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- Sep 26, 2014
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Easy Accessibility for Great Climbing in Peru!
Here’s a look back on one of our aweÂsome advenÂtures this sumÂmer. Alan Rousseau reportÂed from Peru after a sucÂcessÂful expeÂdiÂtion to the Cordillera Blanca.
“I am writÂing this while on the secÂond stoÂry of a bus bound for Lima. The intimÂiÂdatÂing glaciatÂed fins of the Cordillera BlanÂca lay peaceÂfulÂly in the rear view. I have spent the last two weeks guidÂing YanaÂpacÂcha and ChopikalÂki. ClimbÂing in Peru has been a dream of mine for years. HowÂevÂer, my calÂenÂdar from June to SepÂtemÂber (the climbÂing seaÂson in Peru) has always been domÂiÂnatÂed by guidÂing for MounÂtain MadÂness in the CasÂcade Range.

ChopikalÂki moraine camp. Alan Rousseau photo
“This year MounÂtain MadÂness proÂvidÂed me the opporÂtuÂniÂty to travÂel to a range I had always wantÂed to expeÂriÂence to guide a 15 day Yana and Chopi expeÂdiÂtion with AleÂjo Lazzatti.
“When I think back on this trip and the peaks of the Cordillera BlanÂca two descripÂtors stand out: scale and access. I found myself takÂing a bus to get to enviÂronÂments I had to trek 6 days to get to in Nepal. The proxÂimÂiÂty of high points allows one to accliÂmaÂtize by climbÂing lowÂer peaks; before attemptÂing a giant like Chopi.
“The availÂabilÂiÂty of porter supÂport allows for lighter packs and incredÂiÂble food. As well as a unique interÂacÂtion with the always friendÂly and hardÂworkÂing peoÂple of Peru.

CebolÂla PamÂpa. Alan Rousseau photo
“After everyÂone met in Lima we boardÂed a bus bound for Huaraz (10,000 feet), the ChaÂmonix of South AmerÂiÂca, as AleÂjo describes it. From Huaraz, day hikes to incredÂiÂble lakes at nearÂly 15000 feet are posÂsiÂble. We conÂtinÂued our acclimaÂtiÂzaÂtion by campÂing in the high altiÂtude meadÂows of the CebolÂla PamÂpa (onion flats) camp locatÂed in the same valÂley as YanaÂpacÂcha and PisÂco. A few hour hike took us to Lake 69 (lakes are numÂbered in Peru).

Lake 69. Alan Rousseau photo
“FinalÂly on the 6th day of the trip we headÂed to our first climbÂing objecÂtive. The group caught a van to 15,000 feet, with porters and cooks in tow, we proÂceedÂed to YanaÂpacÂchaÂ’s moraine camp below 16,000 feet. We spent the next mornÂing climbÂing steep ice, workÂing on econÂoÂmy of moveÂment and mulÂti-pitch transitions.
“After a secÂond evening at 15,800 feet, we went to the tents earÂly and tried to rest up for our 12 am wake up. We moved well thru the lowÂer slopes of the west face and soon found ourÂselves in pitched out terÂrain. It turned out to be a whole lot of pitched climbÂing on 60 degree neve, roughÂly 350 meters. This was a surÂprise to all, for some a pleasÂant one for othÂers not so pleasÂant. We all expeÂriÂenced the calf burn of endÂless 60 degree front pointÂing. As well as the comÂplexÂiÂties of descendÂing a face of that magÂniÂtude. When the day was done 100% of the climbers in our expeÂdiÂtion stood on top of YanaÂpacÂcha! A huge achievement.

West face of YanaÂpacÂcha. Alan Rousseau photo
“After the abnorÂmalÂly icy conÂdiÂtions on YanaÂpacÂcha some memÂbers of the team felt like they had accomÂplished what they had set out to do, othÂers came down with the flu, and forÂtuÂnateÂly some were still pumped for ChopikalÂki. So we said goodÂbye to four climbers after YanaÂpacÂcha and set out for ChopikalÂki with four climbers, four guides, and our trusty cooks and porters.
“As we approached moraine camp, clouds began to roll thru the valÂley. For the first time I began to fear our high presÂsure was endÂing. The next day we awoke enveloped in cloud. A mornÂing weathÂer foreÂcast from MM world headÂquarÂters in SeatÂtle told us weathÂer was buildÂing. We knew if we didÂn’t move up that day the climb wouldÂn’t happen.
“So our optionÂal rest day was skipped and we moved highÂer into the clouds to our 18,000 foot camp. That night the clouds lowÂered with the sun, and we woke up at 11pm to a starÂry sky. DurÂing our tea and light pre-climb breakÂfast, whisps of cloud were blowÂing thru our camp. I was worÂried the clouds would also rise with the sun. ForÂtuÂnateÂly my fears were nevÂer valÂiÂdatÂed. We moved quickÂly onto the SW ridge of Chopi and through sevÂerÂal pitchÂes of steep icy terÂrain up to 75 degrees. The route winds up thru improbÂaÂble terÂrain. With a few steep steps, a couÂple crevasse jumps, and a bit of luck we made it to the top of Chopi sevÂen hours after leavÂing high camp.

SumÂmit of ChopikalÂki. Alan Rousseau photo
“As we returned to high camp it began to snow and we watched the foreÂcastÂed front overÂtake us. Our descent back to moraine camp that evening was in a windÂless snow shower.
“The next mornÂing the moraine camp was covÂered in a dustÂing of snow. Adding validÂiÂty to our deciÂsion, that the preÂviÂous day was the right day to go.
“After climbÂing our secÂond planned peak we returned to the comÂforts of Huaraz for a relaxÂing day before startÂing our jourÂneys home.
“Thank you to highÂly skilled local guides Edgar and Arnold as well as our giftÂed cooks Joaquin and Joel.
“ConÂgrats to all climbers on this trip for your climbÂing accomÂplishÂments; it was a pleaÂsure to spend time with you all in the always impresÂsive Cordillera Blanca.”
~ MM Guide Alan Rousseau