Pik Lenin
Ascend a 7000+-meter / 22,966+-foot Peak in the Pamir Mountains of Kyrgyzstan
A great introduction to climbing at elevations over 7000 meters, Pik Lenin is considered one of the most straightforward climbs of its altitude and is an excellent training peak for Mount Everest and the 8000 meter giants of the Himalaya.
Pik Lenin rests on the border of Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan. You’ll begin your adventure to the remote peak in the city of Osh, and instantly feel that you have traveled back in time. Osh is called the capital of the south and, with a population of just over 250,000 is the oldest and second largest city in the Kyrgyzstan. The ethnic influences of Uzbeks, Kyrgyr, Russians, and Tajiks are present in the language, architecture and cuisine. As was true 3,000 years ago, Osh is still a center of trade, connecting the Silk Road from China through central Asia.
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Trip Perks
Not to mention going over 7000 meters / 22,966 feet, you’ll travel back in time to an area where the once great Silk Road linked trade centers in this remote part of Asia. And if you’ve never been in a real yurt made from animal skins, where you can hang with the descendants of Gengis Khan and wash down some generously offered goat meat with kumis, a fermented beverage made from mare’s milk, then it’s time to pack your bags.
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Description
Pik Lenin is the third highest mountain in the former Soviet Union and is considered one of the most accessible peaks of over 7000 meters. While largely unknown amongst North American climbers, Lenin is well known to alpinists of Europe and Asia and is often used as a stepping stone to bigger peaks. But Pik Lenin is a giant in its own right, and the climbing is of a Himalayan scale – crossing massive glaciers and climbing snowy ridges at extremely high altitudes.
Pik Lenin is the highest peak in the Trans-Alai Range of the Pamir Mountains, on the border between Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan. Depending on what country you are in, Pik Lenin, previously named for the Russian revolutionary and first Soviet leader, is also known as Ibn Sina Peak, after the prominent Persian thinker. During the Soviet era, alpinists were given an award for climbing all five of the 7000 meter peaks of the Soviet Union. This tradition is continued today, which makes Pik Lenin a required summit for climbers receiving the prestigious Snow Leopard Award.
Step up your high-altitude climbing experience and join us on this accessible big mountain on an expedition to one of the greater mountain ranges of Asia.
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Qualifications
This peak is suited for climbers who are in excellent physical condition with basic mountaineering experience. You should be familiar with extreme cold, tent living, exposure to steep terrain, and more. In addition, members should be able to ascend and descend fixed lines independently and be proficient with cramponing on steep ice/snow slopes.
For those with minimal mountaineering and/or high altitude experience a logical progression might look like this:
- Participate in a climbing course in the North Cascades
- Climb high altitude peaks such as Mexico Volcanoes, Ecuador Volcanoes or climbs in Peru or Bolivia
OR;
- Climb Kilimanjaro or Mount Elbrus
- Participate in a mountaineering course in Bolivia, Ecuador or Peru
Have a Question? Contact Us!
Price
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Pik Lenin
$7,800 – 23 Days / includes travel time
Minimum 5 participants/ 2023 price subject to change
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Single Supplement – $600
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Price Includes
- 3:1 client to guide ratio and staff
- Climbing permit fees
- Scheduled hotel nights in Osh and Bishkek (double occupancy)
- Scheduled restaurant meals in Osh and Bishkek
- All food and lodging during the climb
- All team climbing gear, tents and cooking gear
- All expedition staff including, base camp personnel, porters and pack animals
- Use of electricity at Base Camp
- Airport transfers
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Price does not Include
- International airfare
- Kyrgyzstan entry visa and airport fees
- Personal climbing gear and clothing
- High altitude porters pr personal climbing gear and clothing
- Personal expenses (phone calls, laundry, room service, extra hotel nights, extra meals, base camp showers, etc.)
