Ojos del Salado Expedition
Guided ascent to the second highest peak in South America
Ojos Del Salada is the highest active volcano in the world and the second highest mountain in both the Western Hemisphere and South America. Ojos straddles the border of Argentina and Chile and is primarily a non-technical ascent except for a scramble on the final section to the summit.You’ll climb two other peaks for acclimatization, one 4,000 m and the other 6,000 m.
Starting and ending in Santiago Chile, the Ojos Del Salada trip includes plenty of non-technical hiking, 4‑wheel drive travel over 17,000 ft, hot springs soaking and camping in both huts and tents. This is a perfect adventure for small groups or a custom trip for an individual. Bag the second highest peak in the Western Hemisphere Mountain Madness style!
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Trip Perks
The journey to Ojos Del Salada allows the traveler to step back in time to an era of remote adventure. All the ingredients are included. A huge and remote mountain, (indeed the world’s highest active volcano), off the beaten path, way off, and away from the tourist crowds on other high peaks in the Andes, and a taste of the exotic in the barren yet sublimely beautiful terrain. The satisfaction of traveling with a small group in grand and wild places is the heart and soul of adventure and there is satisfaction in abundance on your journey to Ojos Del Salada.
Oh, and pink flamingos and like the wine in Mendoza, it’s not so bad in Chile either!
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Description
The ascent of Ojos Del Salado is physically challenging and, save for a short section of scrambling near the summit, technically easy. The approach to Ojos is primarily by vehicle, with no long days of walking from camp to camp, and without the burden of heavy packs and load-carrying. Two acclimatization climbs, and adherence to the philosophy of “climb-high, sleep low” allow participants to ascend to altitude in a relatively short time. The ascents of the 3 peaks will provide ample opportunity to see a vast amount of scenic terrain as well as provide a consistent physical challenge. Expedition style for the Ojos trip consists of 4 wheel drive approaches, accommodations in camps, shelters and hotels, and the great food Mountain Madness is famous for.
The itinerary includes an extra day for the summit attempt on Ojos. Combined with the vehicle approaches and comfortable camps this will help acclimatization and greatly increase our chances for a successful summit.
Interested in other routes on big peaks with less climbers? Join us on our Aconcagua Polish Traverse
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Qualifications
Climbing Ojos del Salado: What to Expect
The Ojos del Salado expedition is perfect for testing yourself at high altitude in a relatively short time. This is ideal for climbers who are in excellent physical condition with basic mountaineering experience. The higher altitude and possibility of more extreme weather make this climb more physically challenging than Mount Kilimanjaro. The terrain on the climbing route is similar, except for a short section of scrambling, and may require the use of an ice axe and crampons. It is also different from Kilimanjaro in that this is a small team, self-supporting mountaineering expedition. It is required that you are familiar with the proper use of these tools prior to your trip to Ojos Del Salado. This climb is perfect as a springboard for trekkers setting their sights on higher peaks.
For those with minimal mountaineering and/or high altitude experience a logical progression might look like this:
- Participate in a climbing course in the North Cascades, such as the Glacier Mountaineering Course or the Alpine Climbing Course
- Climb high altitude peaks such as Mexico Volcanoes, Ecuador Volcanoes or climbs in Peru or Bolivia
OR;
- Climb Kilimanjaro or Mount Elbrus
- Participate in a high altitude mountaineering course in Bolivia, Ecuador or on Mont Blanc
Have a Question? Contact Us!
Price
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Aconcagua Normal Route
from $7,000 – 15 Days / Includes travel time
- 1:1 - $10,000 per person
- 2:1-3:1 - $7,000 per person
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Price Includes
- Transport starting upon arrival in Copiapo airport to return.
- Accommodation for 2 days in Copiapo and /or Bahia Inglesa. Double room.
- Accommodation for 2 days in Maricunga refuge. (Dormitory)
- All meals starting with dinner Day 2 until lunch Day 13. Includes all mountain meals and snacks.
- 1 driver/cook
- Certified Mountain Madness guide.
- Group climbing equipment
- 2‑person mountain tent
- Dining tent in base camp and Atacama campsite
- VHF radio and Satellite phone for emergency communications
- Oxygen for emergencies
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Price Does Not Include
- International and domestic airfare
- Chile entry visa and airport fees
- Personal climbing gear and clothing
- Personal expenses (phone calls, laundry, room service, extra hotel nights, extra meals, etc.)
