Monte Rosa Spaghetti Traverse
Abundant Climbing Objectives And Italian Hospitality
Second only in height to Mont Blanc, this majestic mountain rises high above the charming alpine village of Zermatt. The majority of the traverse is in Italy, where you’ll enjoy four huts along the way that provide excellent food (you guessed it — pasta) and a warm bed. With light packs, an abundance of climbing objectives (yes, ten 4000-meter / 13,000-foot peaks are at your fingertips), and Italian hospitality, this trip is perfect for advanced beginner-intermediate level mountaineers looking for a challenging yet decadent climbing vacation.
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Trip Perks
Where else can you find the possibility of climbing more peaks than the number of days your time in the mountains is? Come fit, climb hard, and have a big plate of pasta and some Italian wine at the end of the day.
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Description
This high level traverse includes four nights in huts and a final climb on Monte Rosa, the second highest peak in the Alps. As shown in the itinerary, the option to climb peaks along the way will be determined by the weather, route conditions, and the skill/experience level of the participants.
Routes vary in length and difficulty and type, from easy glacier climbs to mixed rock and ice routes. Days are generally about 5 – 8 hours long and have elevation gains on average of about 600 – 700 meters / 1,969−2297 feet, with one hard day of about 1,400 meters / 4,593 feet of gain. Monte Rosa, the final objective, involves straightforward snow climbing before reaching a section of 5.4−5.6 rock along a ridge to the summit. From the summit, some scrambling down leads to the glacier and the walk back the train and Zermatt.
Whether participants climb all ten peaks, or only a few, it is an amazing traverse with all the creature comforts you can only imagine waiting for you at the end of the day.
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Price
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Monte Rosa Spaghetti Traverse
from $3,650 – 6 Days / In country
- 1:1 - $5,375 per person
- 2:1 - $3,650 per person
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Price Includes
- IFMGA/UIAGM certified guide
- Group gear
- Hut reservation deposit for five nights- Mountain Madness will make reservations for you
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Price Does Not Include
- International airfare
- Hotel and hut accommodations/balance of hut fees
- Gondola fees
- Meals
- Alcoholic and bottled beverages
- Personal climbing gear and clothing
- Personal expenses (phone calls, laundry, room service, extra meals, etc.)
- Travel insurance with trip cancellation, medical and evacuation policy
- All expenses associated with non-scheduled departure
- Guide gratuities
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Payment Schedule
- $700 deposit at time of registration, which includes a $300 non-refundable registration fee
- Balance due 120 days prior to departure
- The balance may be paid by check, wire transfer, ACH or credit card with a 3% convenience fee
Dates
Climb is Arranged on a Custom Basis — Contact Us
Policies
Cancellation / Refund Policy
- MMI strongly recommends trip cancellation/interruption and evacuation insurance for all trips. Our insurance partner, Ripcord, offers comprehensive travel insurance including trip cancellation, as well as rescue/evacuation policies and can assist in answering any questions. In addition, Participant is expected to have sufficient medical insurance as prescribed by their country of origin. Participant understands that MMI does not include any type of insurance with the cost of the trip.
- If you decide to cancel your trip or change your itinerary, MMI must be notified in writing. Your trip will be cancelled from the date written notice is received. If proper written cancellation notice is not received, amounts paid and reservations made will be forfeited.
- Non-refundable fees may apply for certain trips in order to secure permits and other services. MMI must strictly adhere to cancellation policies outside MMI’s control.
- Due to the personalized service we offer on our trips, MMI reserves the right to waive any fees. We will attempt to accommodate changes and cancellations, waiving certain fees when feasible.
- Circumstances outside the control of MMI and its partners, may require amended cancellation/refund policies. Such circumstances may include, but are not limited to COVID-19, natural disasters, wildfires, terrorism and so forth.
