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- Jul 08, 2015
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Good Things Come To Those Who Wait
AlpaÂmayo has been coined the most beauÂtiÂful mounÂtain in the world. Long-time MounÂtain MadÂness climber Jeff D. has had the stunÂning phoÂto of the West Face of AlpaÂmayo on his phone screenÂsaver for a numÂber of years now. After he saw this magÂnifÂiÂcent peak on trek through the SanÂta Cruz ValÂley, he made it his goal to climb this techÂniÂcal climb that stands just under 6000 meters.
AlpaÂmayo base camp. Marc RipÂpergÂer photo
Jeff and I (MM guide Marc RipÂpergÂer) had first met through a Mount BakÂer Alpine Ice ClimbÂing Course. Jeff told me of his climbÂing asperÂaÂtions and goals of develÂopÂing the skills to give him the opporÂtuÂniÂty to posÂsiÂbly stand on top of AlpaÂmayo one day. After many email exchanges and conÂverÂsaÂtions Jeff came out to Ouray and climbed with me this winÂter to realÂly hone his ice skills. After a week of comÂpletÂing some clasÂsic ice routes in Ouray we marked our calanÂders for our trip to the Cordillera Blanca.
Jeff D. Marc RipÂpergÂer photo
Around the same time, long-time climbÂing guest of mine, CynÂthia A., asked me where she should go for a trip of a lifeÂtime. I told CynÂthia she should come to AlpaÂmayo. Years ago, CynÂthia was ambiÂtious to jump into this endeavÂor howÂevÂer I encourÂaged her gathÂer more expeÂriÂence on ice before attemptÂing such a techÂniÂcal climb. After ample time ice climbÂing, she was now ready.

CynÂthia A. CynÂthia Adams photo
The sumÂmer rolled around and we were all ready for our trip to Peru. After a whirlÂwind of late flights and runÂning to bus staÂtions, we arrived in Huaraz, the mounÂtain town that sits at the base of the Cordillera BlanÂca. Long time MM guide AleÂjo LazÂzaÂti met us at the bus staÂtion. We did an accimÂiÂtiÂzaÂtion hike and then got right to busiÂness with climbÂing the selÂdom-visÂitÂed HuaÂmashraÂju, a small introÂducÂtion into the Cordillera BlanÂca. As it turned out, that small endeavÂor was quite largÂer than expectÂed. The ambiÂtious schedÂule we creÂatÂed found us suckÂing air at 17,000 feet and climbÂing unexÂpectÂed steep snow-ice rock. Jeff and I forged on and the views on top were breathtaking.
After our major effort, we returned to HauÂraz and recovÂered from the unexÂpectÂed but worÂthy warm-up peak. Now we were all more than ready to take on AlpaÂmayo. CynÂthia, Jeff, myself and local guide Fredy Tipan packed our bags and burÂros and marched into the beauÂtiÂful SanÂta Cruz ValÂley. This famous trek proÂvides stunÂning views of the Cordillera BlanÂca and, with the comÂpaÂny of porters, we were able to do some fine dinÂing and have some luxÂuÂry items along the way. We slowÂly worked our way up the mounÂtain enjoyÂing blue skies and warm temps. As we got closÂer to high camp at 17,800 those blue skies began to vanÂish and the winds picked up. That night was a whirlÂwind of blowÂing snow and a sumÂmit attempt was not going to hapÂpen. Fredy assured us that the weathÂer would change tomorÂrow. We hung around and restÂed at high camp and, sure enough, the sky opened up and our alpine start was accomÂpaÂnied by moonÂlight and dazÂzling stars.

AlpaÂmayo. CynÂthia Adams photo
We made our way up pitch after pitch of 60 to 70 degree frozen snow and ice. The sun rose and we conÂtinÂued our climb in the mornÂing light, evenÂtuÂalÂly all findÂing ourÂselves on top of the most beauÂtiÂful mounÂtain in the world. CelÂeÂbraÂtion was in the air and we did 8 rapÂpels back down the route to find hot drinks and lunch waitÂing for us back at camp. After the prepaÂraÂtion and anticÂiÂpaÂtion for Jeff and CynÂthia, they were able to comÂplete a lifeÂtime goal! ConÂgratÂuÂaÂtionls to you both!

On the sumÂmit of AlpaÂmayo. CynÂthia Adams photo
You would think this blog ends here, howÂevÂer Jeff and I had sevÂerÂal more days left on our trip. Across from AlpaÂmayo sits the clasÂsic ParaÂmount PicÂtures mounÂtain ArtesonÂraÂju. With plenÂty of high presÂsure left, we coorÂdiÂnatÂed some more food to be hauled into baseÂcamp. A short walk across the valÂley put us in posiÂtion to climb yet anothÂer amazÂing mounÂtain. DurÂing the next sevÂerÂal days we made our way up to moriÂane camp and studÂied our route. The north ridge of ArtesonÂraÂju is climbed, but few parÂties had visÂitÂed this year and only one othÂer group had actuÂalÂly summited.
Marc RipÂpergÂer photo
We took off for our sumÂmit attempt on the full moon, weavÂing through cravassÂes and draÂmatÂic saracs each step of the way was engagÂing and advenÂturÂous. The mounÂtain became conÂtinÂuÂalÂly steepÂer and steepÂer as we got highÂer on the route. Jeff and his tenaÂcious spirÂit forged on and up. After our final pitch we arrived at the sumÂmit ridge and walked gloÂriÂousÂly over the the sumÂmit, well maybe a few steps and lots of stops along the way in order to catch our breath from the huge effort we both put forth. Jeff may nevÂer look at the ParaÂmount picÂtures movies the same again. We endÂed up being the secÂond parÂty on top of ArtesonÂraÂju this year.
On the sumÂmit of ArtesonÂraÂju. Marc RipÂpergÂer photo
I want to highÂlight the amazÂing effort put in by both CynÂthia and Jeff. I see all of my guests put in tons of time, trainÂing, planÂning, and menÂtalÂly preparÂing for expeÂdiÂtions. I can say it is so rewardÂing to me to be a part of trips like these where everyÂthing aligns and the mounÂtains allow us access to beauÂtiÂful sights and deep perÂsonÂal fulfillment.