El Altar
Ecuador’s Most Remote, Technical Climb
El Altar is a dream peak with exhilarating climbing opportunities! The native name for this mountain is Capac-Urcu, or “Sublime Mountain,” and for good reason. It features a unique setting, with views of Andean valleys, cloud forests, and active volcanoes. There are also hundreds of lakes, the most famous being Laguna Amarilla, located in the open caldera that is surrounded by El Altar’s nine peaks. It also is home to some of Ecuador’s most technical climbing objectives
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Trip Perks
Watching Andean condors soar above the region and peering thousands of feet down into the massive blown out crater from the summit.
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Description
The highest peak, and your objective, is 17,450-foot / 5319-meter El Obispo. The Italian route offers mid-fifth class rock climbing, snow and ice up to 70 degrees, and a great challenge for intermediate level climbers and mountaineers looking for a high-altitude alpine adventure in the legendary mountains of South America.
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Price
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El Altar
from $4,200 – 9 Days / Includes travel time
- 1:1 - $6,400 per person
- 2:1 - $4,200 per person
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SIngle Supplement (I want my own room) – $550
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Price Includes
- Guide(s) and staff
- Climbing permit fees
- Two scheduled hotel nights in Quito(double occupancy)
- One scheduled hacienda nights (double occupancy)
- Scheduled restaurant meals in Quito
- All food while on the climb
- All group climbing gear, tents and cooking gear
- All expedition staff including porters and pack animals
- Airport transfers
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Price Does Not Include
- International airfare
- Ecuador entry visa and airport fees
- Meals Day 1
- Alcoholic and bottled beverages
- Personal climbing gear and clothing
- Personal expenses (phone calls, laundry, room service, extra hotel nights, extra meals, etc.)
- Travel insurance with trip cancellation, medical and evacuation policy
- All expenses associated with non-scheduled departure
- Guide/Staff gratuities
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Payment Schedule
- $700 deposit at time of registration, which includes a $300 non-refundable registration fee
- Balance due 120 days prior to departure
- The balance may be paid by check, wire transfer, ACH or credit card with a 3% convenience fee
Dates
Climb is Arranged on a Custom Basis — Contact Us
Policies
Cancellation / Refund Policy
- MMI strongly recommends trip cancellation/interruption and evacuation insurance for all trips. Our insurance partner, Ripcord, offers comprehensive travel insurance including trip cancellation, as well as rescue/evacuation policies and can assist in answering any questions. In addition, Participant is expected to have sufficient medical insurance as prescribed by their country of origin. Participant understands that MMI does not include any type of insurance with the cost of the trip.
- If you decide to cancel your trip or change your itinerary, MMI must be notified in writing. Your trip will be cancelled from the date written notice is received. If proper written cancellation notice is not received, amounts paid and reservations made will be forfeited.
- Non-refundable fees may apply for certain trips in order to secure permits and other services. MMI must strictly adhere to cancellation policies outside MMI’s control.
- Due to the personalized service we offer on our trips, MMI reserves the right to waive any fees. We will attempt to accommodate changes and cancellations, waiving certain fees when feasible.
- Circumstances outside the control of MMI and its partners, may require amended cancellation/refund policies. Such circumstances may include, but are not limited to COVID-19, natural disasters, wildfires, terrorism and so forth.
International Trips/Courses:
- Full refund, less the non-refundable registration fee, will be provided 121 days or more before the departure date
- No refunds will be provided 120 days or less before the departure date
Trip Insurance
We strongly recommend the purchase of travel cancellation insurance to protect you from the unexpected. You aren’t likely to think of it now, but people do get ill, break a bone, have a family emergency or get assigned to a last-minute business trip. If you are in remote areas, please note that emergency rescue & evacuation can be very expensive.
We also strongly urge you to consider rescue and evacuation insurance if your own policy does not provide the coverage needed. Services available may include, but are not limited to, helicopter evacuation, medical care, etc.
If you choose not to purchase insurance, you assume full responsibility for any expenses incurred in the event of a medical emergency and/or evacuation, as well as for trip cancellation, interruption, lost luggage, etc. We are not the experts and therefore ask that you please consult our travel insurance partner directly with any specific questions.
To protect against losses due to illness, accident, or other unforeseen circumstances, Mountain Madness strongly recommends the purchase of travel insurance as soon as possible after making a deposit. Mountain Madness has partnered with Redpoint Resolutions as our preferred travel insurance provider. Redpoint’s Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ is designed for adventurers.
