Eiger
An incredibly aesthetic route on one of the world’s most storied peaks
The Mittellegi Ridge on the Eiger is a true alpine climbing classic. Though not as famous as its more challenging neighbor, the North Face, the Mittellegi Ridge is a wonderful route on excellent rock. It ascends a tremendously exposed ridge to the summit of one of the most famous mountains in the Alps. This two-day climb makes use of a conveniently located hut perched in an amazingly dramatic position, high along the ridge. Use of this hut allows us to climb relatively unencumbered. The Mittellegi Hut is one of the finest huts found anywhere. Immaculately constructed and well maintained, a night spent here is a real delight.
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Trip Perks
While the Mitteleggi Ridge avoids the infamous north face of the mountain, it’s not hard to imagine the battles that took place there — your birdseye view of the immense face will send chills down your spine as you visualize the epics that happened over the years. Your route however is just pure alpine joy and provides a unique ambience for those that take on the challenge.
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Description
Your itinerary allows you to acclimatize and your guide to assess your skills. The climb can be done in 5 – 7 days, including some warm-up climbs in the Chamonix area. The Mitteleggi Ridge takes two days, but we suggest a minimum of seven days total, which allows for some flexibility with the weather.
Day 1 of the climb is for getting to the hut, which is no simple task. We start out from the valley by cog train and travel through the Eiger as the train tunnels its way towards the Sphinx Station at the Jungfraujoch. After a brief stop at the North Face portal, the train arrives at the Eismeer station, on the south side of the mountain. It is here that we exit the train and our adventure starts.
Upon exiting the small door in the side of the mountain, we begin by traversing the Challifirn glacier for a while, briefly skirting a small sérac zone. We then gain the rocky headwall below the hut. A few pitches of easy-moderate rock climbing (5.5 to 5.6) brings us to a ledge system and a traverse to the ridge, we can scramble up to the ridge crest and the hut. This hut is perched right on the edge of the ridge and slightly overhangs the north side where the distant village of Grindelwald can be seen below.
The following morning we start out before dawn and follow the ridge up to the summit. The climbing is excellent, though never too difficult. There are fixed ropes in a few sections to assist us in the more difficult climbing. The exposure is tremendous here, as the ridge we climb is a rock fin, slicing through the air to the summit of the Eiger. After about 4 – 5 hours we arrive at the summit of the Eiger.
The descent begins down the south ridge. Though relatively straightforward, this descent does involve a lot of scrambling and several rappels. At the base of the ridge we reach the north and south Eigerjochs. These small passes separate the Eiger from the nearby Mönch and must be climbed in order to reach the base of the Mönch. Once here, the going is easy and there is another nice mountain hut where we can take lunch and a short rest.
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Price
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Eiger
$6,200 – 7 Days / In country
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Price Includes
- IFMGA/UIAGM certified guide
- Group gear
- Non-refundable hut reservation for the Mitteleggi Hut- Mountain Madness makes reservation for you
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Price Does not Include
- International airfare
- Hotel and hut accommodations/hut fee balances
- Gondola fees
- Meals
- Alcoholic and bottled beverages
- Personal climbing gear and clothing
- Personal expenses (phone calls, laundry, room service, extra meals, etc.)
- Travel insurance with trip cancellation, medical and evacuation policy
- All expenses associated with non-scheduled departure
- Guide gratuities
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Payment Schedule
- $700 deposit at time of registration, which includes a $300 non-refundable registration fee
- Balance due 120 days prior to departure
- The balance may be paid by check, wire transfer, ACH or credit card with a 3% convenience fee
Dates
Climb is Arranged on a Custom Basis — Contact Us
Policies
Cancellation / Refund Policy
- MMI strongly recommends trip cancellation/interruption and evacuation insurance for all trips. Our insurance partner, Ripcord, offers comprehensive travel insurance including trip cancellation, as well as rescue/evacuation policies and can assist in answering any questions. In addition, Participant is expected to have sufficient medical insurance as prescribed by their country of origin. Participant understands that MMI does not include any type of insurance with the cost of the trip.
- If you decide to cancel your trip or change your itinerary, MMI must be notified in writing. Your trip will be cancelled from the date written notice is received. If proper written cancellation notice is not received, amounts paid and reservations made will be forfeited.
- Non-refundable fees may apply for certain trips in order to secure permits and other services. MMI must strictly adhere to cancellation policies outside MMI’s control.
