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Climbing courses, big alpine climbs, and big wilderness in the North Cascades National Park
Mountain Madness guide Alan Rousseau recounts an adventure-filled summer in the North Cascades. As a side note, Alan and MM guide Tino Villanueva just were awarded the Piolet de Oro, mountainering’s most prestigious award for the most notable climb of 2019. But, Alan is happy just to be out in the mountains with his guest when not pushing his own personal limits.
The North Cascades will always be a special place to me. It was where I cut my teeth into larger alpine objectives and began my guiding career over 13 years ago. The past few summers guiding in the European Alps has replaced my Cascades season. Given the current pandemic I switched my gaze closer to home for the summer 2020 season and returned to Washington State.
North Cascades National Park (NOCA) is a time capsule of sorts. The roads are primitive, and there is minimal infrastructure. In my humble opinion it is a look into how our public lands should be managed. While other national parks look more like Disney World, NOCA is largely an untouched wilderness ready for any motivated person to lace up their boots, put on a pack, and start walking. Moving through the mature forests it is easy for me to imagine what the first explorers to the area felt. As you move higher and break treeline there is often no evidence of modern society in sight.
![approach north cascades mountain madness](https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/north-cascades-climbing-approach-mountain-madnessIMG_3790.f1598309320.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1833&q=80&w=2200&s=402f3f735e65b9cd8553209201317582 2200w 1833h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/north-cascades-climbing-approach-mountain-madnessIMG_3790.f1598309320.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1667&q=80&w=2000&s=7fb56c605516a03375aa09d955e2deea 2000w 1667h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/north-cascades-climbing-approach-mountain-madnessIMG_3790.f1598309320.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1500&q=80&w=1800&s=6f41483ab21961989d7e2a03e8b203a0 1800w 1500h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/north-cascades-climbing-approach-mountain-madnessIMG_3790.f1598309320.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1333&q=80&w=1600&s=3fe7a8653028f12cd0c69fab96cd7e8a 1600w 1333h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/north-cascades-climbing-approach-mountain-madnessIMG_3790.f1598309320.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1167&q=80&w=1400&s=e26900bf5bdbc22f4ff0a034fe2c9f21 1400w 1167h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/north-cascades-climbing-approach-mountain-madnessIMG_3790.f1598309320.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1000&q=80&w=1200&s=bf40913be641be8eb67cb7d894ae9c31 1200w 1000h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/north-cascades-climbing-approach-mountain-madnessIMG_3790.f1598309320.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=833&q=80&w=1000&s=329cbeac3f80d4122578f70e103caba0 1000w 833h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/north-cascades-climbing-approach-mountain-madnessIMG_3790.f1598309320.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=667&q=80&w=800&s=250c00da53bad72034594be07a887094 800w 667h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/north-cascades-climbing-approach-mountain-madnessIMG_3790.f1598309320.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=500&q=80&w=600&s=251f962ac2440b618a46fb17ccbe62c4 600w 500h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/north-cascades-climbing-approach-mountain-madnessIMG_3790.f1598309320.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=333&q=80&w=400&s=575d511ec88f09958f6bcf95c617872a 400w 333h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/north-cascades-climbing-approach-mountain-madnessIMG_3790.f1598309320.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=167&q=80&w=200&s=82e74e4b8285f22be87bdfabc7885add 200w 167h)
![old growth forest on climbing approach mountain madness](https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/IMG_4070.f1598309381.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1833&q=80&w=2200&s=02ce4f59e25c7da362e6188fdff138ec 2200w 1833h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/IMG_4070.f1598309381.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1667&q=80&w=2000&s=5de6bc395fdca264e9234cd6ea37daa4 2000w 1667h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/IMG_4070.f1598309381.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1500&q=80&w=1800&s=df1a4406bda2d485df99cb26c7ce29f6 1800w 1500h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/IMG_4070.f1598309381.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1333&q=80&w=1600&s=0ddd73e904ee95f06b45b42e23f723e9 1600w 1333h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/IMG_4070.f1598309381.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1167&q=80&w=1400&s=26b0985bded08e5b836fff485d65069b 1400w 1167h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/IMG_4070.f1598309381.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1000&q=80&w=1200&s=58673b4d0e6e8e72ea6a0b02afa3f96f 1200w 1000h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/IMG_4070.f1598309381.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=833&q=80&w=1000&s=6f2085506ab7a8d5409834619aa3a42d 1000w 833h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/IMG_4070.f1598309381.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=667&q=80&w=800&s=ff07384f1aa0bb079144558f11d22897 800w 667h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/IMG_4070.f1598309381.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=500&q=80&w=600&s=72345b5feb3b13b4eea4dc2ab4fbe81e 600w 500h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/IMG_4070.f1598309381.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=333&q=80&w=400&s=ca2954609836c074a38d3169793b6a99 400w 333h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/IMG_4070.f1598309381.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=167&q=80&w=200&s=1417b5e089cbbfc5653bce238d9ab0bf 200w 167h)