- Travel insurance with trip cancellation, medical and evacuation policy
- All expenses associated with non-scheduled departure
- Restaurant meals upon return to trail head, and in Santiago post-climb
- Alcoholic and bottled beverages
- Airport transfer for return flight home
- Guide/Staff gratuities
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Payment Schedule
- $700 deposit at time of registration, which includes a $300 non-refundable registration fee
- Balance due 120 days prior to departure
- The balance may be paid by check, wire transfer, ACH or credit card with a 3% convenience fee
Dates
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2020
- Dec 5, 2020 — Dec 19, 2020
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2021
- Feb 6, 2021 — Feb 20, 2021
Custom Dates Available — Contact Us
Policies
Cancellation / Refund Policy
- MMI strongly recommends trip cancellation/interruption and evacuation insurance for all trips. Our insurance partner, Ripcord, offers comprehensive travel insurance including trip cancellation, as well as rescue/evacuation policies and can assist in answering any questions. In addition, Participant is expected to have sufficient medical insurance as prescribed by their country of origin. Participant understands that MMI does not include any type of insurance with the cost of the trip.
- If you decide to cancel your trip or change your itinerary, MMI must be notified in writing. Your trip will be cancelled from the date written notice is received. If proper written cancellation notice is not received, amounts paid and reservations made will be forfeited.
- Non-refundable fees may apply for certain trips in order to secure permits and other services. MMI must strictly adhere to cancellation policies outside MMI’s control.
- Due to the personalized service we offer on our trips, MMI reserves the right to waive any fees. We will attempt to accommodate changes and cancellations, waiving certain fees when feasible.
International Trips/Courses:
- Full refund, less the non-refundable registration fee, will be provided 121 days or more before the departure date
- No refunds will be provided 120 days or less before the departure date
Trip Insurance
We strongly recommend the purchase of travel cancellation insurance to protect you from the unexpected. You aren’t likely to think of it now, but people do get ill, break a bone, have a family emergency or get assigned to a last-minute business trip. If you are in remote areas, please note that emergency rescue & evacuation can be very expensive.
We also strongly urge you to consider rescue and evacuation insurance if your own policy does not provide the coverage needed. Services available may include, but are not limited to, helicopter evacuation, medical care, etc.
If you choose not to purchase insurance, you assume full responsibility for any expenses incurred in the event of a medical emergency and/or evacuation, as well as for trip cancellation, interruption, lost luggage, etc. We are not the experts and therefore ask that you please consult our travel insurance partner directly with any specific questions.
To protect against losses due to illness, accident, or other unforeseen circumstances, Mountain Madness strongly recommends the purchase of travel insurance as soon as possible after making a deposit. Mountain Madness has partnered with Redpoint Resolutions as our preferred travel insurance provider. Redpoint’s Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ is designed for adventurers.
For a quote, or to purchase travel insurance, please click this link Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ or call +1 – 415-481‑0600. Pricing varies based on age, trip cost, trip length, and level of coverage.
Critical benefits of Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance include:
- A completely integrated program with a single point of contact for emergency services, travel assistance, and insurance claims
- Evacuation and rescue services from your point of injury or illness to your hospital of choice
- Comprehensive travel insurance for trip cancellation/interruption, primary medical expense coverage, baggage loss or delay, emergency accident and emergency sickness medical expense, emergency dental, accidental death and dismemberment, and more
- Optional security evacuation coverage in case of an unplanned natural disaster or other security events
- Waiver for pre-existing conditions (must be purchased within 14 days of tour deposit)
- Optional “Cancel for Any Reason” coverage (must be purchased within 14 days of tour deposit)
Itinerary
Flight Information
The total number of days for your trip includes all travel to and from your destination, with some exceptions. Dates listed on the website start with a departure date from the U.S. and include the day you arrive home. For this trip you will need to arrive in Santiago, Chile on Day 2. You can arrive any time on Day 2. This necessitates an overnight flight from the U.S. beginning on Day 1 of the itinerary. You will be met at the airport by a Mountain Madness representative and transferred to your hotel.
Your return flight home will also be an overnight flight departing from Santiago during the day on Day 14 of the itinerary for a night flight back to the U.S. or your final destination. Please contact our office for any help needed with flight schedule
Ojos del Salado Normal Route Day by Day
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Day 1
Travel
Depart home for Santiago, Chile.
