Alan’s Torment Forbidden Traverse Report
A couple years back I met Gordon and Thiago in a 6 day glacier mountaineering course on Mount Shuksan. They were both intrigued by climbing in technical terrain and picked it up quickly. For this summer the lofty goal of climbing the Torment Forbidden was decided upon.
Psyched to climb the Torment-Forbidden Traverse!
Climbing the ice face.
Fortunately, a couple of beautiful bivy spots presented themselves as we ran out of steam a bit past the ice face. It was a great night except I picked up 4G cell service just long enough to find out Thiago’s homeland (Brazil) had been massacred by Germany in the World Cup. I had to show him my phone because he thought I was messing with him. For those of you who don’t know they lost 1 – 7, a possible record for worst beating in a World Cup match. The rest of the climb he would say “I’m hurting, but not as bad as the Brazilian team.”
Well-timed and scenic bivouac site.
The following day we continued on our mission to the base of Forbidden’s west ridge. Once we arrived in the notch all the overnight gear came out of our packs, and we ascended and descended the mega classic west ridge with light packs in the heat of the afternoon. That evening we all relaxed and enjoyed our dramatic position knowing we had completed the traverse and just had to descend the snow couloir the following morning.
Rockin’ the west ridge.
It was a great few days traversing an incredibly aesthetic ridge in the heart of the North Cascades. Thanks fellas, and I look forward to future adventures together.
~MM Guide Alan Rousseau