For a quote, or to purchase travel insurance, please click this link Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ or call +1 – 415-481‑0600. Pricing varies based on age, trip cost, trip length, and level of coverage.
Critical benefits of Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance include:
- A completely integrated program with a single point of contact for emergency services, travel assistance, and insurance claims
- Evacuation and rescue services from your point of injury or illness to your hospital of choice
- Comprehensive travel insurance for trip cancellation/interruption, primary medical expense coverage, baggage loss or delay, emergency accident and emergency sickness medical expense, emergency dental, accidental death and dismemberment, and more
- Optional security evacuation coverage in case of an unplanned natural disaster or other security events
- Waiver for pre-existing conditions (must be purchased within 14 days of tour deposit)
- Optional “Cancel for Any Reason” coverage (must be purchased within 14 days of tour deposit)
Itinerary
Flight Information
The total number of days for your trip includes all travel to and from your destination, with some exceptions. Dates listed on the website start with a departure date from the U.S. and include the day you arrive home. For this trip you will need to arrive in Quito, Ecuador on Day 1, which in most cases will have arrival times late evening; anywhere from 7 pm to 11:30 pm. You will be met at the airport by a Mountain Madness representative and transferred to your hotel.
El Altar Day by Day
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Day 1
Quito / Hacienda Rumiloma
Elevation: 10,695 ft / 3260 m
Arrive in Quito, spend the night in the Hacienda Rumi Loma.
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Day 2
Quito / Hacienda Rumiloma
Elevation: 10,695 ft / 3260 m
In the morning we’ll do an equipment check and review some basic skills, like rappelling, belaying, and rock climbing. That afternoon, we’ll spend the afternoon acclimatizing with a local hike. We’ll spend the night in a hotel near Quito to help acclimatization.
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Day 3
Hacienda La Cienega
Elevation: 8,530 ft / 2600 m
After an early breakfast, we’ll climb Rucu Pichincha via the Las Agujas Ridge (which includes class 4 scrambling). We’ll spend the night at Hacienda La Cienega.
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Day 4
La Bocatoma de Inquisay
Elevation: 11,485 ft / 3500 m
Today we’ll drive through the scenic Inter-Andean Valley to Chanag, stopping for lunch at Riobamba. That afternoon we’ll get to know our porters for the next day’s approach to Italian Base Camp, and that night we’ll sleep in tents at La Bocatoma de Inquisay.
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Day 5
Italian Base Camp
Elevation: 14,928 ft / 4550 m
We’ll start the day with a three-hour hike to the Negra Paccha Ridge, where we’ll enjoy lunch. That afternoon, we’ll make the last push to the Italian Base Camp, enjoying incredible views of Laguna Mandur, Laguna Azul, Laguna Verde, and Laguna Estrellada.
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Day 6-7
Italian Base Camp
Elevation: 14,928 ft / 4550 m
After an alpine start, we’ll climb snow and ice to the summit of El Obispo, El Atar’s highest peak (17,450 ft / 5319 m). That afternoon, we’ll rappel back to base camp. We’ve built in an extra day here, in case of inclement weather or other difficulties.
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Day 8
After a relaxing breakfast, we’ll hike out and drive back to Quito for our celebration dinner. We’ll overnight at Hacienda Rumiloma.
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Day 9
Fly Home
Elevation: 10,695 ft / 3260 m
Depart Quito and fly home.
Note on Itinerary: Although we do our very best to follow the schedule listed, this itinerary is subject to change due to inclement weather, unsafe route conditions, or other reasons beyond our control and in the guide’s best judgement.
Equipment for El Altar
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Carrying Gear
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Summit pack (40-50L)
Lightweight as possible with a volume between 2,500-3,500 cubic inches (40-50 liters) serves most people’s needs well
Examples:
Osprey Mutant 38, Black Diamond Speed 40
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Large duffel bag (150L)
One at least 7,000 cubic inch capacity (150 liters). Must be durable and waterproof
Examples:
Patagonia Black Hole
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Small duffel bag
Large enough to hold everything you’re not taking on the mountain. Will be stored at hotel, to be used after trip
Examples:
Patagonia Black Hole
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Small padlock for duffel bags
Extra security
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Baggage tags
Makes identifying your bags easy at airports or hotels
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Sleeping Gear
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Expedition quality sleeping bag (15-20F)
One down or synthetic bag rated from 15-20°F /-9 to -7°C
Examples:
Marmot Helium, Marmot Trestles, Western Mountaineering Apache, North Face Guide 20
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Sleeping pad (inflatable or closed cell foam)
A foam pad will be provided but a supplemental pad is recommended. This can be an inflatable or closed cell foam pad. Make sure to purchase a pad rated for cold conditions.
