Mount Shuksan North Face
Mount Shuksan’s North Face is a classic snow and ice route that harbors all the challenges of a true “Nordwand” – a strenuous approach, remoteness, direct and sustained climbing, a high level of commitment, and a complicated descent. According to American climbing legend Fred Beckey, this peak “epitomizes the jagged alpine peak like no other massif in the North Cascades – it has no equal in the range when one considers the structural beauty of its four major faces and five ridges and the variety of routes they provide.”
This climb is done on a custom basis.
-
Trip Perks
Climbing is not an egoless sport, but even for the most humble climber an ascent of this route is a proud accomplishment and noteworthy. So, yes, there are some bragging rights that come along with this climb. And if you get down in time, you will undoubtedly start planning the next big North Cascades climb over a pizza at the North Fork Brewery, which is not to be missed!
-
Description
This seldom done climb is certainly more dramatic than any other route on the mountain and will really test your ability to go fast and light and cover a lot of ground during one outing. This route is really what the alpine climbing in the North Cascades is all about. Consider the North Face of Mount Shuksan if you want to test your fitness, enjoy veryaesthetic snow and ice routes, and want a true wilderness adventure.
This is an advanced level climb. Similar and previous experience required.
This trip involves the following:
- Glacier travel, steep snow, and exposed alpine rock
- Strenuous approach
- Snow and ice to 50 degrees with two ice tools
- Climbers should have the ability to follow mid-5th class rock with a medium-weight pack and move steadily for 10 – 12 hours
- Taxing and long descent involving belayed down climbing, lowering and rappelling
-
Alpine Climbing Grades
Grade I: Normally requires several hours; can be of any difficulty.
Grade II: Requires half a day; any technical difficulty
Grade III: Requires a day to do the technical portion; any technical difficulty
Grade IV: Requires a full day for the technical portion; the hardest pitch is usually no less than 5.7 (in the YDS rating)
Grade V: Requires a day and a half; the hardest pitch is usually 5.8 or harder
Grade VI: A multi-day excursion with difficult free climbing and/or aid climbing
Have a Question? Contact Us!
Price
-
Mount Shuksan North Face
from $1,350 – 3 Days
- 1:1 - $1,875 per person
- 2:1 - $1,350 per person
-
Price Includes
- All meals while on the mountain
- Tents
- Stoves
- Cook kits
- Group climbing equipment
- Guide services
-
Price Does Not Include
- Airfare
- Transportation — Clients will be responsible for their own and the guide’s(s’) transportation for the trip
- All additional fees — Camping, permit, parking, etc.
- Hotel accommodations
- Restaurant meals
- All personal equipment
- Travel insurance with trip cancellation, medical and evacuation policy
- Guide gratuities
-
Payment Schedule
- $400 deposit at time of registration, which includes a $200 non-refundable registration fee
- Balance due 90 days prior to departure
- The balance may be paid by check, wire transfer, ACH or credit card with a 3% convenience fee
Dates
Climb is Arranged on a Custom Basis — Contact Us
Policies
Cancellation / Refund Policy
- MMI strongly recommends trip cancellation/interruption and evacuation insurance for all trips. Our insurance partner, Ripcord, offers comprehensive travel insurance including trip cancellation, as well as rescue/evacuation policies and can assist in answering any questions. In addition, Participant is expected to have sufficient medical insurance as prescribed by their country of origin. Participant understands that MMI does not include any type of insurance with the cost of the trip.
- If you decide to cancel your trip or change your itinerary, MMI must be notified in writing. Your trip will be cancelled from the date written notice is received. If proper written cancellation notice is not received, amounts paid and reservations made will be forfeited.
- Non-refundable fees may apply for certain trips in order to secure permits and other services. MMI must strictly adhere to cancellation policies outside MMI’s control.
- Due to the personalized service we offer on our trips, MMI reserves the right to waive any fees. We will attempt to accommodate changes and cancellations, waiving certain fees when feasible.
- Circumstances outside the control of MMI and its partners, may require amended cancellation/refund policies. Such circumstances may include, but are not limited to COVID-19, natural disasters, wildfires, terrorism and so forth.