International Trips/Courses:
- Full refund, less the non-refundable registration fee, will be provided 121 days or more before the departure date
- No refunds will be provided 120 days or less before the departure date
Trip Insurance
We strongly recommend the purchase of travel cancellation insurance to protect you from the unexpected. You aren’t likely to think of it now, but people do get ill, break a bone, have a family emergency or get assigned to a last-minute business trip. If you are in remote areas, please note that emergency rescue & evacuation can be very expensive.
We also strongly urge you to consider rescue and evacuation insurance if your own policy does not provide the coverage needed. Services available may include, but are not limited to, helicopter evacuation, medical care, etc.
If you choose not to purchase insurance, you assume full responsibility for any expenses incurred in the event of a medical emergency and/or evacuation, as well as for trip cancellation, interruption, lost luggage, etc. We are not the experts and therefore ask that you please consult our travel insurance partner directly with any specific questions.
To protect against losses due to illness, accident, or other unforeseen circumstances, Mountain Madness strongly recommends the purchase of travel insurance as soon as possible after making a deposit. Mountain Madness has partnered with Redpoint Resolutions as our preferred travel insurance provider. Redpoint’s Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ is designed for adventurers.
For a quote, or to purchase travel insurance, please click this link Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ or call +1 – 415-481‑0600. Pricing varies based on age, trip cost, trip length, and level of coverage.
Critical benefits of Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance include:
- A completely integrated program with a single point of contact for emergency services, travel assistance, and insurance claims
- Evacuation and rescue services from your point of injury or illness to your hospital of choice
- Comprehensive travel insurance for trip cancellation/interruption, primary medical expense coverage, baggage loss or delay, emergency accident and emergency sickness medical expense, emergency dental, accidental death and dismemberment, and more
- Optional security evacuation coverage in case of an unplanned natural disaster or other security events
- Waiver for pre-existing conditions (must be purchased within 14 days of tour deposit)
- Optional “Cancel for Any Reason” coverage (must be purchased within 14 days of tour deposit)
Itinerary
Flight Information
Unlike most Mountain Madness international trip itineraries, which include travel time to and from your destination, our Alps schedules begin on the first day of service in country.
You will need to stay at a hotel or hostel of your choice during the trip and need to make these arrangements through your travel agent or on your own. Mountain Madness will reserve huts for your climb, but you will be responsible to pay for them upon arrival to the hut.
Monte Rosa Spaghetti Traverse Day to Day
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Day 1
Ascent of the Breithorn and Descent to Val d’Ayas Hut
Elevation:
Breithorn 4164 m / 13,661 ft
Val d’Ayas Hut 3394 m / 11,135 ftWe take a cable car to the summit of the Klein Matterhorn (3817 m) and then climb the Breithorn. The ascent is easy and allows us to review the mountaineering skills needed to complete the tour (i.e. cramponing, ice axe use, glacier travel, and more). The ascent takes around two hours. We then descend to the Breithorn Plateau and traverse to the Pollux where we evaluate the route for the next day’s ascent. We then travel to the Val d’Ayas Hut where pleasant company and fine Italian cooking await us. The total time of today’s climb and descent is about 4 – 6 hours with about 520 meters of ascent.
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Day 2
Pollux and Castor
Elevation:
Pollux 4099 m / 13,448 ft
Castor 4228 m / 13,871 ftToday we ascend the southwest ridge of Pollux and the west face of Castor before descending to the Quintino Sella Hut (3,585 m). Pollux is technically more interesting than our climb of the Breithorn as it ascends a rocky ridge and involves some moderate scrambling. It is great fun and a tricky rock climbing pitch up high is easily negotiated with the assistance of some well placed chains. The next climb is Castor, which is easier and involves cramponing up moderate snow slopes. From the summit of Castor, we descend the southeast ridge to Felekjoch pass and down further to the Quintino Sella Hut for another pleasant evening. This should take about six to eight hours and involves around 860 meters of ascent.
