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- Apr 20, 2021
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Ice Climbing, help the Ouray Ice Park, and Guides continuing education
The sounds of ice climbing – the pleasurable thwank of your pick going in with one swing, plates of ice cascading down from brittle ice breaking away, the screams of agony as your numb fingers warm up, your crampons crunching and your front points thunking, are as unique to ice climbing as the sport itself.
It was a great season as always in Ouray, Colorado this past winter with a full assortment of climbs and courses. We want to thank all who joined us, from Kate, who did her first multi-pitch ice route; to David who continued to polish his skills for bigger climbs in the mountains, and everybody else that enjoyed a great season on the ice, taking in the amenities of Ouray, and pushing limits and learning new skills.
![Steep ice climbing in Ouray Colorado instruction and guided climbs shutterstock 1281448048 f1605909197](https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Steep-ice-climbing-in-Ouray-Colorado-instruction-and-guided-climbs-shutterstock_1281448048.f1605909197_2021-01-13-202503.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1833&q=80&w=2200&s=1c92f8540bd9bd39692e8ef45973e31a 2200w 1833h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Steep-ice-climbing-in-Ouray-Colorado-instruction-and-guided-climbs-shutterstock_1281448048.f1605909197_2021-01-13-202503.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1667&q=80&w=2000&s=452132bbe1fe91de92a827b5d577ba81 2000w 1667h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Steep-ice-climbing-in-Ouray-Colorado-instruction-and-guided-climbs-shutterstock_1281448048.f1605909197_2021-01-13-202503.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1500&q=80&w=1800&s=2d21498fb95dc9a3c03fa68836fe69d7 1800w 1500h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Steep-ice-climbing-in-Ouray-Colorado-instruction-and-guided-climbs-shutterstock_1281448048.f1605909197_2021-01-13-202503.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1333&q=80&w=1600&s=222b736271fc016a4089ebbcfbe601aa 1600w 1333h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Steep-ice-climbing-in-Ouray-Colorado-instruction-and-guided-climbs-shutterstock_1281448048.f1605909197_2021-01-13-202503.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1167&q=80&w=1400&s=d2fbd8f70b6e6f80387b48e8332afac5 1400w 1167h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Steep-ice-climbing-in-Ouray-Colorado-instruction-and-guided-climbs-shutterstock_1281448048.f1605909197_2021-01-13-202503.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1000&q=80&w=1200&s=82f4c85485156f49cd2657a9036476ae 1200w 1000h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Steep-ice-climbing-in-Ouray-Colorado-instruction-and-guided-climbs-shutterstock_1281448048.f1605909197_2021-01-13-202503.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=833&q=80&w=1000&s=f0f2a73dc6cdb4825e2e2e5174f3850f 1000w 833h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Steep-ice-climbing-in-Ouray-Colorado-instruction-and-guided-climbs-shutterstock_1281448048.f1605909197_2021-01-13-202503.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=667&q=80&w=800&s=c97bc7a73ac7a6b98dce19922fc7292f 800w 667h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Steep-ice-climbing-in-Ouray-Colorado-instruction-and-guided-climbs-shutterstock_1281448048.f1605909197_2021-01-13-202503.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=500&q=80&w=600&s=74dd372f121cd83bee8e45cfe24fa8dd 600w 500h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Steep-ice-climbing-in-Ouray-Colorado-instruction-and-guided-climbs-shutterstock_1281448048.f1605909197_2021-01-13-202503.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=333&q=80&w=400&s=88ac90143a836997d7a01b15e706f383 400w 333h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Steep-ice-climbing-in-Ouray-Colorado-instruction-and-guided-climbs-shutterstock_1281448048.f1605909197_2021-01-13-202503.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=167&q=80&w=200&s=b0e96de45570f5a5ef22305b62742572 200w 167h)
And hats off to MM guides that knocked out additional training for themselves completing an American Mountain Guides Association Ice Instructor Course, continuing the process of becoming the best guides in the industry. Jake, Kyle, Sharon, Tagg, Peter, and Alex all completed the course — congrats!
