Antisana and Illiniza Sur Climbs
Climb with the condors on intermediate alpine ice in Ecuador
Ecuador’s fourth highest peak is seldom visited and offers intermediate level climbers a crowd-free climb through jumbled glaciers, bizarre equatorial ice formations, and a problematic bergschrund near the summit. And of course all the usual goods accompany this expedition — great, certified guides, delicious eats, charming hacienda stays, and the intriguing culture of Ecuador.
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Trip Perks
Your trip to Ecuador begins at the Hacienda Rumiloma. This unique hacienda, run by MM Guide Oswaldo Freire, will help you settle into the Ecuador countryside quite comfortably. Each casita boasts a minimum of 600 square feet and is filled with a unique mix of antiques, art and collectibles from the far corners of Ecuador.
As you travel further into the mountains you’ll stay in some of Ecuador’s distinctive haciendas. Built during the colonial period, these historic settlements offer excellent living and dining accommodations.
When you leave the haciendas for your summit climbs the Mountain Madness philosophy of travelling comfortably goes with you. Although Antisana is infrequently climbed, the access is excellent. With the convenience of car camping, your base camp allows your guides to set up a comfortable kitchen for them to demonstrate the creativity of their cooking skills while you enjoy the tent camp.
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Description
The four distinct peaks of Antisana loom over a diverse landscape of flourishing forests, cascading waterfalls, and exotic wildlife.
Our group acclimates on the well-known Illiniza Sur, itself a worthy objective. On Illiniza Sur climbers will find steep snow and ice up to 50 degrees and an exhilarating summit ridge. The Chimborazo extension* allows acclimatized climbers to ascend Ecuador’s highest peak.
Add in some of the creature comforts of our Ecuador program and you’ll find a fantastic trip complete with challenging climbing, outstanding cuisine, and the intriguing comfort of historic haciendas.
*Alternates if Chimborazo is not in good condition include Cotopaxi, Cayambe, and Carihuairazo.
Have a Question? Contact Us!
Price
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Antisana and Illiniza Sur
$4,275 – 10 Days / Includes travel time
Minimum 3 participants
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Single Supplement (I want my own room) – $550
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Antisana and Illiniza Sur w/Chimborazo
$5,375 – 13 Days / Includes travel time
Minimum 2 participants
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Single Supplement with Chimborazo (I want my own room) – $700
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Price Includes
- Guide(s) and staff
- Climbing permit fees
- Four scheduled hotel nights in Quito(double occupancy)
- One scheduled hacienda nights (double occupancy)
- Scheduled restaurant meals in Quito
- All food while on the climb
- All group climbing gear, tents and cooking gear
- All expedition staff including porters and pack animals
- Airport transfers
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Price Does Not Include
- International airfare
- Ecuador entry visa and airport fees
- Meals Day 1
- Lunch Day 2
- Alcoholic and bottled beverages
- Personal climbing gear and clothing
- Personal expenses (phone calls, laundry, room service, extra hotel nights, extra meals, etc.)
- Travel insurance with trip cancellation, medical and evacuation policy
- All expenses associated with non-scheduled departure
- Guide/Staff gratuities
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Payment Schedule
- $700 deposit at time of registration, which includes a $300 non-refundable registration fee
- Balance due 120 days prior to departure
- The balance may be paid by check, wire transfer, ACH or credit card with a 3% convenience fee
Dates
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Antisana and Illiniza Sur 2024 - early 2025
- Nov 16, 2024 — Nov 25, 2024
- Dec 7, 2024 — Dec 16, 2024
- Jan 11, 2025 — Jan 20, 2025
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w/ Chimborazo Extension 2024 - early 2025
- Nov 16, 2024 — Nov 28, 2024
- Dec 7, 2024 — Dec 19, 2024
- Jan 11, 2025 — Jan 23, 2025
Custom Dates Available — Contact Us
Policies
Cancellation / Refund Policy
- MMI strongly recommends trip cancellation/interruption and evacuation insurance for all trips. Our insurance partner, Ripcord, offers comprehensive travel insurance including trip cancellation, as well as rescue/evacuation policies and can assist in answering any questions. In addition, Participant is expected to have sufficient medical insurance as prescribed by their country of origin. Participant understands that MMI does not include any type of insurance with the cost of the trip.
- If you decide to cancel your trip or change your itinerary, MMI must be notified in writing. Your trip will be cancelled from the date written notice is received. If proper written cancellation notice is not received, amounts paid and reservations made will be forfeited.
- Non-refundable fees may apply for certain trips in order to secure permits and other services. MMI must strictly adhere to cancellation policies outside MMI’s control.
