Mount Stuart North Ridge
Famous for a reason
As one of the famed “Fifty Classic Climbs in North America,” the North Ridge has unrivaled alpine ambiance, solid granite, and continuously engaging climbing. Considered by many to be one of the premier alpine rock climbs in Washington State, this route on 9,415-foot / 2870-meter Mount Stuart offers intermediate-level climbers a chance to hone their skills and ability to move fast and light through varied alpine rock terrain. The option to include the upper north ridge is available for strong climbers and classic!
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Trip Perks
It’s already been said, but the solid rock and alpine ambience of this one can’t be beat. And if you end up in the Bavarian-themed town after the climb, the beer and brats are pretty darn good!
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Description
Mount Stuart holds its own in the rankings of iconic Cascade peaks — its’ northern flank among the most rugged in the range. A worthy goal in its own right, it also is a stepping stone for bigger alpine routes in the world’s most respected ranges of the Himalayas, the Andes, and the Alps.
This is an intermediate level climb. Similar and previous experience is required.
This climb involves the following:
- Moderately long approach
- Brief glacier crossing
- Rock climbing to 5.7−5.9
- Climbers should have the ability to follow sustained 5th class rock with a medium-weight pack and move steadily for 10 – 12 hours
- Taxing and long descent of over 5000 feet
- Climbers should be in excellent physical condition and very competent on alpine rock terrain
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Alpine Climbing Grades
Grade I: Normally requires several hours; can be of any difficulty
Grade II: Requires half a day; any technical difficulty
Grade III: Requires a day to do the technical portion; any technical difficulty
Grade IV: Requires a full day for the technical portion; the hardest pitch is usually no less than 5.7 (in the YDS rating)
Grade V: Requires a day and a half; the hardest pitch is usually 5.8 or harder
Grade VI: A multi-day excursion with difficult free climbing and/or aid climbing
Have a Question? Contact Us!
Price
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Mount Stuart North Ridge
from $1,350 – 3 Days
- 1:1 - $1,875 per person
- 2:1 - $1,350 per person
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Price Includes
- Ground transportation
- All meals while on the mountain
- Tents
- Stoves
- Cook kits
- Group climbing equipment
- Guide services
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Price Does Not Include
- Airfare
- Transportation within Seattle
- Hotel accommodations
- Restaurant meals
- All personal equipment
- Travel insurance with trip cancellation, medical and evacuation policy
- Guide gratuities
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Payment Schedule
- $400 deposit at time of registration, which includes a $200 non-refundable registration fee
- Balance due 90 days prior to departure
- The balance can be paid by check, wire transfer, ACH or credit card with a 3% convenience fee
Dates
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Mount Stuart North Ridge 2024
- Jun 19, 2024 — Jun 21, 2024
- Jul 3, 2024 — Jul 5, 2024
- Jul 24, 2024 — Jul 26, 2024
- Aug 21, 2024 — Aug 23, 2024
- Aug 28, 2024 — Aug 30, 2024
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Mount Stuart North Ridge 2025
- Jun 18, 2025 — Jun 20, 2025
- Jul 2, 2025 — Jul 4, 2025
- Jul 23, 2025 — Jul 25, 2025
- Aug 20, 2025 — Aug 22, 2025
- Aug 27, 2025 — Aug 29, 2025
Custom Dates Available — Contact Us
Policies
Cancellation / Refund Policy
- MMI strongly recommends trip cancellation/interruption and evacuation insurance for all trips. Our insurance partner, Ripcord, offers comprehensive travel insurance including trip cancellation, as well as rescue/evacuation policies and can assist in answering any questions. In addition, Participant is expected to have sufficient medical insurance as prescribed by their country of origin. Participant understands that MMI does not include any type of insurance with the cost of the trip.
- If you decide to cancel your trip or change your itinerary, MMI must be notified in writing. Your trip will be cancelled from the date written notice is received. If proper written cancellation notice is not received, amounts paid and reservations made will be forfeited.