![IMG 1243](https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/IMG_1243.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1833&q=80&w=2200&s=becdd6f861002489e5a7bc9d8ee84222 2200w 1833h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/IMG_1243.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1667&q=80&w=2000&s=0a3986e5c1656973de59a10158735841 2000w 1667h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/IMG_1243.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1500&q=80&w=1800&s=72a8dd7cee97d7e1fd3702d67df795f7 1800w 1500h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/IMG_1243.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1333&q=80&w=1600&s=e6079a52f6f511e8dfdeb727beace571 1600w 1333h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/IMG_1243.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1167&q=80&w=1400&s=9563d9e34860406a72ac9d99f11fea2d 1400w 1167h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/IMG_1243.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1000&q=80&w=1200&s=b418f249253016ae2de2913a37a8a2f0 1200w 1000h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/IMG_1243.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=833&q=80&w=1000&s=335753e1dd564c764554adbaa2f41f6e 1000w 833h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/IMG_1243.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=667&q=80&w=800&s=646c9177c0f17079987dfe46f175c4e0 800w 667h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/IMG_1243.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=500&q=80&w=600&s=ed3d31e8fc57540ca698687f9c11bc72 600w 500h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/IMG_1243.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=333&q=80&w=400&s=641345e136ae11958cf3b4829662d180 400w 333h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/IMG_1243.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=167&q=80&w=200&s=2aa37d5b22c2ccdec8012ced475de839 200w 167h)
![IMG 0809](https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/IMG_0809.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1833&q=80&w=2200&s=30ab183c7281908309e5845cdf78e44d 2200w 1833h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/IMG_0809.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1667&q=80&w=2000&s=59384bfa8011a7580df8a6ff5ebc6d1e 2000w 1667h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/IMG_0809.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1500&q=80&w=1800&s=986c47a0c339e5010de5104d18b2697f 1800w 1500h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/IMG_0809.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1333&q=80&w=1600&s=0650984a2cd63a8a79116564e8ac2f0f 1600w 1333h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/IMG_0809.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1167&q=80&w=1400&s=f0f3422263479bddb7bc1ba0f1949cb2 1400w 1167h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/IMG_0809.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1000&q=80&w=1200&s=335cea4f13e762da7353e5e842fd98df 1200w 1000h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/IMG_0809.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=833&q=80&w=1000&s=7e1eea8f09b6a7d0ab6e3cab9507e6b4 1000w 833h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/IMG_0809.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=667&q=80&w=800&s=c51ab0a756c58cdf15a41899c314477d 800w 667h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/IMG_0809.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=500&q=80&w=600&s=0a5802613427e7b2fc8c9479faeeb808 600w 500h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/IMG_0809.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=333&q=80&w=400&s=cb9ab36b7ac75b3f4c0575afc65eb2ea 400w 333h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/IMG_0809.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=167&q=80&w=200&s=77c1683f2c81f00b055de8e41b4fded8 200w 167h)
![933 C1 A45 1680 4 FE7 BCE3 4 FBE1 BF1 B6 C6](https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/933C1A45-1680-4FE7-BCE3-4FBE1BF1B6C6.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1833&q=80&w=2200&s=e0c3d4c1a1f6c3f5c6b2192daf661fa4 2200w 1833h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/933C1A45-1680-4FE7-BCE3-4FBE1BF1B6C6.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1667&q=80&w=2000&s=9470247f8a6f44c846d48b9a94b4426f 2000w 1667h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/933C1A45-1680-4FE7-BCE3-4FBE1BF1B6C6.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1500&q=80&w=1800&s=881ad65efb08e2ac406b56d11e5eaae0 1800w 1500h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/933C1A45-1680-4FE7-BCE3-4FBE1BF1B6C6.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1333&q=80&w=1600&s=b80190424953df858d5fcf2b62da3903 1600w 1333h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/933C1A45-1680-4FE7-BCE3-4FBE1BF1B6C6.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1167&q=80&w=1400&s=469468908285c5b6f378e4bc1098fd98 1400w 1167h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/933C1A45-1680-4FE7-BCE3-4FBE1BF1B6C6.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1000&q=80&w=1200&s=9b73add8ad356d9947664b02f4baeb3f 1200w 1000h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/933C1A45-1680-4FE7-BCE3-4FBE1BF1B6C6.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=833&q=80&w=1000&s=00dce31f58e6f93f93fa90795e6687d5 1000w 833h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/933C1A45-1680-4FE7-BCE3-4FBE1BF1B6C6.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=667&q=80&w=800&s=92649a96d6b9a835ac8cc6227177bbf8 800w 667h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/933C1A45-1680-4FE7-BCE3-4FBE1BF1B6C6.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=500&q=80&w=600&s=069df3c476c9766b197376be04f06ab7 600w 500h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/933C1A45-1680-4FE7-BCE3-4FBE1BF1B6C6.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=333&q=80&w=400&s=35b2c79335d1a361280a53ee5dd1b36c 400w 333h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/933C1A45-1680-4FE7-BCE3-4FBE1BF1B6C6.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=167&q=80&w=200&s=192a5c5981ce278c0045892f5dfa6ca0 200w 167h)
It was not all smooth sailing at the Ouray Ice Park this winter though. At the end of the season a blow to the park came in the form of a 12,000 pound rockfall, which knocked out a water supply line and damaged the trestle, the main entrance to the area. With less than $5,000 to go of their $100,000 goal, we encourage you to donate to help this non-profit Ouray Ice Park reach their goal and be able to fix the water supply and the trestle.