- Due to the personalized service we offer on our trips, MMI reserves the right to waive any fees. We will attempt to accommodate changes and cancellations, waiving certain fees when feasible.
- Circumstances outside the control of MMI and its partners, may require amended cancellation/refund policies. Such circumstances may include, but are not limited to COVID-19, natural disasters, wildfires, terrorism and so forth.
International Trips/Courses:
- Full refund, less the non-refundable registration fee, will be provided 121 days or more before the departure date
- No refunds will be provided 120 days or less before the departure date
Trip Insurance
We strongly recommend the purchase of travel cancellation insurance to protect you from the unexpected. You aren’t likely to think of it now, but people do get ill, break a bone, have a family emergency or get assigned to a last-minute business trip. If you are in remote areas, please note that emergency rescue & evacuation can be very expensive.
We also strongly urge you to consider rescue and evacuation insurance if your own policy does not provide the coverage needed. Services available may include, but are not limited to, helicopter evacuation, medical care, etc.
If you choose not to purchase insurance, you assume full responsibility for any expenses incurred in the event of a medical emergency and/or evacuation, as well as for trip cancellation, interruption, lost luggage, etc. We are not the experts and therefore ask that you please consult our travel insurance partner directly with any specific questions.
To protect against losses due to illness, accident, or other unforeseen circumstances, Mountain Madness strongly recommends the purchase of travel insurance as soon as possible after making a deposit. Mountain Madness has partnered with Redpoint Resolutions as our preferred travel insurance provider. Redpoint’s Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ is designed for adventurers.
For a quote, or to purchase travel insurance, please click this link Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ or call +1 – 415-481‑0600. Pricing varies based on age, trip cost, trip length, and level of coverage.
Critical benefits of Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance include:
- A completely integrated program with a single point of contact for emergency services, travel assistance, and insurance claims
- Evacuation and rescue services from your point of injury or illness to your hospital of choice
- Comprehensive travel insurance for trip cancellation/interruption, primary medical expense coverage, baggage loss or delay, emergency accident and emergency sickness medical expense, emergency dental, accidental death and dismemberment, and more
- Optional security evacuation coverage in case of an unplanned natural disaster or other security events
- Waiver for pre-existing conditions (must be purchased within 14 days of tour deposit)
- Optional “Cancel for Any Reason” coverage (must be purchased within 14 days of tour deposit)
Itinerary
Flight Information
The total number of days for your trip includes all travel to and from your destination, with some exceptions. Dates listed on the website start with a departure date from the U.S. and include the day you arrive home. For this trip you will need to arrive in Quito, Ecuador on Day 1, which in most cases will have arrival times late evening; anywhere from 7 pm to 11:30 pm. You will be met at the airport by a Mountain Madness representative and transferred to your hotel.
Antisana and Illiniza Sur Day by Day
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Day 1
Quito / Hacienda Rumiloma
Elevation: 10,695 ft / 3260 m
Quito is the capital of Ecuador and at 9,400 feet / 2865 meters, we start the process of acclimatization. We will meet you at the airport upon arrival and transfer you to the Hacienda Rumiloma. Most climbers arrive on Day 1 but if you would like some extra time to relax before the climbing starts we can arrange for your early arrival.
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Day 2
Quito / Hacienda Rumiloma
Elevation: 10,695 ft / 3260 m
Following breakfast our group will tour the city of Quito. Known for its colonial era buildings and surrounded by hills and mountains, Quito is recognized as a World Heritage site and was described by UNESCO as, “the best preserved, least altered historic center in Latin America.” We will walk through plazas and courtyards, getting some moderate exercise while continuing to adjust to the altitude as well as becoming acquainted with team members. Following our tour we will have a group meeting to discuss expedition plans and we will make sure that everyone has the correct gear for the trip.
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Day 3
Hacienda Rumiloma
Elevation: 10,695 ft / 3260 m
Today we increase the level of exercise and spend most of the day hiking in the hills above Quito. Typically we hike one of the peaks of Pichincha, which at over 15,000 feet / 4572 meters offers a great view of Quito as well as the volcanic peaks of Cayambe, Cotopaxi and Antisana. Following our hike we descend back to our hotel and prepare for our departure to the mountains tomorrow morning. Overnight at Hacienda Rumiloma.
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Day 4
Illiniza Hut
Elevation: 15,420 ft / 4700 m
Leaving Quito we drive to trailhead for Illiniza Sur and Norte. We will walk to the refugio at 15,000 feet / 4572 meters where we have easy access to both peaks. Remembering that acclimatization is best accomplished with a combination of exercise and rest, along with proper nutrition and hydration, we relax in the afternoon, have a tasty and filling dinner and prepare for tomorrow’s climb.
