Denali Prep Course
Learn all the skills and tricks of the trade for Arctic-type expeditions
This course is held on the slopes of Mount Rainier – the Muir Snowfield, the Nisqually, Cowlitz and Paradise Glaciers – and will be conducted “expedition style,” moving camp to camp. For the climber who is aspiring to participate in, or lead an expedition to Denali, Mount Logan, or the Vinson Massif – or other similar large glaciated peaks in South America, Asia, or the Arctic regions, this course gets you ready for the specific skills related to extended living on glaciers in potentially extreme weather. Pulling sleds, building secure camps, navigating crevassed terrain, executing rescue techniques, climbing with full packs, ascending fixed ropes, and formulating a trip plan are all necessary skills required for safe travel in the sometimes harsh environments on the bigger peaks in the world.
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Course Perks
This is a tough one, there’s no obvious perk other than the satisfaction that comes with a lot of hard work and expanding your knowledge, but that’s what this one is all about, which makes it more than worthy. And it’s not such a bad thing to show up for an expedition like Denali and actually know what you’re doing!
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Description
Mount Rainier can dish out some severe weather in early spring, providing ample real-world exposure to extreme weather and snow conditions. Over five days, participants will review skills needed for Denali and other big objectives. Participants need to bring to the course a basic knowledge of alpine mountaineering and a healthy desire for enduring harsh mountain conditions. There is no summit attempt built into this winter conditions itinerary.
This is an advanced-beginner to intermediate level course. Similar and previous experience required.
This course involves the following:
- Glacier travel, steep snow and ice climbing to 50-degrees
- Heavy loads up to 50 – 60 lbs
- Sustained expedition travel utilizing sleds
- Backcountry camping and cooking skills
- Winter camping
- Climbers should be in excellent physical condition and have a healthy and team- oriented expedition mentality
Course Curriculum Includes:
- Roped glacier travel, rope team management, route finding, and crevasse navigation
- Team and individual self arrest, crevasse rescue techniques and scenarios
- Snow climbing, ice axe positioning, and moving in balance
- Snow and ice anchor selection, construction, and equalization
- Ice climbing, and cramponing techniques
- Fixed line ascension
- Belaying, rappelling, and rope management
- Glaciology, and crevassed terrain assessment
- Navigation using maps, compasses, and altimeters
- Winter camp construction, camp management, and cold weather camping skills
- Hazard assessment including discussion of objective vs. subjective hazards, assessment of avalanche danger, crevasse fall, rock and ice fall dangers
- Proper clothing and equipment for survival in the glacial environment, mountain weather, alpine ecology, efficient and self-dependent climbing techniques, and Leave No Trace ethics
Have a Question? Contact Us!
Price
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Denali Prep Course
$1,500 – 5 Days
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Price Includes
- Guide services
- Ground transportation
- Park entrance fee
- All meals while on the mountain
- Tents
- Group climbing equipment
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Price Does Not Include
- Airfare
- Transportation within Seattle
- Hotel accommodations
- Restaurant meals
- All personal equipment
- Travel insurance with trip cancellation, medical and evacuation policy
- Guide gratuities
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Payment Schedule
- $400 deposit at time of registration, which includes a $200 non-refundable registration fee
- Balance due 90 days prior to departure
- The balance may be paid by check, wire transfer, ACH or credit card with a 3% convenience fee
Dates
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Denali Prep Course 2025
- Mar 17, 2025 — Mar 21, 2025
- Mar 31, 2025 — Apr 4, 2025
- Apr 21, 2025 — Apr 25, 2025
- Apr 28, 2025 — May 2, 2025
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Denali Prep Course 2026
- Mar 16, 2026 — Mar 20, 2026
- Mar 30, 2026 — Apr 3, 2026
- Apr 20, 2026 — Apr 24, 2026
- Apr 27, 2026 — May 1, 2026
Custom Dates Available — Contact Us
Policies
Cancellation / Refund Policy
- MMI strongly recommends trip cancellation/interruption and evacuation insurance for all trips. Our insurance partner, Ripcord, offers comprehensive travel insurance including trip cancellation, as well as rescue/evacuation policies and can assist in answering any questions. In addition, Participant is expected to have sufficient medical insurance as prescribed by their country of origin. Participant understands that MMI does not include any type of insurance with the cost of the trip.
- If you decide to cancel your trip or change your itinerary, MMI must be notified in writing. Your trip will be cancelled from the date written notice is received. If proper written cancellation notice is not received, amounts paid and reservations made will be forfeited.
