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Glacier, Alpine, and Waterfall Ice Climbing defined
What does the North Ridge of Mount Baker, mountaineering on the Easton Glacier of Mount Baker, and Ouray ice climbing have in common? First, all involve some form of frozen water. Second, you need sharp pointy things, like your ice axe and crampons. The differences diverge quite a bit from there.
Getting out on a glacier climb is the entry level experience, from there you can find a wide range of both the difficulties and the medium you are climbing; it could be easy going glacier climbing on seasonal snow or a steeper alpine ice route that involves frozen snow (neve) to give you the proper conditions. And then there’s frozen waterfall ice, the more technical climbing done in winter.
Let’s get started.
![Ice climbing in Ouray Ice Park Colorado with Mountain Madness](https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/blog/Ice-climbing-in-Ouray-Ice-Park-Colorado-with-Mountain-Madness.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1833&q=80&w=2200&s=2f8d80a1cb026126d87ce8c3f6776ac2 2200w 1833h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/blog/Ice-climbing-in-Ouray-Ice-Park-Colorado-with-Mountain-Madness.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1667&q=80&w=2000&s=fb3ad0def22a5f5fb28ac2406f082273 2000w 1667h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/blog/Ice-climbing-in-Ouray-Ice-Park-Colorado-with-Mountain-Madness.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1500&q=80&w=1800&s=a18903b0f64509c1907bc40e1a9bc1a7 1800w 1500h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/blog/Ice-climbing-in-Ouray-Ice-Park-Colorado-with-Mountain-Madness.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1333&q=80&w=1600&s=d7642dcc67905a92d83cfd73f0b5e9bd 1600w 1333h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/blog/Ice-climbing-in-Ouray-Ice-Park-Colorado-with-Mountain-Madness.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1167&q=80&w=1400&s=064a054d2a5a5612d33a1c27061c7378 1400w 1167h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/blog/Ice-climbing-in-Ouray-Ice-Park-Colorado-with-Mountain-Madness.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1000&q=80&w=1200&s=742f29721d68edaa0476daac95be0358 1200w 1000h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/blog/Ice-climbing-in-Ouray-Ice-Park-Colorado-with-Mountain-Madness.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=833&q=80&w=1000&s=792a602b9e328e6fef773480fd158099 1000w 833h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/blog/Ice-climbing-in-Ouray-Ice-Park-Colorado-with-Mountain-Madness.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=667&q=80&w=800&s=8ec99aac2f39e3396672551b83cd6cdc 800w 667h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/blog/Ice-climbing-in-Ouray-Ice-Park-Colorado-with-Mountain-Madness.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=500&q=80&w=600&s=7c1488552a0421a0ce307b76e85755fe 600w 500h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/blog/Ice-climbing-in-Ouray-Ice-Park-Colorado-with-Mountain-Madness.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=333&q=80&w=400&s=def7d2dc419700632b86fa7e59876dba 400w 333h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/blog/Ice-climbing-in-Ouray-Ice-Park-Colorado-with-Mountain-Madness.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=167&q=80&w=200&s=ccbf8dbb2e5a6c40ba525691f5465543 200w 167h)
Glacier climbing- what the heck is that? Am I climbing ice on a glacier climb, or what?
Glacier Mountaineering: By definition, glaciers are frozen, moving bodies of ice- so yes, a glacier climb like Mount Baker’s Easton Glacier could be called an ice climb. But, glacier climbs are all about terrain. What you’ll find are low angled slopes of glacier that allow for walking, but may occasionally require the use of an ice axe and crampons. It’s here that beginners can find their way without too much, if any, technical difficulties. Requirements for this type of climb are simple enough:
- A sense of adventure and ready to learn- all skills on climbs like the Easton Glacier can be gained while on the trip
- Good physical fitness
- The necessary equipment
![Ascending snow field from camp](https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/blog/Ascending-snow-field-from-camp.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=864&q=80&w=2200&s=e42ddfa79d8e5ba956f74d55c422d652 2200w 864h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/blog/Ascending-snow-field-from-camp.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=786&q=80&w=2000&s=8c7bde5690aae10bdd2c8fa553976ce6 2000w 786h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/blog/Ascending-snow-field-from-camp.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=707&q=80&w=1800&s=7c9b5447b1dcbf92f80bf718f9b60f0b 1800w 707h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/blog/Ascending-snow-field-from-camp.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=629&q=80&w=1600&s=13b0950fe8ad272940869640203aee72 1600w 629h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/blog/Ascending-snow-field-from-camp.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=550&q=80&w=1400&s=2fbdcc9b9292a6b2ecb8b8f169d739dc 1400w 550h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/blog/Ascending-snow-field-from-camp.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=471&q=80&w=1200&s=0779ed49134adbeea2348ec9e4843684 1200w 471h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/blog/Ascending-snow-field-from-camp.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=393&q=80&w=1000&s=e0706e719ef8dee073452cc5df55547d 1000w 393h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/blog/Ascending-snow-field-from-camp.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=314&q=80&w=800&s=503269ba4e5ead6174b2de132db20b0c 800w 314h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/blog/Ascending-snow-field-from-camp.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=236&q=80&w=600&s=b6d5bfd3f2b78cd00593d6943451d0a2 600w 236h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/blog/Ascending-snow-field-from-camp.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=157&q=80&w=400&s=95806a6b06409cd27d5397e90e9432f9 400w 157h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/blog/Ascending-snow-field-from-camp.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=79&q=80&w=200&s=9ddeaa3e107b63f7307808a98d7256f0 200w 79h)
What is the difference between the frozen waterfalls of Ouray, Colorado and for example, the North Ridge of Mount Baker?
