Eldorado Peak
Climb into the heart of the North Cascades
Located in the rugged North Cascades National Park, Eldorado Peak is famous for its knife edge summit ridge and its unsurpassed views. Approaching via the straightforward Eldorado Glacier, climbers have ample opportunity to practice their glacier mountaineering skills before reaching the exposed East Ridge, which involves steep snow with wonderful climbing exposure.
From the summit climbers take in the views of Forbidden Peak’s amazing “nordwand,” the peaks of the Inspiration-Klawatti Ice Cap and the Ptarmigan Traverse, Mount Shuksan, and Mount Baker to the north. This is without a doubt one of the most famous views in Washington — don’t forget your camera!
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Trip Perks
Icefields, views down the Skagit River Valley, a “top of the world” feeling, and blueberry ice cream after the climb all make the challenging approach, acceptable and give the rewards for your efforts more meaning.
Plus camping Mountain Madness style:
- We’ll drive you to the trailhead and back!
- Give you shelter from the storm — tents are provided!
- We provide meals and the culinary skills of your guide — food and cooking are on us!
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Description
Another classic climb in the heart of the North Cascades. Climbers earn the views on this climb! The approach takes a direct trail up forested slopes leading into the alpine, a place where open meadows, alpine flowers and rushing streams create the ambience unique to the range. Add to this the mini-Himalayan exposed knife-edged summit ridge and you have a complete adventure on one of Cascade climbers’ most beloved peaks.
On this climb we will cover:
- Selection and use of personal equipment, ropes, knots and harnesses
- Crampon use and snow climbing techniques, ice axe positioning, and self arrest techniques
- Roped glacier travel, rope team management, route finding, and crevasse navigation
- Hazard assessment including a discussion of objective vs. subjective hazards
- Camp construction, camp management, and cold weather camping skills
- Proper clothing and climbing gear for survival in the high mountains, mountain weather, alpine ecology, avalanche hazard assessment, and Leave No Trace ethics
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Alpine Climbing Grades
Grade I: Normally requires several hours; can be of any difficulty
Grade II: Requires half a day; any technical difficulty
Grade III: Requires a day to do the technical portion; any technical difficulty
Grade IV: Requires a full day for the technical portion; the hardest pitch is usually no less than 5.7 (in the YDS rating)
Grade V: Requires a day and a half; the hardest pitch is usually 5.8 or harder
Grade VI: A multi-day excursion with difficult free climbing and/or aid climbing
Have a Question? Contact Us!
Price
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Eldorado Peak
from $1,125 – 3 Days / Includes Transportation, Tents and Food
- 1:1 - $1,875 per person
- 2:1 - $1,350 per person
- 3:1 - $1,125 per person
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Price Includes (Complete List)
- Ground transportation
- All meals while on the mountain
- Tents
- Stoves
- Cook kits
- Group climbing equipment
- Guide services
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Price Does Not Include
- Airfare
- Transportation within Seattle
- Hotel accommodations
- Restaurant meals
- All personal equipment
- Travel insurance with trip cancellation, medical and evacuation policy
- Guide gratuities
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Payment Schedule
- $400 deposit at time of registration, which includes a $200 non-refundable registration fee
- Balance due 90 days prior to departure
- The balance can be paid by check, wire transfer, ACH or credit card with a 3% convenience fee
Dates
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Eldorado Peak 2025
- Jun 27, 2025 — Jun 29, 2025
- Jul 18, 2025 — Jul 20, 2025
- Aug 22, 2025 — Aug 24, 2025
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Eldorado Peak 2026
- Jun 26, 2026 — Jun 28, 2026
- Jul 17, 2026 — Jul 19, 2026
- Aug 21, 2026 — Aug 23, 2026
Custom Dates Available — Contact Us
Policies
Cancellation / Refund Policy
- MMI strongly recommends trip cancellation/interruption and evacuation insurance for all trips. Our insurance partner, Ripcord, offers comprehensive travel insurance including trip cancellation, as well as rescue/evacuation policies and can assist in answering any questions. In addition, Participant is expected to have sufficient medical insurance as prescribed by their country of origin. Participant understands that MMI does not include any type of insurance with the cost of the trip.