- Non-refundable fees may apply for certain trips in order to secure permits and other services. MMI must strictly adhere to cancellation policies outside MMI’s control.
- Due to the personalized service we offer on our trips, MMI reserves the right to waive any fees. We will attempt to accommodate changes and cancellations, waiving certain fees when feasible.
- Circumstances outside the control of MMI and its partners, may require amended cancellation/refund policies. Such circumstances may include, but are not limited to COVID-19, natural disasters, wildfires, terrorism and so forth.
Domestic Trips/Courses:
- Full refund, less the non-refundable registration fee, will be provided 91 days or more before the departure date
- No refunds will be provided 90 days or less before the departure date
Trip Insurance
We strongly recommend the purchase of travel cancellation insurance to protect you from the unexpected. You aren’t likely to think of it now, but people do get ill, break a bone, have a family emergency or get assigned to a last-minute business trip. If you are in remote areas, please note that emergency rescue & evacuation can be very expensive.
We also strongly urge you to consider rescue and evacuation insurance if your own policy does not provide the coverage needed. Services available may include, but are not limited to, helicopter evacuation, medical care, etc.
If you choose not to purchase insurance, you assume full responsibility for any expenses incurred in the event of a medical emergency and/or evacuation, as well as for trip cancellation, interruption, lost luggage, etc. We are not the experts and therefore ask that you please consult our travel insurance partner directly with any specific questions.
To protect against losses due to illness, accident, or other unforeseen circumstances, Mountain Madness strongly recommends the purchase of travel insurance as soon as possible after making a deposit. Mountain Madness has partnered with Redpoint Resolutions as our preferred travel insurance provider. Redpoint’s Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ is designed for adventurers.
For a quote, or to purchase travel insurance, please click this link Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ or call +1 – 415-481‑0600. Pricing varies based on age, trip cost, trip length, and level of coverage.
Critical benefits of Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance include:
- A completely integrated program with a single point of contact for emergency services, travel assistance, and insurance claims
- Evacuation and rescue services from your point of injury or illness to your hospital of choice
- Comprehensive travel insurance for trip cancellation/interruption, primary medical expense coverage, baggage loss or delay, emergency accident and emergency sickness medical expense, emergency dental, accidental death and dismemberment, and more
- Optional security evacuation coverage in case of an unplanned natural disaster or other security events
- Waiver for pre-existing conditions (must be purchased within 14 days of tour deposit)
- Optional “Cancel for Any Reason” coverage (must be purchased within 14 days of tour deposit)
Itinerary
Flight Information
For scheduled courses and climbs, you should fly into Seattle-Tacoma International Airport (SeaTac). You are responsible for your transportation to downtown Seattle. You will meet as a group with your guide(s) early morning on Day 1 for an orientation meeting and equipment check.
Denali Prep Course Day by Day
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Day 1
Snowfield below Paradise Glacier
Base Camp at 6,400 ft / 1,950 m
After general introductions the group will go discuss all personal and group equipment for the training. Next the group will divide up food and group gear, discuss key concepts of packing your Backpack and rigging your sled. Once loaded up you will make your way to the Paradise parking lot located in Mount Rainier National Park to begin your mini expedition. The remainder of the day will focus on traveling on snow shoes, pulling a gear sled, mountain navigation, and development of a full functioning winter camp.
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Day 2
The Edge of the Paradise Glacier
Establish Base Camp at 7,500 ft / 2,286 m
We start off day two by pulling out the map and compass and discussing mountain navigation. After discussing the route for the day the group will continue their travel towards the glacier. On route we will focus on general glacier mountaineering skills such as knots, crampon / ice axe use, self arrest, and snow/ice anchors.
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Day 3
The Edge of the Paradise Glacier
Camp at 7,500 ft / 2,286 m
Day three focuses on crevasse rescue. Your group will get more practice placing effective snow anchors and bollards and then learn to equalize them to create “bomber” anchors. You will put them to use as you learn the fundamentals of crevasse rescue pulley systems and then move on to more advanced pulley systems. Your team will perform a number of team rescues and a multitude of realistic crevasse fall scenarios will be addressed. We will conclude the day with a discussion of the mountain environment and methods of evaluating subjective and objective hazards.We then move into rope team travel and the specifics of ascending steep slopes and fixed lines.
