North Cascades Intermediate Alpine Mountaineering
Build your leadership skills and take it to the next level on your own trips
Over 5 days you will complete a traverse in the heart of the North Cascades on a small-scale expedition. A typical itinerary will find you up in the Eldorado zone in the North Cascades National Park. Here the Inspiration-Klawatti Icecap is found, along with multiple climbing objectives, which will provide great route finding challenges and a classic mountaineering experience.
Student leadership plays a key role in the trip planning, route choices and decision making. The goal of this course is to hone your leadership skills and increase your confidence with leading small parties in an alpine environment. Skills review will be a key part of the course as well before you take on leadership roles under the watchful eye of your guide. This course provides an excellent means to evaluate your skill-set, risk assessment strategies, and more, all in one of the wildest locations in the North Cascades.
Course curriculum includes:
- Review of equipment and climbing skills such as ice axe and crampons use for climbing moderate and steep snow and ice
- Snow and ice anchor placement, construction, and equalization
- Roped glacier travel, rope team management, route finding, and crevasse navigation
- Basic lead climbing techniques, intermediate protection, and multi-pitch snow and ice climbing
- Crevasse self rescue and team crevasse rescue scenarios
- Trip planning and navigation using a map, compass, and altimeter
- Hazard assessment including discussion of objective vs. subjective hazards, assessment of avalanche danger, crevasse fall, rock and ice fall.
- Proper clothing and climbing gear for survival in the high mountains, mountain weather, alpine ecology, efficient and self-dependent climbing techniques, and Leave No Trace ethics
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Course Perks
With global warming notably present in the North Cascades with documented with glacial recession, it’s comforting to know there is in certain areas large glaciers remaining in the lower 48 of the U.S. Your visit in the North Cascades National Park will include exploring the Inspiration-Klawatti Ice Cap — a wild place to be sure and an even better place to fine-tune your mountaineering skills.
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Description
The Inspiration-Klawatti Ice Cap, which is bordered by a multitude of peaks and spires, offers an incredible place for you to work on navigation skills, climb some peaks, and pull it all together in a leadership role. After moving the camp up to the glacier you spend four days reviewing skills and then under the scrutiny of your guide, you’ll take on the role of the leader, with possible ascents of Eldorado Peak. Expect to ask a lot of questions, the “what should I do,” for different scenarios while travelling on the mountains. (location subject to change based on conditions)
This is an intermediate level course. Similar and previous experience required.This course involves the following:
- Backpacking with loads of 40 – 50 lbs
- Backcountry camping and cooking skills
- Glacier travel
- Moderate snow, ice and alpine rock climbing
- Climbers should have the ability to follow varied alpine terrain with a pack and move steadily for 10 – 12 hours
- Climbers should be in excellent physical condition
- Backpacking with loads of 40 – 50 lbs
- Backcountry camping and cooking skills
- Glacier travel
- Moderate snow, ice and alpine rock climbing
- Climbers should have the ability to follow varied alpine terrain with a pack and move steadily for 10 – 12 hours
- Climbers should be in excellent physical condition
Have a Question? Contact Us!