![stream crossing north cascades national park mountain madness](https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/IMG_3996.f1598309355.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1833&q=80&w=2200&s=e71ff78a189b41805f13dc50125f3d38 2200w 1833h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/IMG_3996.f1598309355.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1667&q=80&w=2000&s=3e281a6e5fde76e416c48d1634bdf048 2000w 1667h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/IMG_3996.f1598309355.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1500&q=80&w=1800&s=f62e1d7e9a9473cbaced4b7f2c0393f2 1800w 1500h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/IMG_3996.f1598309355.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1333&q=80&w=1600&s=0becbad5fa03abc46325605babe88426 1600w 1333h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/IMG_3996.f1598309355.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1167&q=80&w=1400&s=e079d16bffb0b738a42bca8e0391438f 1400w 1167h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/IMG_3996.f1598309355.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1000&q=80&w=1200&s=7b73f4a4390045a7e56eba6e688af013 1200w 1000h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/IMG_3996.f1598309355.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=833&q=80&w=1000&s=9f539f705015386a58115f6ab698ea8e 1000w 833h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/IMG_3996.f1598309355.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=667&q=80&w=800&s=a46997293a1cc007a1ebfc2f41186aba 800w 667h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/IMG_3996.f1598309355.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=500&q=80&w=600&s=2ff71b1681a08e903f9b51e3e1a17263 600w 500h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/IMG_3996.f1598309355.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=333&q=80&w=400&s=7d97cdefee099d533e78ce8ebdf66f3e 400w 333h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/IMG_3996.f1598309355.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=167&q=80&w=200&s=fc5be450180a0b101faf3c74ab9d6cc9 200w 167h)
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fgeneral-images%2FIMG_4036.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=db82b7a15663b6d4c94b3d1c5d5a2885 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fgeneral-images%2FIMG_4036.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=a263c642208dbdb3a67c39e2fee6f21c 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fgeneral-images%2FIMG_4036.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=90dc747657b52475e17915b33d91704e 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fgeneral-images%2FIMG_4036.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=20ada9798847be0613532888e401a20a 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fgeneral-images%2FIMG_4036.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=bc10b3e1eda70549902bde2f1cae45a7 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fgeneral-images%2FIMG_4036.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=f5546ef7d839e95f10fbb1a540b66aa8 1200w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fgeneral-images%2FIMG_4036.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=22237ee7edef1b90c0f0f59ae766440f 1400w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fgeneral-images%2FIMG_4036.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=e4ab5f2edde1144ea714dd75d5f4a253 1600w)
Over the past couple months in Washington I found myself within the park boundaries for a few trips. The first was to do the Torment Forbidden Traverse with John. We have climbed together for a couple weeks in Europe, summiting Mont Blanc, the Eiger, and the Matterhorn. When our trip to Alaska was cancelled this spring, we began talking about a plan b to still do some climbing together in 2020. We decided on the Torment Forbidden traverse, which is one of my favorite objectives to guide. It is never overly hard climbing, but continually engaging as you move through consequential terrain. The climbing is very much like some of the classic ridges in the European Alps.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fgeneral-images%2Fsnow-ice-climbing-on-forbidden-peak-and-tormnt-traverse-nortth-cascades-national-park-mountain-madnessIMG_3812.f1598309516.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=6df44418975377e461888e9963eda4b3 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fgeneral-images%2Fsnow-ice-climbing-on-forbidden-peak-and-tormnt-traverse-nortth-cascades-national-park-mountain-madnessIMG_3812.f1598309516.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=1c670bf51ac36c535420cb227f605396 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fgeneral-images%2Fsnow-ice-climbing-on-forbidden-peak-and-tormnt-traverse-nortth-cascades-national-park-mountain-madnessIMG_3812.f1598309516.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=e67911b53fcf50481f56ede331cefc89 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fgeneral-images%2Fsnow-ice-climbing-on-forbidden-peak-and-tormnt-traverse-nortth-cascades-national-park-mountain-madnessIMG_3812.f1598309516.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=a1e41694fbef61548d1d5d06700f0c9c 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fgeneral-images%2Fsnow-ice-climbing-on-forbidden-peak-and-tormnt-traverse-nortth-cascades-national-park-mountain-madnessIMG_3812.f1598309516.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=0379e6c2b86478b733941b6f60fc6514 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fgeneral-images%2Fsnow-ice-climbing-on-forbidden-peak-and-tormnt-traverse-nortth-cascades-national-park-mountain-madnessIMG_3812.f1598309516.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=40b21fdb38f8583182abc2f3538ed344 1200w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fgeneral-images%2Fsnow-ice-climbing-on-forbidden-peak-and-tormnt-traverse-nortth-cascades-national-park-mountain-madnessIMG_3812.f1598309516.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=b5cb1985a0dd185676ce8dc451f8fa9b 1400w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fgeneral-images%2Fsnow-ice-climbing-on-forbidden-peak-and-tormnt-traverse-nortth-cascades-national-park-mountain-madnessIMG_3812.f1598309516.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=0b9ca68782efe5ea3ce3c08d61fcb5bc 1600w)
I also traveled across the Boston and Forbidden Glaciers to reach the NW rib of Forbidden Peak with a very capable father and son team. This committing objective essentially has you circumnavigate Forbidden Peak. As you approach from the south through Boston Basin, then you climb over the east flank of the mountain via sharkfin col, traverse below the NE face on the massive Boston glacier, then finally a descending traverse across the forbidden glacier below the North face. After all that, you are at the start of a 20-pitch rock climb to the summit of Forbidden!
