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- Nov 18, 2010
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The Best Hacienda in Ecuador? — The Answer
We’re back in Seattle – it’s cold and the rain is pounding down outside the Shoofly Pie Shop in West Seattle, close to the MM offices. As winter try’s to push it’s way in early on the last remaining days of summer (up to two feet of new snow in the Cascades!), I’m finally able to find the time to write more about our trip, and answer the question from the last blog; is Zuleta the best hacienda in Ecuador?
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F1.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSqRefj_cgeI%2FAAAAAAAAAe0%2FnMIh8ln3VCk%2Fs320%2FCopy-of-DSC_0200.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=927519d9f31a0607bcbd4437f25227cb 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F1.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSqRefj_cgeI%2FAAAAAAAAAe0%2FnMIh8ln3VCk%2Fs320%2FCopy-of-DSC_0200.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=1f7c22def757cf4b5d394c5a24def717 320w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F1.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSqRefj_cgeI%2FAAAAAAAAAe0%2FnMIh8ln3VCk%2Fs320%2FCopy-of-DSC_0200.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=c7f1c1cfd7219c6e64a78af4b5910031 320w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F1.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSqRefj_cgeI%2FAAAAAAAAAe0%2FnMIh8ln3VCk%2Fs320%2FCopy-of-DSC_0200.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=8767f667ac338a4a0a1c528b8d964e90 320w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F1.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSqRefj_cgeI%2FAAAAAAAAAe0%2FnMIh8ln3VCk%2Fs320%2FCopy-of-DSC_0200.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=ac5e6dc8de370aa576de8717adf0c87a 320w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F1.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSqRefj_cgeI%2FAAAAAAAAAe0%2FnMIh8ln3VCk%2Fs320%2FCopy-of-DSC_0200.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=4fb88cbdaff7636ee042113d211da21f 320w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F1.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSqRefj_cgeI%2FAAAAAAAAAe0%2FnMIh8ln3VCk%2Fs320%2FCopy-of-DSC_0200.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=b0a2968e9d91ce812d9e34c2afb79c47 320w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F1.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSqRefj_cgeI%2FAAAAAAAAAe0%2FnMIh8ln3VCk%2Fs320%2FCopy-of-DSC_0200.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=537045ffd6ff75127cdc2e610bb865cf 320w)
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F1.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSqRefFmOc8I%2FAAAAAAAAAes%2F1-fA_HfyGuM%2Fs320%2FCopy-of-DSC_0178.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=83791949b4fd0d9b98d90b19f6209960 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F1.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSqRefFmOc8I%2FAAAAAAAAAes%2F1-fA_HfyGuM%2Fs320%2FCopy-of-DSC_0178.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=a1052103ece034ce05efa95dd751d8c2 320w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F1.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSqRefFmOc8I%2FAAAAAAAAAes%2F1-fA_HfyGuM%2Fs320%2FCopy-of-DSC_0178.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=d961fdda5bc987d72062b13bac4cff1c 320w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F1.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSqRefFmOc8I%2FAAAAAAAAAes%2F1-fA_HfyGuM%2Fs320%2FCopy-of-DSC_0178.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=e6d2c1591c7e352ea19fb2a5902c6153 320w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F1.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSqRefFmOc8I%2FAAAAAAAAAes%2F1-fA_HfyGuM%2Fs320%2FCopy-of-DSC_0178.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=f3b7e83578d793cadc6352332c786882 320w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F1.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSqRefFmOc8I%2FAAAAAAAAAes%2F1-fA_HfyGuM%2Fs320%2FCopy-of-DSC_0178.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=95f5c0a4dcf276ae624fb6deac484476 320w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F1.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSqRefFmOc8I%2FAAAAAAAAAes%2F1-fA_HfyGuM%2Fs320%2FCopy-of-DSC_0178.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=89be492993aaa9d3992ed0d7c1e33ee3 320w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F1.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSqRefFmOc8I%2FAAAAAAAAAes%2F1-fA_HfyGuM%2Fs320%2FCopy-of-DSC_0178.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=fe0146936d4fc40789a1695950666a83 320w)
The whole family is here to eat pie and talk with Laurel, who recently visited Zuleta and wrote a piece about it in Culture magazine. She mentions that she nearly wept when she first saw the place- it’s that good. And as we share stories she asks Grace what her favorite part about Zuleta was – to which she replies in between bites of hot apple pie, “well, the horseback riding was good,” and she pauses shyly, “but, one morning, really early we got up and walked around the place and we saw horses mating.” We’re of course in stitches as she retells the moment and adds that Fernando’s relative who helps run the stables was there to assist in the process. He explains that this is the very way many a Plaza kid has learned about the birds and the bees, adding to a long list of what must be many traditions here at Zuleta.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F2.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSqRegbtig9I%2FAAAAAAAAAfE%2F83oXryNh3e4%2Fs320%2FDSC_0250.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=3d0e535bfbe3570ca3005cd6472a44fd 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F2.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSqRegbtig9I%2FAAAAAAAAAfE%2F83oXryNh3e4%2Fs320%2FDSC_0250.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=db119a9b4d3dfe7e45cdc232818a5de8 320w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F2.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSqRegbtig9I%2FAAAAAAAAAfE%2F83oXryNh3e4%2Fs320%2FDSC_0250.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=b0bd86360217e6f888fb67da78aec957 320w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F2.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSqRegbtig9I%2FAAAAAAAAAfE%2F83oXryNh3e4%2Fs320%2FDSC_0250.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=c344b78fb7d1ecf0ed02ad1e87eb0526 320w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F2.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSqRegbtig9I%2FAAAAAAAAAfE%2F83oXryNh3e4%2Fs320%2FDSC_0250.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=31db23899f29ba7ebedb3ae3d274ecae 320w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F2.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSqRegbtig9I%2FAAAAAAAAAfE%2F83oXryNh3e4%2Fs320%2FDSC_0250.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=fc32c0abd132806b3f4636bbd400b10e 320w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F2.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSqRegbtig9I%2FAAAAAAAAAfE%2F83oXryNh3e4%2Fs320%2FDSC_0250.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=4b0a78c7e05f2b10e339f3dd66bdd498 320w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F2.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSqRegbtig9I%2FAAAAAAAAAfE%2F83oXryNh3e4%2Fs320%2FDSC_0250.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=1c6449697433b5d22d1ab3353b0abe5f 320w)