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Day 4
The Edge of the Paradise Glacier
Establish base camp above 7,500 ft / 2,286 m
Day four pulls everything together with the day focused on practicing the skills that have been taught in full expedition mode. Participants will be involved in all aspects of breaking / setting camp, pulling sleds and traveling on a rope team with a heavy expedition pack.
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Day 5
Practice and Review
Day five allows time for participants to focus on skills that need extra practice as well as discuss Denali specific topics such as altitude sickness, hypothermia, avalanche safety, and safe route finding. A review of the curriculum will be done before a final debrief and the end of the course.
Note on Itinerary: Although we do our very best to follow the schedule listed, the very nature of climbing in an alpine environment requires flexibility. This itinerary is subject to change due to inclement weather, unsafe route conditions, and other reasons beyond our control.
Equipment for Denali Prep Course
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Carrying Gear
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Large capacity climbing pack (65-75L)
approximately 4000-4500 cubic inch (65-75 liters) capacity, avoid unnecessary options that add weight
Examples:
Black Diamond Mission 75, Osprey Ariel 65
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Large Duffel (90-125L)
made from water proof nylon
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Sleeping Gear
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Sleeping bag (Denali Prep)
Rated to at least +10º F. Bring your Denali Sleep System if planning Denali(-20-30F)
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Sleeping pad (inflatable or closed cell foam)
A foam pad will be provided but a supplemental pad is recommended. This can be an inflatable or closed cell foam pad. Make sure to purchase a pad rated for cold conditions.
Examples:
Therm-a-Rest NeoAir & Therm-a-Rest Z Lite Sol
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Sleeping pad (foam)
A foam pad will be provided but a supplemental sleeping pad is advised for warmth and comfort. Closed cell foam 3/4 or full length. This pad is used in conjunction with the first pad
Examples:
Therm-a-rest Ridgerest
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Climbing Gear
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Alpine climbing harness
Must have adjustable leg loops and fit over all clothing
Examples:
Black Diamond Couloir, Petzl Altitude, Petzl Hirundos
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Locking carabiners (2)
Two large, pear-shaped carabiners are best
Examples:
Black Diamond Rock Lock, Petzl William, Petzl Attache
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Non-locking carabiners (3)
3 non-locking carabiners. wired straight-gates are recommended
Examples:
Black Diamond HotWire
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Ascender (single)
One full-sized ascender with handle for fixed lines (left handed for right handed climbers, or vice-versa)
Examples:
Petzl Ascension
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Mountaineering ice axe
under 5’7” use 60cm, 5’7”-6’2” use 60 or 65cm, over 6’2” use 70cm
Examples:
Black Diamond Raven, Petzl Glacier
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Crampons w/ anti-balling plate
Steel 12-pont. Must be fit to climbing boots prior to trip, new-matic/hybrid type
Examples:
Black Diamond Sabretooth, Petzl Vasak
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Climbing helmet
Lightweight
Examples:
Black Diamond Half Dome, Petzl Elios
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30’ of perlon accessory cord (6mm)
30 feet of 6mm cord
Examples:
Sterling
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Adjustable trekking poles
Three piece poles recommended
Examples:
Black Diamond Trail Back Pole
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Snowshoes
22-28in (55-70cm) with waterproof boots
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Avalanche Beacon
beacon needs to be on 457 frequency
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Shovel
small collapsible style
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Avalance Probe
no ski pole probes!
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Head and Face
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Fleece or wool hat
It must cover the ears
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Glacier glasses
100% UV protection with side shields and a hard-sided storage case
Examples:
Julbo
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Shade hat or baseball cap
A visor hat with a good brim is essential for protection from the sun
Examples:
Mountain Madness trucker hat
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Balaclava or neck gaiter (optional)
lightweight
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Hands
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Light weight work gloves
lightweight gloves with leather palm for rope work
Examples:
Black Diamond Transition Glove
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Mid-weight gloves
1-2 pairs
Examples:
Black Diamond Punisher Glove
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Heavyweight shell glove
Gore-tex or equivalent (trips before July)
Examples:
Black Diamond Enforcer Glove
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Feet
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Thin socks (2 pair)
Two pairs of synthetic or wool socks to wear under heavy wool socks to help prevent blisters and keep feet dry
Examples:
Smartwool or Cool Max
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Thick socks (2 pair)
Two pairs of synthetic or wool socks, medium to heavyweight. Check boot fit with thin and thick socks on
Examples:
Smartwool or Thorlo
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Super-gaiters
These will provide extra warmth and are required if you use plastic mountaineering boots
Examples:
Mountain Tools Climb High
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Gaiters
One pair of gaiters made of breathable material; keeps dirt and snow out of boots. Make sure they fit over your boots
Examples:
Outdoor Research Verglas or Crocodiles
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High-altitude double mountaineering boots (6000m)
Plastic or hybrid rated for 6,000-meter peak climbs or winter mountaineering. If you choose a plastic boot, you must have liner boots that are in new or excellent condition!