Alpine Ice: Instead of short steep routes on waterfall ice that sometimes are only 100 feet high or less, alpine ice climbing takes place on the airy alpine ridges and big snow/ice faces; so we’re talking up to 2,000-feet+ routes on Cascade ice routes, to the monster faces in the Himalayas and Andes. Here its not all about just swinging your ice tools overhead to get your placement, its just going to require different different techniques- take a course to get it started with the Alpine Ice Course or the Mount Baker Ice Climbing Essentials.
- On the Cascades classic ice routes such as the North Ridge of Mount Baker rarely are there waterfall ice conditions encountered. Routes like the North Face of Mount Shuksan, or the North Face of Mount Buckner or Maude, take place on terrain the 40 – 60 degree angle, with usually frozen snow the medium. As a result, different techniques are used and only occasionally will you be using your ice tools overhead in piolet traction.
- Cramponing techniques also vary from French technique, which provides multiple or all points on the ice, or an American hybrid technique using one crampon in French and the other front pointing.
- While there is some cross-over in techniques used, it can be said that alpine ice and waterfall ice techniques are different.
On the North Ridge of Mount Baker you will transition from alpine ice climbing techniques on about 40 degree slope to a 1 – 3 pitch section that you will use waterfall ice techniques as you work your way up the ice cliff section mid-route. On a route like the North Face of Mount Buckner you’ll use pure alpine ice techniques as you ascend a consistent grade of steepness over the 1,000−2,000 foot route. While a ice climber may enjoy the variety of moves, the alpine ice climber enjoys the rhythm, the predictability of each move and an increased ability to move efficiently as a result.
Alpine Ice is Nice!
![MM PHOTO CRP 003](https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/MM-PHOTO-CRP-003_2021-04-20-202212.f1618957244.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.6667&fp-y=0.5083&h=1833&q=80&w=2200&s=6d3347442ed29736898118227075b0ee 2200w 1833h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/MM-PHOTO-CRP-003_2021-04-20-202212.f1618957244.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.6667&fp-y=0.5083&h=1667&q=80&w=2000&s=ecbe5ad12c3273cd91e03cf8be6b7976 2000w 1667h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/MM-PHOTO-CRP-003_2021-04-20-202212.f1618957244.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.6667&fp-y=0.5083&h=1500&q=80&w=1800&s=cc44fbdf16d3dbaf7ac9409fde01b58e 1800w 1500h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/MM-PHOTO-CRP-003_2021-04-20-202212.f1618957244.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.6667&fp-y=0.5083&h=1333&q=80&w=1600&s=42adb1bc4c4c6abf045a4858fa1f59d1 1600w 1333h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/MM-PHOTO-CRP-003_2021-04-20-202212.f1618957244.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.6667&fp-y=0.5083&h=1167&q=80&w=1400&s=dac0b648005a131170adb319db10e5dc 1400w 1167h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/MM-PHOTO-CRP-003_2021-04-20-202212.f1618957244.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.6667&fp-y=0.5083&h=1000&q=80&w=1200&s=0269249f59666e28369fe70bc33bb9e3 1200w 1000h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/MM-PHOTO-CRP-003_2021-04-20-202212.f1618957244.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.6667&fp-y=0.5083&h=833&q=80&w=1000&s=28c41f171c2d3f4e2bd5b136f93407eb 1000w 833h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/MM-PHOTO-CRP-003_2021-04-20-202212.f1618957244.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.6667&fp-y=0.5083&h=667&q=80&w=800&s=7273083f45e675ce9bf39e595e3db222 800w 667h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/MM-PHOTO-CRP-003_2021-04-20-202212.f1618957244.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.6667&fp-y=0.5083&h=500&q=80&w=600&s=9c38b946c5eab787733b8cf99057e8db 600w 500h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/MM-PHOTO-CRP-003_2021-04-20-202212.f1618957244.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.6667&fp-y=0.5083&h=333&q=80&w=400&s=7cd6379301a5b691838b230ce7491534 400w 333h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/MM-PHOTO-CRP-003_2021-04-20-202212.f1618957244.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.6667&fp-y=0.5083&h=167&q=80&w=200&s=519b4212f8515d87f568285401b82620 200w 167h)
