Mount Stuart Complete North Ridge
With engagÂing climbÂing, and exquisÂite expoÂsure, the comÂplete North Ridge of Mount StuÂart is perÂhaps the longest, finest stretch of alpine rock in WashÂingÂton state. You need to have your best game on for this one! The 3,000-foot/ 900-meter route ascends steadiÂly up immacÂuÂlate cracks, across knife-edge ridges, and over imposÂing genÂdarmes to the sumÂmit. The broad sumÂmit of Mount StuÂart offers panoramÂic views of the North CasÂcades, and optionÂal bivy spots for those lookÂing for a night at altiÂtude. The descent takes you down the CasÂcaÂdiÂan Couloir, an alpine clasÂsic in its own right, to where the shimÂmerÂing blue water of Ingalls Lake waits enticingly.
This climb is done on a cusÂtom basis.
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Description
This is an interÂmeÂdiÂate levÂel climb. SimÂiÂlar and preÂviÂous expeÂriÂence is required.
This climb involves the following:
- Exposed alpine rock
- StrenÂuÂous approach
- Climbers should have the abilÂiÂty to folÂlow 5.9 rock with a mediÂum-weight pack and move steadiÂly for 10 – 12 hours
- Climbers should be in excelÂlent physÂiÂcal conÂdiÂtion and very comÂpeÂtent on hardÂer alpine terrain
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Alpine Climbing Grades
Grade I: NorÂmalÂly requires sevÂerÂal hours; can be of any difficulty
Grade II: Requires half a day; any techÂniÂcal difficulty
Grade III: Requires a day to do the techÂniÂcal porÂtion; any techÂniÂcal difficulty
Grade IV: Requires a full day for the techÂniÂcal porÂtion; the hardÂest pitch is usuÂalÂly no less than 5.7 (in the YDS rating)
Grade V: Requires a day and a half; the hardÂest pitch is usuÂalÂly 5.8 or harder
Grade VI: A mulÂti-day excurÂsion with difÂfiÂcult free climbÂing and/​or aid climbing
Have a Question? Contact Us!
Price
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Mount StuÂart ComÂplete North Ridge
from $1,350 – 3 Days
- 1:1 - $1,875 per person
- 2:1 - $1,350 per person
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Price Includes
- All meals while on the mountain
- Tents
- Stoves
- Cook kits
- Group climbÂing equipment
- Guide serÂvices
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Price Does Not Include
- AirÂfare
- TransÂportaÂtion — Clients will be responÂsiÂble for their own and the guide’s(s’) transÂportaÂtion for the trip
- All addiÂtionÂal fees — CampÂing, perÂmit, parkÂing, etc.
- Hotel accomÂmoÂdaÂtions
- RestauÂrant meals
- All perÂsonÂal equipment
- TravÂel insurÂance with trip canÂcelÂlaÂtion, medÂical and evacÂuÂaÂtion policy
- Guide graÂtuÂities
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Payment Schedule
- $400 deposit at time of regÂisÂtraÂtion, which includes a $200 non-refundÂable regÂisÂtraÂtion fee
- BalÂance due 90 days priÂor to departure
- The balÂance can be paid by check, wire transÂfer, ACH or credÂit card with a 3% conÂveÂnience fee
Dates
Climb is Arranged on a Custom Basis — Contact Us
Policies
Cancellation / Refund Policy
- MMI strongÂly recÂomÂmends trip cancellation/​interruption and evacÂuÂaÂtion insurÂance for all trips. Our insurÂance partÂner, RipÂcord, offers comÂpreÂhenÂsive travÂel insurÂance includÂing trip canÂcelÂlaÂtion, as well as rescue/​evacuation poliÂcies and can assist in answerÂing any quesÂtions. In addiÂtion, ParÂticÂiÂpant is expectÂed to have sufÂfiÂcient medÂical insurÂance as preÂscribed by their counÂtry of oriÂgin. ParÂticÂiÂpant underÂstands that MMI does not include any type of insurÂance with the cost of the trip.
- If you decide to canÂcel your trip or change your itinÂerÂary, MMI must be notiÂfied in writÂing. Your trip will be canÂcelled from the date writÂten notice is received. If propÂer writÂten canÂcelÂlaÂtion notice is not received, amounts paid and reserÂvaÂtions made will be forfeited.
- Non-refundÂable fees may apply for cerÂtain trips in order to secure perÂmits and othÂer serÂvices. MMI must strictÂly adhere to canÂcelÂlaÂtion poliÂcies outÂside MMI’s control.