Domestic Trips/Courses:
- Full refund, less the non-refundable registration fee, will be provided 91 days or more before the departure date
- No refunds will be provided 90 days or less before the departure date
Trip Insurance
We strongly recommend the purchase of travel cancellation insurance to protect you from the unexpected. You aren’t likely to think of it now, but people do get ill, break a bone, have a family emergency or get assigned to a last-minute business trip. If you are in remote areas, please note that emergency rescue & evacuation can be very expensive.
We also strongly urge you to consider rescue and evacuation insurance if your own policy does not provide the coverage needed. Services available may include, but are not limited to, helicopter evacuation, medical care, etc.
If you choose not to purchase insurance, you assume full responsibility for any expenses incurred in the event of a medical emergency and/or evacuation, as well as for trip cancellation, interruption, lost luggage, etc. We are not the experts and therefore ask that you please consult our travel insurance partner directly with any specific questions.
To protect against losses due to illness, accident, or other unforeseen circumstances, Mountain Madness strongly recommends the purchase of travel insurance as soon as possible after making a deposit. Mountain Madness has partnered with Redpoint Resolutions as our preferred travel insurance provider. Redpoint’s Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ is designed for adventurers.
For a quote, or to purchase travel insurance, please click this link Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ or call +1 – 415-481‑0600. Pricing varies based on age, trip cost, trip length, and level of coverage.
Critical benefits of Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance include:
- A completely integrated program with a single point of contact for emergency services, travel assistance, and insurance claims
- Evacuation and rescue services from your point of injury or illness to your hospital of choice
- Comprehensive travel insurance for trip cancellation/interruption, primary medical expense coverage, baggage loss or delay, emergency accident and emergency sickness medical expense, emergency dental, accidental death and dismemberment, and more
- Optional security evacuation coverage in case of an unplanned natural disaster or other security events
- Waiver for pre-existing conditions (must be purchased within 14 days of tour deposit)
- Optional “Cancel for Any Reason” coverage (must be purchased within 14 days of tour deposit)
Itinerary
Flight Information
For scheduled courses and climbs, you should fly into Seattle-Tacoma International Airport (SeaTac). You are responsible for your transportation to downtown Seattle (see suggestions). You will meet as a group with your guide(s) at 7 am for an orientation meeting and equipment check.
Mount Shuksan North Face Day by Day
-
Day 1
The drive from Seattle to the trailhead takes approximately 3.5 hours. Our approach begins by Artist Point and is adjacent to the famed Mt. Baker Ski area (holder of the world record seasonal snowfall of 1,040 inches / 2642 centimeters in 1998 – 1999). The hike to base camp takes from 3 – 4 hours — passing through high alpine meadows and clusters of Mountain Hemlock before climbing to a We’ll follow the trail past Lake Ann, and climb the Fisher Chimneys to our high camp at Winnies Slide.
-
Day 2
Summit day begins with a pre-dawn start. The first section involves a descent of the White Salmon Glacier to the base of the North Face of Shuksan. After a climb of the Nort Face, you will continue up the summit pyramid of Mount Shuksan, with sections of 5.5 ‑5.6 rock. The summit of Mount Shuksan is perhaps one of the finest vantage points in all of the North Cascades! The descent is made by reversing the climbing route. Expect this to take upwards of 5 hours.
-
Day 3
After a leisurely breakfast, we break camp, and hike back to the Artist Point trailhead by noon or 1 pm. Expect to arrive back in Seattle by late afternoon or early evening. A popular stopover is at the North Fork Brewery (great pizza and beer) outside the town of Glacier.
Note on Itinerary: Although we do our very best to follow the schedule listed, the very nature of climbing in an alpine environment requires flexibility. This itinerary is subject to change due to inclement weather, unsafe route conditions, and other reasons beyond our control.