- Travel insurance with trip cancellation, medical and evacuation policy
- All expenses associated with non-scheduled departure
- Meals, Day 3
- Lunch, Day 4, 21
- Alcoholic and bottled beverages
- Guide/Staff gratuities
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Payment Schedule
- $700 deposit at time of registration, which includes a $300 non-refundable registration fee
- Balance due 120 days prior to departure
- The balance may be paid by check, wire transfer, ACH or credit card with a 3% convenience fee
Dates
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Pik Lenin 2023
- Jul 30, 2023 — Aug 21, 2023
Custom Dates Available — Contact Us
Policies
Cancellation / Refund Policy
- MMI strongly recommends trip cancellation/interruption and evacuation insurance for all trips. Our insurance partner, Ripcord, offers comprehensive travel insurance including trip cancellation, as well as rescue/evacuation policies and can assist in answering any questions. In addition, Participant is expected to have sufficient medical insurance as prescribed by their country of origin. Participant understands that MMI does not include any type of insurance with the cost of the trip.
- If you decide to cancel your trip or change your itinerary, MMI must be notified in writing. Your trip will be cancelled from the date written notice is received. If proper written cancellation notice is not received, amounts paid and reservations made will be forfeited.
- Non-refundable fees may apply for certain trips in order to secure permits and other services. MMI must strictly adhere to cancellation policies outside MMI’s control.
- Due to the personalized service we offer on our trips, MMI reserves the right to waive any fees. We will attempt to accommodate changes and cancellations, waiving certain fees when feasible.
- Circumstances outside the control of MMI and its partners, may require amended cancellation/refund policies. Such circumstances may include, but are not limited to COVID-19, natural disasters, terrorism and so forth.
International Trips/Courses:
- Full refund, less the non-refundable registration fee, will be provided 121 days or more before the departure date
- No refunds will be provided 120 days or less before the departure date
Trip Insurance
We strongly recommend the purchase of travel cancellation insurance to protect you from the unexpected. You aren’t likely to think of it now, but people do get ill, break a bone, have a family emergency or get assigned to a last-minute business trip. If you are in remote areas, please note that emergency rescue & evacuation can be very expensive.
We also strongly urge you to consider rescue and evacuation insurance if your own policy does not provide the coverage needed. Services available may include, but are not limited to, helicopter evacuation, medical care, etc.
If you choose not to purchase insurance, you assume full responsibility for any expenses incurred in the event of a medical emergency and/or evacuation, as well as for trip cancellation, interruption, lost luggage, etc. We are not the experts and therefore ask that you please consult our travel insurance partner directly with any specific questions.
To protect against losses due to illness, accident, or other unforeseen circumstances, Mountain Madness strongly recommends the purchase of travel insurance as soon as possible after making a deposit. Mountain Madness has partnered with Redpoint Resolutions as our preferred travel insurance provider. Redpoint’s Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ is designed for adventurers.
For a quote, or to purchase travel insurance, please click this link Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ or call +1 – 415-481‑0600. Pricing varies based on age, trip cost, trip length, and level of coverage.
Critical benefits of Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance include:
- A completely integrated program with a single point of contact for emergency services, travel assistance, and insurance claims
- Evacuation and rescue services from your point of injury or illness to your hospital of choice
- Comprehensive travel insurance for trip cancellation/interruption, primary medical expense coverage, baggage loss or delay, emergency accident and emergency sickness medical expense, emergency dental, accidental death and dismemberment, and more
- Optional security evacuation coverage in case of an unplanned natural disaster or other security events
- Waiver for pre-existing conditions (must be purchased within 14 days of tour deposit)
- Optional “Cancel for Any Reason” coverage (must be purchased within 14 days of tour deposit)
Itinerary
Flight Information
The total number of days for your trip includes all travel to and from your destination, with some exceptions. Dates listed on the website start with your departure date from the US and include the day you arrive home.
For this trip you will need to arrive in Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan on Day 3 of the itinerary. You will cross the date line in mid-flight to Asia, thus losing a day. If you are traveling from outside the US your itinerary may require less time to reach Bishkek, so all that is required is that you arrive on Day 3 of the itinerary, where Mountain Madness services begin. If you arrive early, we can assist with extra hotel arrangements and activities. Otherwise, you can arrive at any time on Day 3. You will be met at the airport by a Mountain Madness representative and transferred to your hotel.
