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- Nov 18, 2010
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Mt. Triumph Northeast Buttress and Liberty Bell Mountain Beckey Route
During the last week of July I dusted off my old guiding skills and headed for the hills! Now spending more of my time in the office it felt good to bust out one of the North Cascade’s classic alpine rock climbs. Joining me was Gordon Smith, whom over the years I journeyed to the volcanoes of Ecuador, to climb a bunch of alpine climbs in the Cascades, and to Russia in 1990 to climb Mt. Elbrus and 23,000ft.+ Pik Lenin, a trip that coincidentally happened during the collapse of the Soviet Union.
The friendship and stories were all familiar, from crashing through brush in the dark after getting up the infrequently climbed northeast face of Mt. Stuart to those interesting times when the USSR was fragmenting and finding a scrap of food in Moscow was one of the biggest challenges of the trip. But our choice of climbs for this outing was not so familiar. I had not been up the beautiful northeast ridge of Triumph and was as excited as Gordo as we began our walk along the old road bed up to Thorton Lakes. Gordo had made a special request to get “beat up” a bit, something these days I seem more to be on the receiving end than otherwise being as busy as I am with raising two daughters and keeping the Madness on course. Our plan to climb Triumph followed by some Washington Pass alpine rock seemed just the ticket for a good ol Cascades challenge.
It was as good a trip we could have hoped for; from the beautiful hike through old growth forests on the way to Thorton Lakes, some great low to mid-fifth class rock in an unsurpassed North Cascades setting, to the immense feeling of satisfaction of getting back to camp after a perfect 15-hour day on Triumph. I think the photos tell it all:
Thorton Lake with Triumph in the background
Triumph
Triumph with easy glacier approach shown
The elegant northeast ridge — climbing is 4th class with some mid-fifth class along the way
Triumph with easy glacier approach shown
The most stunning campsite in the North Cascades?
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F4.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FTGLWkezSrcI%2FAAAAAAAABEM%2FPQPzYdY5Oaw%2Fs320%2F7DSCN0035.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=fd33808365fa685ada174d442c28a1e4 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F4.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FTGLWkezSrcI%2FAAAAAAAABEM%2FPQPzYdY5Oaw%2Fs320%2F7DSCN0035.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=6764cf42046bbd7c3eadccc14d9e7d73 320w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F4.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FTGLWkezSrcI%2FAAAAAAAABEM%2FPQPzYdY5Oaw%2Fs320%2F7DSCN0035.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=9f9326e64dc7d3c068eeda4d9ab6009f 320w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F4.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FTGLWkezSrcI%2FAAAAAAAABEM%2FPQPzYdY5Oaw%2Fs320%2F7DSCN0035.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=4700286de17c1aa192eb0250df5b331b 320w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F4.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FTGLWkezSrcI%2FAAAAAAAABEM%2FPQPzYdY5Oaw%2Fs320%2F7DSCN0035.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=de3a57e38057ffaca0455577a0dba648 320w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F4.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FTGLWkezSrcI%2FAAAAAAAABEM%2FPQPzYdY5Oaw%2Fs320%2F7DSCN0035.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=e6f66aff3f786f5ae1a7685da9d520c3 320w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F4.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FTGLWkezSrcI%2FAAAAAAAABEM%2FPQPzYdY5Oaw%2Fs320%2F7DSCN0035.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=1fe7d9132d75f360169c559c8ac7c418 320w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F4.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FTGLWkezSrcI%2FAAAAAAAABEM%2FPQPzYdY5Oaw%2Fs320%2F7DSCN0035.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=8596c92d2eb36c42658129647c241a4e 320w)
The approach to the ridge
Three climbers in the bottom right approaching Triumph
Along the spiny crest of the route- lots of exposure on moderate terrain
Solid rock along the crest
The Pickets, one of the most inaccessible places in the lower 48
Some of the best climbing in the Cascades if you can get there!
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F2.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FTGLXso47Y9I%2FAAAAAAAABFE%2FTSWBluWN1Sg%2Fs320%2FDSCN0044.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=977119658590fcd708b946fab423bc76 240w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F2.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FTGLXso47Y9I%2FAAAAAAAABFE%2FTSWBluWN1Sg%2Fs320%2FDSCN0044.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=08f271959176ca279ea9e889140bef46 240w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F2.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FTGLXso47Y9I%2FAAAAAAAABFE%2FTSWBluWN1Sg%2Fs320%2FDSCN0044.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=11fb1e4c716d07888b9cd8b075d6cb10 240w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F2.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FTGLXso47Y9I%2FAAAAAAAABFE%2FTSWBluWN1Sg%2Fs320%2FDSCN0044.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=19fcf7fb2e5f947cffdfd9aa0865f3a3 240w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F2.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FTGLXso47Y9I%2FAAAAAAAABFE%2FTSWBluWN1Sg%2Fs320%2FDSCN0044.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=a8e9c61932789cda4063fefa98efe662 240w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F2.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FTGLXso47Y9I%2FAAAAAAAABFE%2FTSWBluWN1Sg%2Fs320%2FDSCN0044.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=d2f592e5e0b2349f3efcde38a58f4354 240w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F2.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FTGLXso47Y9I%2FAAAAAAAABFE%2FTSWBluWN1Sg%2Fs320%2FDSCN0044.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=20b6dea36b5318e6223ed6b3d003e960 240w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F2.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FTGLXso47Y9I%2FAAAAAAAABFE%2FTSWBluWN1Sg%2Fs320%2FDSCN0044.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=3023fbdcf7d3255e0e7f3bb84ab9906f 240w)
