-19, natural disasters, wildfires, terrorism and so forth.
International Trips/Courses:
- Full refund, less the non-refundable registration fee, will be provided 121 days or more before the departure date
- No refunds will be provided 120 days or less before the departure date
Trip Insurance
We strongly recommend the purchase of travel cancellation insurance to protect you from the unexpected. You aren’t likely to think of it now, but people do get ill, break a bone, have a family emergency or get assigned to a last-minute business trip. If you are in remote areas, please note that emergency rescue & evacuation can be very expensive.
We also strongly urge you to consider rescue and evacuation insurance if your own policy does not provide the coverage needed. Services available may include, but are not limited to, helicopter evacuation, medical care, etc.
If you choose not to purchase insurance, you assume full responsibility for any expenses incurred in the event of a medical emergency and/or evacuation, as well as for trip cancellation, interruption, lost luggage, etc. We are not the experts and therefore ask that you please consult our travel insurance partner directly with any specific questions.
To protect against losses due to illness, accident, or other unforeseen circumstances, Mountain Madness strongly recommends the purchase of travel insurance as soon as possible after making a deposit. Mountain Madness has partnered with Redpoint Resolutions as our preferred travel insurance provider. Redpoint’s Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ is designed for adventurers.
For a quote, or to purchase travel insurance, please click this link Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ or call +1 – 415-481‑0600. Pricing varies based on age, trip cost, trip length, and level of coverage.
Critical benefits of Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance include:
- A completely integrated program with a single point of contact for emergency services, travel assistance, and insurance claims
- Evacuation and rescue services from your point of injury or illness to your hospital of choice
- Comprehensive travel insurance for trip cancellation/interruption, primary medical expense coverage, baggage loss or delay, emergency accident and emergency sickness medical expense, emergency dental, accidental death and dismemberment, and more
- Optional security evacuation coverage in case of an unplanned natural disaster or other security events
- Waiver for pre-existing conditions (must be purchased within 14 days of tour deposit)
- Optional “Cancel for Any Reason” coverage (must be purchased within 14 days of tour deposit)
Itinerary
Flight Information
The total number of days for your trip includes all travel to and from your destination, with some exceptions. Dates listed on the website start with a departure date from the U.S. and include the day you arrive home. For this trip you will need to arrive in Lima, Peru on Day 1. You will be met at the airport by a Mountain Madness representative and transferred to your hotel.
Chopakalki and Ishinca Valley Day by Day
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Day 1
Lima
Fly to Lima, Peru. Mountain Madness services begin when you arrive in Lima on the night of Day 1, where you will be transferred to your hotel to meet the rest of the group.
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Day 2
Huaraz
Elevation: 10,013 ft / 3052 m
Travel to Huaraz. Hotel night.
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Day 3
Huaraz
Elevation: 10,013 ft / 3052 m
First acclimatization hike. Several options exist, but one of our favorite of groups joining us is Laguna Wilcacocha. Return to Huaraz after hike.
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Day 4
Huaraz
Elevation: 10,013 ft / 3052 m
Day hike to the turquoise waters of Laguna Churup (14,764 ft / 4500 m); approximately five hours of hiking round trip. Return to Huaraz, overnight in hotel.
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Day 5
Ishinca Hut
Elevation: 13,451 ft / 4100 m
Pack your bags and drive to the small mountain village of Pashpa where the donkeys get loaded and your group begins the eight-mile hike to the head of the Ishinca Valley. Establish base camp at 13,451 feet / 4100 meters. Rest!
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Day 6
Longoni Shelter
Elevation: 14,435 ft / 4400 m
We will start late from the Ishinka Hut and hike for three hours to Longoni shelter, located at the base of the glaciers between Ishinka peak and Ranrapalca (5000 m). Here we will rest before tomorrow’s climb.
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Day 7
Ishinca Summit Day
Elevation: 13,451 ft / 4100 m
From the Longoni Shelter we climb to the base of the north face of Ranrapalca, where we will enter the glaciers (two hours). From there it will take about four hours to reach the summit of Ishinca. Descend to the Ishinca hut.
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Day 8
Ishinca Hut
Elevation: 13,451 ft / 4100 m
Rest, skills review.
