Manaslu
Expedition to the summit of the 8th Highest Peak in the World!
8,000-meter peak Manaslu, has its name derived from Sanskrit word manasa, meaning “Mountain of the Spirit.” It is the eighth highest peak in the world. Manaslu is found in the Gorkha massif, some 40 miles east of Annapurna. With helicopter access to and from the mountain, the number of days is less than most other expeditions allowing for more time to focus on the climb. For alpine climbers the ascent offers varied terrain, with long ridges, fluted ice faces and valley glacier approaches.
Trip Leader: Himalayan veteran Oswaldo Freire, whose ascents include Manaslu, Everest, Cho Oyu, Lhotse, and difficult first ascents in the Himalaya and Andes. When not on expeditions across the globe, “Ossy” can be found organizing Mountain Madness trips in Ecuador, his home country.
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Trip Perks
The remote location of Manaslu requires that climbers normally make a long approach to the mountain,. With the use of helicopters we are able to reduce the number of days required to do the climb and take a big step to prepare for Everest!
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Description
In west-central Nepal, in the Gorkha Massif of the Mansiri Himal, lies 8,163 meter Manaslu.
First summited in 1956 by a Japanese expedition, Manaslu’s classic NE Face route is characterized by moderate slopes low on the peak with a steep section and fixed ropes leading to high camp. Combined with a relatively shorter distance to the summit from high camp than most other“8000’ers,”and the afore-mentioned lower slopes, makes Manaslu a great first 8000-meter peak for climbers with previous high altitude climbing experience.
The expedition will start in Kathmandu, Nepal. We will meet at our Nepal office to get our paperwork together, organize our gear, and enjoy the local customs & culture of Kathmandu. Once we arrive in basecamp we settle in and organize a Puja Ceremony before the climbing starts. Base Camp will be comfortable with personal tents as well as a heated dining tent, communication, kitchen, storage & toilet tents.
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Qualifications
Climbing 8,000-meter peaks is a serious undertaking for any mountaineer. We require that you have proven high altitude experience, technical proficiency, and the physical fitness to handle the rigors of the ascent. You should be familiar with extreme cold, extended hypoxic conditions, tent living, exposure to steep terrain, and more.
Climbing Manaslu: Prerequisites?
Yes, all climbers are required to have past high-altitude mountaineering experience. In addition, members should be able to ascend and descend fixed lines independently and be proficient with cramponing on steep ice/snow slopes.
An example of sufficient training & experience would include a combination of the following in a logical progression:
- Technical training in the Washington Cascades or international course. Examples: Alpine Ice Course, Ouray Ice Courses, Ecuador Mountaineering Course, or Bolivia Mountaineering Course
- Ascents of 6,000 meter peaks in South America or Asia. Examples: Ecuador Volcanoes, Aconcagua, Chopikalki, Bolivia’s Cordillera Real, Island Peak, or Ama Dablam
- Denali, Mount Logan, or Vinson and/or a 7000 – 8000 meter peak such as Pik Lenin, Nun Peak, or Cho Oyu.
Training for High Altitude Mountaineering
There are many ways to prepare for a big climb such as Manaslu. Regular hiking and climbing of course goes a long ways to get you ready, but for those that do not have easy access to mountains we suggest a variety of activities such as biking, running, or regular gym workouts. Working with a trainer that has experience with high altitude climbing can ensure you are training most effectively for the rigors of 8,000-meter peak climbs. We suggest Lisa Thompson, whose ascents include Everest, K2, and the Seven Summit. You can get free consultation with her at Alpine Athletics.
Have a Question? Contact Us!
