Mount Triumph
Northeast Ridge
Surrounded by a steep and extremely rugged part of the North Cascades National Park, a climb on Mount Triumph offers one of the best moderate alpine rock routes in Washington State. The Northeast Ridge, first climbed in 1965 by local pioneers Joan and Joe Firey, is a straightforward yet exposed climb on solid Skagit gneiss. Triumph’s proximity, a few miles southwest of the infamous Picket Range, adds to its wonderful ambiance and provides climbers with an amazing backdrop while climbing the Northeast Ridge. The approach is strenuous (part of it on a great trail, the other part via moderate cross-country travel), but certainly worth the effort. This is a fantastic peak that rivals Forbidden or Shuksan but is less traveled and more remote.
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Trip Perks
The bivi site for the climb of Triumph is among the best to be found in the Cascades. You’ll have a defining moment here as you take in the rugged Picket Range, seemingly a stone’s throw away, and stand in awe of the deep valleys sides plunging dramatically to the river thousands of feet below — this is indeed one of North America’s most spectacular, inaccessible ranges and you’ll be overcome by its wildness.
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Description
This is an intermediate level climb. Similar and previous experience is recommended.
This trip involves the following:
- Strenuous approach
- Brief glacier travel
- Rock climbing to 5.7
- Climbers should have the ability to follow 5th class rock with a pack and move steadily for 10 – 12 hours
- Climbers should be in excellent physical condition and competent on alpine rock terrain
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Alpine Climbing Grades
Grade I: Normally requires several hours; can be of any difficulty.
Grade II: Requires half a day; any technical difficulty
Grade III: Requires a day to do the technical portion; any technical difficulty
Grade IV: Requires a full day for the technical portion; the hardest pitch is usually no less than 5.7 (in the YDS rating)
Grade V: Requires a day and a half; the hardest pitch is usually 5.8 or harder
Grade VI: A multi-day excursion with difficult free climbing and/or aid climbing
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Price
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Mount Triumph
from $1,350 – 3 Days
- 1:1 - $1,875 per person
- 2:1 - $1,350 per person
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Price Includes
- All meals while on the mountain
- Tents
- Stoves
- Cook kits
- Group climbing equipment
- Guide services
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Price Does Not Include
- Airfare
- Transportation — Clients will be responsible for their own and the guide’s(s’) transportation for the trip
- All additional fees — Camping, permit, parking, etc.
- Hotel accommodations
- Restaurant meals
- All personal equipment
- Travel insurance with trip cancellation, medical and evacuation policy
- Guide gratuities
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Payment Schedule
- $400 deposit at time of registration, which includes a $200 non-refundable registration fee
- Balance due 90 days prior to departure
- The balance may be paid by check, wire transfer, ACH or credit card with a 3% convenience fee
Dates
Climb is Arranged on a Custom Basis — Contact Us or visit our Custom Trip Page for Pricing
Policies
Cancellation / Refund Policy
- MMI strongly recommends trip cancellation/interruption and evacuation insurance for all trips. Our insurance partner, Ripcord, offers comprehensive travel insurance including trip cancellation, as well as rescue/evacuation policies and can assist in answering any questions. In addition, Participant is expected to have sufficient medical insurance as prescribed by their country of origin. Participant understands that MMI does not include any type of insurance with the cost of the trip.
- If you decide to cancel your trip or change your itinerary, MMI must be notified in writing. Your trip will be cancelled from the date written notice is received. If proper written cancellation notice is not received, amounts paid and reservations made will be forfeited.
- Non-refundable fees may apply for certain trips in order to secure permits and other services. MMI must strictly adhere to cancellation policies outside MMI’s control.
- Due to the personalized service we offer on our trips, MMI reserves the right to waive any fees. We will attempt to accommodate changes and cancellations, waiving certain fees when feasible.
- Circumstances outside the control of MMI and its partners, may require amended cancellation/refund policies. Such circumstances may include, but are not limited to COVID-19, natural disasters, wildfires, terrorism and so forth.