![Crossing the Boston Glacier on way to Forbidden Peak in North Cascades National Park with Mountain Madness](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fgeneral-images%2FIMG_4009.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=ffc36ba99d8a7bf6baf4dbb83dd47805 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fgeneral-images%2FIMG_4009.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=28ecfaae4cd2573767a6df7669d38670 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fgeneral-images%2FIMG_4009.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=93d9873be88f3c511c745a72fe82f226 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fgeneral-images%2FIMG_4009.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=6ca085ea9216f5052c8c0fc7f1cb8690 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fgeneral-images%2FIMG_4009.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=0528a1227c2eb689680a88511b1b74ed 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fgeneral-images%2FIMG_4009.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=376b17114d78fe13215d4cfa8a293830 1200w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fgeneral-images%2FIMG_4009.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=012463ae828904c8921ac757a76027b3 1400w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fgeneral-images%2FIMG_4009.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=e098bc393ded93d1ad861ddccc624485 1600w)
![On Northwest Face rib of Forbidden Peak North Cascades National Park Mountain Madness](https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Alpine-rock-climbing-on-Forbidden-Peak-Mountain-MadnessIMG_4025.f1598309663.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1826&q=80&w=2200&s=8625e2c99ef3718d860a9384565f1835 2200w 1826h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Alpine-rock-climbing-on-Forbidden-Peak-Mountain-MadnessIMG_4025.f1598309663.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1660&q=80&w=2000&s=cda0c78708d870b17575bb5c45a2b0ab 2000w 1660h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Alpine-rock-climbing-on-Forbidden-Peak-Mountain-MadnessIMG_4025.f1598309663.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1494&q=80&w=1800&s=f3ff1427dcd5f3548b2d030b9a8fba15 1800w 1494h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Alpine-rock-climbing-on-Forbidden-Peak-Mountain-MadnessIMG_4025.f1598309663.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1328&q=80&w=1600&s=9a8c7a5684008165f4a8d661cf53875f 1600w 1328h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Alpine-rock-climbing-on-Forbidden-Peak-Mountain-MadnessIMG_4025.f1598309663.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1162&q=80&w=1400&s=812830b64a0f00162f4b0be0ccad6112 1400w 1162h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Alpine-rock-climbing-on-Forbidden-Peak-Mountain-MadnessIMG_4025.f1598309663.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=996&q=80&w=1200&s=e527c140babcdbec5dbe19e267d776a7 1200w 996h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Alpine-rock-climbing-on-Forbidden-Peak-Mountain-MadnessIMG_4025.f1598309663.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=830&q=80&w=1000&s=bc4de701644cf88e21c16a686dd2a1f6 1000w 830h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Alpine-rock-climbing-on-Forbidden-Peak-Mountain-MadnessIMG_4025.f1598309663.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=664&q=80&w=800&s=ee6f643d1cab944b20d4cbc81cf87af9 800w 664h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Alpine-rock-climbing-on-Forbidden-Peak-Mountain-MadnessIMG_4025.f1598309663.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=498&q=80&w=600&s=9cbdad293dafffc82d76104ad883b7de 600w 498h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Alpine-rock-climbing-on-Forbidden-Peak-Mountain-MadnessIMG_4025.f1598309663.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=332&q=80&w=400&s=269453a9b2bbaf43257e6616ef25f020 400w 332h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Alpine-rock-climbing-on-Forbidden-Peak-Mountain-MadnessIMG_4025.f1598309663.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=166&q=80&w=200&s=5d08183dbe7fbe23e4d75530ed49dc1c 200w 166h)