- If you decide to cancel your trip or change your itinerary, MMI must be notified in writing. Your trip will be cancelled from the date written notice is received. If proper written cancellation notice is not received, amounts paid and reservations made will be forfeited.
- Non-refundable fees may apply for certain trips in order to secure permits and other services. MMI must strictly adhere to cancellation policies outside MMI’s control.
- Due to the personalized service we offer on our trips, MMI reserves the right to waive any fees. We will attempt to accommodate changes and cancellations, waiving certain fees when feasible.
- Circumstances outside the control of MMI and its partners, may require amended cancellation/refund policies. Such circumstances may include, but are not limited to COVID-19, natural disasters, wildfires, terrorism and so forth.
Domestic Trips/Courses:
- Full refund, less the non-refundable registration fee, will be provided 91 days or more before the departure date
- No refunds will be provided 90 days or less before the departure date
Trip Insurance
We strongly recommend the purchase of travel cancellation insurance to protect you from the unexpected. You aren’t likely to think of it now, but people do get ill, break a bone, have a family emergency or get assigned to a last-minute business trip. If you are in remote areas, please note that emergency rescue & evacuation can be very expensive.
We also strongly urge you to consider rescue and evacuation insurance if your own policy does not provide the coverage needed. Services available may include, but are not limited to, helicopter evacuation, medical care, etc.
If you choose not to purchase insurance, you assume full responsibility for any expenses incurred in the event of a medical emergency and/or evacuation, as well as for trip cancellation, interruption, lost luggage, etc. We are not the experts and therefore ask that you please consult our travel insurance partner directly with any specific questions.
To protect against losses due to illness, accident, or other unforeseen circumstances, Mountain Madness strongly recommends the purchase of travel insurance as soon as possible after making a deposit. Mountain Madness has partnered with Redpoint Resolutions as our preferred travel insurance provider. Redpoint’s Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ is designed for adventurers.
For a quote, or to purchase travel insurance, please click this link Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ or call +1 – 415-481‑0600. Pricing varies based on age, trip cost, trip length, and level of coverage.
Critical benefits of Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance include:
- A completely integrated program with a single point of contact for emergency services, travel assistance, and insurance claims
- Evacuation and rescue services from your point of injury or illness to your hospital of choice
- Comprehensive travel insurance for trip cancellation/interruption, primary medical expense coverage, baggage loss or delay, emergency accident and emergency sickness medical expense, emergency dental, accidental death and dismemberment, and more
- Optional security evacuation coverage in case of an unplanned natural disaster or other security events
- Waiver for pre-existing conditions (must be purchased within 14 days of tour deposit)
- Optional “Cancel for Any Reason” coverage (must be purchased within 14 days of tour deposit)
Itinerary
Flight Information
For scheduled courses and climbs, you should fly into Seattle-Tacoma International Airport (SeaTac). You are responsible for your transportation to downtown Seattle. You will meet as a group with your guide(s) early morning on Day 1 for an orientation meeting and equipment check.
Eldorado Peak Day by Day
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Day 1
We drive from Seattle to the trailhead located on the Cascade River Road a few miles below Cascade Pass about 3 hours. The approach up Eldorado Creek is strenuous and notorious for its steepness and directness. With solid fitness, however, it goes quickly and the angle eases off after about 3 hours. We start out in dense, old growth forest, then pass through some steep boulder fields and clusters of Mountain Hemlock before arriving in the alpine zone where the mighty Johannesburg Peak dominates the view. A low camp can be made here or, if time and fitness allow, we can move up to bivouac spots at the base of the Eldorado Glacier.
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Day 2
The second day is dedicated to teaching the essentials of glacier travel. We begin with learning basic climbing skills, ice axe usage, self arrest, and balance positioning. In the afternoon we can work on roped team travel, route finding, and hazard assessment with an introduction to crevasse rescue and possibly move camp or go on a glacier tour.
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Day 3
After an alpine start we climb up toward the summit via the Eldorado and Inspiration Glaciers and the East Ridge. Depending on conditions, the pace of the group, and the location of high camp, it takes from three to six hours to reach the summit. From the top at 8,868 feet / 2703 meters, we have stunning views of the heart of the North Cascades and spine of the Cascade Crest. Our descent reverses the approach route. Expect to be back in Seattle by 5 – 6 pm.