Price
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Manaslu
$25,000 – 33 days / Includes Travel time
Minimum 4 climbers
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Single Supplement (I want my own room) – $725
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Price Includes
- Airport Transfers
- 4‑nights Katmandu Hotel on bed & breakfast Basis-Double Room
- Flight from Kathmandu to Samagau and Return from Samagau to Kathmandu by helicopter
- Manaslu expedition permit, National park & TIMS permit
- Stool Shipment Transfer & Garbage Deposit fees
- 3 meals a day in the mountains
- International Air cargo clearance of Member Personal Luggage & Payment of Government taxes
- 1 Government Liaison officer with full equipment, salary, accommodation
- Base camp Cook & kitchen Helper
- Porters
- All Nepali staffs & porters daily wages, equipment, food & clothing
- All Staff Medical & Emergency rescue Insurance
- Included 60 Kg per member for personal baggage
- VE25 North face or Kailas tents for base camp 1 per member
- Base camp foam mattresses, dinning, Kitchen, Toilet & Store tents, hot shower, Tables & chairs & Cooking gears
- Heater for base camp in each Dining Tent
- 1 Solar panel for battery charge and light at base camp for use
- Farewell Dinner in tourist standard restaurant in Kathmandu with Nepalese Staff
- (O2) cylinder: 03 oxygen bottle for each member
- 1 Set of Summit mask & regulator for each member and high-altitude Sherpa
- Satellite Phone /walkie-talkie Phone if necessary
- 1 Climbing Sherpa per expedition team member
- Necessary cooking gas, cooking pot for member, high altitude Sherpa, high altitude tent, high food and fixing gear (C1) (C2) (C3) (C4) Summit
- Manaslu summit certificate on successful climb by government of Nepal
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Price noes not Include
- International Airfare
- Personal Accident, Medical, Evacuation and Trip Interruption Insurance Policy
- Lunch & dinner in Katmandu Hotel stay if more than 4 nights in Kathmandu Hotel
- Personal Equipment
- Personal Expenses Like Laundry, Telephone Calls, Liquor and Beverage Bills. Nepali Visa fee US$ 40 per person for 30 days (to be applied for 60 days (USD$100)
- Sherpa Summit bonus US$1500
- Special Filming, Camera and Drone Permit fee
- Applicable national fees, garbage disposal and local taxes
- Any other item not listed in “cost Includes” Section
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Payment Schedule
- $5,000 deposit upon confirmation of your eligibility to join the expedition, which includes a $3,500 non-refundable registration fee
- Balance due 120 days prior to departure
- The balance may be paid by check, wire transfer, ACH or credit card with a 3% convenience fee
Dates
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Manaslu 2023
- Sep 6, 2023 — Oct 8, 2023
Policies
Cancellation / Refund Policy
- MMI strongly recommends trip cancellation/interruption and evacuation insurance for all trips. Our insurance partner, Ripcord, offers comprehensive travel insurance including trip cancellation, as well as rescue/evacuation policies and can assist in answering any questions. In addition, Participant is expected to have sufficient medical insurance as prescribed by their country of origin. Participant understands that MMI does not include any type of insurance with the cost of the trip.
- If you decide to cancel your trip or change your itinerary, MMI must be notified in writing. Your trip will be cancelled from the date written notice is received. If proper written cancellation notice is not received, amounts paid and reservations made will be forfeited.
- Non-refundable fees may apply for certain trips in order to secure permits and other services. MMI must strictly adhere to cancellation policies outside MMI’s control.
- Due to the personalized service we offer on our trips, MMI reserves the right to waive any fees. We will attempt to accommodate changes and cancellations, waiving certain fees when feasible.
- Circumstances outside the control of MMI and its partners, may require amended cancellation/refund policies. Such circumstances may include, but are not limited to COVID-19, natural disasters, wildfires, terrorism and so forth.
International Trips/Courses:
- Full refund, less the non-refundable registration fee, will be provided 121 days or more before the departure date
- No refunds will be provided 120 days or less before the departure date
Trip Insurance
We strongly recommend the purchase of travel cancellation insurance to protect you from the unexpected. You aren’t likely to think of it now, but people do get ill, break a bone, have a family emergency or get assigned to a last-minute business trip. If you are in remote areas, please note that emergency rescue & evacuation can be very expensive.