Pik Lenin Day by Day
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Day 1-2
Travel
Travel to Kyrgyzstan takes several days coming from the US In order to provide you with the exact number of days needed for this excursion, we have included travel time in the itinerary. You will depart from the US on Day 1 and, by crossing the international date line, arrive in Bishkek early on Day 3, where Mountain Madness representatives will meet you and fly to Osh and hotel.
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Day 3
Osh
Meet Mountain Madness team in Bishkek and fly to Osh.
We will start our expedition in the city of Osh, the largest city in southern Kyrgyzstan. The ancient city of Osh was established more than 3,000 years ago. While there, we’ll visit the vibrant bazaar which has been operating from the same location for 2,000 years and was once a major silk road market.
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Day 4
Base Camp
Elevation: 11,811 ft / 3600 m
Today we will transfer to Achik-Tash Base Camp.
From Osh we’ll drive for about 4 – 5 hours (174 mi / 280 km) along the Grand Pamir Tract, directly to Pik Lenin base camp. Our base camp is situated at 11,811ft / 3600m on the verdant Edelweiss Glade.
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Day 5 - 6
Base Camp
Elevation: 11,811 ft / 3600 m
Rest and preparation days at our comfortable base camp.
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Day 7
Base Camp
Elevation: 14,400 ft / 4400 m
From Base Camp, you’ll continue to acclimatize with a 4 – 5 hour hike up nearby 15,800 ft / 4,830 m Peak Petrovskiy. Along the way, you’ll experience the panoramic valley and its surrounding lakes before returning to Base Camp for another tasty meal and relaxation.
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Day 8
Base Camp
Elevation: 11,811 ft / 3600 m
Extra day reserved for bad weather.
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Day 9
Camp 1
Elevation: 14,400 ft / 4400 m
From Base Camp, we will climb the classic route of the North Face to Northwest Ridge. The route to Camp 1 takes us across the base camp meadow to a path that ascends towards Puteshestvennik Pass (13,780 ft / 4,200 m). After this pass, we climb switchbacks up a glacial moraine, which stretches along the left side of Lenin Glacier. Camp 1 is situated at the head of the glacier, on the rock moraine, of the Lenin glacier.
Our Camp 1 is located at m on the moraine of the Lenin glacier. At the end of a hearty day of climbing from Base Camp to Camp 1 — which is located at 14,400 ft / 4400 m — you’ll be treated to a cup of hot tea, a tasty lunch of meat and veggie pies and bread cooked in a traditional tandyr oven. After lunch, you can relax with a hot shower!From Camp 1, via our high-speed internet connection, you can connect with your friends and family at home. At night, you’ll sleep comfortably on a thick foam mattress.
Our Camp 1 team includes a professional physician who is on-call 24×7 in the case of any emergency on the mountain.
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Day 10
Camp 2
Elevation: 17,388 ft / 5300 m
From Camp 1, the route crosses the glacier and ascends a long snow slope that runs toward the summit. This section is largely crevassed and there are also often fixed ropes and ladders across some of the more broken sections. We then traverse beneath Razdelnaya Peak and ascend 1,312 ft / 400 m to arrive at Camp 2.
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Day 11
Camp 2
Elevation: 17,388 ft / 5300 m
Rest and preparation day at Camp 2.
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Day 12 - 14
Camp 2
These days may be used as needed at any point throughout the expedition as rest days, weather days or days to carry gear to higher camps.
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Day 15
Camp 3
Elevation: 20,013 ft / 6100 m
From Camp 2, you’ll climb up a steep snow slope to a stunning ridge which you will follow to the final steep snow slope that leads to Camp 3. Camp sits on the border of Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan. Here you will enjoy incredible views into Tajikistan as you rest after a strenuous day of climbing to 20,013 ft / 6100 m.
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Day 16
Camp 3 — High Camp
Elevation: 20,013 ft / 6100 m
Preparation day at camp 3. Rest, double-check gear and get ready for summit push.