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Day 2
Santiago
Elevation: 2,428 ft / 740 m
Arrive in Santiago. A Mountain Madness guide will meet you at the airport and escort you to the hotel. Meet at the hotel in the evening for a group dinner and orientation. Depending on your flight arrival time, you may be able to explore the city.
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Day 3
Fly to Desierto de Atacamba airport.
Transport to Copiapo, (approx. 45 min). Night in hotel. This flight is at your expense, but Mountain Madness will make the arrangements.
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Day 4
Santa Rosa Lake
Elevation: 12,139 ft / 3700 m
We drive to this beautiful lake and spend the night in the refuge
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Day 5
Dona Ines Basecamp
Elevation: 13,221 ft / 403 m
As part of the expedition we will climb this peak. After the hike to basecamp we will spend the rest and prepare for the ascent the next day.
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Day 6
Dona Ines
Elevation: 16,650 ft / 5075 m
We will climb Dona Ines ans return to basecamp for a break before returning to Santa Rosa refuge where we spend the night.
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Day 7
Laguna Verde
Elevation: 14,107 ft / 4300 m
We drive to the lake in the morning and will have time to do an afternoon hike and enjoy the hot springs/thermal baths- a welcome time to relax after Dona Ines.
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Day 8
Nevado de San Francisco
Elevation: 19,947 ft / 6080 m
Our final acclimatization ascent will prepare us for Ojos. After our climb of San Francisco we return to Laguna Verde.
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Day 9
Atacama Camp
Elevation: 17,224 ft / 5250 m
We drive to the Atacama Camp. Today is dedicated toward rest, acclimatization and preparation for the summit push.
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Day 10
Tejos Shelter Carry
Elevation: 19,150 ft / 5837 m
Today starts with an acclimatization hike and carry to Tejos Shelter (5,837 m/19,150 ft). This will take around 5 — 6 hours round trip. We return to Atacama Camp for dinner and rest.
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Day 11
Tejos Shelter
Elevation: 19,150 ft / 5837 m
After a leisurely morning we make the move to the Tejos Shelter where we have dinner and rest for the climb the next day.
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Day 12
Ojos del Salado
Elevation: 22,615 ft / 6893 m
Ascend Ojos del Salado (6,893 m/22,615 ft). Summit day. From Tejos to the summit it’s only 3 km over steep and switch-backed terrain to the crater. After crossing the crater, we deal with the last bit of rock climbing before arriving on the summit. Round trip should take 9 — 12 hours. If possible, we’ll go back to Atacama or Laguna Verde. Dinner and bed.
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Day 13
Extra Summit Day
Elevation: 22,615 ft / 6893 m
Extra day to allow for extra summit attempt in case of bad weather.
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Day 14
Santiago
We return to Copiapo and an afternoon flight to Santiago.
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Day 15
Home
You will arrive home or continue on other travels.
Equipment for Ojos del Salado Expedition
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Carrying Gear
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Summit pack (40L)
Lightweight as possible with a volume approximately 2,500 cubic inches (40 liters)
Examples:
Osprey Mutant 38
Black Diamond Speed 40
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Large capacity climbing pack (70-85L)
Lightweight as possible with a volume of 4,000 – 5,000 cubic inches (70 - 85 liters)
Examples:
Osprey Aether 70
Osprey Aether 85
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Small duffel bag
Large enough to hold everything you’re not taking on the mountain. Will be stored at hotel, to be used after trip
Examples:
Patagonia Black Hole
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Large duffel bag (150L)
One at least 7,000 cubic inch capacity (150 liters). Must be durable and waterproof
Examples:
Patagonia Black Hole
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Small padlock for duffel bags
Extra security
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Baggage tags
Makes identifying your bags easy at airports or hotels
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Sleeping Gear
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Expedition quality sleeping bag (-20F/-30C Down or Synthetic)
One down or synthetic bag rated from -20°F / -30°C
Examples:
Feathered Friends Ptarmigan, Marmot Col
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Sleeping pad (inflatable)
Full length inflatable. When sleeping on snow make sure to purchase pad rated to do so
Examples:
Therm-a-Rest NeoAir
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Sleeping pad (foam)
Closed cell foam 3/4 or full length. This pad is used in conjunction with the first pad
Examples:
Therm-a-rest Ridgerest
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Climbing Gear
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Mountaineering ice axe
under 5’7” use 60cm, 5’7”-6’2” use 60 or 65cm, over 6’2” use 70cm
Examples:
Black Diamond Raven, Petzl Glacier
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Crampons w/ anti-balling plate
Steel 12-pont. Must be fit to climbing boots prior to trip, new-matic/hybrid type
Examples:
Black Diamond Sabretooth, Petzl Vasak
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Climbing helmet
Lightweight
Examples:
Black Diamond Half Dome, Petzl Elios
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Adjustable trekking poles
Three piece poles recommended
Examples:
Black Diamond Trail Back Pole
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Head and Face
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Fleece or wool hat
It must cover the ears
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Shade hat or baseball cap
A visor hat with a good brim is essential for protection from the sun
Examples:
Mountain Madness trucker hat
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Bandanas or neck gaiter
Various uses, i.e. cleaning glasses, sun protection when tied around the neck, etc. We have our own Mountain Madness neck gaiter available for purchase!