We also strongly urge you to consider rescue and evacuation insurance if your own policy does not provide the coverage needed. Services available may include, but are not limited to, helicopter evacuation, medical care, etc.
If you choose not to purchase insurance, you assume full responsibility for any expenses incurred in the event of a medical emergency and/or evacuation, as well as for trip cancellation, interruption, lost luggage, etc. We are not the experts and therefore ask that you please consult our travel insurance partner directly with any specific questions.
To protect against losses due to illness, accident, or other unforeseen circumstances, Mountain Madness strongly recommends the purchase of travel insurance as soon as possible after making a deposit. Mountain Madness has partnered with Redpoint Resolutions as our preferred travel insurance provider. Redpoint’s Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ is designed for adventurers.
For a quote, or to purchase travel insurance, please click this link Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ or call +1 – 415-481‑0600. Pricing varies based on age, trip cost, trip length, and level of coverage.
Critical benefits of Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance include:
- A completely integrated program with a single point of contact for emergency services, travel assistance, and insurance claims
- Evacuation and rescue services from your point of injury or illness to your hospital of choice
- Comprehensive travel insurance for trip cancellation/interruption, primary medical expense coverage, baggage loss or delay, emergency accident and emergency sickness medical expense, emergency dental, accidental death and dismemberment, and more
- Optional security evacuation coverage in case of an unplanned natural disaster or other security events
- Waiver for pre-existing conditions (must be purchased within 14 days of tour deposit)
- Optional “Cancel for Any Reason” coverage (must be purchased within 14 days of tour deposit)
Itinerary
Flight Information
The total number of days for your trip includes all travel to and from your destination, with some exceptions. Dates listed on the website start with your departure date from the US and include the day you arrive home.
For this trip you will need to arrive in Kathmandu, Nepal on Day 3 of the itinerary. You will cross the date line in mid-flight to Asia, thus losing a day. If you are traveling from outside the US. your itinerary may require less time to reach Kathmandu, so all that is required is that you arrive on Day 3 of the itinerary, where Mountain Madness services begin. If you arrive early, we can assist with extra hotel arrangements and activities. Otherwise, you can arrive at any time on Day 3. You will be met at the airport by a Mountain Madness representative and transferred to your hotel.
Manaslu Day by Day
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Day 1-2
Travel
Travel from your home port to Kathmandu. All flights cross the date line and consequently a day is lost. Mountain Madness representatives will meet you at the airport and transport you to your hotel. Optional sightseeing of Kathmandu. Overnight at the hotel
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Day 3
Kathmandu
Elevation: 4,383 ft / 1336 m
Arrive in Kathmandu on Day 3, where a Mountain Madness guide meets you. Great food from all over the world, fabulous shopping, and Durbar Square with its numerous temples and markets are nearby
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Day 4
Kathmandu
Elevation: 4,383 ft / 1336 m
We finalize last minute paperwork with the Nepal and Tibet governments. You will have a casual day shopping for souvenirs in the streets of Kathmandu, with abundant photo opportunities along the way. Visit the palaces, Durbar Square, Hindu temples, shrines, and Buddhist stupas or just relax at the hotel
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Day 5
Sama Gau
Elevation: 12,713 ft / 3875 m
Helicopter Flight from Kathmandu to Sama Gau
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Day 6
Sama Gau
Elevation: 12,713 ft / 3875 m
Rest and Acclimatization day in Sama Gau
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Day 7
Manaslu Base Camp
Elevation: 15,748 ft / 4800 m
Trek from Sama to Manaslu Base Camp
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Day 8-28
Manaslu Climb
Climbing period
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Day 29
Sama Gau
Elevation: 12,713 ft / 3875 m
Trek from Base Camp to Sama Gau
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Day 30
Kathmandu
Elevation: 4,383 ft / 1336 m
Fly back to Kathmandu via helicopter and transfer to hotel
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Day 31
Kathmandu
Elevation: 4,383 ft / 1336 m
Have a day to relax and explore Kathmandu before departure
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Day 32-33
Fly Home
Depart Kathmandu and fly home.