With funds and some hard work, the park will once again be up and running for the 2021 – 22 season. In the meantime, if you did not get enough ice, or none, last winter, no worries. Summer alpine ice in the North Cascades this summer should be ideal.
***********
What is the difference between the frozen waterfalls of Ouray and for example, the North Ridge of Mount Baker?
Waterfall Ice:
- It is generally colder, sometimes A LOT colder, determining not only your enjoyment, but also the type of ice you will encounter. With temps in the 20s-30s Fahrenheit you may encounter “hero ice,” which is the kind of ice provides easy to get, solid placements for your tools and ice screws. But, with temperatures in the let us say the 10 degrees above to minus 20 Fahrenheit this can change dramatically to hard, brittle, or chandeliered ice, all which can make getting good placements that much more difficult.
- Waterfall ice on the more technical sections always requires two ice tools and setting them overhead with aggressive swings, what as the French call piolet traction. Cramponing is generally using front points only, although occasional rest steps you are able to get more points in.
- In summary, the techniques used on frozen waterfalls is somewhat distinct to this medium when the ice is at a 50 – 90 degree angle.
![ice climbing Jeremy photo](https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/jeremy-photo.f1715282758.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1833&q=80&w=2200&s=40529520a15318de709bb792b2d97fb5 2200w 1833h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/jeremy-photo.f1715282758.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1667&q=80&w=2000&s=296be44b8cafa06484c796607e6fe49e 2000w 1667h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/jeremy-photo.f1715282758.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1500&q=80&w=1800&s=86ff5ef7f7092a71e73dcf20d89c3452 1800w 1500h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/jeremy-photo.f1715282758.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1333&q=80&w=1600&s=ffd1156aa38ece8c01f7cff205271a3b 1600w 1333h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/jeremy-photo.f1715282758.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1167&q=80&w=1400&s=d5b61e4347a8791cb442cf37bb6e0341 1400w 1167h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/jeremy-photo.f1715282758.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1000&q=80&w=1200&s=b1c8b56e071f2f459d392c172f130a47 1200w 1000h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/jeremy-photo.f1715282758.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=833&q=80&w=1000&s=beb127eb564ed9db3d90533b60102174 1000w 833h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/jeremy-photo.f1715282758.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=667&q=80&w=800&s=14d54fe2eb9b7316163921fc519bc3a0 800w 667h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/jeremy-photo.f1715282758.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=500&q=80&w=600&s=9a5d974c33512e84c8858b747634f81a 600w 500h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/jeremy-photo.f1715282758.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=333&q=80&w=400&s=7e3f244719553dc235847de8dba1f1f3 400w 333h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/jeremy-photo.f1715282758.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=167&q=80&w=200&s=bf7ddf8707b9129ec2c5a1bb2f701f36 200w 167h)
![Ouray Ice Park Libby Sherwood](https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Ice-Park-Libby-Sherwood.f1715282778.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1833&q=80&w=2200&s=5d00f2e1ce890871839cb501692ca68c 2200w 1833h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Ice-Park-Libby-Sherwood.f1715282778.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1667&q=80&w=2000&s=c6600ae29755c4fa0242ae628be9ad77 2000w 1667h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Ice-Park-Libby-Sherwood.f1715282778.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1500&q=80&w=1800&s=d031964f845d339ae5befb57701269b6 1800w 1500h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Ice-Park-Libby-Sherwood.f1715282778.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1333&q=80&w=1600&s=432ab78dbfc8b0b6111c35bc9cf8aa4f 1600w 1333h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Ice-Park-Libby-Sherwood.f1715282778.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1167&q=80&w=1400&s=487769a46ba63bc70880ace18ac3d41c 1400w 1167h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Ice-Park-Libby-Sherwood.f1715282778.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1000&q=80&w=1200&s=706e6642e205341a02e42571ba5a3ee9 1200w 1000h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Ice-Park-Libby-Sherwood.f1715282778.