- Due to the personalized service we offer on our trips, MMI reserves the right to waive any fees. We will attempt to accommodate changes and cancellations, waiving certain fees when feasible.
- Circumstances outside the control of MMI and its partners, may require amended cancellation/refund policies. Such circumstances may include, but are not limited to COVID-19, natural disasters, wildfires, terrorism and so forth.
International Trips/Courses:
- Full refund, less the non-refundable registration fee, will be provided 121 days or more before the departure date
- No refunds will be provided 120 days or less before the departure date
Trip Insurance
We strongly recommend the purchase of travel cancellation insurance to protect you from the unexpected. You aren’t likely to think of it now, but people do get ill, break a bone, have a family emergency or get assigned to a last-minute business trip. If you are in remote areas, please note that emergency rescue & evacuation can be very expensive.
We also strongly urge you to consider rescue and evacuation insurance if your own policy does not provide the coverage needed. Services available may include, but are not limited to, helicopter evacuation, medical care, etc.
If you choose not to purchase insurance, you assume full responsibility for any expenses incurred in the event of a medical emergency and/or evacuation, as well as for trip cancellation, interruption, lost luggage, etc. We are not the experts and therefore ask that you please consult our travel insurance partner directly with any specific questions.
To protect against losses due to illness, accident, or other unforeseen circumstances, Mountain Madness strongly recommends the purchase of travel insurance as soon as possible after making a deposit. Mountain Madness has partnered with Redpoint Resolutions as our preferred travel insurance provider. Redpoint’s Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ is designed for adventurers.
For a quote, or to purchase travel insurance, please click this link Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ or call +1 – 415-481‑0600. Pricing varies based on age, trip cost, trip length, and level of coverage.
Critical benefits of Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance include:
- A completely integrated program with a single point of contact for emergency services, travel assistance, and insurance claims
- Evacuation and rescue services from your point of injury or illness to your hospital of choice
- Comprehensive travel insurance for trip cancellation/interruption, primary medical expense coverage, baggage loss or delay, emergency accident and emergency sickness medical expense, emergency dental, accidental death and dismemberment, and more
- Optional security evacuation coverage in case of an unplanned natural disaster or other security events
- Waiver for pre-existing conditions (must be purchased within 14 days of tour deposit)
- Optional “Cancel for Any Reason” coverage (must be purchased within 14 days of tour deposit)
Itinerary
Flight Info
Unlike most Mountain Madness international trip itineraries, which include travel time to and from your destination, our Alps schedules begin on the first day of service in country.
You will need to stay at a hotel or hostel of your choice during the trip and need to make these arrangements through your travel agent or on your own. Mountain Madness will reserve huts for your climb, but you will be responsible to pay for them upon arrival to the hut.
Eiger Day by Day/ Sample Itinerary
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Day 1
Chamonix/Cosmiques Arête
Meet your guide at your hotel in Chamonix. Ride telepherique to top of Aiguille du Midi, descend for 30 minutes to start of traverse. 4 – 5 hours of moderate and very interesting rock, snow and ice climbing in spectacular setting. Descend to Chamonix. Night in hotel.
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Day 2
Ascend Entreves Traverse
Morning transfer to Courmayeur, then take skyway lift to the Col d’Entreves. The climbing is not too difficult but very exposed. From the summit a series of down climbs and rappels lead to easy scrambling and the col where the route to the Torino Hut is accessed. Night at hut.
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Day 3
Ascend Dent du Geant
Early morning start to climb of Dent du Geant. A mixed snow and rock climb to spectacular summit. Again, the route is moderate in difficulty but exposed. Descend to telepherique station and Chamonix. Hotel night.
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Day 4
Rest/Travel to Grindelwald
Day is reserved for catching up on rest and travel by train to Grindelwald. Hotel night.
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Day 5
Ascent to Mittellegi Hut
This is a short day, and a fun one. We ride the cog train through the Eiger and get off at the Eismeer Station where we exit through a door in the mountain onto the glacier. We traverse the glacier and do a few pitches of rock climbing, followed by more scrambling before arriving at the loftily perched Mittellegi hut. This is a very pleasant place to spend the afternoon relaxing in the sun.