Note on Itinerary: Although we do our very best to follow the schedule listed, the very nature of climbing in an alpine environment requires flexibility. This itinerary is subject to change due to inclement weather, unsafe route conditions, and other reasons beyond our control.
Equipment for Eldorado Peak
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Carrying Gear
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Large capacity climbing pack (65-75L)
approximately 4000-4500 cubic inch (65-75 liters) capacity, avoid unnecessary options that add weight
Examples:
Black Diamond Mission 75, Osprey Ariel 65
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Sleeping Gear
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Sleeping pad (inflatable or closed cell foam)
A foam pad will be provided but a supplemental pad is recommended. This can be an inflatable or closed cell foam pad. Make sure to purchase a pad rated for cold conditions.
Examples:
Therm-a-Rest NeoAir & Therm-a-Rest Z Lite Sol
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Expedition quality sleeping bag (15-20F)
One down or synthetic bag rated from 15-20°F /-9 to -7°C
Examples:
Marmot Helium, Marmot Trestles, Western Mountaineering Apache, North Face Guide 20
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Climbing Gear
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Alpine climbing harness
Must have adjustable leg loops and fit over all clothing
Examples:
Black Diamond Couloir, Petzl Altitude, Petzl Hirundos
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Locking carabiners (2)
Two large, pear-shaped carabiners are best
Examples:
Black Diamond Rock Lock, Petzl William, Petzl Attache
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Non-locking carabiners (2)
2 non-locking carabiners. wired straight-gates are recommended
Examples:
Black Diamond HotWire
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Mountaineering ice axe
under 5’7” use 60cm, 5’7”-6’2” use 60 or 65cm, over 6’2” use 70cm
Examples:
Black Diamond Raven, Petzl Glacier
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Crampons w/ anti-balling plate
Steel 12-pont. Must be fit to climbing boots prior to trip, new-matic/hybrid type
Examples:
Black Diamond Sabretooth, Petzl Vasak
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Climbing helmet
Lightweight
Examples:
Black Diamond Half Dome, Petzl Elios
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4' of perlon accessory cord
4' of perlon accessory cord for prussik materials (6mm diameter)
Examples:
Sterling
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Adjustable trekking poles
Three piece poles recommended
Examples:
Black Diamond Trail Back Pole
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Head and Face
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Glacier glasses
100% UV protection with side shields and a hard-sided storage case
Examples:
Julbo
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Fleece or wool hat
It must cover the ears
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Shade hat or baseball cap
A visor hat with a good brim is essential for protection from the sun
Examples:
Mountain Madness trucker hat
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Balaclava or neck gaiter (optional)
lightweight
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Hands
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Light weight work gloves
lightweight gloves with leather palm for rope work
Examples:
Black Diamond Transition Glove
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Mid-weight gloves
1-2 pairs
Examples:
Black Diamond Punisher Glove
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Feet
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Liner socks (optional)
1-pair lightweight and thin
Examples:
polypropylene or wool
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Syntheric or wool socks
check boot fir to make sure they work together
Examples:
Smartwool ,Patagonia
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Gaiters (optional)
Check fit with boots
Examples:
Outdoor Research Verglas or Crocodile
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Insulated mountaineering boots (NW)
waterproof, insulated, crampon compatible, full shank boots. Many of these boots have Women specific equivalents (May –late June and Ice Climbs)
Examples:
Scarpa Mt Blanc, Scarpa Phantom Tech, La Sportiva Nepal Evo GTX, Salewa Vulture Vertical GTX
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Lightweight mountaineering boots (NW)
waterproof and crampon compatible (HIGHLY recommended from July -October)
Examples:
Scarpa Charmoz, La Sportiva Trango Tower, Salewa Raven, Salewa Crow
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Light trail shoes, camp booties, or sandals (optional)
Trail shoes for when at campgrounds and booties/sandals/Crocs for basecamps when weather and season allow
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Upper Body
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Synthetic t-shirts
Two synthetic or merino wool t-shirts. No cotton!
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Sports bras
Two, synthetic, no cotton!