Price
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North Cascades Intermediate Alpine Mountaineering
$1,375 – 5 Days
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Price Includes
- Guide services
- Ground transportation
- Tents
- Group climbing equipment
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Price Does Not Include
- Airfare
- Transportation within Seattle
- Meals while on the mountain
- Hotel accommodations
- Restaurant meals
- All personal equipment including stoves and cook kits
- Travel insurance with trip cancellation, medical and evacuation policy
- Guide gratuities
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Payment Schedule
- $400 deposit at time of registration, which includes a $200 non-refundable registration fee
- Balance due 90 days prior to departure
- The balance may be paid by check, wire transfer, ACH or credit card with a 3% convenience fee
Dates
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North Cascades Intermediate Alpine Mountaineering 2025
- May 23, 2025 — May 27, 2025
- Jun 13, 2025 — Jun 17, 2025
- Jul 18, 2025 — Jul 22, 2025
- Aug 1, 2025 — Aug 5, 2025
- Aug 29, 2025 — Sep 2, 2025
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North Cascades Intermediate Alpine Mountaineering 2026
- May 22, 2026 — May 26, 2026
- Jun 12, 2026 — Jun 16, 2026
- Jul 17, 2026 — Jul 21, 2026
- Jul 31, 2026 — Aug 4, 2026
- Aug 28, 2026 — Sep 1, 2026
Custom Dates Available — Contact Us
Policies
Cancellation / Refund Policy
- MMI strongly recommends trip cancellation/interruption and evacuation insurance for all trips. Our insurance partner, Ripcord, offers comprehensive travel insurance including trip cancellation, as well as rescue/evacuation policies and can assist in answering any questions. In addition, Participant is expected to have sufficient medical insurance as prescribed by their country of origin. Participant understands that MMI does not include any type of insurance with the cost of the trip.
- If you decide to cancel your trip or change your itinerary, MMI must be notified in writing. Your trip will be cancelled from the date written notice is received. If proper written cancellation notice is not received, amounts paid and reservations made will be forfeited.
- Non-refundable fees may apply for certain trips in order to secure permits and other services. MMI must strictly adhere to cancellation policies outside MMI’s control.
- Due to the personalized service we offer on our trips, MMI reserves the right to waive any fees. We will attempt to accommodate changes and cancellations, waiving certain fees when feasible.
- Circumstances outside the control of MMI and its partners, may require amended cancellation/refund policies. Such circumstances may include, but are not limited to COVID-19, natural disasters, wildfires, terrorism and so forth.
Domestic Trips/Courses:
- Full refund, less the non-refundable registration fee, will be provided 91 days or more before the departure date
- No refunds will be provided 90 days or less before the departure date
Trip Insurance
We strongly recommend the purchase of travel cancellation insurance to protect you from the unexpected. You aren’t likely to think of it now, but people do get ill, break a bone, have a family emergency or get assigned to a last-minute business trip. If you are in remote areas, please note that emergency rescue & evacuation can be very expensive.
We also strongly urge you to consider rescue and evacuation insurance if your own policy does not provide the coverage needed. Services available may include, but are not limited to, helicopter evacuation, medical care, etc.
If you choose not to purchase insurance, you assume full responsibility for any expenses incurred in the event of a medical emergency and/or evacuation, as well as for trip cancellation, interruption, lost luggage, etc. We are not the experts and therefore ask that you please consult our travel insurance partner directly with any specific questions.
To protect against losses due to illness, accident, or other unforeseen circumstances, Mountain Madness strongly recommends the purchase of travel insurance as soon as possible after making a deposit. Mountain Madness has partnered with Redpoint Resolutions as our preferred travel insurance provider. Redpoint’s Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ is designed for adventurers.
For a quote, or to purchase travel insurance, please click this link Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ or call +1 – 415-481‑0600. Pricing varies based on age, trip cost, trip length, and level of coverage.
Critical benefits of Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance include:
- A completely integrated program with a single point of contact for emergency services, travel assistance, and insurance claims
- Evacuation and rescue services from your point of injury or illness to your hospital of choice
- Comprehensive travel insurance for trip cancellation/interruption, primary medical expense coverage, baggage loss or delay, emergency accident and emergency sickness medical expense, emergency dental, accidental death and dismemberment, and more
- Optional security evacuation coverage in case of an unplanned natural disaster or other security events
- Waiver for pre-existing conditions (must be purchased within 14 days of tour deposit)
- Optional “Cancel for Any Reason” coverage (must be purchased within 14 days of tour deposit)
Itinerary
Flight Information
For scheduled courses and climbs, you should fly into Seattle-Tacoma International Airport (SeaTac). You are responsible for your transportation to downtown Seattle. You will meet as a group with your guide(s) early morning on Day 1 for an orientation meeting and equipment check.