Note on Itinerary: Although we do our very best to follow the schedule listed, this itinerary is subject to change due to inclement weather, unsafe route conditions, or other reasons beyond our control and in the guide’s best judgement.
Equipment for Manaslu
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Carrying Gear
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Summit pack (40L)
Lightweight as possible with a volume approximately 2,500 cubic inches (40 liters)
Examples:
Osprey Mutant 38
Black Diamond Speed 40
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Large capacity climbing pack (65+L)
Lightweight as possible with a volume of 4,000+ cubic inches (65+ liters)
Examples:
Osprey Aether 70, Black Diamond Mission
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Small duffel bag
Large enough to hold everything you’re not taking on the mountain. Will be stored at hotel, to be used after trip
Examples:
Patagonia Black Hole
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2 Large duffel bags
Two at least 7,000 cubic inch capacity (150 liters). Must be durable and waterproof
Examples:
Patagonia Black Hole
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Small padlock for duffel bags
Extra security
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Baggage tags
Makes identifying your bags easy at airports or hotels
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Sleeping Gear
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Expedition quality sleeping bag (-20F/-30C Down or Synthetic)
One down or synthetic bag rated from -20°F / -30°C
Examples:
Feathered Friends Ptarmigan, Marmot Col
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Expedition quality sleeping bag (-40F Down or Synthetic)
One down or synthetic bag rated from -40°F / -40°C
Examples:
Feathered Friends Snow Goose EX, Marmot Cwm
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Sleeping pad (foam)
A foam pad will be provided but a supplemental sleeping pad is advised for warmth and comfort. Closed cell foam 3/4 or full length. This pad is used in conjunction with the first pad
Examples:
Therm-a-rest Ridgerest
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Sleeping pad (inflatable or closed cell foam)
A foam pad will be provided but a supplemental sleeping pad is advised. This can be an inflatable or closed cell foam pad. Make sure to purchase a pad rated for cold conditions.
Examples:
Therm-a-Rest NeoAir & Therm-a-Rest Z Lite Sol
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Climbing Gear
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Alpine climbing harness
Must have adjustable leg loops and fit over all clothing
Examples:
Black Diamond Couloir, Petzl Altitude, Petzl Hirundos
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Mountaineering ice axe
under 5’7” use 60cm, 5’7”-6’2” use 60 or 65cm, over 6’2” use 70cm
Examples:
Black Diamond Raven, Petzl Glacier
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Crampons w/ anti-balling plate
Steel 12-pont. Must be fit to climbing boots prior to trip, new-matic/hybrid type
Examples:
Black Diamond Sabretooth, Petzl Vasak
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Locking carabiners (3)
Three large, pear-shaped carabiners are best
Examples:
Black Diamond Rock Lock, Petzl William, Petzl Attache
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Non-locking carabiners (8)
8 non-locking carabiners. wired straight-gates are recommended
Examples:
Black Diamond HotWire
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Ascenders (Pair)
One full set of ascenders with handles for fixed lines
Examples:
Petzl Ascension
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Belay device (plaquette)
Tube style
Examples:
Black Diamond ATC Guide, Petzl Reverso
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Climbing helmet
Lightweight
Examples:
Black Diamond Half Dome, Petzl Elios
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50’ of perlon accessory cord
Accessory cord, made of nylon, is useful for many purposes on an expedition. You should bring 50 feet of 6mm cord
Examples:
Sterling
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Adjustable trekking poles
Three piece poles recommended
Examples:
Black Diamond Trail Back Pole
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Head and Face
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Fleece or wool hat
It must cover the ears
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Shade hat or baseball cap
A visor hat with a good brim is essential for protection from the sun
Examples:
Mountain Madness trucker hat
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Bandanas or neck gaiter
Various uses, i.e. cleaning glasses, sun protection when tied around the neck, etc. We have our own Mountain Madness neck gaiter available for purchase!