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Day 9
Urus Summit Day
Elevation: 13,451 ft / 4100 m
Your first alpine start has you leaving camp by 4 am. Work your way up the steep moraine to the toe of the glacier where you’ll put on crampons, harnesses, and rope up. Weave your way to the summit, usually arriving around 1a am. Return to base camp for a well-earned dinner and sleep!
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Day 10
Huaraz
Elevation: 10,013 ft / 3052 m
Hike out to Huaraz
Rest and prepare for Chopikalki.
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Day 11
Moraine Camp
Elevation: 16,075 ft / 4900 m
Today, after an energizing breakfast at the lodge, a steep, scenic hike takes us to the Moraine Camp (Camp 1) located at about 16,075 feet. Four to five hour hike. This will be a porter-assisted day.
For climbers doing the 12-day itinerary you will travel to Lima for a night flight home and an arrival home the next day, the twelfth day of the expedition.
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Day 12
High Camp
Elevation: 17,056 ft / 5199 m
After moving through the moraine above Camp 1 we rope and climb on the glacier to our high camp (Camp 2) at about 17,056 feet / 5199 meters. An early dinner, then it’s time to rest for the early wake up.
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Day 13-14
Moraine Camp / Chopakalki Summit Day
Elevation: 16,075 ft / 4900 m
Two days are reserved for the summit climb. Relatively straightforward glacier travel leads to the saddle between Chopakalki ( 20,817 ft / 6345 m) and the elegant east ridge of Huascaran Sur. From the saddle glacier, slopes interspersed with short, steep sections (up to 60 degrees) lead to the wildly corniced and fluted summit. This is an incredible day! Return to either high camp or the Moraine Camp.
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Day 15
Huaraz
Elevation: 10,013 ft / 3052 m
Return to Huaraz for some much needed rest and relaxation. We will be treated to a traditional Peruvian dinner and dancing.
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Day 16-17
Fly Home
Catch a red-eye flight leaving Lima on Day 16, arriving at your final destination on Day 17.
Note on Itinerary: Although we do our very best to follow the schedule listed, this itinerary is subject to change due to inclement weather, unsafe route conditions, or other reasons beyond our control and in the guide’s best judgement.
Equipment for Chopakalki and Ishinca Valley Expedition
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Carrying Gear
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Summit pack (40-50L)
Lightweight as possible with a volume between 2,500-3,500 cubic inches (40-50 liters) serves most people’s needs well
Examples:
Osprey Mutant 38, Black Diamond Speed 40
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Large capacity climbing pack (70-85L)
Lightweight as possible with a volume of 4,000 – 5,000 cubic inches (70 - 85 liters)
Examples:
Osprey Aether 70
Osprey Aether 85
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Large duffel bag (150L)
One at least 7,000 cubic inch capacity (150 liters). Must be durable and waterproof
Examples:
Patagonia Black Hole
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Small duffel bag
Large enough to hold everything you’re not taking on the mountain. Will be stored at hotel, to be used after trip
Examples:
Patagonia Black Hole
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Small padlock for duffel bags
Extra security
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Baggage tags
Makes identifying your bags easy at airports or hotels
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Sleeping Gear
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Expedition quality sleeping bag (-10-0F)
One down or synthetic bag rated from -10 - 0°F /-18 to -23°C
Examples:
Feathered Friends Snowbunting, Marmot Never Summer
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Sleeping pad (inflatable or closed cell foam)
A foam pad will be provided but a supplemental pad is recommended. This can be an inflatable or closed cell foam pad. Make sure to purchase a pad rated for cold conditions.