The crux pitch, a nice 5.7 crack that can be avoided at 5.5 on the left
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F1.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FTGLX3ryKAcI%2FAAAAAAAABFM%2F0ToiynIxnEA%2Fs320%2FDSCN0051.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=1a591f5e875984a1f15a9741b09f4bc9 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F1.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FTGLX3ryKAcI%2FAAAAAAAABFM%2F0ToiynIxnEA%2Fs320%2FDSCN0051.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=6e3b215766fffc71bf966c6332497449 320w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F1.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FTGLX3ryKAcI%2FAAAAAAAABFM%2F0ToiynIxnEA%2Fs320%2FDSCN0051.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=35b7f8a07945cffdb8c4fb4ed0fbce5e 320w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F1.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FTGLX3ryKAcI%2FAAAAAAAABFM%2F0ToiynIxnEA%2Fs320%2FDSCN0051.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=cbb8104c84b246ecaa6c92eb539bbd45 320w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F1.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FTGLX3ryKAcI%2FAAAAAAAABFM%2F0ToiynIxnEA%2Fs320%2FDSCN0051.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=aedaa7651618b60f20e15c5000e9a012 320w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F1.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FTGLX3ryKAcI%2FAAAAAAAABFM%2F0ToiynIxnEA%2Fs320%2FDSCN0051.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=39cc808fa38049a5449e03cbc83df511 320w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F1.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FTGLX3ryKAcI%2FAAAAAAAABFM%2F0ToiynIxnEA%2Fs320%2FDSCN0051.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=021344e3d83ad8fbf7b239a9bfe403ca 320w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F1.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FTGLX3ryKAcI%2FAAAAAAAABFM%2F0ToiynIxnEA%2Fs320%2FDSCN0051.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=2e4cdc76753d0883e0b4bef9995780b6 320w)
More airy, but easy climbing
On the summit of maybe the best view to be had in the North Cascades!
Gordon on the summit
The Liberty Bell Massif
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F3.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FTGLYyqaIDmI%2FAAAAAAAABF0%2F9BiMbxcWZEk%2Fs320%2FDSCN0072.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=f89075b248a07797e3cfa10de1878429 240w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F3.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FTGLYyqaIDmI%2FAAAAAAAABF0%2F9BiMbxcWZEk%2Fs320%2FDSCN0072.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=8ece889af530c1d4e0e953f0cb1c331b 240w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F3.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FTGLYyqaIDmI%2FAAAAAAAABF0%2F9BiMbxcWZEk%2Fs320%2FDSCN0072.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=b280ac616b9c3e6af22150a1074aef2d 240w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F3.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FTGLYyqaIDmI%2FAAAAAAAABF0%2F9BiMbxcWZEk%2Fs320%2FDSCN0072.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=248392d2c51ebb5c925c795eb5d3db04 240w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F3.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FTGLYyqaIDmI%2FAAAAAAAABF0%2F9BiMbxcWZEk%2Fs320%2FDSCN0072.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=4e3f33fc6cc7158a9ca8c4c5f83c164c 240w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F3.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FTGLYyqaIDmI%2FAAAAAAAABF0%2F9BiMbxcWZEk%2Fs320%2FDSCN0072.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=8445862ee33e895e5b9d8ffeef43b2aa 240w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F3.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FTGLYyqaIDmI%2FAAAAAAAABF0%2F9BiMbxcWZEk%2Fs320%2FDSCN0072.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=3cc365652ca682bafb65b6ffaf077220 240w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F3.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FTGLYyqaIDmI%2FAAAAAAAABF0%2F9BiMbxcWZEk%2Fs320%2FDSCN0072.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=2938625bba68ebe0edd4d61a8b2acee6 240w)
Starting the first pitch of the Beckey route on Liberty Bell
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F4.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FTGLY5ViOP8I%2FAAAAAAAABF8%2FV1SRhe3SbzY%2Fs320%2FDSCN0077.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=77e5b7a194f85b95445e95ff5b1c804f 240w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F4.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FTGLY5ViOP8I%2FAAAAAAAABF8%2FV1SRhe3SbzY%2Fs320%2FDSCN0077.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=a280a9041ce25e2271e048fc8e3c3349 240w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F4.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FTGLY5ViOP8I%2FAAAAAAAABF8%2FV1SRhe3SbzY%2Fs320%2FDSCN0077.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=75402ffaf0db7b5e0ad747e75b64d0a5 240w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F4.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FTGLY5ViOP8I%2FAAAAAAAABF8%2FV1SRhe3SbzY%2Fs320%2FDSCN0077.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=0811c32da34851527387997e661586cb 240w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F4.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FTGLY5ViOP8I%2FAAAAAAAABF8%2FV1SRhe3SbzY%2Fs320%2FDSCN0077.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=01f7be1511925e55cbdc3c62b814ca23 240w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F4.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FTGLY5ViOP8I%2FAAAAAAAABF8%2FV1SRhe3SbzY%2Fs320%2FDSCN0077.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=6f1063121262d85be8cf7d19403971a8 240w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F4.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FTGLY5ViOP8I%2FAAAAAAAABF8%2FV1SRhe3SbzY%2Fs320%2FDSCN0077.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=c62c5d719a7bbba91a43d5b6b65c0490 240w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F4.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FTGLY5ViOP8I%2FAAAAAAAABF8%2FV1SRhe3SbzY%2Fs320%2FDSCN0077.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=a9fb32ef6bfab6c82987ad39b773b76f 240w)
Solid anchors the whole way
Top of pitch 1
Great crack climbing on pitch 3
Downward bound and the race to beat the afternoon t‑storm
~ MM President/Owner Mark Gunlogson