- Non-refundable fees may apply for certain trips in order to secure permits and other services. MMI must strictly adhere to cancellation policies outside MMI’s control.
- Due to the personalized service we offer on our trips, MMI reserves the right to waive any fees. We will attempt to accommodate changes and cancellations, waiving certain fees when feasible.
- Circumstances outside the control of MMI and its partners, may require amended cancellation/refund policies. Such circumstances may include, but are not limited to COVID-19, natural disasters, wildfires, terrorism and so forth.
Domestic Trips/Courses:
- Full refund, less the non-refundable registration fee, will be provided 91 days or more before the departure date
- No refunds will be provided 90 days or less before the departure date
Trip Insurance
We strongly recommend the purchase of travel cancellation insurance to protect you from the unexpected. You aren’t likely to think of it now, but people do get ill, break a bone, have a family emergency or get assigned to a last-minute business trip. If you are in remote areas, please note that emergency rescue & evacuation can be very expensive.
We also strongly urge you to consider rescue and evacuation insurance if your own policy does not provide the coverage needed. Services available may include, but are not limited to, helicopter evacuation, medical care, etc.
If you choose not to purchase insurance, you assume full responsibility for any expenses incurred in the event of a medical emergency and/or evacuation, as well as for trip cancellation, interruption, lost luggage, etc. We are not the experts and therefore ask that you please consult our travel insurance partner directly with any specific questions.
To protect against losses due to illness, accident, or other unforeseen circumstances, Mountain Madness strongly recommends the purchase of travel insurance as soon as possible after making a deposit. Mountain Madness has partnered with Redpoint Resolutions as our preferred travel insurance provider. Redpoint’s Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ is designed for adventurers.
For a quote, or to purchase travel insurance, please click this link Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ or call +1 – 415-481‑0600. Pricing varies based on age, trip cost, trip length, and level of coverage.
Critical benefits of Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance include:
- A completely integrated program with a single point of contact for emergency services, travel assistance, and insurance claims
- Evacuation and rescue services from your point of injury or illness to your hospital of choice
- Comprehensive travel insurance for trip cancellation/interruption, primary medical expense coverage, baggage loss or delay, emergency accident and emergency sickness medical expense, emergency dental, accidental death and dismemberment, and more
- Optional security evacuation coverage in case of an unplanned natural disaster or other security events
- Waiver for pre-existing conditions (must be purchased within 14 days of tour deposit)
- Optional “Cancel for Any Reason” coverage (must be purchased within 14 days of tour deposit)
Itinerary
Flight Information
For scheduled courses and climbs, you should fly into Seattle-Tacoma International Airport (SeaTac). You are responsible for your transportation to downtown Seattle. You will meet as a group with your guide(s) early morning on Day 1 for an orientation meeting and equipment check.
Mount Stuart North Ridge Day by Day
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Day 1
After a quick orientation and equipment check at a local gear shop, we drive from Seattle to the Teanaway River and the Ingalls Lake trailhead (4,200 ft / 1280 m). Approximate drive time is 2.5 hours. The hike to our camp at Goat Pass, takes about 5 – 6 hours and strategically positions us at the start of the short glacier crossing that gains the upper North Ridge Route.
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Day 2
The day begins early with an alpine start. Depending on conditions and the pace, it takes from 6 to 8 hours to reach the summit — a bit more if the harder gendarme pitches are climbed. Descent is made down the south side of the peak via the Cascadian Couloir. Camp that night will be made in the pleasant river valley of Ingalls Creek.
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Day 3
Our final day is used breaking down camp and traveling over Long’s Pass back to the Ingalls Lake trailhead and our vehicle. We should be back to the vehicle by noon and in Seattle mid-late afternoon.
Note on Itinerary: Although we do our very best to follow the schedule listed, the very nature of climbing in an alpine environment requires flexibility. This itinerary is subject to change due to inclement weather, unsafe route conditions, and other reasons beyond our control.