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Day 5
Illiniza Hut
Elevation: 15,420 ft / 4700 m
Illiniza Norte is a moderate climb and rock scramble. While not technically demanding it does require your attention and at 16,818 ft / 5,126 m is an excellent acclimatization climb. We will get an early start and set a comfortable pace allowing us to summit and descend back to the hut with plenty of time for rest in the afternoon. Great views during the entire climb especially of nearby Illiniza Sur.
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Day 6
Hacienda Carriona
Elevation: 8,294 ft / 2528 m
Illiniza Sur stands 17,267 feet / 5,263 meters high and is very different from nearby Illiniza Norte. Featuring moderately steep snow and ice, glacier travel and rock scrambling this is an interesting and challenging ascent. Following the approach to the route we traverse rock and ice slopes to a rocky couloir which gives access to the glacier and upper-mountain. A series of increasingly steeper ramps on the glacier lead to a rock band and the final slope to the summit. Descend to the hut, then hike to the vehicles and drive to our accommodations at the Hacienda Carriona.
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Day 7
Antisana High Camp
Elevation: 15,420 ft / 4700 m
After a restful night and great food at the Hacienda we head across the valley and into the hills below Antisana. As we drive higher we will observe diverse wildlife including wild horses and condors. Driving as high as possible on rough roads, we set up camp, rest and prepare for our climb.
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Day 8
Antisana Summit / High Camp
Elevation: 15,420 ft / 4700 m
Antisana is a beautiful and remote mountain that is also a moderately technical ascent on steeper glacial slopes. Up very early, we will depart at 1 am and hike up the scree slopes until we arrive at the glacier. Route-finding on the glacier will provide challenges until we arrive at a steep section just below the crater rim. Here we find the most difficult section of the climb — negotiating a large bergschrund that protects the summit. Passing through this last difficulty and arriving on the summit (18,891 ft / 5758 m), our efforts will be rewarded by amazing views of Cotopaxi as well as down to the Upper Amazon basin. Descend to our camp for the night.
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Day 9
Optional Summit Day / Hacienda Rumiloma
Elevation: 10,695 ft / 3260 m
If needed we can make another summit bid this morning. Otherwise, we return to Quito and overnight in Hacienda Rumiloma. For those continuing to Chimborazo, you will stay at a place enroute to Chimborazo.
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Day 10
Fly home or Chimborazo
Elevation: 10,695 ft / 3260 m
Fly home or continue on to Chimborazo.
Chimborazo Extension
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Day 10
Chimborazo Lower Hut
Elevation: 15,748 ft / 4800 m
Drive to lower hut on Chimborazo. Rest and prepare for climb.
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Day 11
Chimborazo High Camp
Elevation: 17,717 ft / 5400 m
Hike to high camp. After an early start we continue up the mountain and place a strategic camp location for the next day’s summit bid. Early to bed.
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Day 12
Chimborazo Summit / Hacienda Rumiloma
Elevation: 10,695 ft / 3260 m
Leaving at midnight we will hike up the scree slopes until reaching the glacier. After a couple of steep sections on the glacier, we will arrive at the false summit. From there it is about an hour climb to the highest point in Ecuador, Chimborazo summit (20,703 ft / 6310 m). After enjoying the views we descend to vehicles and return to Quito and the Hacienda Rumiloma.
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Day 13
Fly Home
Elevation: 10,695 ft / 3260 m
Depart Quito and fly home.
Note on Itinerary: Although we do our very best to follow the schedule listed, this itinerary is subject to change due to inclement weather, unsafe route conditions, or other reasons beyond our control and in the guide’s best judgement.
Equipment for Antisana and Illiniza Sur Climbs
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Carrying Gear
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Summit pack (40-50L)
Lightweight as possible with a volume between 2,500-3,500 cubic inches (40-50 liters) serves most people’s needs well
Examples:
Osprey Mutant 38, Black Diamond Speed 40
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Large duffel bag (150L)
One at least 7,000 cubic inch capacity (150 liters). Must be durable and waterproof
Examples:
Patagonia Black Hole
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Small duffel bag
Large enough to hold everything you’re not taking on the mountain. Will be stored at hotel, to be used after trip
Examples:
Patagonia Black Hole
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Small padlock for duffel bags
Extra security
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Baggage tags
Makes identifying your bags easy at airports or hotels
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Sleeping Gear
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Expedition quality sleeping bag (15-20F)
One down or synthetic bag rated from 15-20°F /-9 to -7°C
Examples:
Marmot Helium, Marmot Trestles, Western Mountaineering Apache, North Face Guide 20
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Sleeping pad (inflatable or closed cell foam)
A foam pad will be provided but a supplemental pad is recommended. This can be an inflatable or closed cell foam pad. Make sure to purchase a pad rated for cold conditions.
