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- Jul 31, 2013
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Ice fall, Winds and Beautiful Blue Skies on Mt. Rainier
Our group of mostly long time Mountain Madness climbers Matthias, David, Krista and Krista all met at Second Ascent the morning of July 8th. There had been some last minute changes to our Mt. Rainier trip roster and repeat Mountain Madness clients David and Matthias joined the trip only a few weeks prior to the climb. However having climbed with MM before, their skills and excitement were more than adequate for the trip. We completed our gear check, packed up and began the drive south to Paradise, our jumping off point for the five day climb.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FRainier.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=9902393d11e31b3ffb7988680b915f47 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FRainier.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=2eaea4a108568f476547cb9ca35911e4 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FRainier.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=9c667b753d313b2113dd31a2115f17bd 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FRainier.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=b0cc35c703f5ffb1d1f3932758008430 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FRainier.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=cdf3edf29b2a4157c00e6f49522b2097 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FRainier.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=1bb939ea2823e59cb12db8ac51c493d9 1200w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FRainier.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=43181224a6611b0299bd5d7fa519c117 1400w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FRainier.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=1b62fc9372e0cadbe2dda0775821d59a 1600w)
Mt. Rainier. Mountain Madness photo
After a little bit of a run-around trying to check in we were set and ready to begin our hike under a cloudless blue sky. As many know, the first mile is almost always crowded with day hikers and tourists and this day was no different. But soon we would hardly see another team, except in passing or in the distance. After a little more than an hour after leaving the crowded trail to Camp Muir we turned down a steep snow slope which required a belayed glissade, down to the still snow-covered lateral moraine of the Nisqually Glacier. We crossed onto the center of the glacier and set up our camp with all of Mt. Rainier towering above us.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fkrista_krista_nisqually1.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=e43a61abe24219249b8210a064a761b7 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fkrista_krista_nisqually1.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=c03ad736bd52f352426cf01eff0aa7e6 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fkrista_krista_nisqually1.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=3cc42c1a1ad6c63d78b8487786be5f46 550w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fkrista_krista_nisqually1.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=e74682ff5c3f58fcff82aac9acd00e64 550w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fkrista_krista_nisqually1.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=0d1e79eb00290f6ede2a8f682dc93be2 550w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fkrista_krista_nisqually1.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=b77625a73e80755b3a465aab80c9ac39 550w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fkrista_krista_nisqually1.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=7d3441a6a26bc9ff7009c6722e6b0737 550w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fkrista_krista_nisqually1.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=4fd17c78d25565bc6fa22d0cdfaf06d7 550w)
Krista and Krista at our first camp on the Nisqually Glacier . Ian Nicholson photo
The next morning we awoke to another day of beautiful blue skies and we set off towards our next camp, ‘The Castle’. The normal “Fan” approach to gain the Wilson glacier was melted out so we found a route further to the right which involved some steeper snow climbing next to the massive Nisqually ice fall. Along the way on the lower Wapowety Cleaver we stopped for some ice climbing training in a spectacular crevasse.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fdavid_icecliming.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=42de04ca0d63d5fae46c59a36383c5f5 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fdavid_icecliming.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=f5cf47db9e9db1fa21e33fa540ac78eb 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fdavid_icecliming.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=087e850c2492c8690c86610392fa729a 550w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fdavid_icecliming.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=b71d3c8c5be31a552ef75f2c5ff58fdf 550w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fdavid_icecliming.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=d67a4625bccc7576eec10182fb6fc2b2 550w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fdavid_icecliming.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=112e18c0f8f8879906d72ccb05856559 550w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fdavid_icecliming.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=dcaafa3ae79c0ebf4aab2153d2dee6af 550w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fdavid_icecliming.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=9f88867c813ba3edcbaf9f3402cdc9a7 550w)
David practicing ice climbing techniques on the Wilson Glacier. Ian Nicholson photo