Examples:
Therm-a-Rest NeoAir & Therm-a-Rest Z Lite Sol
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Climbing Gear
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Alpine climbing harness
Must have adjustable leg loops and fit over all clothing
Examples:
Black Diamond Couloir, Petzl Altitude, Petzl Hirundos
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Locking carabiners (2)
Two large, pear-shaped carabiners are best
Examples:
Black Diamond Rock Lock, Petzl William, Petzl Attache
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Belay device (plaquette)
Tube style
Examples:
Black Diamond ATC Guide, Petzl Reverso
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Mountaineering ice axe
under 5’7” use 60cm, 5’7”-6’2” use 60 or 65cm, over 6’2” use 70cm
Examples:
Black Diamond Raven, Petzl Glacier
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Hybrid ice tool
lightweight
Examples:
Petzl Gully
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Crampons w/ anti-balling plate
Steel 12-pont. Must be fit to climbing boots prior to trip, new-matic/hybrid type
Examples:
Black Diamond Sabretooth, Petzl Vasak
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Climbing helmet
Lightweight
Examples:
Black Diamond Half Dome, Petzl Elios
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Double length nylon runner (48" or 120cm)
be sure to get nylon not dyneema (18mm width)
Examples:
Black Diamond Nylon Slings
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Single length runner (24" or 60cm)
be sure to get nylon not dyneema (18mm width)
Examples:
Black Diamond Nylon Slings
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30’ of perlon accessory cord (6mm)
30 feet of 6mm cord
Examples:
Sterling
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Adjustable trekking poles
Three piece poles recommended
Examples:
Black Diamond Trail Back Pole
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Head and Face
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Fleece or wool hat
It must cover the ears
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Shade hat or baseball cap
A visor hat with a good brim is essential for protection from the sun
Examples:
Mountain Madness trucker hat
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Bandanas or neck gaiter
Various uses, i.e. cleaning glasses, sun protection when tied around the neck, etc. We have our own Mountain Madness neck gaiter available for purchase!
Examples:
Mountain Madness neck gaiter
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Balaclava or Buff
A thin balaclava will add significant warmth on that cold summit day
Examples:
Outdoor Research, Marmot
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Glacier glasses
100% UV protection with side shields and a hard-sided storage case
Examples:
Julbo
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Ski goggles
To fit over glacier glasses in high wind. Rose or amber lenses
Examples:
Smith, Oakley
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Hands
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Liner gloves
Two pairs thin fleece or synthetic
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Warm gloves
One pair fleece or wool with water resistant shell
Examples:
Outdoor Research Arete
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Expedition mitts
One pair Gore-Tex or equivalent, with textured palms and taped seams. Synthetic or down filled. Warm, heavy duty for cold temperatures
Examples:
Outdoor Research Altimitt
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Feet
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Thin socks (2 pair)
Two pairs of synthetic or wool socks to wear under heavy wool socks to help prevent blisters and keep feet dry
Examples:
Smartwool or Cool Max
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Thick socks (3 pair)
Three pairs of synthetic or wool socks, medium to heavyweight. Check boot fit with thin and thick socks on
Examples:
Smartwool or Thorlo
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Gaiters
One pair of gaiters made of breathable material; keeps dirt and snow out of boots. Make sure they fit over your boots
Examples:
Outdoor Research Verglas or Crocodiles
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Plastic mountaineering boots
Depending on your future mountaineering endeavors, a boot such as the La Sportiva Spantik is a good investment for those who are pursuing other high-altitude climbs (such as Aconcagua or Denali), whereas the Koflach Degre would be the choice for those looking for a warm boot in moderate conditions. If you are looking at hybrid leather/plastic boots, make sure it is rated for 6,000-meter peak climbs or winter mountaineering
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Light hiking boots or trail shoes
For acclimatization hikes
Examples:
Salomon X-Ultra 3 Mid, Merrell Moab, La Sportiva Boulder Ex
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Upper Body
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Synthetic t-shirts
Two synthetic or merino wool t-shirts. No cotton!
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Long-sleeved Base Layer
Two lightweight to mediumweight, pull-over is best
Examples:
Patagonia Capilene
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Sports bras
Two, synthetic, no cotton!
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Softshell Jacket w/ hood
This is what you will be wearing while hiking at higher altitudes or while kicking around camps at lower altitude. This jacket should be full-zip
Examples:
Outdoor Research Ferrosi
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Hardshell jacket w/ hood
A good jacket made of Gore-Tex (recommended) or waterproof nylon, roomy enough to fit over multiple layers
Examples:
Outdoor Research Foray, Patagonia Triolet
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Down or synthetic jacket w/hood
This is your most important piece of warm gear and will mean the difference between an enjoyable climb or a miserable one. A warm, full zip jacket with hood is ideal.