- Due to the perÂsonÂalÂized serÂvice we offer on our trips, MMI reserves the right to waive any fees. We will attempt to accomÂmoÂdate changes and canÂcelÂlaÂtions, waivÂing cerÂtain fees when feasible.
- CirÂcumÂstances outÂside the conÂtrol of MMI and its partÂners, may require amendÂed cancellation/​refund poliÂcies. Such cirÂcumÂstances may include, but are not limÂitÂed to COVID-19, natÂurÂal disÂasÂters, wildÂfires, terÂrorÂism and so forth.
DomesÂtic Trips/​Courses:
- Full refund, less the non-refundÂable regÂisÂtraÂtion fee, will be proÂvidÂed 91 days or more before the deparÂture date
- No refunds will be proÂvidÂed 90 days or less before the deparÂture date
Trip Insurance
We strongÂly recÂomÂmend the purÂchase of travÂel canÂcelÂlaÂtion insurÂance to proÂtect you from the unexÂpectÂed. You aren’t likeÂly to think of it now, but peoÂple do get ill, break a bone, have a famÂiÂly emerÂgency or get assigned to a last-minute busiÂness trip. If you are in remote areas, please note that emerÂgency resÂcue & evacÂuÂaÂtion can be very expenÂsive.
We also strongÂly urge you to conÂsidÂer resÂcue and evacÂuÂaÂtion insurÂance if your own polÂiÂcy does not proÂvide the covÂerÂage needÂed. SerÂvices availÂable may include, but are not limÂitÂed to, heliÂcopter evacÂuÂaÂtion, medÂical care, etc.
If you choose not to purÂchase insurÂance, you assume full responÂsiÂbilÂiÂty for any expensÂes incurred in the event of a medÂical emerÂgency and/​or evacÂuÂaÂtion, as well as for trip canÂcelÂlaÂtion, interÂrupÂtion, lost lugÂgage, etc. We are not the experts and thereÂfore ask that you please conÂsult our travÂel insurÂance partÂner directÂly with any speÂcifÂic questions.
To proÂtect against lossÂes due to illÂness, acciÂdent, or othÂer unforeÂseen cirÂcumÂstances, MounÂtain MadÂness strongÂly recÂomÂmends the purÂchase of travÂel insurÂance as soon as posÂsiÂble after makÂing a deposit. MounÂtain MadÂness has partÂnered with RedÂpoint ResÂoÂluÂtions as our preÂferred travÂel insurÂance provider. Redpoint’s RipÂcord ResÂcue TravÂel InsurÂance™ is designed for adventurers.
For a quote, or to purÂchase travÂel insurÂance, please click this link RipÂcord ResÂcue TravÂel InsurÂance™ or call +1 – 415-481‑0600. PricÂing varies based on age, trip cost, trip length, and levÂel of coverage.
CritÂiÂcal benÂeÂfits of RipÂcord ResÂcue TravÂel InsurÂance include:
- A comÂpleteÂly inteÂgratÂed proÂgram with a sinÂgle point of conÂtact for emerÂgency serÂvices, travÂel assisÂtance, and insurÂance claims
- EvacÂuÂaÂtion and resÂcue serÂvices from your point of injury or illÂness to your hosÂpiÂtal of choice
- ComÂpreÂhenÂsive travÂel insurÂance for trip cancellation/​interruption, priÂmaÂry medÂical expense covÂerÂage, bagÂgage loss or delay, emerÂgency acciÂdent and emerÂgency sickÂness medÂical expense, emerÂgency denÂtal, acciÂdenÂtal death and disÂmemÂberÂment, and more
- OptionÂal secuÂriÂty evacÂuÂaÂtion covÂerÂage in case of an unplanned natÂurÂal disÂasÂter or othÂer secuÂriÂty events
- WaivÂer for pre-existÂing conÂdiÂtions (must be purÂchased withÂin 14 days of tour deposit)
- OptionÂal ​“CanÂcel for Any ReaÂson” covÂerÂage (must be purÂchased withÂin 14 days of tour deposit)
Itinerary
Mount Stuart Complete North Ridge Day by Day
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Day 1
We meet you earÂly in the mornÂing and after a quick oriÂenÂtaÂtion and equipÂment check at a local gear shop we driÂve from SeatÂtle for approxÂiÂmateÂly 2 hours and 45 minÂutes to the trailÂhead at 4,243 feet / 1293 meters. We first hike to Ingalls Pass, then through the Ingalls Lake basin, and up to StuÂart Pass.