Domestic Trips/Courses:
- Full refund, less the non-refundable registration fee, will be provided 91 days or more before the departure date
- No refunds will be provided 90 days or less before the departure date
Trip Insurance
We strongly recommend the purchase of travel cancellation insurance to protect you from the unexpected. You aren’t likely to think of it now, but people do get ill, break a bone, have a family emergency or get assigned to a last-minute business trip. If you are in remote areas, please note that emergency rescue & evacuation can be very expensive.
We also strongly urge you to consider rescue and evacuation insurance if your own policy does not provide the coverage needed. Services available may include, but are not limited to, helicopter evacuation, medical care, etc.
If you choose not to purchase insurance, you assume full responsibility for any expenses incurred in the event of a medical emergency and/or evacuation, as well as for trip cancellation, interruption, lost luggage, etc. We are not the experts and therefore ask that you please consult our travel insurance partner directly with any specific questions.
To protect against losses due to illness, accident, or other unforeseen circumstances, Mountain Madness strongly recommends the purchase of travel insurance as soon as possible after making a deposit. Mountain Madness has partnered with Redpoint Resolutions as our preferred travel insurance provider. Redpoint’s Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ is designed for adventurers.
For a quote, or to purchase travel insurance, please click this link Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ or call +1 – 415-481‑0600. Pricing varies based on age, trip cost, trip length, and level of coverage.
Critical benefits of Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance include:
- A completely integrated program with a single point of contact for emergency services, travel assistance, and insurance claims
- Evacuation and rescue services from your point of injury or illness to your hospital of choice
- Comprehensive travel insurance for trip cancellation/interruption, primary medical expense coverage, baggage loss or delay, emergency accident and emergency sickness medical expense, emergency dental, accidental death and dismemberment, and more
- Optional security evacuation coverage in case of an unplanned natural disaster or other security events
- Waiver for pre-existing conditions (must be purchased within 14 days of tour deposit)
- Optional “Cancel for Any Reason” coverage (must be purchased within 14 days of tour deposit)
Itinerary
Flight Information
For scheduled courses and climbs, you should fly into Seattle-Tacoma International Airport (SeaTac). You are responsible for your transportation to downtown Seattle. You will meet as a group with your guide(s) early morning on Day 1 for an orientation meeting and equipment check.
Mount Triumph Day by Day
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Day 1
The drive from Seattle to the Thorton Lakes trailhead (2,700 feet) takes about 3.5 hours. The first 2 miles of the hike gain little elevation and offer a chance to warm up for the climb to the ridge crest and pass (4,900 feet) above Thornton Lakes — this is good trail hiking with great blueberries in late summer. From here we descend to the lakes, pick our way through moderate alpine terrain, and climb the final steep 900 foot slope to a col that will be our bivouac for the night. This col, the easiest entry point onto the unnamed pocket glacier on Triumph’s eastern flank, has unparalleled views, as well as good water source.
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Day 2
With a pre-dawn start, we traverse the glacier for 1.5 hours or so before making our way onto the NE Ridge proper. Depending on the season and the year, this traverse can either be easy snow, or rock slabs and a bit of ice. The first few pitches offer very nice, easy face and crack climbing before the features sharpen and the ridge narrows. About two-thirds of the way up, the ridge leads to a small crux tower which offers fun and exhilarating climbing. Once through this step, there is a more classic ridge climbing — the final 200 feet follows third and fourth class to the summit. A series of rappels, lowers, and simultaneous down-climbing lead us back to the base of the ridge. We’ll then reverse the glacier approach back to our bivy at the col.
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Day 3
Most parties find it unreasonable to reverse the approach after the previous day’s climb — hiking out on day 3 makes for a much more doable and enjoyable trip. If energy allows, it is highly recommended to do the short hike from the pass above Thornton Lakes to Trapper Peak. Expect to be back in Seattle by early to mid-afternoon.
Note on Itinerary: Although we do our very best to follow the schedule listed, the very nature of climbing in an alpine environment requires flexibility. This itinerary is subject to change due to inclement weather, unsafe route conditions, and other reasons beyond our control.