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=833&q=80&w=1000&s=f7a88b363cd948b0e06f8bb5d4fc481b 1000w 833h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Ice-Park-Libby-Sherwood.f1715282778.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=667&q=80&w=800&s=bbd5eb8dda4ca7804acd4c8ad9344226 800w 667h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Ice-Park-Libby-Sherwood.f1715282778.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=500&q=80&w=600&s=41a63bd1eb304de61ab01df707ea67a8 600w 500h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Ice-Park-Libby-Sherwood.f1715282778.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=333&q=80&w=400&s=2dd46e4cc5d845b6ca9743ab00e187d9 400w 333h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Ice-Park-Libby-Sherwood.f1715282778.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=167&q=80&w=200&s=24e50390b0d94cc9090cfac9013ae67f 200w 167h)
Alpine Ice:
- On the Cascades classic ice routes such as the North Ridge of Mount Baker rarely are there waterfall ice conditions encountered. Routes like the North Face of Mount Shuksan, or the North Face of Mount Buckner or Maude, take place on terrain the 40 – 60 degree angle, with usually frozen snow the medium. As a result, different techniques are used and only occasionally will you be using your ice tools overhead in piolet traction.
- Cramponing techniques also vary from French technique, which provides multiple or all points on the ice, or an American hybrid technique using one crampon in French and the other front pointing.
- While there is some cross-over in techniques used, it can be said that alpine ice and waterfall ice techniques are different.
![MM PHOTO CRP 003](https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/MM-PHOTO-CRP-003_2021-04-20-202212.f1618957244.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.6667&fp-y=0.5083&h=1833&q=80&w=2200&s=6d3347442ed29736898118227075b0ee 2200w 1833h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/MM-PHOTO-CRP-003_2021-04-20-202212.f1618957244.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.6667&fp-y=0.5083&h=1667&q=80&w=2000&s=ecbe5ad12c3273cd91e03cf8be6b7976 2000w 1667h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/MM-PHOTO-CRP-003_2021-04-20-202212.f1618957244.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.6667&fp-y=0.5083&h=1500&q=80&w=1800&s=cc44fbdf16d3dbaf7ac9409fde01b58e 1800w 1500h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/MM-PHOTO-CRP-003_2021-04-20-202212.f1618957244.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.6667&fp-y=0.5083&h=1333&q=80&w=1600&s=42adb1bc4c4c6abf045a4858fa1f59d1 1600w 1333h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/MM-PHOTO-CRP-003_2021-04-20-202212.f1618957244.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.6667&fp-y=0.5083&h=1167&q=80&w=1400&s=dac0b648005a131170adb319db10e5dc 1400w 1167h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/MM-PHOTO-CRP-003_2021-04-20-202212.f1618957244.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.6667&fp-y=0.5083&h=1000&q=80&w=1200&s=0269249f59666e28369fe70bc33bb9e3 1200w 1000h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/MM-PHOTO-CRP-003_2021-04-20-202212.f1618957244.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.6667&fp-y=0.5083&h=833&q=80&w=1000&s=28c41f171c2d3f4e2bd5b136f93407eb 1000w 833h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/MM-PHOTO-CRP-003_2021-04-20-202212.f1618957244.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.6667&fp-y=0.5083&h=667&q=80&w=800&s=7273083f45e675ce9bf39e595e3db222 800w 667h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/MM-PHOTO-CRP-003_2021-04-20-202212.f1618957244.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.6667&fp-y=0.5083&h=500&q=80&w=600&s=9c38b946c5eab787733b8cf99057e8db 600w 500h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/MM-PHOTO-CRP-003_2021-04-20-202212.f1618957244.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.6667&fp-y=0.5083&h=333&q=80&w=400&s=7cd6379301a5b691838b230ce7491534 400w 333h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/MM-PHOTO-CRP-003_2021-04-20-202212.f1618957244.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.6667&fp-y=0.5083&h=167&q=80&w=200&s=519b4212f8515d87f568285401b82620 200w 167h)
