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- Jul 02, 2014
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Ultimate Cordillera Blanca
The PeruÂvian climbÂing seaÂson kicked off with a great sucÂcess on the UltiÂmate Cordillera BlanÂca trip! Three clients and two guides sucÂcessÂfulÂly sumÂmitÂted MaparaÂju, Huapi, and IshÂinÂcha. ConÂgratÂuÂlaÂtions to everyÂone! Take a look at their stoÂry below:

ClimbÂing in the QuilÂcayÂhuanÂca. SebasÂtÂian CarÂrasÂco photo
This year I had the opporÂtuÂniÂty to guide three clients: Elaine, StuÂart, and Chok with the great help of Octavio, a local mounÂtain guide from Huaraz. I had heard a lot about the UltiÂmate Cordillera BlanÂca trip from my colÂleagues AleÂjo, GasÂpar, and Tyler who develÂoped this advenÂture with Shayan Rohani some years ago. This itinÂerÂary gave us the chance to enjoy this beauÂtiÂful range from three difÂferÂent valÂleys and lots of difÂferÂent views of big and ​“small” mountains.

Great weathÂer and great snow in the Cordillera BlanÂca. SebasÂtÂian CarÂrasÂco photo
After a couÂple of acclimaÂtiÂzaÂtion hikes around Huaraz, we walked in the QuilÂcayÂhuanÂca valÂley and set up our first camp at 14,271 feet/4,349 meters. From here we finalÂly had a view of MaparaÂju (17,473 feet/​5325 meters), our first objecÂtive. Once at the glacÂiÂer, the climb startÂed with a short steep rocky secÂtion. That put us on the top plateau, where we had a great view of Huantsan, anothÂer 20,000 feet peak which doesn’t get very many ascents. After a couÂple more hours of climbÂing snow ramps, we sumÂmitÂed MaparaÂju before 11am. The most impresÂsive view of Cayesh is from here; you just wonÂder how peoÂple can climb this neeÂdle of rock and ice.

On MaparaÂju with a view of Huantsan. SebasÂtÂian CarÂrasÂco photo
After movÂing camp and havÂing a nice rest day by Lake CuchillaÂcocha at 15,000 feet/​4572 meters, we met our porters who carÂried our gear north from QuilÂcayÂhuanÂca over to Cojup valÂley. MeanÂwhile that day, we climbed Huapi (17,847 feet/​5439 meters). For the approach we had negoÂtiÂatÂed some rocky terÂrain to get to the glacÂiÂer, and we were all hapÂpy to put on cramÂpons. HowÂevÂer, when we realÂized that the snow was not hard like we expectÂed, we knew that the climb was not going to be ​“easy,” espeÂcialÂly when we had to climb a 40-degree slope with snow up to our chests. SwimÂming lessons came in very handy in this secÂtion — espeÂcialÂly if you had some with an Olympic chamÂpiÂon! We reached the top at 10:30am, enjoyÂing an impresÂsive view of PucaranÂra’s glacÂiÂer, difÂferÂent colÂored lakes at the end of the valÂleys, and more 20,000 feet peaks on the horizon.
To cross over to Cojup ValÂley meant walkÂing down more rocky terÂrain, but with patience and care we manÂaged to make it to camp where the porters had the tents set up and ready for us. UnforÂtuÂnateÂly Elaine’s bag was missÂing with her gear, and she almost decidÂed that it was a good chance to finÂish the trip earÂly and go to Huaraz! But, the porters were keen enough to run out the valÂley to bring her bag, and before dinÂner time they were back!

The team is overÂjoyed upon reachÂing yet anothÂer sumÂmit. SebasÂtÂian CarÂrasÂco photo
From this camp at 15,091 feet/​4599 meters, we hiked down to the botÂtom of the Cojup ValÂley (14,107 feet/​4299 meters), to then climb up some steep terÂrain and camp at Lake PerÂolÂcocha (15,750 feet/​4800 meters). Our last climb startÂed before 4am, but this time the night was very dark; we could not see any stars, and even had very litÂtle snow. In order to join the norÂmal route for IshÂinÂcha (18,192 feet/​5544 meters), we had to climb up a snow ridge and then traÂverse east. Once in the track we only had a bit more than an hour to climb a small steep step to reach the sumÂmit by 8:30am! LuckÂiÂly it was not comÂpleteÂly overÂcast and we were able to enjoy the view of RanÂraÂpalÂca, TocliaraÂju and more peaks!

Big ice abounds in the PeruÂvian Andes. SebasÂtÂian CarÂrasÂco photo
From IshÂinÂca’s sumÂmit it took us around three hours of descent to arrive at camp and meet up with our excelÂlent cook, Juan, who, with the help of the porters, preÂpared a deliÂcious PachamanÂca, a traÂdiÂtionÂal meal from the PeruÂvian Andes. ComÂing out of IshÂinÂca’s valÂley showed us more mounÂtains in this beauÂtiÂful range, and I am sure that Elaine, StuÂart and Chok are already thinkÂing about their next visÂit to Huaraz.
~MM Guide SebasÂtÂian Carrasco