Examples:
Therm-a-Rest NeoAir & Therm-a-Rest Z Lite Sol
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Climbing Gear
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Alpine climbing harness
Must have adjustable leg loops and fit over all clothing
Examples:
Black Diamond Couloir, Petzl Altitude, Petzl Hirundos
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Locking carabiners (2)
Two large, pear-shaped carabiners are best
Examples:
Black Diamond Rock Lock, Petzl William, Petzl Attache
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Non-locking carabiners (4)
4 non-locking carabiners. wired straight-gates are recommended
Examples:
Black Diamond HotWire
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Belay device (plaquette)
Tube style
Examples:
Black Diamond ATC Guide, Petzl Reverso
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Mountaineering ice axe
under 5’7” use 60cm, 5’7”-6’2” use 60 or 65cm, over 6’2” use 70cm
Examples:
Black Diamond Raven, Petzl Glacier
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Hybrid ice tool
lightweight
Examples:
Petzl Gully
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Crampons w/ anti-balling plate
Steel 12-pont. Must be fit to climbing boots prior to trip, new-matic/hybrid type
Examples:
Black Diamond Sabretooth, Petzl Vasak
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Climbing helmet
Lightweight
Examples:
Black Diamond Half Dome, Petzl Elios
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Double length nylon runner (48" or 120cm)
be sure to get nylon not dyneema (18mm width)
Examples:
Black Diamond Nylon Slings
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Single length runner (24" or 60cm)
be sure to get nylon not dyneema (18mm width)
Examples:
Black Diamond Nylon Slings
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30’ of perlon accessory cord (6mm)
30 feet of 6mm cord
Examples:
Sterling
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Adjustable trekking poles
Three piece poles recommended
Examples:
Black Diamond Trail Back Pole
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Head and Face
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Fleece or wool hat
It must cover the ears
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Shade hat or baseball cap
A visor hat with a good brim is essential for protection from the sun
Examples:
Mountain Madness trucker hat
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Bandanas or neck gaiter
Various uses, i.e. cleaning glasses, sun protection when tied around the neck, etc. We have our own Mountain Madness neck gaiter available for purchase!
Examples:
Mountain Madness neck gaiter
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Balaclava or Buff
A thin balaclava will add significant warmth on that cold summit day
Examples:
Outdoor Research, Marmot
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Glacier glasses
100% UV protection with side shields and a hard-sided storage case
Examples:
Julbo
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Ski goggles
To fit over glacier glasses in high wind. Rose or amber lenses
Examples:
Smith, Oakley
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Hands
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Liner gloves
Two pairs thin fleece or synthetic
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Warm gloves
One pair fleece or wool with water resistant shell
Examples:
Outdoor Research Arete
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Expedition mitts
One pair Gore-Tex or equivalent, with textured palms and taped seams. Synthetic or down filled. Warm, heavy duty for cold temperatures
Examples:
Outdoor Research Altimitt
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Feet
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Thin socks (2 pair)
Two pairs of synthetic or wool socks to wear under heavy wool socks to help prevent blisters and keep feet dry
Examples:
Smartwool or Cool Max
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Thick socks (3 pair)
Three pairs of synthetic or wool socks, medium to heavyweight. Check boot fit with thin and thick socks on
Examples:
Smartwool or Thorlo
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Gaiters
One pair of gaiters made of breathable material; keeps dirt and snow out of boots. Make sure they fit over your boots
Examples:
Outdoor Research Verglas or Crocodiles
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Technical mountaineering boots
Heavyweight and crampon compatible. Plastic boots are an option
Examples:
Scarpa Mt Blanc, Scarpa Phantom Tech, La Sportiva Nepal Evo GTX, Salewa Vulture Vertical GTX
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Light hiking boots or trail shoes
For acclimatization hikes
Examples:
Salomon X-Ultra 3 Mid, Merrell Moab, La Sportiva Boulder Ex
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Upper Body
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Synthetic t-shirts
Two synthetic or merino wool t-shirts. No cotton!
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Long-sleeved Base Layer
Two lightweight to mediumweight, pull-over is best
Examples:
Patagonia Capilene
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Sports bras
Two, synthetic, no cotton!