Examples:
Therm-a-Rest NeoAir & Therm-a-Rest Z Lite Sol
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Climbing Gear
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Alpine climbing harness
Must have adjustable leg loops and fit over all clothing
Examples:
Black Diamond Couloir, Petzl Altitude, Petzl Hirundos
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Locking carabiners (2)
Two large, pear-shaped carabiners are best
Examples:
Black Diamond Rock Lock, Petzl William, Petzl Attache
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Belay device (plaquette)
Tube style
Examples:
Black Diamond ATC Guide, Petzl Reverso
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Mountaineering ice axe
under 5’7” use 60cm, 5’7”-6’2” use 60 or 65cm, over 6’2” use 70cm
Examples:
Black Diamond Raven, Petzl Glacier
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Crampons w/ anti-balling plate
Steel 12-pont. Must be fit to climbing boots prior to trip, new-matic/hybrid type
Examples:
Black Diamond Sabretooth, Petzl Vasak
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Climbing helmet
Lightweight
Examples:
Black Diamond Half Dome, Petzl Elios
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Double length nylon runner (48" or 120cm)
be sure to get nylon not dyneema (18mm width)
Examples:
Black Diamond Nylon Slings
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Single length runner (24" or 60cm)
be sure to get nylon not dyneema (18mm width)
Examples:
Black Diamond Nylon Slings
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30’ of perlon accessory cord (6mm)
30 feet of 6mm cord
Examples:
Sterling
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Adjustable trekking poles
Three piece poles recommended
Examples:
Black Diamond Trail Back Pole
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Head and Face
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Fleece or wool hat
It must cover the ears
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Shade hat or baseball cap
A visor hat with a good brim is essential for protection from the sun
Examples:
Mountain Madness trucker hat
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Bandanas or neck gaiter
Various uses, i.e. cleaning glasses, sun protection when tied around the neck, etc. We have our own Mountain Madness neck gaiter available for purchase!
Examples:
Mountain Madness neck gaiter
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Balaclava or Buff
A thin balaclava will add significant warmth on that cold summit day
Examples:
Outdoor Research, Marmot
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Glacier glasses
100% UV protection with side shields and a hard-sided storage case
Examples:
Julbo
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Ski goggles
To fit over glacier glasses in high wind. Rose or amber lenses
Examples:
Smith, Oakley
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Hands
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Liner gloves
Two pairs thin fleece or synthetic
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Warm gloves
One pair fleece or wool with water resistant shell
Examples:
Outdoor Research Arete
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Expedition mitts
One pair Gore-Tex or equivalent, with textured palms and taped seams. Synthetic or down filled. Warm, heavy duty for cold temperatures
Examples:
Outdoor Research Altimitt
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Feet
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Thin socks (2 pair)
Two pairs of synthetic or wool socks to wear under heavy wool socks to help prevent blisters and keep feet dry
Examples:
Smartwool or Cool Max
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Thick socks (3 pair)
Three pairs of synthetic or wool socks, medium to heavyweight. Check boot fit with thin and thick socks on
Examples:
Smartwool or Thorlo
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Light hiking boots or trail shoes
For acclimatization hikes
Examples:
Salomon X-Ultra 3 Mid, Merrell Moab, La Sportiva Boulder Ex
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Gaiters SA
Make sure they will fit over boots (if not already integrated in boots)
Examples:
OR Crocodiles or equivalent
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Mountaineering Boots SA
Depending on your future mountaineering endeavors, your boot choice could differ. Boots such as the La Sportiva Spantik,G2 or G6, and Scarpa Phantom 6000 are a good investment for those who are pursuing other high-altitude climbs (such as Aconcagua or Denali). The Koflach Degre would be the choice for those looking for a warm boot in moderate conditions. If you are looking at hybrid leather/plastic boots, make sure it is rated for 6,000-meter peak climbs or winter mountaineering.
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Upper Body
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Synthetic t-shirts
Two synthetic or merino wool t-shirts. No cotton!
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Long-sleeved Base Layer
Two lightweight to mediumweight, pull-over is best
Examples:
Patagonia Capilene
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Sports bras
Two, synthetic, no cotton!