Examples:
Helly Hansen Vanir, Feathered Friends Volant, Marmot Guide’s Down Hoody, Outdoor Research Virtuoso Hoody
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Sun hoody
This piece with a high SPF rating and lightweight fabric offers protection from high altitude sun
Examples:
Outdoor Research
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Lower Body
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Undergarments
Adequate supply for the entire trip
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Hiking shorts
One pair of quick-drying shorts. Good for hiking at lower elevations on the mountain
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Long base layer
Two pairs light or mediumweight
Examples:
Patagonia Capilene
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Softshell pants
Softshell pants are water resistant, yet highly breathable and durable. Great for colder conditions over a pair of long underwear or tights higher on the mountain or summit day
Examples:
Outdoor Research Voodoo, Mountain Hardwear Touren, Patagonia Guide
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Hardshell pants
waterproof and breathable with side zips (minimum of ¾ zips recommended) Gore-Tex or equivalent
Examples:
Outdoor Research Furio, Arcteryx Beta AR
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Miscellaneous
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Stuff sacks/ditty bags/plastic bags
To organize gear in your duffle and pack. All clothing should be kept dry using waterproof stuff sacks or large heavyweight plastic bags (trash compactor bags work great)
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Toiletries
Toothbrush and paste, comb, tampons, biodegradable soap (small amount), etc. Bring enough for the entire trip
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Toilet paper
1 – 2 rolls stored in a plastic bag
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Sunscreen
Bring plenty of sun block with SPF of 40 or more. It's easy to underestimate the amount necessary for your trip!
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Lip balm
Must have SPF rating of 20 or more. Bring two just in case!
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Ear plugs
To block out snoring and other noise to ensure a good night's sleep
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Water bottles with insulators
Two one-liter wide-mouthed plastic bottles
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Small stainless-steel thermos (optional)
For hot beverages on summit day
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Water purification
Steri Pen, Potable Aqua, Polar Pure crystal iodine. Purifies drinking water while on the trip.
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Water flavoring
Powdered additives like Gatorade or NUUN are a nice change of pace to water and help replenish much needed electrolytes.
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Headlamp
Bring extra batteries!
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Pocket knife or multitool
Simple Swiss Army type with scissors. Make sure you transport in checked bag, not carry-on!
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Personal first aid and drug kit
small personal first aid kit with ample bandaids and moleskin
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Nausea medications
Pepto Bismol tablets; Maalox, Gelusil M or Mylanta antacid tablets. Donnatal for stomach cramps. Probiotic capsules taken daily may help keep your gastro-intestinal system working smoothly
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Towel
For wash up in camp
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Handi-Wipes
A small pack or two anti-bacterial are great for general hygiene
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Spare contacts and glasses
Contacts can be a problem in dusty conditions, so make sure you have your back-up glasses with you. Glasses wearers should have a spare set
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Snacks (general)
Bring your favorite snacks and power/energy bars or if there is something else you particularly like to eat while hiking and climbing
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Spare bottle for a pee bottle, and a pee funnel (Lady J or Freshette) for women
It can be a cold walk to the toilet at night
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Insect repellent
A must!
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Personal electronics
Phone with camera, and/or separate camera. Bring extra batteries and memory!
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Electronics charging
If you want to charge your electronics along the way, a small, lightweight solar panel to charge batteries or portable charging device may be a good addition
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Travel power adapter
Most come in kits with all the plugs you need. Double-check to make sure you’re taking the correct adapter/plugs
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Travel clothing
Comfortable clothing for travel before and after the expedition
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Book Trip
Ishinca and Urus
$4,175
12 days / Includes travel time
Minimum 4 participants
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Book Trip
Chopakalki, Ishinca and Urus
$5,375
17 days / Includes travel time
Minimum 4 participants
Elevation
Nevado Chopakalki 20,817 ft / 6345 m
Nevado Ishinca 18,143 ft / 5530 m
Nevado Urus 17,777 ft / 5420 m
Route
West Ridge of Chopakalki
Difficulty
Advanced Beginner
Climbers should have basic snow and ice-climbing skills and should be comfortable with glacier travel, which includes moving in a rope team, self arrest, and basic crevasse rescue. Basic knowledge and experience would be required for objectives with some rock climbing.
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