Examples:
Mountain Madness neck gaiter
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Balaclava or Buff
A thin balaclava will add significant warmth on that cold summit day
Examples:
Outdoor Research, Marmot
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Facemask
Neoprene or microfleece ski type
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Nose guard
To protect you from the wind and sun
Examples:
Beko
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Glacier glasses
100% UV protection with side shields and a hard-sided storage case
Examples:
Julbo
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Ski goggles
To fit over glacier glasses in high wind. Rose or amber lenses
Examples:
Smith, Oakley
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Hands
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Leather work gloves
One pair lightweight to spare your climbing while doing camp chores
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Liner gloves
Two pairs thin fleece or synthetic
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Softshell gloves
One pair medium-weight for daily wear when it’s not too cold
Examples:
Black Diamond Arc, Arcteryx Zenta LT Glove
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Expedition gloves
Insulated, water resistant shell with leather palms
Examples:
Black Diamond Guide
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Expedition mitts
One pair Gore-Tex or equivalent, with textured palms and taped seams. Synthetic or down filled. Warm, heavy duty for cold temperatures
Examples:
Outdoor Research Altimitt
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Feet
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Thin socks (6 pair)
Six pairs of synthetic or wool socks to wear under heavy wool socks to help prevent blisters and keep feet dry
Examples:
Smartwool or Cool Max
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Thick socks (6 pair)
Six pairs of synthetic or wool socks, medium to heavyweight. Check boot fit with thin and thick socks on
Examples:
Smartwool or Thorlo
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Booties
Synthetic or down to keep feet warm while in tent
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Camp boot
For warmth and comfort at base camp
Examples:
Sorrel Caribou, Uggs
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High-altitude double mountaineering boots (8000m)
Insulated boots rated for 8,000-meter peak climbs with a warm removable liner and built in, insulated overboot
Examples:
La Sportiva Olympus Mons, Scarpa Phantom 8000
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Light hiking boots or trail shoes
For acclimatization hikes
Examples:
Salomon X-Ultra 3 Mid, Merrell Moab, La Sportiva Boulder Ex
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Upper Body
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Synthetic t-shirts
Two synthetic or merino wool t-shirts. No cotton!
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Sports bras
Two, synthetic, no cotton!
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Long-sleeved Base Layer
Two lightweight to mediumweight, pull-over is best
Examples:
Patagonia Capilene
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Light fleece hoodie
Light or medium-weight fleece (or wool) top with a hood. You will wear this over your light weight base layer
Examples:
Mountain Equipment Eclipse Half-Zip Hoodie
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Softshell Jacket w/ hood
This is what you will be wearing while hiking at higher altitudes or while kicking around camps at lower altitude. This jacket should be full-zip
Examples:
Outdoor Research Ferrosi
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Hardshell jacket w/ hood
A good jacket made of Gore-Tex (recommended) or waterproof nylon, roomy enough to fit over multiple layers
Examples:
Outdoor Research Foray, Patagonia Triolet
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Expedition down parka w/ hood (Feathered Friends Rock and Ice Parka, Marmot 8000 Meter Parka)
This is your most important piece of warm gear and will mean the difference between an enjoyable climb or a miserable one. A warm, full zip jacket with hood is mandatory. It’s important that you jacket is 700+ fill down, baffle construction (not sewn through seams) and as a thick, insulated hood
Examples:
Feathered Friends Rock and Ice Parka, Marmot 8000 Meter Parka
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Expedition down suit
You will be living in this above 7,500 meters!