From there it is posÂsiÂble to camp in mulÂtiÂple locaÂtions, includÂing on the route after ascendÂing through the first porÂtion of the climb to a notch on the North Ridge propÂer. Many groups choose the option to carÂry-over all their equipÂment on the climb. AlterÂnaÂtiveÂly it is posÂsiÂble to camp at StuÂart Pass and retrace your steps to the tents after descendÂing the CasÂcaÂdiÂan Couloir.
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Day 2
The entire climb is underÂtakÂen on the secÂond day. The North Ridge is often done as a carÂry-over with a light pack conÂtainÂing all the groups campÂing, and climbÂing equipÂment. The climb, includÂing descent, requires 9 – 11 hours.
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Day 3
After breakÂfast the team breaks down camp, and returns to the trailhead.
Note on ItinÂerÂary: Although we do our very best to folÂlow the schedÂule listÂed, the very nature of climbÂing in an alpine enviÂronÂment requires flexÂiÂbilÂiÂty. This itinÂerÂary is subÂject to change due to inclement weathÂer, unsafe route conÂdiÂtions, and othÂer reaÂsons beyond our control.
Equipment for Mount Stuart Complete North Ridge
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Carrying Gear
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Alpine Climbing Pack (55-65L)
approx 3500-4000 cubic inch (55 to 65 liters) capacity, avoid unnecessary options that add weight
Examples:
Gregory Alpinisto 50, Black Diamond Speed 55
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Sleeping Gear
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Expedition quality sleeping bag (15-20F)
One down or synthetic bag rated from 15-20°F /-9 to -7°C
Examples:
Marmot Helium, Marmot Trestles, Western Mountaineering Apache, North Face Guide 20
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Sleeping pad (inflatable or closed cell foam)
A foam pad will be provided but a supplemental pad is recommended. This can be an inflatable or closed cell foam pad. Make sure to purchase a pad rated for cold conditions.
Examples:
Therm-a-Rest NeoAir & Therm-a-Rest Z Lite Sol
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Bivy sack
light weight, waterproof/breathable
Examples:
Outdoor Research Alpine Bivy, OR Helium
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Climbing Gear
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Alpine climbing harness
Must have adjustable leg loops and fit over all clothing
Examples:
Black Diamond Couloir, Petzl Altitude, Petzl Hirundos
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Locking carabiners (2)
Two large, pear-shaped carabiners are best
Examples:
Black Diamond Rock Lock, Petzl William, Petzl Attache
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Non-locking carabiners (2)
2 non-locking carabiners. wired straight-gates are recommended
Examples:
Black Diamond HotWire
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Mountaineering ice axe (early season - contact for details)
under 5’7” use 60cm, 5’7”-6’2” use 60 or 65cm, over 6’2” use 70cm
Examples:
Black Diamond Raven, Petzl Glacier
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Crampons w/ anti-balling plate (early season - contact for details)
Steel 12-pont. Must be fit to climbing boots prior to trip, new-matic/hybrid type
Examples:
Black Diamond Sabretooth, Petzl Vasak
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Climbing helmet
Lightweight
Examples:
Black Diamond Half Dome, Petzl Elios
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4' of perlon accessory cord
4' of perlon accessory cord for prussik materials (6mm diameter)
Examples:
Sterling
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Double length nylon runner (48" or 120cm)
be sure to get nylon not dyneema (18mm width)
Examples:
Black Diamond Nylon Slings
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Adjustable trekking poles
Three piece poles recommended
Examples:
Black Diamond Trail Back Pole
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Belay device (plaquette)
Tube style
Examples:
Black Diamond ATC Guide, Petzl Reverso
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Head and Face
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Fleece or wool hat
It must cover the ears
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Glacier glasses
100% UV protection with side shields and a hard-sided storage case
Examples:
Julbo
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Shade hat or baseball cap
A visor hat with a good brim is essential for protection from the sun
Examples:
Mountain Madness trucker hat
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Balaclava or neck gaiter (optional)
lightweight
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Hands
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Light weight work gloves
lightweight gloves with leather palm for rope work
Examples:
Black Diamond Transition Glove
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Mid-weight gloves
1-2 pairs
Examples:
Black Diamond Punisher Glove
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Feet
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Liner socks (optional)
1-pair lightweight and thin
Examples:
polypropylene or wool
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Syntheric or wool socks
check boot fir to make sure they work together
Examples:
Smartwool ,Patagonia
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Lightweight mountaineering boot
waterproof and crampon compatible
Examples:
La Sportiva Trango Tower GTX, Scarpa Charmoz, Salewa Crow GTX
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Approach shoes
hiking shoe with climbing specific sticky rubber (route and season dependent)
Examples:
La Sportiva Boulder X, La Sportiva TX3, Scarpa Crux, Scarpa Gecko, 5.10 Guide Tennie
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Rock Shoes
comfortable enough for all-day use
Examples:
La Sportiva Mythos, Scarpa Helix
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Upper Body
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Synthetic t-shirts
Two synthetic or merino wool t-shirts. No cotton!