![High on the Northwest Rib of Forbidden Peak Mountain Madness](https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Great-rock-on-NW-Ridge-of-Forbidden-Peak-Mountain-Madness-IMG_3823.f1598310890.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.511&fp-y=0.6051&h=1826&q=80&w=2200&s=6f113bc7697fc1e5553fe3853ac70e3c 2200w 1826h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Great-rock-on-NW-Ridge-of-Forbidden-Peak-Mountain-Madness-IMG_3823.f1598310890.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.511&fp-y=0.6051&h=1660&q=80&w=2000&s=2388bd2769d392458172d75acf335908 2000w 1660h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Great-rock-on-NW-Ridge-of-Forbidden-Peak-Mountain-Madness-IMG_3823.f1598310890.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.511&fp-y=0.6051&h=1494&q=80&w=1800&s=355a1bd793b000dda38fe6d6ea136380 1800w 1494h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Great-rock-on-NW-Ridge-of-Forbidden-Peak-Mountain-Madness-IMG_3823.f1598310890.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.511&fp-y=0.6051&h=1328&q=80&w=1600&s=e3a4f58573570bfe883e36cfda794eb6 1600w 1328h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Great-rock-on-NW-Ridge-of-Forbidden-Peak-Mountain-Madness-IMG_3823.f1598310890.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.511&fp-y=0.6051&h=1162&q=80&w=1400&s=2c1c6919a0c0b6de8450bf78a2d548f1 1400w 1162h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Great-rock-on-NW-Ridge-of-Forbidden-Peak-Mountain-Madness-IMG_3823.f1598310890.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.511&fp-y=0.6051&h=996&q=80&w=1200&s=534ca4ebca614846a8784aac9829b270 1200w 996h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Great-rock-on-NW-Ridge-of-Forbidden-Peak-Mountain-Madness-IMG_3823.f1598310890.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.511&fp-y=0.6051&h=830&q=80&w=1000&s=486c3ecd6fdfa91c58bde88de49fbcf4 1000w 830h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Great-rock-on-NW-Ridge-of-Forbidden-Peak-Mountain-Madness-IMG_3823.f1598310890.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.511&fp-y=0.6051&h=664&q=80&w=800&s=986db681692e47fc6d5fc9940a16c46d 800w 664h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Great-rock-on-NW-Ridge-of-Forbidden-Peak-Mountain-Madness-IMG_3823.f1598310890.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.511&fp-y=0.6051&h=498&q=80&w=600&s=3453a9010410b6739d20d96a08a8fe67 600w 498h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Great-rock-on-NW-Ridge-of-Forbidden-Peak-Mountain-Madness-IMG_3823.f1598310890.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.511&fp-y=0.6051&h=332&q=80&w=400&s=a3c2d73a86e877c7bcdc28a2f955194f 400w 332h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Great-rock-on-NW-Ridge-of-Forbidden-Peak-Mountain-Madness-IMG_3823.f1598310890.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.511&fp-y=0.6051&h=166&q=80&w=200&s=2733900adb9383756ae3d4793c8ed459 200w 166h)
My summer guiding season ended with five days around the Inspiration and Eldorado glaciers on an Intermediate mountaineering course. This big glacial system is home to some dramatic terrain. It’s a great place to teach skills that will help people progress to the next level in climbing. On this course in addition to covering a lot of skills, we were able to climb Eldorado, Klawatti Peak, and a Tepeh Tower.