After a few hours of refining techniques and skills needed for the infamous ice wall on the upper Kautz we continued up another hour and a half to our camp for the night. The Castle Camp is a spectacular camp perched at 9,200ft on the Wapowety, and we enjoyed a dinner of deep dish pizza along with fantastic views of Mt, Adams, Mt. St. Helens, Mt. Hood and even Mt. Jefferson, which is over 100 miles away.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fcliming.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=067982729c9e3a6dae55f8d15e26862f 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fcliming.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=fd5fa915f229c5dbf8368252fe69bf26 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fcliming.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=5a18254ebd15b293b2d07b6b38690ca8 550w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fcliming.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=1698918d9dee137fe8d4eb9579a165a0 550w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fcliming.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=653a5e51f604df6e98a5ee5f9fb3e54e 550w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fcliming.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=146185db2d92be21e8b975e40637ca10 550w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fcliming.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=a125e5ce234f3a59719c95b35f500e2c 550w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fcliming.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=aaa37c58b07d145fc2996bf4aed84d4d 550w)
The next day we awoke and packed up camp in strong winds and began our climb up the unrelentingly steep “Turtle” snowfield whose name derives from its slight resemblance to a Turtle shell when viewed from afar. Above 10,000ft most of the climbers on our team really started to feel the altitude and the Turtles strenuous nature. At the top of the Turtle we reached our high camp at 10,800ft, unofficially named ‘The New Camp Hazard’. The old Camp Hazard which is no longer used is a few hundred feet higher but heavily threatened by icefall and seracs. By mid-day when we arrived at camp, the wind had really started to blow with steady 40 – 50mph winds and occasional stronger gusts. The wind was extremely violent and even the simplest tasks became involved endeavors. We began setting up camp and improving the existing tent-high rock walls to try and buffer our tents from the wind, but ultimately we would suffer two broken tent poles. Even lighting the stoves was an arduous task. Our group tried to go to bed but during the night the tents flapped incessantly and I don’t think anyone was able to sleep much. Fortunately, the forecast for the following day indicated that the winds for the next day were supposed to die down. Going to sleep that night everyone was nervous but excited to make a push for the summit despite the winds, so we thought we would go and give it our best shot.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fsummit_morn.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=49d45fa5f776cb91715e4553a246812a 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fsummit_morn.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=474d208b8241c6150d8384afb69219bf 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fsummit_morn.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=c96051cc591a1426f0d7dfbdc9d6282d 550w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fsummit_morn.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=20a3f1f499663828956ac82cca9ee28e 550w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fsummit_morn.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=9232af02ba093de90998f968c6d61508 550w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fsummit_morn.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=1839eee816d3044890612e948a543f3d 550w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fsummit_morn.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=380903cd9fa0b94212c9523756db99cf 550w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fsummit_morn.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=0f704a30938b7fff67a2fc922c03ba85 550w)
Summit morning. Krista Wassermann photo
Upon arising at 3:30am, the winds had not died down in the least, but the group was willing to give it a good try. In the dark we started making our way up the hill out of camp. We passed another party, still in tents who were holding due to radio calls from the other side of the mountain informing them how bad the winds were.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fhigh_camp.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=ac6cde99897fc20a5c9af45102177761 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fhigh_camp.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=a33e16791eecfdeea9b336f92edba470 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fhigh_camp.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=5712d05b82ee664550c5d0fbac7e4510 550w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fhigh_camp.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=7841693c4714a88069918a66c5b752a2 550w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fhigh_camp.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=fdb124d9a8af0ce32726ef9d66d77a1f 550w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fhigh_camp.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=5b972cf0a02bb0b916b75f11b9b73aaa 550w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fhigh_camp.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=b86435c16bd92fa44abafc1ddf4a6d66 550w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fhigh_camp.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=a78288333e6c1da15c7dc8bd06bb0be1 550w)