North Cascades Intermediate Alpine Mountaineering Day by Day
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Day 1
After a 7:00 am orientation we drive to the trailhead and prepare to climb to our base camp. The hike to base camp is very strenuous and can take 4 – 7 hours depending upon the particular approach and the fitness of the group. (This is where all of your training pays off!) Our hike takes us through many ecological zones and gives the group a chance to admire and photograph ancient forests and alpine meadows. We will then construct our base camp, focusing on the methods for establishing protected camps, building tent platforms, snow walls, and properly securing the tent. Time permitting, we review snow and ice climbing techniques, belaying skills, and discuss the fragile alpine environment, Leave No Trace skills, and equipment usage and selection.
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Day 2
Throughout the trip, we will regularly assess subjective versus objective hazards, such as weather, avalanche and hypothermia, then use this information when planning our route or climbing strategy. After establishing Camp II, we move out to the snowfield to review and practice fundamental snow skills. We will practice self-arrest, balance positioning, and ascending and descending moderate to steep snow. We will also focus on placing various types of snow protection for use in the construction and equalization of snow anchors, belay techniques, and crevasse rescue. The evening will focus on planning the route for the next few days. The students are required to help formulate a style, determine the safest route and camp locations by studying topographic maps, and navigate using a map, compass, and altimeter.
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Day 3
We begin our day with a hot breakfast, breaking camp, and continuing our traverse through the glaciers of the Austera-Inspiration-Klawatti Icecap. Students will take a more aggressive leadership role and be out in front route finding through the glaciers and passes. After establishing camp we review essential skills of glacier travel, such as navigation and route finding, glaciology, hazard assessment, rope management, and snow bridge evolution. Simple crevasse rescue hauling systems will be reviewed (C and Z pulley systems) and we will then construct more complicated and powerful systems such as the ZxC and Canadian Drop loop. A multitude of realistic crevasse fall scenarios will be addressed. Day 3 will conclude with a discussion of the mountain environment and methods of evaluating subjective and objective hazards.
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Day 4
Our group will move on to the final camp along our high traverse, which requires traveling on the glacier with full packs. Proper techniques for camping on the glacier will be covered as students “dig in” on the upper slopes of the mountain. In the evening your guides will lead a focused discussion related to the specifics of high altitude mountaineering such as proper acclimatization, high altitude physiology, Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS), High Altitude Pulmonary and Cerebral Edema (HAPE / HACE) and the proper use of high altitude medications will all be covered. You’ll review the skills essential for the ascent, and prepare for summit day.
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Day 5
After an early morning wake-up (1 am) and a quick breakfast, we climb our way toward the summit. Today students apply the skills they have been practicing all week toward the ascent of a major glaciated peak. Depending on conditions and the pace of the group, it takes five to eight hours to reach the summit where you will be rewarded with awe-inspiring views. After basking in a sense of accomplishment and enjoying a snack, students will navigate and lead the team down to high camp in time for a hot lunch. After eating lunch, you will break camp and descend to the trailhead. You’ll spend some more time on navigation and route finding on your way to the van and civilization.
Note on Itinerary: Although we do our very best to follow the itinerary listed, it is subject to change due to weather, route conditions, and other reasons beyond our control.
Equipment for North Cascades Intermediate Alpine Mountaineering
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Carrying Gear
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Large capacity climbing pack (65-75L)
approximately 4000-4500 cubic inch (65-75 liters) capacity, avoid unnecessary options that add weight
Examples:
Black Diamond Mission 75, Osprey Ariel 65
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Sleeping Gear
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Expedition quality sleeping bag (15-20F)
One down or synthetic bag rated from 15-20°F /-9 to -7°C
Examples:
Marmot Helium, Marmot Trestles, Western Mountaineering Apache, North Face Guide 20
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Sleeping pad (inflatable or closed cell foam)
A foam pad will be provided but a supplemental pad is recommended. This can be an inflatable or closed cell foam pad. Make sure to purchase a pad rated for cold conditions.