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Day 17
Summit Day, return to Camp 3
Elevation: 13,780 ft / 4200 m
We’ll wake up early and, after a nutritious breakfast begin our climb to the 23,406 ft / 7,134 m summit. The route from camp 3 to the summit begins with an ascent of Pik Lenin’s northwest ridge. Then the route travels up snow and rock eventually reaching a plateau at 20,997 ft / 6,400 m. Continuing above the plateau, we will encounter a short, steep snow slope of about 40 degrees. Finally there is a rocky section that leads to the summit. The views are outstanding and, on a clear day, stretch across the Pamir to Mustagh Ata and Kongur to China. We return to Camp 3 via the same route. Summit day is a long and challenging day and often takes up to 15 hours.
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Day 18
Camp 1
Elevation: 13,780 ft / 4,200 m
Descend to Camp 1.
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Day 19
Base Camp
Elevation: 11,811 ft / 3600 m
Descend to Base Camp.
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Day 20
Osh
Elevation: 3,159 ft / 963 m
Transfer to Osh. Spend night in guest house.
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Day 21 - 22
Bishkek
Fly to Bishkek. Depart Bishkek and fly home. Arrive home Day 23.
Note on Itinerary: Although we do our very best to follow the schedule listed, this itinerary is subject to change due to inclement weather, unsafe route conditions, or other reasons beyond our control and in the guide’s best judgement.
Equipment for Pik Lenin
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Carrying Gear
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Summit pack (40-50L)
Lightweight as possible with a volume between 2,500-3,500 cubic inches (40-50 liters) serves most people’s needs well
Examples:
Osprey Mutant 38, Black Diamond Speed 40
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Large capacity climbing pack (70-85L)
Lightweight as possible with a volume of 4,000 – 5,000 cubic inches (70 - 85 liters)
Examples:
Osprey Aether 70
Osprey Aether 85
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Large duffel bag (150L)
One at least 7,000 cubic inch capacity (150 liters). Must be durable and waterproof
Examples:
Patagonia Black Hole
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Small duffel bag
Large enough to hold everything you’re not taking on the mountain. Will be stored at hotel, to be used after trip
Examples:
Patagonia Black Hole
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Small padlock for duffel bags
Extra security
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Baggage tags
Makes identifying your bags easy at airports or hotels
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Sleeping Gear
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Expedition quality sleeping bag (-20F/-30C Down or Synthetic)
One down or synthetic bag rated from -20°F / -30°C
Examples:
Feathered Friends Ptarmigan, Marmot Col
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Sleeping pad (inflatable)
Full length inflatable. When sleeping on snow make sure to purchase pad rated to do so
Examples:
Therm-a-Rest NeoAir
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Sleeping pad (foam)
Closed cell foam 3/4 or full length. This pad is used in conjunction with the first pad
Examples:
Therm-a-rest Ridgerest
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Climbing Gear
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Alpine climbing harness
Must have adjustable leg loops and fit over all clothing
Examples:
Black Diamond Couloir, Petzl Altitude, Petzl Hirundos
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Locking carabiners (2)
Two large, pear-shaped carabiners are best
Examples:
Black Diamond Rock Lock, Petzl William, Petzl Attache
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Belay device (plaquette)
Tube style
Examples:
Black Diamond ATC Guide, Petzl Reverso
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Primary attachment locking carabiner
Triple action locking carabiner
Examples:
Petzl William TriAct
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Ascender (single)
One full-sized ascender with handle for fixed lines (left handed for right handed climbers, or vice-versa)
Examples:
Petzl Ascension
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Crampons w/ anti-balling plate
Steel 12-pont. Must be fit to climbing boots prior to trip, new-matic/hybrid type
Examples:
Black Diamond Sabretooth, Petzl Vasak
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Mountaineering ice axe
under 5’7” use 60cm, 5’7”-6’2” use 60 or 65cm, over 6’2” use 70cm
Examples:
Black Diamond Raven, Petzl Glacier
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Climbing helmet
Lightweight
Examples:
Black Diamond Half Dome, Petzl Elios
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Single length runners (24" or 60cm, 3 total)
Three needed. Be sure to get nylon not dyneema (18mm width)
Examples:
Black Diamond Nylon Slings
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30’ of perlon accessory cord (6mm)
30 feet of 6mm cord
Examples:
Sterling
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Adjustable trekking poles
Three piece poles recommended
Examples:
Black Diamond Trail Back Pole
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Head and Face
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Fleece or wool hat
It must cover the ears
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Shade hat or baseball cap
A visor hat with a good brim is essential for protection from the sun
Examples:
Mountain Madness trucker hat
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Bandanas or neck gaiter
Various uses, i.e. cleaning glasses, sun protection when tied around the neck, etc. We have our own Mountain Madness neck gaiter available for purchase!