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Long-sleeved Base Layer
Two lightweight to mediumweight, pull-over is best
Examples:
Patagonia Capilene
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Light weight wind shell
thin, light weight, and waterproof or softshell
Examples:
Patagonia Houdini
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Light weight synthetic jacket
light weight synthetic puffy or fleece
Examples:
Patagonia Nano Puff jacket
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Hardshell jacket w/ hood
A good jacket made of Gore-Tex (recommended) or waterproof nylon, roomy enough to fit over multiple layers
Examples:
Outdoor Research Foray, Patagonia Triolet
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Down or synthetic jacket w/hood
This is your most important piece of warm gear and will mean the difference between an enjoyable climb or a miserable one. A warm, full zip jacket with hood is ideal.
Examples:
Helly Hansen Vanir, Feathered Friends Volant, Marmot Guide’s Down Hoody, Outdoor Research Virtuoso Hoody
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Sun hoody
This piece with a high SPF rating and lightweight fabric offers protection from high altitude sun
Examples:
Outdoor Research
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Lower Body
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Long base layer
Two pairs light or mediumweight
Examples:
Patagonia Capilene
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Nylon shorts (optional)
Quick-drying type for July-Sept trips
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Softshell pants
Softshell pants are water resistant, yet highly breathable and durable. Great for colder conditions over a pair of long underwear or tights higher on the mountain or summit day
Examples:
Outdoor Research Voodoo, Mountain Hardwear Touren, Patagonia Guide
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Hardshell pants
waterproof and breathable with side zips (minimum of ¾ zips recommended) Gore-Tex or equivalent
Examples:
Outdoor Research Furio, Arcteryx Beta AR
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Miscellaneous
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Bear Bag/Bear Canister
Bear bag or bear canister to protect your food from both bears and smaller critters
Examples:
Ursack AllMitey, BearVault,
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Personal first aid kit (NW)
moleskin/blister kit, Band-aids, athletic tape, ibuprofen, personal medications, ect
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Lip balm
Must have SPF rating of 20 or more. Bring two just in case!
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Sunscreen
Bring plenty of sun block with SPF of 40 or more. It's easy to underestimate the amount necessary for your trip!
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Hand Sanitizer
Hand sanitizing liquid drops
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Insect repellent
A must!
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Headlamp
Bring extra batteries!
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Water bottles
two 1 liter wide-mouth water bottles
Examples:
Nalgene
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Hydration bladder (optional)
hydration bladder or water bag with drinking tube (must also have 1 Nalgene Bottle or equivalent)
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Water purification (NW)
Purifies drinking water while on the climb
Examples:
Steri Pen, water filter, Potable Aqua, Polar Pure crystal iodine
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Insulated cup (12-16oz)
A 12-16 oz (350-500 ml) mug with an attached lid will help keep you hydrated
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Large plastic bowl
Bring a 2-4 cup camping bowl or a plastic "Rubbermaid" style container for your mountain dining
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Lexan spoon or spork
Lightweight and strong
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Pocket knife or multitool
Simple Swiss Army type with scissors. Make sure you transport in checked bag, not carry-on!
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Toiletry kit (NW)
toilet paper stored in double zip lock bags
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Large plastic bags
Sleeping bag and clothes will be double-bagged while on the trek for protection from rain. Heavy duty garbage bags or trash compactor bags work great and can store dirty or wet clothes as well
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Nylon stuff sacks
for food and gear storage, large ziplocs are useful
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Bandana (optional)
lightweight
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Snacks (general)
Bring your favorite snacks and power/energy bars or if there is something else you particularly like to eat while hiking and climbing
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Camera (optional)
or any sort of device that takes pictures
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Soap, shampoo, towel (optional)
for use at campground showers when on itinerary
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Travel clothing
Comfortable clothing for travel before and after the expedition
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Book Trip
Eldorado Peak
from $1,125
3 Days / Includes Transportation, Tents and Food
- 1:1 - $1,875 per person
- 2:1 - $1,350 per person
- 3:1 - $1,125 per person
Elevation
8,868 ft / 2703 m
Route
East Ridge
Client to Guide Ratio
3:1
Grade
II
Difficulty
Advanced Beginner
Climbers should have basic snow and ice-climbing skills and should be comfortable with glacier travel, which includes moving in a rope team, self arrest, and basic crevasse rescue. Basic knowledge and experience would be required for objectives with some rock climbing.
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