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- Jul 02, 2014
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Ultimate Cordillera Blanca
The Peruvian climbing season kicked off with a great success on the Ultimate Cordillera Blanca trip! Three clients and two guides successfully summitted Maparaju, Huapi, and Ishincha. Congratulations to everyone! Take a look at their story below:
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fsebas1_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=f9c48964502c8a1c7cbdc745056c68ed 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fsebas1_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=3f21c5c9090fcbc5865ea77aacbb802f 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fsebas1_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=eff23c97e1b3beb4da8f92c12fbf707e 576w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fsebas1_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=aafb218fbbd1b6ec1d2e2b40ec0beee1 576w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fsebas1_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=91b8940c34fcbb74220581bdb12491f7 576w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fsebas1_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=7320ee95170892854a1db605bb244280 576w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fsebas1_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=5d8daf2863c947c0d72f9224bbd2420d 576w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fsebas1_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=29060d6bd8d4eda61e07fe7b8cfb4a00 576w)
Climbing in the Quilcayhuanca. Sebastian Carrasco photo
This year I had the opportunity to guide three clients: Elaine, Stuart, and Chok with the great help of Octavio, a local mountain guide from Huaraz. I had heard a lot about the Ultimate Cordillera Blanca trip from my colleagues Alejo, Gaspar, and Tyler who developed this adventure with Shayan Rohani some years ago. This itinerary gave us the chance to enjoy this beautiful range from three different valleys and lots of different views of big and “small” mountains.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fsebas2_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=90f57f637cfe266ed8c0ab1918c7e284 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fsebas2_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=d9a218ca7e9415d13b2f9e39d08eac3e 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fsebas2_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=989f861a73b23de555cd70dc07dc8a18 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fsebas2_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=fc11a6f435cc2f3c5339974b4c175324 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fsebas2_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=01031401b0252f870de2551c5ab0535b 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fsebas2_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=140d4be6ca284c4c39000f0895954df2 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fsebas2_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=dd4d57a8515f92479e9b7f6b90e89758 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fsebas2_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=e3a83473105ddd107dd757853a7ea117 1024w)
Great weather and great snow in the Cordillera Blanca. Sebastian Carrasco photo
After a couple of acclimatization hikes around Huaraz, we walked in the Quilcayhuanca valley and set up our first camp at 14,271 feet/4,349 meters. From here we finally had a view of Maparaju (17,473 feet/5325 meters), our first objective. Once at the glacier, the climb started with a short steep rocky section. That put us on the top plateau, where we had a great view of Huantsan, another 20,000 feet peak which doesn’t get very many ascents. After a couple more hours of climbing snow ramps, we summited Maparaju before 11am. The most impressive view of Cayesh is from here; you just wonder how people can climb this needle of rock and ice.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fsebas3_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=17734a95c7bb447efb2c9abaa0927083 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fsebas3_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=baf457fcc190cde6f067b67a72f4fbfc 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fsebas3_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=f9cbacf34b4e42ed62a9dbf6e1d3f60b 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fsebas3_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=0e1cb15d255666ba627a76ede67bc290 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fsebas3_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=05a0372bce6c73aa0ef565c4f36dddf2 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fsebas3_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=52a6ca25171c475a0f6f2fce2985e859 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fsebas3_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=f32b668e3f82e85283f6a2cd6f8dd413 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fsebas3_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=19a705263cf11e35122b8c09411b79c2 1024w)
On Maparaju with a view of Huantsan. Sebastian Carrasco photo
After moving camp and having a nice rest day by Lake Cuchillacocha at 15,000 feet/4572 meters, we met our porters who carried our gear north from Quilcayhuanca over to Cojup valley. Meanwhile that day, we climbed Huapi (17,847 feet/5439 meters). For the approach we had negotiated some rocky terrain to get to the glacier, and we were all happy to put on crampons. However, when we realized that the snow was not hard like we expected, we knew that the climb was not going to be “easy,” especially when we had to climb a 40-degree slope with snow up to our chests. Swimming lessons came in very handy in this section — especially if you had some with an Olympic champion! We reached the top at 10:30am, enjoying an impressive view of Pucaranra’s glacier, different colored lakes at the end of the valleys, and more 20,000 feet peaks on the horizon.
To cross over to Cojup Valley meant walking down more rocky terrain, but with patience and care we managed to make it to camp where the porters had the tents set up and ready for us. Unfortunately Elaine’s bag was missing with her gear, and she almost decided that it was a good chance to finish the trip early and go to Huaraz! But, the porters were keen enough to run out the valley to bring her bag, and before dinner time they were back!
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fsebas5_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=11557ba07c6094d12f4f63c4098f79a8 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fsebas5_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=51c9a2ec29b7b83fcd25264d51d74c08 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fsebas5_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=29917f457650b7210de964cba4ecd96b 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fsebas5_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=40f95cca1bbfa5882e9b79cabdc99e0f 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fsebas5_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=a88abd4d698a94cd1a6cccb91fcf80e3 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fsebas5_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=98ae0f963244c4b25d65ef65b89a8b54 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fsebas5_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=4f8ac4a820a8a0c8f2cfdfa094a4a743 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fsebas5_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=f51eb4cb4ac8cb979a759d9a0a5cb4a6 1024w)
The team is overjoyed upon reaching yet another summit. Sebastian Carrasco photo
From this camp at 15,091 feet/4599 meters, we hiked down to the bottom of the Cojup Valley (14,107 feet/4299 meters), to then climb up some steep terrain and camp at Lake Perolcocha (15,750 feet/4800 meters). Our last climb started before 4am, but this time the night was very dark; we could not see any stars, and even had very little snow. In order to join the normal route for Ishincha (18,192 feet/5544 meters), we had to climb up a snow ridge and then traverse east. Once in the track we only had a bit more than an hour to climb a small steep step to reach the summit by 8:30am! Luckily it was not completely overcast and we were able to enjoy the view of Ranrapalca, Tocliaraju and more peaks!
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fsebas6_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=202718b55ff2eeecb8b803ef91369d1e 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fsebas6_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=1c29f8cc3578104051699269a20088a1 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fsebas6_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=70fa05d6083d5ed8d1eee9bde8c8d93c 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fsebas6_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=712b3355cba5beb1e049cc50b4d51cfb 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fsebas6_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=826ea23eaf571963b23092026633ad85 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fsebas6_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=53a552c1206aa71085d83a2e9ff26fde 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fsebas6_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=cad5a51b8e00afae88f75e51284a53eb 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fsebas6_1024px.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=8071eb5e873cd2cd845e329d1112b43e 1024w)
Big ice abounds in the Peruvian Andes. Sebastian Carrasco photo
From Ishinca’s summit it took us around three hours of descent to arrive at camp and meet up with our excellent cook, Juan, who, with the help of the porters, prepared a delicious Pachamanca, a traditional meal from the Peruvian Andes. Coming out of Ishinca’s valley showed us more mountains in this beautiful range, and I am sure that Elaine, Stuart and Chok are already thinking about their next visit to Huaraz.
~MM Guide Sebastian Carrasco