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Day 3
Balmenhorn and Pyramide Vincent
Elevation:
Balmenhorn 4167 m / 13,671 ft
Pyramide Vincent 4215 m / 13,829 ftFirst we travel around the imposing mountain Lyskamm. This is accomplished by climbing up and over a feature on the south ridge known as the “Naso,” or nose. The climb over the Naso will have us ascending moderate snow slopes and will require efficient use of crampons. This climb is short, though and beyond this the travel is very easy to the Balmenhorn where there sits a bivouac hut and large statue of Christ. From here, easy snow slopes lead to the summit of Piramide Vincent followed by an easy descent to Cittá di Mantova Hut, next stop on the tour of high mountain Italian cooking. A short way above this hut resides the highest chapel in the Alps at 3,611 meters in elevation (I guess you can get a little closer to God). This should see us out for around 6 – 8 hours while ascending about 800 meters.
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Day 4
Schwarzhorn, Ludwigshöhe, Parrotspitze and Signalkuppe
Elevation:
Schwarzhorn 4321 m / 14,177 ft
Ludwigshöhe 4341 m / 14,242 ft
Parrotspitze 4432 m / 14,541 ft
Signalkuppe 4554 m / 14,941 ftPerhaps the most interesting day of the tour if not for the climbing, but for the fact that the hut we are staying in sits atop a peak, the Signalkuppe. It is the highest mountain hut in the Alps and is certainly a very special place. We start out by climbing up to the Schwarzhorn, a small peak not far from yesterday’s climbs. From here, the summit of the strangely named Ludwigshöhe (named after the first ascensionist’s first name) is easily reached by snow slopes. Now we climb a fine snow crest on up to the top of the Parrotspitze in about 1.5 hours from the Ludwigshöhe. An easy walk down snow slopes will get us to the summit of the Signalkuppe, one of the primary summits of the Monte Rosa massif (there are 10). The most distinguishing feature of this summit is the placement of a mountain hut, the Margherita Hut (known to the Italians as the “Capanna Margherita”). This hut, built between 1890 and 1893, was personally opened by Queen Margherita and has been a favorite of alpinists ever since. To see the sunset from this high mountain after a wonderful day’s climb is a truly memorable experience. For many, the night here will be the highlight of the trip. Today’s climbing will take about 7 – 8 hours and involve 1400 meters of ascent.
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Day 5
Ascent of Monte Rosa and descent to Zermatt
Elevation: Monte Rosa Hut 4634 m / 15,203 ft
Yesterday’s hard work will pay off today, as we have a relatively short climb to make to the summit of Monte Rosa. The climb, though short, will be varied and take us over some interesting, rocky terrain. We start by climbing Zumsteinspitze (4563 m), which is an easy snow slope. From here, we descend a narrow snow ridge to the Grenzsattel, which separates Zumsteinspitze from the higher Dufourspitze, which is the highest summit of the Monte Rosa massif and the highest point in Switzerland. We ascend the southeast ridge to the summit and encounter some moderate scrambling and easy rock climbing along the way. It should take about three hours to reach the summit from the Margherita Hut, covering 280 meters. Our descent will be down the normal route on the Monte Rosa glacier which we follow down to the Monte Rosa Hut. Overnight at the hut.
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Day 6
Descent to Zermatt
Elevation: Monte Rosa Hut 4634 m / 15,203 ft
Wake up for breakfast, pack up and head for Zermatt. We descend the Gorner glacier and climb one last, short (215 meters) hill back up to the Rotenboden Station along the Gornergrat railway. We ride the train back to Zermatt where a hotel, warm shower and (yes) more good food awaits. This day should take us about 9 – 10 hours and will involve about 500 meters of ascent.Note on Itinerary: Although we do our very best to follow the schedule listed, this itinerary is subject to change due to inclement weather, unsafe route conditions, or other reasons beyond our control and in the guide’s best judgement.
