Perfect Weather on the Torment Traverse
Over the past three years Amy has racked up an impressive list of expedition climbs and treks, ranging from snowboarding from the summit of Elbrus, to Everest base camp treks with her kids. Recently like many mountaineers, Amy decided to learn to rock climb in order to apply rock craft to the mountains. She was a quick study, and soon found herself wanting to experience the realm of alpine rock climbing.
Climbing Mt. Torment — Photo by Amy Godfrey
Given Amy’s high fitness level and newly acquired proficiency on rock, (and she is a Seattle local) the Torment Forbidden Traverse seemed like an ambitious yet attainable objective. So we set off with three days to try and get it done! We started off in light rain showers, but stayed optimistic due to an increasing high pressure the forecast promised. By the time we reached the Taboo glacier below Mt. Torment skies were clearing, and we decided to push onward to a nice little bivy ledge 5 pitches up the south ridge of Torment.
In the midst of the traverse — Photo by Amy Godfrey
After a surprisingly good night sleep on our small perch, we awoke at the civilized hour of 6am packed up and set off for Torment and beyond. The day was perfect, 65 sunny and not a breath of wind. We made steady progress through the rock towers, and steep snow. Around 4:00pm we hit the W. ridge col of forbidden. We found another great bivy site, dropped our overnight gear, and took off with light loads for an evening climb of the W. Ridge of Forbidden Peak. We enjoyed climbing with light packs and not feeling time pressure for the first time that day. After a leisurely 3.5 hour round trip on the west ridge we settled in for some dinner and a beautiful sunset after 12 and a half hours on route.
Boston Basin — Photo by Alan Rousseau
The next day a handful of rappels brought us back into Boston Basin where we had great views of the mile worth of technical terrain we had climbed over the previous 2 days. After a couple hours of sharing stories while descending the trail we arrived back at the car, and headed back onto the grid.
Thanks for a great trip!