Examples:
Therm-a-Rest NeoAir & Therm-a-Rest Z Lite Sol
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Climbing Gear
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Alpine climbing harness
Must have adjustable leg loops and fit over all clothing
Examples:
Black Diamond Couloir, Petzl Altitude, Petzl Hirundos
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Locking carabiners (4)
Four large, pear-shaped carabiners are best
Examples:
Black Diamond Rock Lock, Petzl William, Petzl Attache
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Non-locking carabiners (3)
3 non-locking carabiners. wired straight-gates are recommended
Examples:
Black Diamond HotWire
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Mountaineering ice axe
under 5’7” use 60cm, 5’7”-6’2” use 60 or 65cm, over 6’2” use 70cm
Examples:
Black Diamond Raven, Petzl Glacier
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Crampons w/ anti-balling plate
Steel 12-pont. Must be fit to climbing boots prior to trip, new-matic/hybrid type
Examples:
Black Diamond Sabretooth, Petzl Vasak
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Climbing helmet
Lightweight
Examples:
Black Diamond Half Dome, Petzl Elios
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30’ of perlon accessory cord (6mm)
30 feet of 6mm cord
Examples:
Sterling
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Adjustable trekking poles
Three piece poles recommended
Examples:
Black Diamond Trail Back Pole
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Belay device (plaquette)
Tube style
Examples:
Black Diamond ATC Guide, Petzl Reverso
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Prusik Minding Pulley (optional)
for crevasse rescue
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Petzl Micro Traxion
A compact and lightweight progress-capture pulley
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Head and Face
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Fleece or wool hat
It must cover the ears
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Glacier glasses
100% UV protection with side shields and a hard-sided storage case
Examples:
Julbo
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Shade hat or baseball cap
A visor hat with a good brim is essential for protection from the sun
Examples:
Mountain Madness trucker hat
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Balaclava or neck gaiter (optional)
lightweight
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Hands
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Light weight work gloves
lightweight gloves with leather palm for rope work
Examples:
Black Diamond Transition Glove
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Mid-weight gloves
1-2 pairs
Examples:
Black Diamond Punisher Glove
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Heavyweight shell glove
Gore-tex or equivalent (trips before July)
Examples:
Black Diamond Enforcer Glove
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Feet
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Liner socks (optional)
1-pair lightweight and thin
Examples:
polypropylene or wool
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Syntheric or wool socks
check boot fir to make sure they work together
Examples:
Smartwool ,Patagonia
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Insulated mountaineering boots (NW)
waterproof, insulated, crampon compatible, full shank boots. Many of these boots have Women specific equivalents (May –late June and Ice Climbs)
Examples:
Scarpa Mt Blanc, Scarpa Phantom Tech, La Sportiva Nepal Evo GTX, Salewa Vulture Vertical GTX
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Lightweight mountaineering boots (NW)
waterproof and crampon compatible (HIGHLY recommended from July -October)
Examples:
Scarpa Charmoz, La Sportiva Trango Tower, Salewa Raven, Salewa Crow
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Light trail shoes, camp booties, or sandals (optional)
Trail shoes for when at campgrounds and booties/sandals/Crocs for basecamps when weather and season allow
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Gaiters (optional)
Check fit with boots
Examples:
Outdoor Research Verglas or Crocodile
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Upper Body
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Synthetic t-shirts
Two synthetic or merino wool t-shirts. No cotton!
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Long-sleeved Base Layer
Two lightweight to mediumweight, pull-over is best
Examples:
Patagonia Capilene
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Sports bras
Two, synthetic, no cotton!
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Softshell Jacket w/ hood
This is what you will be wearing while hiking at higher altitudes or while kicking around camps at lower altitude. This jacket should be full-zip
Examples:
Outdoor Research Ferrosi
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Hardshell jacket w/ hood
A good jacket made of Gore-Tex (recommended) or waterproof nylon, roomy enough to fit over multiple layers
Examples:
Outdoor Research Foray, Patagonia Triolet
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Sun hoody
This piece with a high SPF rating and lightweight fabric offers protection from high altitude sun
Examples:
Outdoor Research
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Down or synthetic jacket w/hood
This is your most important piece of warm gear and will mean the difference between an enjoyable climb or a miserable one. A warm, full zip jacket with hood is ideal.
