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01 NW Face of Forbidden Dylan Taylor Photo

Forbidden Peak Northwest Face

Fred Beck­ey’s Cas­cade Alpine Guide” pret­ty much says it all — call­ing For­bid­den’s North­west Face an excep­tion­al climb of purity…its mixed char­ac­ter requires some gen­uine climb­ing and flex­i­ble alpine skills.” Fred, joined by Ed Coop­er (anoth­er esteemed Cas­ca­di­an climber) made the first ascent in July of 1959 and the route’s renowned sta­tus remains intact to this day. Pre­sent­ing the clas­sic alpine climb­ing dilem­ma — to car­ry-over” with overnight packs, or go light-and-fast from a high bivouac — many con­sid­er this route to be one of the best in an area known for great climbing. 

If you pre­fer a more mixed route, the North­west Face of the North Ridge offers snow/​ice climb­ing up to 50 degrees before reach­ing the North Ridge, where sol­id rock up to about 5.7 is encountered. 

This climb is done on a cus­tom basis. 

Price

  • For­bid­den Peak North­west Face

    from $975 – 3 Days

    • 1:1 - $1,500 per person
    • 2:1 - $975 per person

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Equipment

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  • For­bid­den Peak North­west Face

    from $975

    3 Days

    • 1:1 - $1,500 per person
    • 2:1 - $975 per person
    Book Trip

Elevation

8,815 ft / 2687 m

Route

North­west Face

Grade

III+ 5.8

Difficulty

Advanced

Climbers should be comfortable on 45 to 60 degree snow/ice slopes, waterfall ice climbing up to WI2-WI3, and/or moderate rock from 5.6-5.8. Participants will have a well-rounded history of climbing experience.