Equipment for Mount Stuart North Ridge
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Carrying Gear
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Alpine Climbing Pack (55-65L)
approx 3500-4000 cubic inch (55 to 65 liters) capacity, avoid unnecessary options that add weight
Examples:
Gregory Alpinisto 50, Black Diamond Speed 55
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Sleeping Gear
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Expedition quality sleeping bag (15-20F)
One down or synthetic bag rated from 15-20°F /-9 to -7°C
Examples:
Marmot Helium, Marmot Trestles, Western Mountaineering Apache, North Face Guide 20
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Sleeping pad (inflatable or closed cell foam)
A foam pad will be provided but a supplemental pad is recommended. This can be an inflatable or closed cell foam pad. Make sure to purchase a pad rated for cold conditions.
Examples:
Therm-a-Rest NeoAir & Therm-a-Rest Z Lite Sol
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Bivy sack
light weight, waterproof/breathable
Examples:
Outdoor Research Alpine Bivy, OR Helium
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Climbing Gear
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Rock climbing harness
comfortable and padded
Examples:
Petzl Adjama, Black Diamond Momentum
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Locking carabiners (2)
Two large, pear-shaped carabiners are best
Examples:
Black Diamond Rock Lock, Petzl William, Petzl Attache
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Non-locking carabiners (2)
2 non-locking carabiners. wired straight-gates are recommended
Examples:
Black Diamond HotWire
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Mountaineering ice axe (early season - contact for details)
under 5’7” use 60cm, 5’7”-6’2” use 60 or 65cm, over 6’2” use 70cm
Examples:
Black Diamond Raven, Petzl Glacier
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Crampons w/ anti-balling plate (early season - contact for details)
Steel 12-pont. Must be fit to climbing boots prior to trip, new-matic/hybrid type
Examples:
Black Diamond Sabretooth, Petzl Vasak
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Climbing helmet
Lightweight
Examples:
Black Diamond Half Dome, Petzl Elios
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4' of perlon accessory cord
4' of perlon accessory cord for prussik materials (6mm diameter)
Examples:
Sterling
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Double length nylon runner (48" or 120cm)
be sure to get nylon not dyneema (18mm width)
Examples:
Black Diamond Nylon Slings
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Adjustable trekking poles
Three piece poles recommended
Examples:
Black Diamond Trail Back Pole
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Chalk bag (optional)
optional but nice for rock climbs when the temps are warm
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Belay device (plaquette)
Tube style
Examples:
Black Diamond ATC Guide, Petzl Reverso
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Head and Face
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Fleece or wool hat
It must cover the ears
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Sunglasses
Essential eye protection whether in the tropics or by the water. Look for 100% UVA/UVB protection. Consider bringing a spare pair
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Shade hat or baseball cap
A visor hat with a good brim is essential for protection from the sun
Examples:
Mountain Madness trucker hat
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Balaclava or neck gaiter (optional)
lightweight
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Feet
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Liner socks (optional)
1-pair lightweight and thin
Examples:
polypropylene or wool
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Syntheric or wool socks
check boot fir to make sure they work together
Examples:
Smartwool ,Patagonia
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Gaiters (optional)
Check fit with boots
Examples:
Outdoor Research Verglas or Crocodile
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Lightweight mountaineering boot
waterproof and crampon compatible
Examples:
La Sportiva Trango Tower GTX, Scarpa Charmoz, Salewa Crow GTX
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Approach shoes
hiking shoe with climbing specific sticky rubber (route and season dependent)
Examples:
La Sportiva Boulder X, La Sportiva TX3, Scarpa Crux, Scarpa Gecko, 5.10 Guide Tennie
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Rock Shoes
comfortable enough for all-day use
Examples:
La Sportiva Mythos, Scarpa Helix
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Upper Body
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Synthetic t-shirts
Two synthetic or merino wool t-shirts. No cotton!
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Sports bras
Two, synthetic, no cotton!