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Softshell Jacket w/ hood
This is what you will be wearing while hiking at higher altitudes or while kicking around camps at lower altitude. This jacket should be full-zip
Examples:
Outdoor Research Ferrosi
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Hardshell jacket w/ hood
A good jacket made of Gore-Tex (recommended) or waterproof nylon, roomy enough to fit over multiple layers
Examples:
Outdoor Research Foray, Patagonia Triolet
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Down or synthetic jacket w/hood
This is your most important piece of warm gear and will mean the difference between an enjoyable climb or a miserable one. A warm, full zip jacket with hood is ideal.
Examples:
Helly Hansen Vanir, Feathered Friends Volant, Marmot Guide’s Down Hoody, Outdoor Research Virtuoso Hoody
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Sun hoody
This piece with a high SPF rating and lightweight fabric offers protection from high altitude sun
Examples:
Outdoor Research
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Lower Body
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Undergarments
Adequate supply for the entire trip
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Hiking shorts
One pair of quick-drying shorts. Good for hiking at lower elevations on the mountain
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Long base layer
Two pairs light or mediumweight
Examples:
Patagonia Capilene
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Softshell pants
Softshell pants are water resistant, yet highly breathable and durable. Great for colder conditions over a pair of long underwear or tights higher on the mountain or summit day
Examples:
Outdoor Research Voodoo, Mountain Hardwear Touren, Patagonia Guide
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Hardshell pants
waterproof and breathable with side zips (minimum of ¾ zips recommended) Gore-Tex or equivalent
Examples:
Outdoor Research Furio, Arcteryx Beta AR
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Miscellaneous
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Stuff sacks/ditty bags/plastic bags
To organize gear in your duffle and pack. All clothing should be kept dry using waterproof stuff sacks or large heavyweight plastic bags (trash compactor bags work great)
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Toiletries
Toothbrush and paste, comb, tampons, biodegradable soap (small amount), etc. Bring enough for the entire trip
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Toilet paper
1 – 2 rolls stored in a plastic bag
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Lip balm
Must have SPF rating of 20 or more. Bring two just in case!
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Sunscreen
Bring plenty of sun block with SPF of 40 or more. It's easy to underestimate the amount necessary for your trip!
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Ear plugs
To block out snoring and other noise to ensure a good night's sleep
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Water bottles with insulators
Two one-liter wide-mouthed plastic bottles
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Small stainless-steel thermos (optional)
For hot beverages on summit day
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Water purification
Steri Pen, Potable Aqua, Polar Pure crystal iodine. Purifies drinking water while on the trip.
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Water flavoring
Powdered additives like Gatorade or NUUN are a nice change of pace to water and help replenish much needed electrolytes.
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Headlamp
Bring extra batteries!
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Pocket knife or multitool
Simple Swiss Army type with scissors. Make sure you transport in checked bag, not carry-on!
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Personal first aid and drug kit
small personal first aid kit with ample bandaids and moleskin
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Nausea medications
Pepto Bismol tablets; Maalox, Gelusil M or Mylanta antacid tablets. Donnatal for stomach cramps. Probiotic capsules taken daily may help keep your gastro-intestinal system working smoothly
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Towel
For wash up in camp
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Handi-Wipes
A small pack or two anti-bacterial are great for general hygiene
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Spare contacts and glasses
Contacts can be a problem in dusty conditions, so make sure you have your back-up glasses with you. Glasses wearers should have a spare set
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Snacks (general)
Bring your favorite snacks and power/energy bars or if there is something else you particularly like to eat while hiking and climbing
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Spare bottle for a pee bottle, and a pee funnel (Lady J or Freshette) for women
It can be a cold walk to the toilet at night
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Insect repellent
A must!
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Personal electronics
Phone with camera, and/or separate camera. Bring extra batteries and memory!
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Electronics charging
If you want to charge your electronics along the way, a small, lightweight solar panel to charge batteries or portable charging device may be a good addition
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Travel power adapter
Most come in kits with all the plugs you need. Double-check to make sure you’re taking the correct adapter/plugs
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Travel clothing
Comfortable clothing for travel before and after the expedition
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Book Trip
El Altar
from $4,200
9 Days / Includes travel time
- 1:1 - $6,400 per person
- 2:1 - $4,200 per person
Elevation
17,450 ft / 5319 m
Route
Italian Route
Guide Ratio
2:1
Difficulty
Advanced Intermediate
Climbers should be comfortable climbing on exposed ridges, 45 to 60 degree snow/ice slopes and/or 5.6+ rock and have a well-rounded past history of climbing experience. Depending on the objective, climbers may need only snow/ice skills or only rock skills; and vice-versa. Some climbs may require both skill sets.
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