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Softshell Jacket w/ hood
This is what you will be wearing while hiking at higher altitudes or while kicking around camps at lower altitude. This jacket should be full-zip
Examples:
Outdoor Research Ferrosi
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Hardshell jacket w/ hood
A good jacket made of Gore-Tex (recommended) or waterproof nylon, roomy enough to fit over multiple layers
Examples:
Outdoor Research Foray, Patagonia Triolet
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Down or synthetic jacket w/hood
This is your most important piece of warm gear and will mean the difference between an enjoyable climb or a miserable one. A warm, full zip jacket with hood is ideal.
Examples:
Helly Hansen Vanir, Feathered Friends Volant, Marmot Guide’s Down Hoody, Outdoor Research Virtuoso Hoody
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Sun hoody
This piece with a high SPF rating and lightweight fabric offers protection from high altitude sun
Examples:
Outdoor Research
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Lower Body
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Undergarments
Adequate supply for the entire trip
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Long base layer
Two pairs light or mediumweight
Examples:
Patagonia Capilene
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Bathing suit (optional)
lightweight and packable
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Hiking shorts
One pair of quick-drying shorts. Good for hiking at lower elevations on the mountain
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Softshell pants
Softshell pants are water resistant, yet highly breathable and durable. Great for colder conditions over a pair of long underwear or tights higher on the mountain or summit day
Examples:
Outdoor Research Voodoo, Mountain Hardwear Touren, Patagonia Guide
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Hardshell pants
waterproof and breathable with side zips (minimum of ¾ zips recommended) Gore-Tex or equivalent
Examples:
Outdoor Research Furio, Arcteryx Beta AR
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Miscellaneous
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Stuff sacks/ditty bags/plastic bags
To organize gear in your duffle and pack. All clothing should be kept dry using waterproof stuff sacks or large heavyweight plastic bags (trash compactor bags work great)
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Toiletries
Toothbrush and paste, comb, tampons, biodegradable soap (small amount), etc. Bring enough for the entire trip
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Toilet paper
1 – 2 rolls stored in a plastic bag
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Sunscreen
Bring plenty of sun block with SPF of 40 or more. It's easy to underestimate the amount necessary for your trip!
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Lip balm
Must have SPF rating of 20 or more. Bring two just in case!
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Ear plugs
To block out snoring and other noise to ensure a good night's sleep
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Water bottles with insulators
Two one-liter wide-mouthed plastic bottles
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Small stainless-steel thermos (optional)
For hot beverages on summit day
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Water purification
Steri Pen, Potable Aqua, Polar Pure crystal iodine. Purifies drinking water while on the trip.
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Water flavoring
Powdered additives like Gatorade or NUUN are a nice change of pace to water and help replenish much needed electrolytes.
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Headlamp
Bring extra batteries!
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Pocket knife or multitool
Simple Swiss Army type with scissors. Make sure you transport in checked bag, not carry-on!
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Personal first aid and drug kit
small personal first aid kit with ample bandaids and moleskin
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Nausea medications
Pepto Bismol tablets; Maalox, Gelusil M or Mylanta antacid tablets. Donnatal for stomach cramps. Probiotic capsules taken daily may help keep your gastro-intestinal system working smoothly
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Towel
For wash up in camp
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Handi-Wipes
A small pack or two anti-bacterial are great for general hygiene
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Spare contacts and glasses
Contacts can be a problem in dusty conditions, so make sure you have your back-up glasses with you. Glasses wearers should have a spare set
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Snacks (general)
Bring your favorite snacks and power/energy bars or if there is something else you particularly like to eat while hiking and climbing
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Spare bottle for a pee bottle, and a pee funnel (Lady J or Freshette) for women
It can be a cold walk to the toilet at night
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Insect repellent
A must!
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Personal electronics
Phone with camera, and/or separate camera. Bring extra batteries and memory!
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Electronics charging
If you want to charge your electronics along the way, a small, lightweight solar panel to charge batteries or portable charging device may be a good addition
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Travel power adapter
Most come in kits with all the plugs you need. Double-check to make sure you’re taking the correct adapter/plugs
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Travel clothing
Comfortable clothing for travel before and after the expedition
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Book Trip
Antisana and Illiniza Sur
$4,275
10 Days / Includes travel time
Minimum 3 participants
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Book Trip
Antisana and Illiniza Sur w/Chimborazo
$5,375
13 Days / Includes travel time
Minimum 2 participants
Ecuador Volcanoes Peak Elevations
Illiniza Sur 17,267ft / 5263 m
Antisana 18,891 ft / 5758 m
Chimborazo 20,703ft / 6310 m
Route
Normal Route
Client to Guide Ratio
2:1 – 3:1
Difficulty
Intermediate
Climbers should be comfortable on steeper snow/ice slopes up to 45 degrees and some familiarity of climbing with two ice tools. You should have a past climbing experience with proven skills. Previous high altitude experience not required.
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