Equipment for Mount Triumph
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Carrying Gear
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Alpine Climbing Pack (55-65L)
approx 3500-4000 cubic inch (55 to 65 liters) capacity, avoid unnecessary options that add weight
Examples:
Gregory Alpinisto 50, Black Diamond Speed 55
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Sleeping Gear
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Expedition quality sleeping bag (15-20F)
One down or synthetic bag rated from 15-20°F /-9 to -7°C
Examples:
Marmot Helium, Marmot Trestles, Western Mountaineering Apache, North Face Guide 20
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Sleeping pad (inflatable or closed cell foam)
This can be an inflatable or closed cell foam pad. Make sure to purchase a pad rated for cold conditions.
Examples:
Therm-a-Rest NeoAir & Therm-a-Rest Z Lite Sol
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Climbing Gear
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Alpine climbing harness
Must have adjustable leg loops and fit over all clothing
Examples:
Black Diamond Couloir, Petzl Altitude, Petzl Hirundos
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Locking carabiners (2)
Two large, pear-shaped carabiners are best
Examples:
Black Diamond Rock Lock, Petzl William, Petzl Attache
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Non-locking carabiners (2)
2 non-locking carabiners. wired straight-gates are recommended
Examples:
Black Diamond HotWire
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Mountaineering ice axe
under 5’7” use 60cm, 5’7”-6’2” use 60 or 65cm, over 6’2” use 70cm
Examples:
Black Diamond Raven, Petzl Glacier
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Crampons w/ anti-balling plate
Steel 12-pont. Must be fit to climbing boots prior to trip, new-matic/hybrid type
Examples:
Black Diamond Sabretooth, Petzl Vasak
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4' of perlon accessory cord
4' of perlon accessory cord for prussik materials (6mm diameter)
Examples:
Sterling
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Double length nylon runner (48" or 120cm)
be sure to get nylon not dyneema (18mm width)
Examples:
Black Diamond Nylon Slings
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Climbing helmet
Lightweight
Examples:
Black Diamond Half Dome, Petzl Elios
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Adjustable trekking poles
Three piece poles recommended
Examples:
Black Diamond Trail Back Pole
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Belay device (plaquette)
Tube style
Examples:
Black Diamond ATC Guide, Petzl Reverso
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Head and Face
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Fleece or wool hat
It must cover the ears
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Shade hat or baseball cap
A visor hat with a good brim is essential for protection from the sun
Examples:
Mountain Madness trucker hat
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Glacier glasses
100% UV protection with side shields and a hard-sided storage case
Examples:
Julbo
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Balaclava or neck gaiter (optional)
lightweight
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Hands
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Light weight work gloves
lightweight gloves with leather palm for rope work
Examples:
Black Diamond Transition Glove
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Mid-weight gloves
1-2 pairs
Examples:
Black Diamond Punisher Glove
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Feet
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Liner socks (optional)
1-pair lightweight and thin
Examples:
polypropylene or wool
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Syntheric or wool socks
check boot fir to make sure they work together
Examples:
Smartwool ,Patagonia
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Gaiters (optional)
Check fit with boots
Examples:
Outdoor Research Verglas or Crocodile
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Lightweight mountaineering boot
waterproof and crampon compatible
Examples:
La Sportiva Trango Tower GTX, Scarpa Charmoz, Salewa Crow GTX
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Approach shoes
hiking shoe with climbing specific sticky rubber (route and season dependent)
Examples:
La Sportiva Boulder X, La Sportiva TX3, Scarpa Crux, Scarpa Gecko, 5.10 Guide Tennie
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Rock Shoes
comfortable enough for all-day use
Examples:
La Sportiva Mythos, Scarpa Helix
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Upper Body
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Synthetic t-shirts
Two synthetic or merino wool t-shirts. No cotton!
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Sports bras
Two, synthetic, no cotton!