Examples:
La Sportiva Spantik or G2 SM
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Upper Body
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Synthetic t-shirts
Two synthetic or merino wool t-shirts. No cotton!
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Sports bras
Two, synthetic, no cotton!
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Long-sleeved Base Layer
Two lightweight to mediumweight, pull-over is best
Examples:
Patagonia Capilene
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Light weight synthetic jacket
light weight synthetic puffy or fleece
Examples:
Patagonia Nano Puff jacket
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Softshell Jacket w/ hood
This is what you will be wearing while hiking at higher altitudes or while kicking around camps at lower altitude. This jacket should be full-zip
Examples:
Outdoor Research Ferrosi
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Hardshell jacket w/ hood
A good jacket made of Gore-Tex (recommended) or waterproof nylon, roomy enough to fit over multiple layers
Examples:
Outdoor Research Foray, Patagonia Triolet
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Down or synthetic jacket w/hood
This is your most important piece of warm gear and will mean the difference between an enjoyable climb or a miserable one. A warm, full zip jacket with hood is ideal.
Examples:
Helly Hansen Vanir, Feathered Friends Volant, Marmot Guide’s Down Hoody, Outdoor Research Virtuoso Hoody
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Sun hoody
This piece with a high SPF rating and lightweight fabric offers protection from high altitude sun
Examples:
Outdoor Research
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Lower Body
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Long base layer
Two pairs light or mediumweight
Examples:
Patagonia Capilene
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Softshell pants
Softshell pants are water resistant, yet highly breathable and durable. Great for colder conditions over a pair of long underwear or tights higher on the mountain or summit day
Examples:
Outdoor Research Voodoo, Mountain Hardwear Touren, Patagonia Guide
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Hardshell pants
waterproof and breathable with side zips (minimum of ¾ zips recommended) Gore-Tex or equivalent
Examples:
Outdoor Research Furio, Arcteryx Beta AR
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Miscellaneous
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Bear Bag/Bear Canister
Bear bag or bear canister to protect your food from both bears and smaller critters
Examples:
Ursack AllMitey, BearVault,
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Personal first aid kit (NW)
moleskin/blister kit, Band-aids, athletic tape, ibuprofen, personal medications, ect
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Lip balm
Must have SPF rating of 20 or more. Bring two just in case!
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Sunscreen
Bring plenty of sun block with SPF of 40 or more. It's easy to underestimate the amount necessary for your trip!
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Hand sanitizer
enough to last trip length
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Headlamp
Bring extra batteries!
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Water bottles
two 1 liter wide-mouth water bottles
Examples:
Nalgene
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Hydration bladder (optional)
hydration bladder or water bag with drinking tube (must also have 1 Nalgene Bottle or equivalent)
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Water purification (NW)
Purifies drinking water while on the climb
Examples:
Steri Pen, water filter, Potable Aqua, Polar Pure crystal iodine
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Large plastic bowl
Bring a 2-4 cup camping bowl or a plastic "Rubbermaid" style container for your mountain dining
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Lexan spoon or spork
Lightweight and strong
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Insulated cup (12-16oz)
A 12-16 oz (350-500 ml) mug with an attached lid will help keep you hydrated
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Pocket knife or multitool
Simple Swiss Army type with scissors. Make sure you transport in checked bag, not carry-on!
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Toiletry kit (NW)
toilet paper stored in double zip lock bags
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Nylon stuff sacks
for food and gear storage, large ziplocs are useful
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Large plastic bags
heavy duty trash compactor bags recommended
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Bandana (optional)
lightweight
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Snacks (general)
Bring your favorite snacks and power/energy bars or if there is something else you particularly like to eat while hiking and climbing
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Camera (optional)
or any sort of device that takes pictures
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Accessory cord for sled tie offs (40-50ft)
should be around 4-5mm
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Travel clothing
Comfortable clothing for travel before and after the expedition
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Denali Prep Course
$1,500
5 Days
Route
The slopes and glaciers of Mount Rainier
Client to guide ratio
4:1
Elevation
7,500+ ft / 2286+ m
Difficulty
Intermediate
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