Examples:
Mountain Madness neck gaiter
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Balaclava
A thin balaclava will add significant warmth on that cold summit day
Examples:
Outdoor Research, Marmot
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Facemask
Neoprene or microfleece ski type
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Glacier glasses
100% UV protection with side shields and a hard-sided storage case
Examples:
Julbo
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Ski goggles
To fit over glacier glasses in high wind. Rose or amber lenses
Examples:
Smith, Oakley
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Hands
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Leather work gloves
One pair lightweight to spare your climbing while doing camp chores
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Liner gloves
Two pairs thin fleece or synthetic
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Softshell gloves
One pair medium-weight for daily wear when it’s not too cold
Examples:
Black Diamond Arc, Arcteryx Zenta LT Glove
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Expedition gloves
Insulated, water resistant shell with leather palms
Examples:
Black Diamond Guide
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Expedition mitts
One pair Gore-Tex or equivalent, with textured palms and taped seams. Synthetic or down filled. Warm, heavy duty for cold temperatures
Examples:
Outdoor Research Altimitt
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Feet
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Thin socks (2 pair)
Two pairs of synthetic or wool socks to wear under heavy wool socks to help prevent blisters and keep feet dry
Examples:
Smartwool or Cool Max
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Thick socks (3 pair)
Three pairs of synthetic or wool socks, medium to heavyweight. Check boot fit with thin and thick socks on
Examples:
Smartwool or Thorlo
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Booties
Synthetic or down to keep feet warm while in tent
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Gaiters
One pair of gaiters made of breathable material; keeps dirt and snow out of boots. Make sure they fit over your boots
Examples:
Outdoor Research Verglas or Crocodiles
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Super-gaiters
These will provide extra warmth and are required if you use plastic mountaineering boots
Examples:
Mountain Tools Climb High
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High-altitude double mountaineering boots (6000m)
Plastic or hybrid rated for 6,000-meter peak climbs or winter mountaineering. If you choose a plastic boot, you must have liner boots that are in new or excellent condition!
Examples:
La Sportiva Spantik or G2 SM
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Light hiking boots or trail shoes
For acclimatization hikes
Examples:
Salomon X-Ultra 3 Mid, Merrell Moab, La Sportiva Boulder Ex
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Upper Body
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Synthetic t-shirts
Two synthetic or merino wool t-shirts. No cotton!
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Long-sleeved Base Layer
Two lightweight to mediumweight, pull-over is best
Examples:
Patagonia Capilene
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Sports bras
Two, synthetic, no cotton!