I suppose, to a curious 8 year-old mind, that her reply is no surprise, but the possible answers could have included seeing the rare spectacled bear, a moment we even had Fernando beside himself with joy as we all viewed this elusive animal crashing through the heavily vegetated slopes in search of food; or it could have been seeing the wild Andean condor descend from the high thermals to visit the captive Andean condors that Zuleta has and is breeding for release into the wilds; or some Indiana Jones moments when we explored the first of many mounds recently unearthed that contain pre-Inca ruins, another facet of the place that obviously is close to Fernando’s heart as he explained to us the discovery and what it holds of interest for archeologists; or it could have been just being a kid running free, jumping into hay, and just being at a hacienda in Ecuador…,
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F1.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSqRef3Mn2oI%2FAAAAAAAAAe8%2FxpvVtC7o2PY%2Fs320%2FCopy-of-DSC_0238.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=6e4832e34e9e1436ad1e1dfa10dc1d8b 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F1.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSqRef3Mn2oI%2FAAAAAAAAAe8%2FxpvVtC7o2PY%2Fs320%2FCopy-of-DSC_0238.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=1f5a1fbae6d822dbb49d2c1c4e6e747e 320w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F1.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSqRef3Mn2oI%2FAAAAAAAAAe8%2FxpvVtC7o2PY%2Fs320%2FCopy-of-DSC_0238.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=00a400c706b4b36fe152b7b78accd1cc 320w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F1.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSqRef3Mn2oI%2FAAAAAAAAAe8%2FxpvVtC7o2PY%2Fs320%2FCopy-of-DSC_0238.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=7b546bab8138ba727b326bbaacee0d1b 320w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F1.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSqRef3Mn2oI%2FAAAAAAAAAe8%2FxpvVtC7o2PY%2Fs320%2FCopy-of-DSC_0238.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=505c188d53b5d602e4519e9559445cdc 320w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F1.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSqRef3Mn2oI%2FAAAAAAAAAe8%2FxpvVtC7o2PY%2Fs320%2FCopy-of-DSC_0238.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=dcd0cf2322a6343b3492c49ba1f9f76e 320w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F1.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSqRef3Mn2oI%2FAAAAAAAAAe8%2FxpvVtC7o2PY%2Fs320%2FCopy-of-DSC_0238.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=4147b315ad4e0e0c2d3d72a30feb45c8 320w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F1.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSqRef3Mn2oI%2FAAAAAAAAAe8%2FxpvVtC7o2PY%2Fs320%2FCopy-of-DSC_0238.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=e95d5735e3258f097e03e7ec412e8e6c 320w)
So, to answer the question- is Zuleta the best hacienda in Ecuador? – yes, they all have a certain element of charm, but Zuleta’s is unsurpassed.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F3.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSqReehVWUNI%2FAAAAAAAAAek%2FOIF3miYe0Bw%2Fs320%2FCopy-of-DSC_0131.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=b56e660903b2a8163db1c62911d16bab 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F3.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSqReehVWUNI%2FAAAAAAAAAek%2FOIF3miYe0Bw%2Fs320%2FCopy-of-DSC_0131.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=2d0007281a34760f5b22220d9338b416 320w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F3.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSqReehVWUNI%2FAAAAAAAAAek%2FOIF3miYe0Bw%2Fs320%2FCopy-of-DSC_0131.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=4f3ed1962949a1089d7e2b04b83d6296 320w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F3.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSqReehVWUNI%2FAAAAAAAAAek%2FOIF3miYe0Bw%2Fs320%2FCopy-of-DSC_0131.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=1e243cb35840966fc5b900459e9c1dc0 320w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F3.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSqReehVWUNI%2FAAAAAAAAAek%2FOIF3miYe0Bw%2Fs320%2FCopy-of-DSC_0131.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=2f66f11aecee3e775ad7a5ce50213d17 320w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F3.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSqReehVWUNI%2FAAAAAAAAAek%2FOIF3miYe0Bw%2Fs320%2FCopy-of-DSC_0131.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=8ff954d64ed6b2fe9474549e332a6d3c 320w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F3.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSqReehVWUNI%2FAAAAAAAAAek%2FOIF3miYe0Bw%2Fs320%2FCopy-of-DSC_0131.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=368a6b6c2b15bfd622429711bfa5ab63 320w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F3.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FSqReehVWUNI%2FAAAAAAAAAek%2FOIF3miYe0Bw%2Fs320%2FCopy-of-DSC_0131.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=24897a3303cd7609c55c7e4f6c39f4ed 320w)
On the last day of our visit Fernando and I took an early morning drive up in the hills. A casual, friendly wave came from each person we passed walking along the road as we climbed higher and higher to a point we could survey and talk about the options for Mountain Madness groups to come here for trekking – the possibilities are difficult to narrow down as there are so many. But, what comes from the conversation more is seeing a man driven to make good on a vision that includes sustainable tourism, community involvement, and providing some magic to all that visit. What a place!