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Long-sleeved Base Layer
Two lightweight to mediumweight, pull-over is best
Examples:
Patagonia Capilene
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Light weight synthetic jacket
light weight synthetic puffy or fleece
Examples:
Patagonia Nano Puff jacket
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Softshell Jacket w/ hood
This is what you will be wearing while hiking at higher altitudes or while kicking around camps at lower altitude. This jacket should be full-zip
Examples:
Outdoor Research Ferrosi
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Hardshell jacket w/ hood
A good jacket made of Gore-Tex (recommended) or waterproof nylon, roomy enough to fit over multiple layers
Examples:
Outdoor Research Foray, Patagonia Triolet
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Down or synthetic jacket w/hood
This is your most important piece of warm gear and will mean the difference between an enjoyable climb or a miserable one. A warm, full zip jacket with hood is ideal.
Examples:
Helly Hansen Vanir, Feathered Friends Volant, Marmot Guide’s Down Hoody, Outdoor Research Virtuoso Hoody
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Sun hoody
This piece with a high SPF rating and lightweight fabric offers protection from high altitude sun
Examples:
Outdoor Research
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Lower Body
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Long base layer
Two pairs light or mediumweight
Examples:
Patagonia Capilene
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Softshell pants
Softshell pants are water resistant, yet highly breathable and durable. Great for colder conditions over a pair of long underwear or tights higher on the mountain or summit day
Examples:
Outdoor Research Voodoo, Mountain Hardwear Touren, Patagonia Guide
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Hardshell pants
waterproof and breathable with side zips (minimum of ¾ zips recommended) Gore-Tex or equivalent
Examples:
Outdoor Research Furio, Arcteryx Beta AR
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Miscellaneous
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Bear Bag/Bear Canister
Bear bag or bear canister to protect your food from both bears and smaller critters
Examples:
Ursack AllMitey, BearVault,
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Personal first aid kit (NW)
moleskin/blister kit, Band-aids, athletic tape, ibuprofen, personal medications, ect
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Lip balm
Must have SPF rating of 20 or more. Bring two just in case!
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Sunscreen
Bring plenty of sun block with SPF of 40 or more. It's easy to underestimate the amount necessary for your trip!
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Hand sanitizer
enough to last trip length
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Insect repellent
A must!
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Headlamp
Bring extra batteries!
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Water bottles
two 1 liter wide-mouth water bottles
Examples:
Nalgene
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Hydration bladder (optional)
hydration bladder or water bag with drinking tube (must also have 1 Nalgene Bottle or equivalent)
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Water purification (NW)
Purifies drinking water while on the climb
Examples:
Steri Pen, water filter, Potable Aqua, Polar Pure crystal iodine
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Large plastic bowl
Bring a 2-4 cup camping bowl or a plastic "Rubbermaid" style container for your mountain dining
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Lexan spoon or spork
Lightweight and strong
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Insulated cup (12-16oz)
A 12-16 oz (350-500 ml) mug with an attached lid will help keep you hydrated
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Pocket knife or multitool
Simple Swiss Army type with scissors. Make sure you transport in checked bag, not carry-on!
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Snacks (general)
Bring your favorite snacks and power/energy bars or if there is something else you particularly like to eat while hiking and climbing
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Toiletry kit (NW)
toilet paper stored in double zip lock bags
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Nylon stuff sacks
for food and gear storage, large ziplocs are useful
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Large plastic bags
heavy duty trash compactor bags recommended
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Bandana (optional)
lightweight
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Camera (optional)
or any sort of device that takes pictures
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Soap, shampoo, towel (optional)
for use at campground showers when on itinerary
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Travel clothing
Comfortable clothing for travel before and after the expedition
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Book Trip
Mount Stuart North Ridge
from $1,350
3 Days
- 1:1 - $1,875 per person
- 2:1 - $1,350 per person
Elevation
9,415 ft / 2867 m
Route
North Ridge
Grade
IV 5.9
Difficulty
Advanced Intermediate
Climbers should be comfortable climbing on exposed ridges, 45 to 60 degree snow/ice slopes and/or 5.6+ rock and have a well-rounded past history of climbing experience. Depending on the objective, climbers may need only snow/ice skills or only rock skills; and vice-versa. Some climbs may require both skill sets.
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