![2016 Contest Overall 83](https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/2016Contest_Overall-83.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1833&q=80&w=2200&s=42dbeeb1bb854112e609eeefc5de03be 2200w 1833h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/2016Contest_Overall-83.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1667&q=80&w=2000&s=ad705eee862a4046b3e088df169c0815 2000w 1667h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/2016Contest_Overall-83.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1500&q=80&w=1800&s=7815b044973455143649764efa001b41 1800w 1500h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/2016Contest_Overall-83.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1333&q=80&w=1600&s=8f3a552a14aff6dc00c9931771f786c4 1600w 1333h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/2016Contest_Overall-83.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1167&q=80&w=1400&s=ece1148763f4a068d62780ff844fd835 1400w 1167h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/2016Contest_Overall-83.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1000&q=80&w=1200&s=d898f01af01b3321e63ae5d669bde453 1200w 1000h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/2016Contest_Overall-83.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=833&q=80&w=1000&s=5fe58beea2628778df82a4d4bdf57b6b 1000w 833h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/2016Contest_Overall-83.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=667&q=80&w=800&s=4a17b7bfb7a4e0b0b09e147b5c9968ed 800w 667h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/2016Contest_Overall-83.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=500&q=80&w=600&s=1a70bdab8bbb765d67dbeacdc37e7299 600w 500h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/2016Contest_Overall-83.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=333&q=80&w=400&s=4a1ebdccd6009d38d917cdef827fa68d 400w 333h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/2016Contest_Overall-83.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=167&q=80&w=200&s=d66fad87133076029cf5fea9c3296697 200w 167h)
![For](https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/for.f1618957266.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.4984&fp-y=0.6181&h=1833&q=80&w=2200&s=21ac1cfc172613e01bda086d8a78d0b2 2200w 1833h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/for.f1618957266.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.4984&fp-y=0.6181&h=1667&q=80&w=2000&s=fb4a2aa53d94bcea513c9248400ecd1f 2000w 1667h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/for.f1618957266.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.4984&fp-y=0.6181&h=1500&q=80&w=1800&s=8917b7fb1e4a79da20115b256ede3c26 1800w 1500h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/for.f1618957266.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.4984&fp-y=0.6181&h=1333&q=80&w=1600&s=b90e2b76b3783f8b6d52424338635a95 1600w 1333h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/for.f1618957266.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.4984&fp-y=0.6181&h=1167&q=80&w=1400&s=51b4c2e03d155a3ff9d41d76d4f2dbd3 1400w 1167h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/for.f1618957266.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.4984&fp-y=0.6181&h=1000&q=80&w=1200&s=211856a786365439c4f1a2ace1c1c585 1200w 1000h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/for.f1618957266.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.4984&fp-y=0.6181&h=833&q=80&w=1000&s=d77f4fc8c95354bfbcf30b1ed1b1b2f6 1000w 833h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/for.f1618957266.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.4984&fp-y=0.6181&h=667&q=80&w=800&s=5dc7e9e10ad36e48a8f8d550cc87f6df 800w 667h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/for.f1618957266.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.4984&fp-y=0.6181&h=500&q=80&w=600&s=8ce2766610f7568e1cd1b91c5ceb934d 600w 500h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/for.f1618957266.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.4984&fp-y=0.6181&h=333&q=80&w=400&s=3a14f7216ea8c03ae76e850aa76f86ea 400w 333h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/for.f1618957266.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.4984&fp-y=0.6181&h=167&q=80&w=200&s=4fc7f8ef53deb9b2344a5d959af46079 200w 167h)
Waterfall Ice: The sounds of ice climbing frozen waterfalls – the pleasurable thwank of your pick going in with one swing, plates of ice cascading down from brittle ice breaking away, the screams of agony as your numb fingers warm up, your crampons crunching and your front points thunking, are as unique to ice climbing as the sport itself. One of the best places to experience it is in Ouray, Colorado where you can get guided climbs of the area’s classic, or you can take a curse if its your first time.
- It is generally colder, sometimes A LOT colder, determining not only your enjoyment, but also the type of ice you will encounter. With temps in the 20s-30s Fahrenheit you may encounter “hero ice,” which is the kind of ice provides easy to get, solid placements for your tools and ice screws. But, with temperatures in the let us say the 10 degrees above to minus 20 Fahrenheit this can change dramatically to hard, brittle, or chandeliered ice, all which can make getting good placements that much more difficult.
- Waterfall ice on the more technical sections always requires two ice tools and setting them overhead with aggressive swings, what as the French call piolet traction. Cramponing is generally using front points only, although occasional rest steps you are able to get more points in.
- In summary, the techniques used on frozen waterfalls is somewhat distinct to this medium when the ice is at a 50 – 90 degree angle.
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