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Softshell Jacket w/ hood
This is what you will be wearing while hiking at higher altitudes or while kicking around camps at lower altitude. This jacket should be full-zip
Examples:
Outdoor Research Ferrosi
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Hardshell jacket w/ hood
A good jacket made of Gore-Tex (recommended) or waterproof nylon, roomy enough to fit over multiple layers
Examples:
Outdoor Research Foray, Patagonia Triolet
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Expedition down parka w/ hood (Feathered Friends Volant, Marmot Greenland Parka)
This is your most important piece of warm gear and will mean the difference between an enjoyable climb or a miserable one. A warm, full zip jacket with hood is mandatory. It’s important that you jacket is 700+ fill down, baffle construction (not sewn through seams) and as a thick, insulated hood
Examples:
Feathered Friends Volant, Marmot Greenland Parka
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Sun hoody (optional)
This piece with a high SPF rating and lightweight fabric offers protection from high altitude sun
Examples:
Outdoor Research
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Lower Body
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Undergarments
Adequate supply for the entire climb
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Long base layer
Two pairs light or mediumweight
Examples:
Patagonia Capilene
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Softshell pants
Softshell pants are water resistant, yet highly breathable and durable. Great for colder conditions over a pair of long underwear or tights higher on the mountain or summit day
Examples:
Outdoor Research Voodoo, Mountain Hardwear Touren, Patagonia Guide
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Hardshell pants
waterproof and breathable with side zips (minimum of ¾ zips recommended) Gore-Tex or equivalent
Examples:
Outdoor Research Furio, Arcteryx Beta AR
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Insulated pants
Synthetic or down with full side zip. Warm insulation for upper mountain
Examples:
Mountain Hardwear Compressor
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Miscellaneous
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Stuff sacks/ditty bags/plastic bags
To organize gear in your duffle and pack. All clothing should be kept dry using waterproof stuff sacks or large heavyweight plastic bags (trash compactor bags work great)
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Toiletries
Toothbrush and paste, comb, tampons, biodegradable soap (small amount), etc. Bring enough for the entire trip
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Toilet paper
1 – 2 rolls stored in a plastic bag
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Sunscreen
Bring plenty of sun block with SPF of 40 or more. It's easy to underestimate the amount necessary for your trip!
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Lip balm
Must have SPF rating of 20 or more. Bring two just in case!
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Ear plugs
To block out snoring and other noise to ensure a good night's sleep
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Water bottles with insulators
Two one-liter wide-mouthed plastic bottles
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Small stainless-steel thermos (optional)
For hot beverages on summit day
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Water purification
Steri Pen, Potable Aqua, Polar Pure crystal iodine. Purifies drinking water while on the climb. this will only be necessary as a back-up.
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Water flavoring
Powdered additives like Gatorade or NUUN tablets make treated water taste better
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Large plastic bowl
Bring a 2-4 cup camping bowl or a plastic "Rubbermaid" style container for your mountain dining
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Insulated cup (12-16oz)
A 12-16 oz (350-500 ml) mug with an attached lid will help keep you hydrated
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Lexan spoon or spork
Lightweight and strong
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Headlamp
Bring extra batteries!
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Pocket knife or multitool
Simple Swiss Army type with scissors. Make sure you transport in checked bag, not carry-on!
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Personal first aid and drug kit
See Health and Medical Information
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Nausea medications
Pepto Bismol tablets; Maalox, Gelusil M or Mylanta antacid tablets. Donnatal for stomach cramps. Probiotic capsules taken daily may help keep your gastro-intestinal system working smoothly
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Towel
For wash up in camp
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Handi-Wipes
A small pack or two anti-bacterial are great for general hygiene
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Spare contacts and glasses
Contacts can be a problem in dusty conditions, so make sure you have your back-up glasses with you. Glasses wearers should have a spare set
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Snacks (general)
Bring your favorite snacks and power/energy bars or if there is something else you particularly like to eat while hiking and climbing
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Spare bottle for a pee bottle, and a pee funnel (Lady J or Freshette) for women
It can be a cold walk to the toilet at night
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Insect repellent
A must!
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Personal electronics
Phone with camera, and/or separate camera. Bring extra batteries and memory!
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Electronics charging
If you want to charge your electronics along the way, a small, lightweight solar panel to charge batteries or portable charging device may be a good addition
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Travel power adapter
Most come in kits with all the plugs you need. Double-check to make sure you’re taking the correct adapter/plugs
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Travel clothing
Comfortable clothing for travel before and after the expedition
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Book Trip
Aconcagua Normal Route
from $7,000
15 Days / Includes travel time
- 1:1 - $10,000 per person
- 2:1-3:1 - $7,000 per person
Elevation
22,615 ft / 6893 m
Route
Normal Route
Guide Ratio
3:1 client to guide ratio
Difficulty
Advanced Beginner
Climbers should have basic snow and ice-climbing skills and should be comfortable with glacier travel, which includes moving in a rope team, self arrest, and basic crevasse rescue. Basic knowledge and experience would be required for objectives with some rock climbing.
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