Equipment for Monte Rosa Spaghetti Traverse
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Carrying Gear
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Summit pack (40-50L)
Lightweight as possible with a volume between 2,500-3,500 cubic inches (40-50 liters) serves most people’s needs well
Examples:
Osprey Mutant 38, Black Diamond Speed 40
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Small duffel bag
Large enough to hold everything you’re not taking on the mountain. Will be stored at hotel, to be used after trip
Examples:
Patagonia Black Hole
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Small padlock for duffel bags
Extra security
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Baggage tags
Makes identifying your bags easy at airports or hotels
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Sleeping Gear
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Sleeping bag liner
Blankets and pads provide by the huts
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Climbing Gear
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Alpine climbing harness
Must have adjustable leg loops and fit over all clothing
Examples:
Black Diamond Couloir, Petzl Altitude, Petzl Hirundos
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Locking carabiners (2)
Two large, pear-shaped carabiners are best
Examples:
Black Diamond Rock Lock, Petzl William, Petzl Attache
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Non-locking carabiners (2)
2 non-locking carabiners. wired straight-gates are recommended
Examples:
Black Diamond HotWire
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Belay device (plaquette)
Tube style
Examples:
Black Diamond ATC Guide, Petzl Reverso
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Mountaineering ice axe
under 5’7” use 60cm, 5’7”-6’2” use 60 or 65cm, over 6’2” use 70cm
Examples:
Black Diamond Raven, Petzl Glacier
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Crampons w/ anti-balling plate
Steel 12-pont. Must be fit to climbing boots prior to trip, new-matic/hybrid type
Examples:
Black Diamond Sabretooth, Petzl Vasak
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Climbing helmet
Lightweight
Examples:
Black Diamond Half Dome, Petzl Elios
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8’ of perlon accessory cord
You should bring 8 feet of 6mm cord for prusik loops
Examples:
Sterling
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18' of perlon accessory cord
You should bring 18 feet of 6mm cord for cordalette
Examples:
Sterling
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Adjustable trekking poles
Three piece poles recommended
Examples:
Black Diamond Trail Back Pole
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Head and Face
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Fleece or wool hat
It must cover the ears
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Shade hat or baseball cap
A visor hat with a good brim is essential for protection from the sun
Examples:
Mountain Madness trucker hat
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Bandanas or neck gaiter
Various uses, i.e. cleaning glasses, sun protection when tied around the neck, etc. We have our own Mountain Madness neck gaiter available for purchase!
Examples:
Mountain Madness neck gaiter
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Balaclava or Buff
A thin balaclava will add significant warmth on that cold summit day
Examples:
Outdoor Research, Marmot
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Glacier glasses
100% UV protection with side shields and a hard-sided storage case
Examples:
Julbo
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Feet
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Thin socks (2 pair)
Two pairs of synthetic or wool socks to wear under heavy wool socks to help prevent blisters and keep feet dry
Examples:
Smartwool or Cool Max
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Thick socks (3 pair)
Three pairs of synthetic or wool socks, medium to heavyweight. Check boot fit with thin and thick socks on
Examples:
Smartwool or Thorlo
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Gaiters
One pair of gaiters made of breathable material; keeps dirt and snow out of boots. Make sure they fit over your boots
Examples:
Outdoor Research Verglas or Crocodiles
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Technical mountaineering boots
Heavyweight and crampon compatible. Plastic boots are an option
Examples:
Scarpa Mt Blanc, Scarpa Phantom Tech, La Sportiva Nepal Evo GTX, Salewa Vulture Vertical GTX
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Rock shoes (optional Cham)
Good to keep your options open as the Chamonix valley is surrounded by world class rock routes
Examples:
La Sportiva Mythos
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Upper Body
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Synthetic t-shirts
Two synthetic or merino wool t-shirts. No cotton!
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Long-sleeved Base Layer
Two lightweight to mediumweight, pull-over is best
Examples:
Patagonia Capilene
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Sports bras
Two, synthetic, no cotton!