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Day 6
Ascent of the Eiger
We start out before dawn and follow the ridge up to the summit. The climbing is excellent, though never too difficult. There are fixed ropes in a few sections to assist us in the more difficult climbing. After about 4 – 5 hours we arrive at the summit of the Eiger. The descent is down the south ridge to the Mönchsjoch. Night in hut.
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Day 7
Descend to Grindelwald
30 minutes of glacier walking leads to Jungfraujoch station and the train back through the Eiger to Grindelwald. This day can also be used as a summit day if the weather prohits climbing the day before, climbing and reaching Grindelwald in a day. Hotel night.
Note on Itinerary: Be aware that Mother Nature can render the Eiger “out of condition” at any given time. We have designed some flexibility into this schedule and your guide will do their best to try and accommodate this and other possible issues to give you the best chances for achieving your goals.
Equipment for Eiger
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Carrying Gear
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Summit pack (40-50L)
Lightweight as possible with a volume between 2,500-3,500 cubic inches (40-50 liters) serves most people’s needs well
Examples:
Osprey Mutant 38, Black Diamond Speed 40
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Small duffel bag
Large enough to hold everything you’re not taking on the mountain. Will be stored at hotel, to be used after trip
Examples:
Patagonia Black Hole
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Small padlock for duffel bags
Extra security
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Baggage tags
Makes identifying your bags easy at airports or hotels
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Sleeping Gear
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Sleeping bag liner
Blankets and pads provide by the huts
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Climbing Gear
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Alpine climbing harness
Must have adjustable leg loops and fit over all clothing
Examples:
Black Diamond Couloir, Petzl Altitude, Petzl Hirundos
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Locking carabiners (2)
Two large, pear-shaped carabiners are best
Examples:
Black Diamond Rock Lock, Petzl William, Petzl Attache
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Non-locking carabiners (2)
2 non-locking carabiners. wired straight-gates are recommended
Examples:
Black Diamond HotWire
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Belay device (plaquette)
Tube style
Examples:
Black Diamond ATC Guide, Petzl Reverso
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Mountaineering ice axe
under 5’7” use 60cm, 5’7”-6’2” use 60 or 65cm, over 6’2” use 70cm
Examples:
Black Diamond Raven, Petzl Glacier
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Crampons w/ anti-balling plate
Steel 12-pont. Must be fit to climbing boots prior to trip, new-matic/hybrid type
Examples:
Black Diamond Sabretooth, Petzl Vasak
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Climbing helmet
Lightweight
Examples:
Black Diamond Half Dome, Petzl Elios
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Adjustable trekking poles
Three piece poles recommended
Examples:
Black Diamond Trail Back Pole
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Head and Face
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Fleece or wool hat
It must cover the ears
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Shade hat or baseball cap
A visor hat with a good brim is essential for protection from the sun
Examples:
Mountain Madness trucker hat
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Bandanas or neck gaiter
Various uses, i.e. cleaning glasses, sun protection when tied around the neck, etc. We have our own Mountain Madness neck gaiter available for purchase!
Examples:
Mountain Madness neck gaiter
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Balaclava or Buff
A thin balaclava will add significant warmth on that cold summit day
Examples:
Outdoor Research, Marmot
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Glacier glasses
100% UV protection with side shields and a hard-sided storage case
Examples:
Julbo
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Hands
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Liner gloves
Two pairs thin fleece or synthetic
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Softshell gloves
One pair medium-weight for daily wear when it’s not too cold
Examples:
Black Diamond Arc, Arcteryx Zenta LT Glove
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Climbing gloves
A shell system of a fleece liner and waterproof shell that handles cold
Examples:
Outdoor Research Arete
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Feet
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Thin socks (2 pair)
Two pairs of synthetic or wool socks to wear under heavy wool socks to help prevent blisters and keep feet dry
Examples:
Smartwool or Cool Max
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Thick socks (3 pair)
Three pairs of synthetic or wool socks, medium to heavyweight. Check boot fit with thin and thick socks on
Examples:
Smartwool or Thorlo
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Gaiters
One pair of gaiters made of breathable material; keeps dirt and snow out of boots. Make sure they fit over your boots
Examples:
Outdoor Research Verglas or Crocodiles
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Technical mountaineering boots
Heavyweight and crampon compatible. Plastic boots are an option
Examples:
Scarpa Mt Blanc, Scarpa Phantom Tech, La Sportiva Nepal Evo GTX, Salewa Vulture Vertical GTX
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Rock shoes (optional Cham)
Good to keep your options open as the Chamonix valley is surrounded by world class rock routes
Examples:
La Sportiva Mythos
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Upper Body
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Synthetic t-shirts
Two synthetic or merino wool t-shirts. No cotton!