Equipment for Mount Shuksan North Face
-
Carrying Gear
-
Large capacity climbing pack (65-75L)
approximately 4000-4500 cubic inch (65-75 liters) capacity, avoid unnecessary options that add weight
Examples:
Black Diamond Mission 75, Osprey Ariel 65
-
-
Sleeping Gear
-
Expedition quality sleeping bag (15-20F)
One down or synthetic bag rated from 15-20°F /-9 to -7°C
Examples:
Marmot Helium, Marmot Trestles, Western Mountaineering Apache, North Face Guide 20
-
Sleeping pad (inflatable or closed cell foam)
A foam pad will be provided but a supplemental pad is recommended. This can be an inflatable or closed cell foam pad. Make sure to purchase a pad rated for cold conditions.
Examples:
Therm-a-Rest NeoAir & Therm-a-Rest Z Lite Sol
-
-
Climbing Gear
-
Alpine climbing harness
Must have adjustable leg loops and fit over all clothing
Examples:
Black Diamond Couloir, Petzl Altitude, Petzl Hirundos
-
Locking carabiners (3)
Three large, pear-shaped carabiners are best
Examples:
Black Diamond Rock Lock, Petzl William, Petzl Attache
-
Non-locking carabiners (2)
2 non-locking carabiners. wired straight-gates are recommended
Examples:
Black Diamond HotWire
-
Spinner leash
ice tool harness attachment points
Examples:
Black Diamond Spinner Leash
-
Technical mountaineering ice tools (pair)
or single mountaineering ice axe and single technical tool
Examples:
Petzl Sum'Tec, Petzl Quark, Black Diamond Venom, Black Diamond Cobra
-
Crampons w/ anti-balling plate
Steel 12-pont. Must be fit to climbing boots prior to trip, new-matic/hybrid type
Examples:
Black Diamond Sabretooth, Petzl Vasak
-
Climbing helmet
Lightweight
Examples:
Black Diamond Half Dome, Petzl Elios
-
30’ of perlon accessory cord (6mm)
30 feet of 6mm cord
Examples:
Sterling
-
Adjustable trekking poles
Three piece poles recommended
Examples:
Black Diamond Trail Back Pole
-
Belay device (plaquette)
Tube style
Examples:
Black Diamond ATC Guide, Petzl Reverso
-
-
Head and Face
-
Fleece or wool hat
It must cover the ears
-
Glacier glasses
100% UV protection with side shields and a hard-sided storage case
Examples:
Julbo
-
Shade hat or baseball cap
A visor hat with a good brim is essential for protection from the sun
Examples:
Mountain Madness trucker hat
-
Balaclava or neck gaiter (optional)
lightweight
-
-
Hands
-
Light weight work gloves
lightweight gloves with leather palm for rope work
Examples:
Black Diamond Transition Glove
-
Mid-weight gloves
1-2 pairs
Examples:
Black Diamond Punisher Glove
-
Heavyweight shell glove
Gore-tex or equivalent (trips before July)
Examples:
Black Diamond Enforcer Glove
-
-
Feet
-
Liner socks (optional)
1-pair lightweight and thin
Examples:
polypropylene or wool
-
Syntheric or wool socks
check boot fir to make sure they work together
Examples:
Smartwool ,Patagonia
-
Gaiters (optional)
Check fit with boots
Examples:
Outdoor Research Verglas or Crocodile
-
Insulated mountaineering boots (NW)
waterproof, insulated, crampon compatible, full shank boots. Many of these boots have Women specific equivalents (May –late June and Ice Climbs)
Examples:
Scarpa Mt Blanc, Scarpa Phantom Tech, La Sportiva Nepal Evo GTX, Salewa Vulture Vertical GTX
-
Approach shoes
hiking shoe with climbing specific sticky rubber (route and season dependent)
Examples:
La Sportiva Boulder X, La Sportiva TX3, Scarpa Crux, Scarpa Gecko, 5.10 Guide Tennie
-
-
Upper Body
-
Synthetic t-shirts
Two synthetic or merino wool t-shirts. No cotton!
-
Sports bras
Two, synthetic, no cotton!