Examples:
Helly Hansen Vanir, Feathered Friends Volant, Marmot Guide’s Down Hoody, Outdoor Research Virtuoso Hoody
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Light weight synthetic jacket
light weight synthetic puffy or fleece
Examples:
Patagonia Nano Puff jacket
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Lower Body
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Long base layer
Two pairs light or mediumweight
Examples:
Patagonia Capilene
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Softshell pants
Softshell pants are water resistant, yet highly breathable and durable. Great for colder conditions over a pair of long underwear or tights higher on the mountain or summit day
Examples:
Outdoor Research Voodoo, Mountain Hardwear Touren, Patagonia Guide
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Hardshell pants
waterproof and breathable with side zips (minimum of ¾ zips recommended) Gore-Tex or equivalent
Examples:
Outdoor Research Furio, Arcteryx Beta AR
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Miscellaneous
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Bear Bag/Bear Canister
Bear bag or bear canister to protect your food from both bears and smaller critters
Examples:
Ursack AllMitey, BearVault,
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Personal first aid kit (NW)
moleskin/blister kit, Band-aids, athletic tape, ibuprofen, personal medications, ect
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Lip balm
Must have SPF rating of 20 or more. Bring two just in case!
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Sunscreen
Bring plenty of sun block with SPF of 40 or more. It's easy to underestimate the amount necessary for your trip!
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Hand sanitizer
enough to last trip length
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Insect repellent
A must!
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Headlamp
Bring extra batteries!
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Water bottles
two 1 liter wide-mouth water bottles
Examples:
Nalgene
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Hydration bladder (optional)
hydration bladder or water bag with drinking tube (must also have 1 Nalgene Bottle or equivalent)
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Water purification (NW)
Purifies drinking water while on the climb
Examples:
Steri Pen, water filter, Potable Aqua, Polar Pure crystal iodine
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Large plastic bowl
Bring a 2-4 cup camping bowl or a plastic "Rubbermaid" style container for your mountain dining
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Lexan spoon or spork
Lightweight and strong
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Insulated cup (12-16oz)
A 12-16 oz (350-500 ml) mug with an attached lid will help keep you hydrated
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Pocket knife or multitool
Simple Swiss Army type with scissors. Make sure you transport in checked bag, not carry-on!
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Toiletry kit (NW)
toilet paper stored in double zip lock bags
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Nylon stuff sacks
for food and gear storage, large ziplocs are useful
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Large plastic bags
heavy duty trash compactor bags recommended
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Bandana (optional)
lightweight
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Snacks (general)
Bring your favorite snacks and power/energy bars or if there is something else you particularly like to eat while hiking and climbing
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Camera (optional)
or any sort of device that takes pictures
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Soap, shampoo, towel (optional)
for use at campground showers when on itinerary
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Travel clothing
Comfortable clothing for travel before and after the expedition
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Cooking Gear (Overnight Courses Only)
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Fuel bottles
If you are flying, Mountain Madness can supply liquid fuel and bottles or fuel canisters when stock is available. We ask that local clients come with their own kit
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Backpacking stove
Complete stove and repair kit. Make sure fuel pump is included for liquid full stoves
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Pot grips
You’ll need these to handle your pot when it’s full of boiling water!
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Bowl
Plastic with 2-3 cup capacity; Tupperware works well
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Cooking pot
1.5 liter/qtsminimum, lightweight pot with tight fitting lid and handle. Aluminum or titanium are much lighter than stainless steel -
Spoon
Good quality plastic (i.e. Lexan)
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Mug
Insulated plastic with lid
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North Cascades Intermediate Alpine Mountaineering
$1,375
5 Days
Route
Eldorado Peak and Klawatti Glacier Spires
Client to guide ratio
3:1
Difficulty
Intermediate
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