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Long-sleeved Base Layer
Two lightweight to mediumweight, pull-over is best
Examples:
Patagonia Capilene
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Light weight synthetic jacket
light weight synthetic puffy or fleece
Examples:
Patagonia Nano Puff jacket
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Softshell Jacket w/ hood
This is what you will be wearing while hiking at higher altitudes or while kicking around camps at lower altitude. This jacket should be full-zip
Examples:
Outdoor Research Ferrosi
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Hardshell jacket w/ hood
A good jacket made of Gore-Tex (recommended) or waterproof nylon, roomy enough to fit over multiple layers
Examples:
Outdoor Research Foray, Patagonia Triolet
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Down or synthetic jacket w/hood
This is your most important piece of warm gear and will mean the difference between an enjoyable climb or a miserable one. A warm, full zip jacket with hood is ideal.
Examples:
Helly Hansen Vanir, Feathered Friends Volant, Marmot Guide’s Down Hoody, Outdoor Research Virtuoso Hoody
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Sun hoody
This piece with a high SPF rating and lightweight fabric offers protection from high altitude sun
Examples:
Outdoor Research
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Lower Body
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Long base layer
Two pairs light or mediumweight
Examples:
Patagonia Capilene
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Softshell pants
Softshell pants are water resistant, yet highly breathable and durable. Great for colder conditions over a pair of long underwear or tights higher on the mountain or summit day
Examples:
Outdoor Research Voodoo, Mountain Hardwear Touren, Patagonia Guide
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Hardshell pants
waterproof and breathable with side zips (minimum of ¾ zips recommended) Gore-Tex or equivalent
Examples:
Outdoor Research Furio, Arcteryx Beta AR
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Miscellaneous
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Bear Bag/Bear Canister
Bear bag or bear canister to protect your food from both bears and smaller critters
Examples:
Ursack AllMitey
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Personal first aid kit (NW)
moleskin/blister kit, Band-aids, athletic tape, ibuprofen, personal medications, ect
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Lip balm
Must have SPF rating of 20 or more. Bring two just in case!
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Hand sanitizer
enough to last trip length
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Sunscreen
Bring plenty of sun block with SPF of 40 or more. It's easy to underestimate the amount necessary for your trip!
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Insect repellent
A must!
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Headlamp
Bring extra batteries!
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Water bottles
two 1 liter wide-mouth water bottles
Examples:
Nalgene
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Hydration bladder (optional)
hydration bladder or water bag with drinking tube (must also have 1 Nalgene Bottle or equivalent)
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Water purification (NW)
Purifies drinking water while on the climb
Examples:
Steri Pen, water filter, Potable Aqua, Polar Pure crystal iodine
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Large plastic bowl
Bring a 2-4 cup camping bowl or a plastic "Rubbermaid" style container for your mountain dining
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Insulated cup (12-16oz)
A 12-16 oz (350-500 ml) mug with an attached lid will help keep you hydrated
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Lexan spoon or spork
Lightweight and strong
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Pocket knife or multitool
Simple Swiss Army type with scissors. Make sure you transport in checked bag, not carry-on!
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Toiletry kit (NW)
toilet paper stored in double zip lock bags
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Nylon stuff sacks
for food and gear storage, large ziplocs are useful
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Large plastic bags
heavy duty trash compactor bags recommended
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Bandana (optional)
lightweight
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Snacks (general)
Bring your favorite snacks and power/energy bars or if there is something else you particularly like to eat while hiking and climbing
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Camera (optional)
or any sort of device that takes pictures
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Soap, shampoo, towel (optional)
for use at campground showers when on itinerary
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Travel clothing
Comfortable clothing for travel before and after the expedition
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Book Trip
Mount Triumph
from $1,350
3 Days
- 1:1 - $1,875 per person
- 2:1 - $1,350 per person
Elevation
7,292 ft / 2223 m
Route
Northeast Ridge
Grade
III 5.7
Difficulty
Intermediate
Depending on the objective, climbers should be comfortable on steeper snow/ice slopes and/or 5.5-5.7 rock climbing experience. You should have a past climbing experience with proven skills. Certain climbs may require only snow/ice skills, but not require rock skills; and vice-versa.
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