-
Long-sleeved Base Layer
Two lightweight to mediumweight, pull-over is best
Examples:
Patagonia Capilene
-
Light weight synthetic jacket
light weight synthetic puffy or fleece
Examples:
Patagonia Nano Puff jacket
-
Softshell Jacket w/ hood
This is what you will be wearing while hiking at higher altitudes or while kicking around camps at lower altitude. This jacket should be full-zip
Examples:
Outdoor Research Ferrosi
-
Hardshell jacket w/ hood
A good jacket made of Gore-Tex (recommended) or waterproof nylon, roomy enough to fit over multiple layers
Examples:
Outdoor Research Foray, Patagonia Triolet
-
Down or synthetic jacket w/hood
This is your most important piece of warm gear and will mean the difference between an enjoyable climb or a miserable one. A warm, full zip jacket with hood is ideal.
Examples:
Helly Hansen Vanir, Feathered Friends Volant, Marmot Guide’s Down Hoody, Outdoor Research Virtuoso Hoody
-
Sun hoody
This piece with a high SPF rating and lightweight fabric offers protection from high altitude sun
Examples:
Outdoor Research
-
-
Lower Body
-
Long base layer
Two pairs light or mediumweight
Examples:
Patagonia Capilene
-
Softshell pants
Softshell pants are water resistant, yet highly breathable and durable. Great for colder conditions over a pair of long underwear or tights higher on the mountain or summit day
Examples:
Outdoor Research Voodoo, Mountain Hardwear Touren, Patagonia Guide
-
Hardshell pants
waterproof and breathable with side zips (minimum of ¾ zips recommended) Gore-Tex or equivalent
Examples:
Outdoor Research Furio, Arcteryx Beta AR
-
-
Miscellaneous
-
Bear Bag/Bear Canister
Bear bag or bear canister to protect your food from both bears and smaller critters
Examples:
Ursack AllMitey, BearVault,
-
Personal first aid kit (NW)
moleskin/blister kit, Band-aids, athletic tape, ibuprofen, personal medications, ect
-
Lip balm
Must have SPF rating of 20 or more. Bring two just in case!
-
Sunscreen
Bring plenty of sun block with SPF of 40 or more. It's easy to underestimate the amount necessary for your trip!
-
Hand sanitizer
enough to last trip length
-
Insect repellent
A must!
-
Headlamp
Bring extra batteries!
-
Water bottles
two 1 liter wide-mouth water bottles
Examples:
Nalgene
-
Hydration bladder (optional)
hydration bladder or water bag with drinking tube (must also have 1 Nalgene Bottle or equivalent)
-
Water purification (NW)
Purifies drinking water while on the climb
Examples:
Steri Pen, water filter, Potable Aqua, Polar Pure crystal iodine
-
Large plastic bowl
Bring a 2-4 cup camping bowl or a plastic "Rubbermaid" style container for your mountain dining
-
Insulated cup (12-16oz)
A 12-16 oz (350-500 ml) mug with an attached lid will help keep you hydrated
-
Lexan spoon or spork
Lightweight and strong
-
Pocket knife or multitool
Simple Swiss Army type with scissors. Make sure you transport in checked bag, not carry-on!
-
Toiletry kit (NW)
toilet paper stored in double zip lock bags
-
Nylon stuff sacks
for food and gear storage, large ziplocs are useful
-
Large plastic bags
heavy duty trash compactor bags recommended
-
Bandana (optional)
lightweight
-
Snacks (general)
Bring your favorite snacks and power/energy bars or if there is something else you particularly like to eat while hiking and climbing
-
Camera (optional)
or any sort of device that takes pictures
-
Soap, shampoo, towel (optional)
for use at campground showers when on itinerary
-
Travel clothing
Comfortable clothing for travel before and after the expedition
-
-
Book Trip
Mount Shuksan North Face
from $1,350
3 Days
- 1:1 - $1,875 per person
- 2:1 - $1,350 per person
Elevation
9127 ft / 2782 m
Route
North Face
Grade
IV
Difficulty
Advanced
Climbers should be comfortable on 45 to 60 degree snow/ice slopes, waterfall ice climbing up to WI2-WI3, and/or moderate rock from 5.6-5.8+. Participants will have a well-rounded history of climbing experience.
Share
-
Email -
Facebook -
Pinterest -
Twitter