Examples:
Mountain Madness neck gaiter
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Balaclava or Buff
A thin balaclava will add significant warmth on that cold summit day
Examples:
Outdoor Research, Marmot
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Facemask
Neoprene or microfleece ski type
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Nose guard
To protect you from the wind and sun
Examples:
Beko
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Glacier glasses
100% UV protection with side shields and a hard-sided storage case
Examples:
Julbo
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Ski goggles
To fit over glacier glasses in high wind. Rose or amber lenses
Examples:
Smith, Oakley
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Hands
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Leather work gloves
One pair lightweight to spare your climbing while doing camp chores
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Liner gloves
Two pairs thin fleece or synthetic
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Softshell gloves
One pair medium-weight for daily wear when it’s not too cold
Examples:
Black Diamond Arc, Arcteryx Zenta LT Glove
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Expedition gloves
Insulated, water resistant shell with leather palms
Examples:
Black Diamond Guide
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Expedition mitts
One pair Gore-Tex or equivalent, with textured palms and taped seams. Synthetic or down filled. Warm, heavy duty for cold temperatures
Examples:
Outdoor Research Altimitt
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Feet
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Thin socks (2 pair)
Two pairs of synthetic or wool socks to wear under heavy wool socks to help prevent blisters and keep feet dry
Examples:
Smartwool or Cool Max
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Thick socks (3 pair)
Three pairs of synthetic or wool socks, medium to heavyweight. Check boot fit with thin and thick socks on
Examples:
Smartwool or Thorlo
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Booties
Synthetic or down to keep feet warm while in tent
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Gaiters
One pair of gaiters made of breathable material; keeps dirt and snow out of boots. Make sure they fit over your boots
Examples:
Outdoor Research Verglas or Crocodiles
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Super-gaiters
These will provide extra warmth and are required if you use plastic mountaineering boots
Examples:
Mountain Tools Climb High
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High-altitude double mountaineering boots (6000m)
Plastic or hybrid rated for 6,000-meter peak climbs or winter mountaineering. If you choose a plastic boot, you must have liner boots that are in new or excellent condition!
Examples:
La Sportiva Spantik or G2 SM
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Light hiking boots or trail shoes
For acclimatization hikes
Examples:
Salomon X-Ultra 3 Mid, Merrell Moab, La Sportiva Boulder Ex
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Upper Body
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Synthetic t-shirts
Two synthetic or merino wool t-shirts. No cotton!
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Long-sleeved Base Layer
Two lightweight to mediumweight, pull-over is best
Examples:
Patagonia Capilene
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Sports bras
Two, synthetic, no cotton!