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Sports bras
Two, synthetic, no cotton!
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Long-sleeved Base Layer
Two lightweight to mediumweight, pull-over is best
Examples:
Patagonia Capilene
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Light weight synthetic jacket
light weight synthetic puffy or fleece
Examples:
Patagonia Nano Puff jacket
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Softshell Jacket w/ hood
This is what you will be wearing while hiking at higher altitudes or while kicking around camps at lower altitude. This jacket should be full-zip
Examples:
Outdoor Research Ferrosi
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Hardshell jacket w/ hood
A good jacket made of Gore-Tex (recommended) or waterproof nylon, roomy enough to fit over multiple layers
Examples:
Outdoor Research Foray, Patagonia Triolet
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Down or synthetic jacket w/hood
This is your most important piece of warm gear and will mean the difference between an enjoyable climb or a miserable one. A warm, full zip jacket with hood is ideal.
Examples:
Helly Hansen Vanir, Feathered Friends Volant, Marmot Guide’s Down Hoody, Outdoor Research Virtuoso Hoody
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Sun hoody
This piece with a high SPF rating and lightweight fabric offers protection from high altitude sun
Examples:
Outdoor Research
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Lower Body
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Long base layer
Two pairs light or mediumweight
Examples:
Patagonia Capilene
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Softshell pants
Softshell pants are water resistant, yet highly breathable and durable. Great for colder conditions over a pair of long underwear or tights higher on the mountain or summit day
Examples:
Outdoor Research Voodoo, Mountain Hardwear Touren, Patagonia Guide
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Hardshell pants
waterproof and breathable with side zips (minimum of Âľ zips recommended) Gore-Tex or equivalent
Examples:
Outdoor Research Furio, Arcteryx Beta AR
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Miscellaneous
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Bear Bag/Bear Canister
Bear bag or bear canister to protect your food from both bears and smaller critters
Examples:
Ursack AllMitey, BearVault,
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Personal first aid kit (NW)
moleskin/blister kit, Band-aids, athletic tape, ibuprofen, personal medications, ect
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Lip balm
Must have SPF rating of 20 or more. Bring two just in case!
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Sunscreen
Bring plenty of sun block with SPF of 40 or more. It's easy to underestimate the amount necessary for your trip!
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Hand sanitizer
enough to last trip length
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Insect repellent
A must!
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Headlamp
Bring extra batteries!
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Water bottles
two 1 liter wide-mouth water bottles
Examples:
Nalgene
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Hydration bladder (optional)
hydration bladder or water bag with drinking tube (must also have 1 Nalgene Bottle or equivalent)
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Water purification (NW)
Purifies drinking water while on the climb
Examples:
Steri Pen, water filter, Potable Aqua, Polar Pure crystal iodine
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Large plastic bowl
Bring a 2-4 cup camping bowl or a plastic "Rubbermaid" style container for your mountain dining
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Insulated cup (12-16oz)
A 12-16 oz (350-500 ml) mug with an attached lid will help keep you hydrated
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Lexan spoon or spork
Lightweight and strong
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Pocket knife or multitool
Simple Swiss Army type with scissors. Make sure you transport in checked bag, not carry-on!
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Toiletry kit (NW)
toilet paper stored in double zip lock bags
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Nylon stuff sacks
for food and gear storage, large ziplocs are useful
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Large plastic bags
heavy duty trash compactor bags recommended
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Bandana (optional)
lightweight
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Snacks (general)
Bring your favorite snacks and power/energy bars or if there is something else you particularly like to eat while hiking and climbing
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Camera (optional)
or any sort of device that takes pictures
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Soap, shampoo, towel (optional)
for use at campground showers when on itinerary
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Travel clothing
Comfortable clothing for travel before and after the expedition
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Mount StuÂart ComÂplete North Ridge
from $1,350
3 Days
- 1:1 - $1,875 per person
- 2:1 - $1,350 per person
Elevation
9416 ft / 2870 m
Route
ComÂplete North Ridge
Grade
IV 5.9
Difficulty
Advanced
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