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Softshell Jacket w/ hood
This is what you will be wearing while hiking at higher altitudes or while kicking around camps at lower altitude. This jacket should be full-zip
Examples:
Outdoor Research Ferrosi
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Hardshell jacket w/ hood
A good jacket made of Gore-Tex (recommended) or waterproof nylon, roomy enough to fit over multiple layers
Examples:
Outdoor Research Foray, Patagonia Triolet
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Down or synthetic jacket w/hood
This is your most important piece of warm gear and will mean the difference between an enjoyable climb or a miserable one. A warm, full zip jacket with hood is ideal.
Examples:
Helly Hansen Vanir, Feathered Friends Volant, Marmot Guide’s Down Hoody, Outdoor Research Virtuoso Hoody
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Sun hoody
This piece with a high SPF rating and lightweight fabric offers protection from high altitude sun
Examples:
Outdoor Research
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Miscellaneous
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Stuff sacks/ditty bags/plastic bags
To organize gear in your duffle and pack. All clothing should be kept dry using waterproof stuff sacks or large heavyweight plastic bags (trash compactor bags work great)
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Toiletries
Toothbrush and paste, comb, tampons, biodegradable soap (small amount), etc. Bring enough for the entire trip
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Toilet paper
1 – 2 rolls stored in a plastic bag
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Sunscreen
Bring plenty of sun block with SPF of 40 or more. It's easy to underestimate the amount necessary for your trip!
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Lip balm
Must have SPF rating of 20 or more. Bring two just in case!
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Ear plugs
To block out snoring and other noise to ensure a good night's sleep
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Water bottles with insulators
Two one-liter wide-mouthed plastic bottles
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Small stainless-steel thermos (optional)
For hot beverages on summit day
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Water purification
Steri Pen, Potable Aqua, Polar Pure crystal iodine. Purifies drinking water while on the trip.
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Water flavoring
Powdered additives like Gatorade or NUUN are a nice change of pace to water and help replenish much needed electrolytes.
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Headlamp
Bring extra batteries!
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Pocket knife or multitool
Simple Swiss Army type with scissors. Make sure you transport in checked bag, not carry-on!
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Personal first aid and drug kit
small personal first aid kit with ample bandaids and moleskin
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Nausea medications
Pepto Bismol tablets; Maalox, Gelusil M or Mylanta antacid tablets. Donnatal for stomach cramps. Probiotic capsules taken daily may help keep your gastro-intestinal system working smoothly
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Towel
For wash up in camp
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Handi-Wipes
A small pack or two anti-bacterial are great for general hygiene
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Spare contacts and glasses
Contacts can be a problem in dusty conditions, so make sure you have your back-up glasses with you. Glasses wearers should have a spare set
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Snacks (general)
Bring your favorite snacks and power/energy bars or if there is something else you particularly like to eat while hiking and climbing
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Spare bottle for a pee bottle, and a pee funnel (Lady J or Freshette) for women
It can be a cold walk to the toilet at night
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Insect repellent
A must!
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Personal electronics
Phone with camera, and/or separate camera. Bring extra batteries and memory!
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Electronics charging
If you want to charge your electronics along the way, a small, lightweight solar panel to charge batteries or portable charging device may be a good addition
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Travel power adapter
Most come in kits with all the plugs you need. Double-check to make sure you’re taking the correct adapter/plugs
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Travel clothing
Comfortable clothing for travel before and after the expedition
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Book Trip
Monte Rosa Spaghetti Traverse
from $3,650
6 Days / In country
- 1:1 - $5,375 per person
- 2:1 - $3,650 per person
Elevation
15,203 ft / 4634 m
Route
Spaghetti Traverse
Difficulty
Intermediate
Depending on the objective, climbers should be comfortable on steeper snow/ice slopes and/or 5.5-5.7 rock climbing experience. You should have a past climbing experience with proven skills. Certain climbs may require only snow/ice skills, but not require rock skills; and vice-versa.
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