Examples:
Feathered Friends Expedition Suit, Marmot 8000 Meter Suit
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Sun hoody
This piece with a high SPF rating and lightweight fabric offers protection from high altitude sun
Examples:
Outdoor Research
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Lower Body
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Undergarments
Adequate supply for the entire trip
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Long base layer
Two pairs light or mediumweight
Examples:
Patagonia Capilene
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Softshell pants
Softshell pants are water resistant, yet highly breathable and durable. Great for colder conditions over a pair of long underwear or tights higher on the mountain or summit day
Examples:
Outdoor Research Voodoo, Mountain Hardwear Touren, Patagonia Guide
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Hardshell pants
waterproof and breathable with side zips (minimum of ¾ zips recommended) Gore-Tex or equivalent
Examples:
Outdoor Research Furio, Arcteryx Beta AR
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Insulated pants
Synthetic or down with full side zip. Warm insulation for upper mountain
Examples:
Mountain Hardwear Compressor
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Miscellaneous
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Stuff sacks/ditty bags/plastic bags
To organize gear in your duffle and pack. All clothing should be kept dry using waterproof stuff sacks or large heavyweight plastic bags (trash compactor bags work great)
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Toiletries
Toothbrush and paste, comb, tampons, biodegradable soap (small amount), etc. Bring enough for the entire trip
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Toilet paper
1 – 2 rolls stored in a plastic bag
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Sunscreen
Bring plenty of sun block with SPF of 40 or more. It's easy to underestimate the amount necessary for your trip!
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Lip balm
Must have SPF rating of 20 or more. Bring two just in case!
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Ear plugs
To block out snoring and other noise to ensure a good night's sleep
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Hand and foot warmers
Bring four sets of each
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Water bottles with insulators
Two one-liter wide-mouthed plastic bottles
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Small stainless-steel thermos (optional)
For hot beverages on summit day
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Water purification
Steri Pen, Potable Aqua, Polar Pure crystal iodine. Purifies drinking water while on the trip.
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Water flavoring
Powdered additives like Gatorade or NUUN tablets make treated water taste better
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Large plastic bowl
Bring a 2-4 cup camping bowl or a plastic "Rubbermaid" style container for your mountain dining
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Insulated cup (12-16oz)
A 12-16 oz (350-500 ml) mug with an attached lid will help keep you hydrated
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Lexan spoon or spork
Lightweight and strong
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Headlamp
Bring extra batteries!
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Pocket knife or multitool
Simple Swiss Army type with scissors. Make sure you transport in checked bag, not carry-on!
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Personal first aid and drug kit
small personal first aid kit with ample bandaids and moleskin
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Nausea medications
Pepto Bismol tablets; Maalox, Gelusil M or Mylanta antacid tablets. Donnatal for stomach cramps. Probiotic capsules taken daily may help keep your gastro-intestinal system working smoothly
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Towel
For wash up in camp
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Handi-Wipes
A small pack or two anti-bacterial are great for general hygiene
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Spare contacts and glasses
Contacts can be a problem in dusty conditions, so make sure you have your back-up glasses with you. Glasses wearers should have a spare set
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Snacks (general)
Bring your favorite snacks and power/energy bars or if there is something else you particularly like to eat while hiking and climbing
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Spare bottle for a pee bottle, and a pee funnel (Lady J or Freshette) for women
It can be a cold walk to the toilet at night
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Insect repellent
A must!
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Personal electronics
Phone with camera, and/or separate camera. Bring extra batteries and memory!
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Electronics charging
If you want to charge your electronics along the way, a small, lightweight solar panel to charge batteries or portable charging device may be a good addition
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Travel power adapter
Most come in kits with all the plugs you need. Double-check to make sure you’re taking the correct adapter/plugs
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Travel clothing
Comfortable clothing for travel before and after the expedition
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Book Trip
Manaslu
$25,000
33 days / Includes Travel time
Minimum 4 climbers
Elevation
Manaslu elevation- 8,163m / 26,781 ft
Route
North East Face
Trip Leader
Oswaldo Freire
Guide Ratio
1:1 Sherpa guide to client ratio
4:1 client to lead guide ratio
Difficulty
Advanced Intermediate
Climbers should be comfortable climbing on exposed ridges, 45 to 60 degree snow/ice slopes and/or 5.6+ rock and have a well-rounded past history of climbing experience. Depending on the objective, climbers may need only snow/ice skills or only rock skills; and vice-versa. Some climbs may require both skill sets.
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