![2016 Contest Overall 83](https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/2016Contest_Overall-83.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1833&q=80&w=2200&s=42dbeeb1bb854112e609eeefc5de03be 2200w 1833h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/2016Contest_Overall-83.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1667&q=80&w=2000&s=ad705eee862a4046b3e088df169c0815 2000w 1667h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/2016Contest_Overall-83.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1500&q=80&w=1800&s=7815b044973455143649764efa001b41 1800w 1500h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/2016Contest_Overall-83.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1333&q=80&w=1600&s=8f3a552a14aff6dc00c9931771f786c4 1600w 1333h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/2016Contest_Overall-83.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1167&q=80&w=1400&s=ece1148763f4a068d62780ff844fd835 1400w 1167h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/2016Contest_Overall-83.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1000&q=80&w=1200&s=d898f01af01b3321e63ae5d669bde453 1200w 1000h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/2016Contest_Overall-83.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=833&q=80&w=1000&s=5fe58beea2628778df82a4d4bdf57b6b 1000w 833h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/2016Contest_Overall-83.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=667&q=80&w=800&s=4a17b7bfb7a4e0b0b09e147b5c9968ed 800w 667h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/2016Contest_Overall-83.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=500&q=80&w=600&s=1a70bdab8bbb765d67dbeacdc37e7299 600w 500h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/2016Contest_Overall-83.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=333&q=80&w=400&s=4a1ebdccd6009d38d917cdef827fa68d 400w 333h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/2016Contest_Overall-83.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=167&q=80&w=200&s=d66fad87133076029cf5fea9c3296697 200w 167h)
![For](https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/for.f1618957266.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.4984&fp-y=0.6181&h=1833&q=80&w=2200&s=21ac1cfc172613e01bda086d8a78d0b2 2200w 1833h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/for.f1618957266.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.4984&fp-y=0.6181&h=1667&q=80&w=2000&s=fb4a2aa53d94bcea513c9248400ecd1f 2000w 1667h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/for.f1618957266.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.4984&fp-y=0.6181&h=1500&q=80&w=1800&s=8917b7fb1e4a79da20115b256ede3c26 1800w 1500h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/for.f1618957266.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.4984&fp-y=0.6181&h=1333&q=80&w=1600&s=b90e2b76b3783f8b6d52424338635a95 1600w 1333h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/for.f1618957266.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.4984&fp-y=0.6181&h=1167&q=80&w=1400&s=51b4c2e03d155a3ff9d41d76d4f2dbd3 1400w 1167h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/for.f1618957266.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.4984&fp-y=0.6181&h=1000&q=80&w=1200&s=211856a786365439c4f1a2ace1c1c585 1200w 1000h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/for.f1618957266.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.4984&fp-y=0.6181&h=833&q=80&w=1000&s=d77f4fc8c95354bfbcf30b1ed1b1b2f6 1000w 833h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/for.f1618957266.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.4984&fp-y=0.6181&h=667&q=80&w=800&s=5dc7e9e10ad36e48a8f8d550cc87f6df 800w 667h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/for.f1618957266.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.4984&fp-y=0.6181&h=500&q=80&w=600&s=8ce2766610f7568e1cd1b91c5ceb934d 600w 500h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/for.f1618957266.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.4984&fp-y=0.6181&h=333&q=80&w=400&s=3a14f7216ea8c03ae76e850aa76f86ea 400w 333h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/for.f1618957266.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.4984&fp-y=0.6181&h=167&q=80&w=200&s=4fc7f8ef53deb9b2344a5d959af46079 200w 167h)
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Do you need to have skills of each type to do one or the other?
Absolutely not, but it always helps to have as many skills as possible. On the North Ridge of Mount Baker you will transition from alpine ice climbing techniques on about 40 degree slope to a 1 – 3 pitch section that you will use waterfall ice techniques as you work your way up the ice cliff section mid-route. On a route like the North Face of Mount Buckner you’ll use pure alpine ice techniques as you ascend a consistent grade of steepness over the 1,000−2,000 foot route. While a rock climber may enjoy the variety of moves, the alpine ice climber enjoys the rhythm, the predictability of each move and an increased ability to move efficiently as a result.
What to do now:
- Donate to Ouray Ice Park
- Check out some of our Cascades alpine ice routes and the Alpine Ice Climbing Course
- Take advantage of the expertise of our guides.
Ice is Nice!