![Intermediate mountaineering course in North Cascades Eldorado Peak and Mountain Madness](https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Mountaineering-course-in-the-North-Cascades-Mountain-Madness-IMG_4080.f1598309793.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1826&q=80&w=2200&s=c3e8490ee155bd7418f19eebc5bec164 2200w 1826h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Mountaineering-course-in-the-North-Cascades-Mountain-Madness-IMG_4080.f1598309793.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1660&q=80&w=2000&s=c0dac5ed79f2c111145463eaec98329b 2000w 1660h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Mountaineering-course-in-the-North-Cascades-Mountain-Madness-IMG_4080.f1598309793.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1494&q=80&w=1800&s=4fbb2002159bfc92ae80893ab7cb2f53 1800w 1494h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Mountaineering-course-in-the-North-Cascades-Mountain-Madness-IMG_4080.f1598309793.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1328&q=80&w=1600&s=ed1c10c03b04fa4b37d8743a36316200 1600w 1328h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Mountaineering-course-in-the-North-Cascades-Mountain-Madness-IMG_4080.f1598309793.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1162&q=80&w=1400&s=68fca8a6a7787b37708151adbff48794 1400w 1162h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Mountaineering-course-in-the-North-Cascades-Mountain-Madness-IMG_4080.f1598309793.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=996&q=80&w=1200&s=cf552dfd6308d932e4c4ae1c70f53958 1200w 996h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Mountaineering-course-in-the-North-Cascades-Mountain-Madness-IMG_4080.f1598309793.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=830&q=80&w=1000&s=6d8b22516eb2fefa92a8b49e6c06c28c 1000w 830h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Mountaineering-course-in-the-North-Cascades-Mountain-Madness-IMG_4080.f1598309793.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=664&q=80&w=800&s=f2042b9e08fe3d0c5c448f4bf7ffd562 800w 664h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Mountaineering-course-in-the-North-Cascades-Mountain-Madness-IMG_4080.f1598309793.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=498&q=80&w=600&s=f1700d6bbb905fa530fa84f276292c37 600w 498h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Mountaineering-course-in-the-North-Cascades-Mountain-Madness-IMG_4080.f1598309793.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=332&q=80&w=400&s=4afd0004f9bd023c85397a6f88e3cbdf 400w 332h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Mountaineering-course-in-the-North-Cascades-Mountain-Madness-IMG_4080.f1598309793.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=166&q=80&w=200&s=b3b9b1a706e5fe9423fd9fcc09167974 200w 166h)
![Room with a view North Cascades National Park Mountain Madness](https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Climbing-school-with-a-view-North-Cascades-National-Park-Mountain-MadnessIMG_4096_2020-08-24-224608.f1598309841.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1826&q=80&w=2200&s=e8a1c9f2cbb1ba8e46fe070321575c30 2200w 1826h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Climbing-school-with-a-view-North-Cascades-National-Park-Mountain-MadnessIMG_4096_2020-08-24-224608.f1598309841.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1660&q=80&w=2000&s=955d5aeb88000b31abb3a7b7f40329ea 2000w 1660h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Climbing-school-with-a-view-North-Cascades-National-Park-Mountain-MadnessIMG_4096_2020-08-24-224608.f1598309841.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1494&q=80&w=1800&s=7e21e660f3ec305227ff175aa0aaa1ce 1800w 1494h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Climbing-school-with-a-view-North-Cascades-National-Park-Mountain-MadnessIMG_4096_2020-08-24-224608.f1598309841.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1328&q=80&w=1600&s=0a75017d00bae034f04597c6919ad297 1600w 1328h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Climbing-school-with-a-view-North-Cascades-National-Park-Mountain-MadnessIMG_4096_2020-08-24-224608.f1598309841.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1162&q=80&w=1400&s=f3c2fb40e142a7bdd79f51b470614663 1400w 1162h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Climbing-school-with-a-view-North-Cascades-National-Park-Mountain-MadnessIMG_4096_2020-08-24-224608.f1598309841.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=996&q=80&w=1200&s=1fd9eb533dc7fceb64d2910e8444ce54 1200w 996h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Climbing-school-with-a-view-North-Cascades-National-Park-Mountain-MadnessIMG_4096_2020-08-24-224608.f1598309841.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=830&q=80&w=1000&s=bb8c68c183ad22850a310a84321dfde1 1000w 830h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Climbing-school-with-a-view-North-Cascades-National-Park-Mountain-MadnessIMG_4096_2020-08-24-224608.f1598309841.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=664&q=80&w=800&s=f37ebf522d0cf90f848e39b988049ff1 800w 664h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Climbing-school-with-a-view-North-Cascades-National-Park-Mountain-MadnessIMG_4096_2020-08-24-224608.f1598309841.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=498&q=80&w=600&s=6a0a5eff0908b22c57ed1c9502d1f3d9 600w 498h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Climbing-school-with-a-view-North-Cascades-National-Park-Mountain-MadnessIMG_4096_2020-08-24-224608.f1598309841.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=332&q=80&w=400&s=23bb4282c22b6046f3a9d1250f234bb6 400w 332h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Climbing-school-with-a-view-North-Cascades-National-Park-Mountain-MadnessIMG_4096_2020-08-24-224608.f1598309841.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=166&q=80&w=200&s=135bc788f5fa11cfc8d8cc754ca2e4e8 200w 166h)
I was grateful this summer to be able to continue to practice my craft. I am hopeful despite what happens in the populated zones of the world, the North Cascades will continue to be a great wilderness. Thank you to everyone that joined me in the mountains this summer, I hope we all get the chance to rope up again in the future.