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Long-sleeved Base Layer
Two lightweight to mediumweight, pull-over is best
Examples:
Patagonia Capilene
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Sports bras
Two, synthetic, no cotton!
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Softshell Jacket w/ hood
This is what you will be wearing while hiking at higher altitudes or while kicking around camps at lower altitude. This jacket should be full-zip
Examples:
Outdoor Research Ferrosi
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Hardshell jacket w/ hood
A good jacket made of Gore-Tex (recommended) or waterproof nylon, roomy enough to fit over multiple layers
Examples:
Outdoor Research Foray, Patagonia Triolet
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Down or synthetic jacket w/hood
This is your most important piece of warm gear and will mean the difference between an enjoyable climb or a miserable one. A warm, full zip jacket with hood is ideal.
Examples:
Helly Hansen Vanir, Feathered Friends Volant, Marmot Guide’s Down Hoody, Outdoor Research Virtuoso Hoody
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Sun hoody
This piece with a high SPF rating and lightweight fabric offers protection from high altitude sun
Examples:
Outdoor Research
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Miscellaneous
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Stuff sacks/ditty bags/plastic bags
To organize gear in your duffle and pack. All clothing should be kept dry using waterproof stuff sacks or large heavyweight plastic bags (trash compactor bags work great)
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Toiletries
Toothbrush and paste, comb, tampons, biodegradable soap (small amount), etc. Bring enough for the entire trip
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Toilet paper
1 – 2 rolls stored in a plastic bag
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Sunscreen
Bring plenty of sun block with SPF of 40 or more. It's easy to underestimate the amount necessary for your trip!
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Lip balm
Must have SPF rating of 20 or more. Bring two just in case!
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Water bottles with insulators
Two one-liter wide-mouthed plastic bottles
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Ear plugs
To block out snoring and other noise to ensure a good night's sleep
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Small stainless-steel thermos (optional)
For hot beverages on summit day
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Water purification
Steri Pen, Potable Aqua, Polar Pure crystal iodine. Purifies drinking water while on the trip.
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Water flavoring
Powdered additives like Gatorade or NUUN are a nice change of pace to water and help replenish much needed electrolytes.
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Headlamp
Bring extra batteries!
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Pocket knife or multitool
Simple Swiss Army type with scissors. Make sure you transport in checked bag, not carry-on!
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Personal first aid and drug kit
small personal first aid kit with ample bandaids and moleskin
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Nausea medications
Pepto Bismol tablets; Maalox, Gelusil M or Mylanta antacid tablets. Donnatal for stomach cramps. Probiotic capsules taken daily may help keep your gastro-intestinal system working smoothly
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Towel
For wash up in camp
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Handi-Wipes
A small pack or two anti-bacterial are great for general hygiene
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Spare contacts and glasses
Contacts can be a problem in dusty conditions, so make sure you have your back-up glasses with you. Glasses wearers should have a spare set
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Snacks (general)
Bring your favorite snacks and power/energy bars or if there is something else you particularly like to eat while hiking and climbing
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Spare bottle for a pee bottle, and a pee funnel (Lady J or Freshette) for women
It can be a cold walk to the toilet at night
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Insect repellent
A must!
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Personal electronics
Phone with camera, and/or separate camera. Bring extra batteries and memory!
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Electronics charging
If you want to charge your electronics along the way, a small, lightweight solar panel to charge batteries or portable charging device may be a good addition
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Travel power adapter
Most come in kits with all the plugs you need. Double-check to make sure you’re taking the correct adapter/plugs
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Travel clothing
Comfortable clothing for travel before and after the expedition
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Book Trip
Eiger
$6,200
7 Days / In country
Elevation
13,025 ft / 3970 m
Route
Mittellegi Ridge
Guide Ratio
1:1 Client to Guide Ratio for entire trip
Difficulty
Advanced Intermediate
Climbers should be comfortable climbing on exposed ridges, 45 to 60 degree snow/ice slopes and/or 5.6+ rock and have a well-rounded past history of climbing experience. Depending on the objective, climbers may need only snow/ice skills or only rock skills; and vice-versa. Some climbs may require both skill sets.
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