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Down or synthetic jacket w/hood
This is your most important piece of warm gear and will mean the difference between an enjoyable climb or a miserable one. A warm, full zip jacket with hood is recommended and ideal
Examples:
Helly Hansen Vanir, Feathered Friends Volant, Marmot Guide’s Down Hoody, Outdoor Research Virtuoso Hoody
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Softshell Jacket w/ hood
This is what you will be wearing while hiking at higher altitudes or while kicking around camps at lower altitude. This jacket should be full-zip
Examples:
Outdoor Research Ferrosi
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Hardshell jacket w/ hood
A good jacket made of Gore-Tex (recommended) or waterproof nylon, roomy enough to fit over multiple layers
Examples:
Outdoor Research Foray, Patagonia Triolet
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Expedition down parka w/ hood (Feathered Friends Volant, Marmot Greenland Parka)
This is your most important piece of warm gear and will mean the difference between an enjoyable climb or a miserable one. A warm, full zip jacket with hood is mandatory. It’s important that you jacket is 700+ fill down, baffle construction (not sewn through seams) and as a thick, insulated hood
Examples:
Feathered Friends Volant, Marmot Greenland Parka
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Sun hoody
This piece with a high SPF rating and lightweight fabric offers protection from high altitude sun
Examples:
Outdoor Research
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Lower Body
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Undergarments
Adequate supply for the entire trip
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Long base layer
Two pairs light or mediumweight
Examples:
Patagonia Capilene
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Softshell pants
Softshell pants are water resistant, yet highly breathable and durable. Great for colder conditions over a pair of long underwear or tights higher on the mountain or summit day
Examples:
Outdoor Research Voodoo, Mountain Hardwear Touren, Patagonia Guide
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Hardshell pants
waterproof and breathable with side zips (minimum of ¾ zips recommended) Gore-Tex or equivalent
Examples:
Outdoor Research Furio, Arcteryx Beta AR
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Insulated pants
Synthetic or down with full side zip. Warm insulation for upper mountain
Examples:
Mountain Hardwear Compressor
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Miscellaneous
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Stuff sacks/ditty bags/plastic bags
To organize gear in your duffle and pack. All clothing should be kept dry using waterproof stuff sacks or large heavyweight plastic bags (trash compactor bags work great)
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Toiletries
Toothbrush and paste, comb, tampons, biodegradable soap (small amount), etc. Bring enough for the entire trip
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Toilet paper
1 – 2 rolls stored in a plastic bag
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Sunscreen
Bring plenty of sun block with SPF of 40 or more. It's easy to underestimate the amount necessary for your trip!
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Lip balm
Must have SPF rating of 20 or more. Bring two just in case!
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Ear plugs
To block out snoring and other noise to ensure a good night's sleep
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Water bottles with insulators
Two one-liter wide-mouthed plastic bottles
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Small stainless-steel thermos (optional)
For hot beverages on summit day
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Water purification
Steri Pen, Potable Aqua, Polar Pure crystal iodine. Purifies drinking water while on the trip.
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Water flavoring
Powdered additives like Gatorade or NUUN tablets make treated water taste better
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Large plastic bowl
Bring a 2-4 cup camping bowl or a plastic "Rubbermaid" style container for your mountain dining
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Insulated cup (12-16oz)
A 12-16 oz (350-500 ml) mug with an attached lid will help keep you hydrated
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Lexan spoon or spork
Lightweight and strong
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Headlamp
Bring extra batteries!
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Pocket knife or multitool
Simple Swiss Army type with scissors. Make sure you transport in checked bag, not carry-on!
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Personal first aid and drug kit
small personal first aid kit with ample bandaids and moleskin
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Nausea medications
Pepto Bismol tablets; Maalox, Gelusil M or Mylanta antacid tablets. Donnatal for stomach cramps. Probiotic capsules taken daily may help keep your gastro-intestinal system working smoothly
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Towel
For wash up in camp
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Handi-Wipes
A small pack or two anti-bacterial are great for general hygiene
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Spare contacts and glasses
Contacts can be a problem in dusty conditions, so make sure you have your back-up glasses with you. Glasses wearers should have a spare set
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Snacks (general)
Bring your favorite snacks and power/energy bars or if there is something else you particularly like to eat while hiking and climbing
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Spare bottle for a pee bottle, and a pee funnel (Lady J or Freshette) for women
It can be a cold walk to the toilet at night
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Insect repellent
A must!
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Personal electronics
Phone with camera, and/or separate camera. Bring extra batteries and memory!
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Electronics charging
If you want to charge your electronics along the way, a small, lightweight solar panel to charge batteries or portable charging device may be a good addition
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Travel power adapter
Most come in kits with all the plugs you need. Double-check to make sure you’re taking the correct adapter/plugs
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Travel clothing
Comfortable clothing for travel before and after the expedition
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Book Trip
Pik Lenin
$7,800
23 Days / includes travel time
Minimum 5 participants/ 2023 price subject to change
Elevation
23,406 ft / 7134 m
Route
Normal Route
Guide Ratio
3:1 client to guide ratio
Difficulty
Advanced Beginner
Climbers should have basic snow and ice-climbing skills and should be comfortable with glacier travel, which includes moving in a rope team, self arrest, and basic crevasse rescue. Basic knowledge and experience would be required for objectives with some rock climbing.
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