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Ken’s High Five — Part Two, Eldorado Peak
With beautiful weather conditions, great company, and a hefty amount of training in preparation, our three-day ascent of Eldorado Peak was one for the books. Eldorado Peak is in North Cascades National Park, surrounded by peak after iconic peak.
This rugged climb includes one of the most strenuous approach days in the cascades. A tree trunk river crossing, a steep, direct, climber’s trail, and boulder field scramble make this a classic Cascade climb.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FIMG_8591_2048.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=653d74cd7f6615c4d8240c48e5aeaecc 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FIMG_8591_2048.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=8099739658d8096404c6368cf46d47b3 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FIMG_8591_2048.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=dc941241db7b754f28db1e5f970fcd6a 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FIMG_8591_2048.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=79b66b0352fabb2069b49de1428bac2a 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FIMG_8591_2048.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=ac85d1aef93bc2a269a2d4f057670ef5 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FIMG_8591_2048.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=0793c9ed6795093c62231818dd2e4e60 1200w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FIMG_8591_2048.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=6538cf06c005e8574d71ca42815eb54f 1400w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FIMG_8591_2048.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=bbcd824bee2cefe5c1ee08e4cc80714f 1536w)
Ken on the approach with Mt. Johannesburg in the background.
We spent our first day prepping gear in Seattle, stopping by the ranger station in Marblemount, and approaching base camp. With multiple base camp options, Eldorado provides the opportunity to select your preferred scenery as well as length of summit day. We started on the steep climbers’ trail in the woods and progressed out of the trees through alpine meadows. After descending a steep gulley, we found ourselves selecting a base camp in Roush Creek basin at the base of Eldorado Glacier.
The next morning, after an alpine start, we found ourselves nearing the classic knife-blade summit. The timing felt almost perfect; we topped out on Inspiration Glacier as the sun began cresting the skyline to our east.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FIMG_8611_2048.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=149baa912f3f46f16e8d0122ab54f764 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FIMG_8611_2048.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=56588e97836b3f09e6412572683a9c9f 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FIMG_8611_2048.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=8532ae1f504e5b9e53a0c16a6fed3f89 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FIMG_8611_2048.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=ba4f63b67499da9f441a890bc3de5e82 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FIMG_8611_2048.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=15c690542b2943a85f18fea548cf403f 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FIMG_8611_2048.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=646600d017cee2404cb9f420fa0de253 1200w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FIMG_8611_2048.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=fffe12b060d24fc0db7fceaca4017171 1400w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FIMG_8611_2048.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=b6356d744cbde36b26953c19a73d2542 1600w)
Sunrise from the Inspiration Glacier
We carried on toward the final summit ridge as light filled the sky. We ascended the glacier in style — happy that most our heavy gear was left in our tent at basecamp. Roped up, we carefully ascended the snowy knife blade ridge step by step all the way to the summit. Stellar weather and spectacular views persuaded us to take our time before starting our descent.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FIMG_8636_2048.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=558b0fbb2a4d489470825adbba9505b4 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FIMG_8636_2048.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=4246c65145a0efa44a2586ae1853ff95 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FIMG_8636_2048.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=f4a1bda8bbd314e7be29633606c4e5da 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FIMG_8636_2048.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=03fe1f71e4bcf48300b035c78f8a8770 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FIMG_8636_2048.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=c9c710f2bfdbd4d18064f27f7729ef82 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FIMG_8636_2048.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=250b62cf3dfcb6099a11591996051233 1200w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FIMG_8636_2048.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=37401c896971acacfba10b24c5e8aa5e 1400w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FIMG_8636_2048.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=610fa677e9f1e5186a8e88674b153072 1536w)
Ken on the ridge.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FIMG_8647_2048.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=7214ca7745e96d520d7ba5bd727ad6b3 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FIMG_8647_2048.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=1c47b0b05bfb82494a25beb678ae06b6 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FIMG_8647_2048.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=9db6bd9413c844e69ceec0e12e434946 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FIMG_8647_2048.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=1c6c9e5ac95ccf7f9359e1d75f7daa8a 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FIMG_8647_2048.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=fa844177eac18192d9148db86af40a51 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FIMG_8647_2048.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=64f68ac0572e2a89f59bca4dfb3dacf1 1200w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FIMG_8647_2048.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=99c2f2116cee0523e865ba6ab036582f 1400w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FIMG_8647_2048.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=3112b3c8c31741c4e1922dda177afbc9 1536w)
On the knife-blade summit ridge of Eldorado.
Back to camp by 9:30 am, we had time for a nap and an afternoon of snow school. We covered anchors, knots and hitches, and self-arrest; all important skills to know as a mountaineer.
Day three wrapped up our trip. We broke camp and began reversing our burly approach to base camp. We began chuckling about how steep our approach trail was — if there is one positive, it is definitely the most direct way up the mountain!
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FIMG_8681_2048.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=614f793585b8d8f562eec3729e08de2e 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FIMG_8681_2048.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=d9e824796e63bdad008847b1cf534064 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FIMG_8681_2048.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=70e07db6046c09e0a62ea180ac399bf1 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FIMG_8681_2048.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=acdf9ac7ad4b53982222b841db937a6c 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FIMG_8681_2048.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=36abc98038128b0bcc1a8f80cbee09a0 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FIMG_8681_2048.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=b4fc99499d8a218073f449f145b34a4e 1200w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FIMG_8681_2048.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=fec0d48fa2eeea489a2e837f4154e0ec 1400w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FIMG_8681_2048.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=72e39df22b56850ba3dda5df07e29da2 1600w)
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Descending the boulder field, top, and steep climber’s trail, bottom.
After our climb, we reflected on our experience. The wilderness cleared our minds and made us recognize what is important. The act of climbing challenged our bodies, and the clear mountain air re-invigorated us. It is these types of experiences that make us continue to return to wild places and challenge ourselves in beautiful alpine environments.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FIMG_8687_2048.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=019a6a6a461211cad933695384202ed0 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FIMG_8687_2048.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=e956814a2afbccae7f03c3482498359f 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FIMG_8687_2048.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=5cc75bfe54f5f8d6f952f3c00b255057 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FIMG_8687_2048.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=a7d5abc5844ad71f1c3d71c2d6855aef 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FIMG_8687_2048.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=8b6dd9361e761fea9d410734cdd07670 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FIMG_8687_2048.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=fd95d7c33eb5d3444a9073cf36173c36 1200w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FIMG_8687_2048.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=9e127703523149569e276c2641a3fd56 1400w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FIMG_8687_2048.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=0117dcf666a344d86b9da8745b3631f3 1536w)
Ken nearing the final river crossing to the parked car, at last!
Ken just completed his fourth summit in two weeks. With Adams, Baker, and Shuksan summits, the completion of Eldorado leaves only Glacier on his mission to complete five summits in a three-week period. At 60 years of age, he is truly showing that you are never too old to “make it happen”!
~Words and photos, Madness Guide Arthur Herlitzka