Our tents getting hammered by winds at the new Camp Hazard at 10,800ft. Ian Nicholson photo
At 11,200ft we made the traverse over the rock step at the top of the Wapowety and traversed below the massive Katuz ice cliff. Right before we crossed below the gulley to gain the step, suddenly piles of ice blocks came crashing down right in front of us giving the group a strong adrenaline rush. After the ice blocks ceased falling we ran across the gulley, exposed to ice fall but keeping an eye out for any more activity up high. Once below the ice wall we began our climb up two full length pitches of awesome alpine ice to gain the hanging bench between the steps.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fice_wall.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=df424b0af4c0fc89ccde624435c6b6ed 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fice_wall.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=d53dcc29b194a0a0f193bc89f2ee69f9 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fice_wall.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=17e6fbd3c34010c8c2938c1a43b63c7a 550w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fice_wall.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=3d4ba95e0cc0dc4bb2b27e1918c7d6af 550w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fice_wall.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=df83c000776a6fa82a84b740bc0c4549 550w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fice_wall.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=1023870f09dbdd284491755e7619de24 550w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fice_wall.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=9f4e269ddb2016eceafb520e07250871 550w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fice_wall.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=aa61409672e155b97a21e3044b9aa76c 550w)
The group on the first ice step on the Katuz ice cliff. Ian Nicholson photo
After moving together we reached the base of the second and crux ice step. Stretching 350 feet above us this towering ice cliff is an impressive site to behold. The group quickly dispatched it with their newly found ice climbing skills, relishing in the “thud…thud….kick….kick” movements of ice climbing.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fkristas_on_ice_wall.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=12717d7890fc60574854f8d713858e09 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fkristas_on_ice_wall.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=aab6333a17b4f3785febbdc331d4920f 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fkristas_on_ice_wall.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=3522613bd4df9d16aef7e8d63d687b64 550w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fkristas_on_ice_wall.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=62862c29636eb2047f1a5fab8fb1e123 550w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fkristas_on_ice_wall.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=07514fa05b30ad123385077cc9978d4c 550w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fkristas_on_ice_wall.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=0e8c68ad80a288f3fbbb1a4f43bbc091 550w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fkristas_on_ice_wall.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=c638ed5915cb91c80bb39183f1bf6a49 550w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fkristas_on_ice_wall.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=0b3afec40ba979d661a795ab67d1c5a7 550w)
Krista and Krista on the crux second ice step of the Kautz cliff. Ian Nicholson photo
Once past the ice wall we made our way up complex glacier travel, winding around gaping crevasses. At this point the wind was dying down to a more manageable 25 – 35mph. Above 13,000ft there were several exciting crevasse bridges and it appeared we had the mountain to ourselves; no other people in sight. After nearly 12 hours of hard fought terrain we pulled into the summit crater, crossed the summit rim and took the final steep steps up the Columbia Crest and the summit of Mt. Rainier!!!!
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fsummit.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=2d9dde7c6bae9aee9f59f8113a9019d4 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fsummit.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=32f81788434f81321c94bab5bfe74baf 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fsummit.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=30d882fdbcaa1c04d7d83cb22a8c18b7 550w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fsummit.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=f2b27cfa5037a1cddc4c9fa06017a27f 550w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fsummit.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=6063f02424740e663fe8e9d6dc817788 550w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fsummit.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=1789222ea8e8a4d1df9892794cc4c21e 550w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fsummit.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=af580dedeee3d136c15b4f8662f0c9d9 550w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fsummit.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=8bca24fa1f3513e08236e7bcee2f04a1 550w)
The group on the summit of Mt. Rainier 14,411ft! Ian Nicholson photo
Because of the late hour we didn’t spend much time on the summit. We snapped a few summit photos, signed the summit register and down we went. We made fast progress down the upper glacier and after a few double rope length lowers we were below the ice cliff, over the rock step in Wapowety cleaver and back in camp just before dark. The wind had now almost completely stopped, making camp infinitely nicer. We ate dinner, melted some water and went to bed. The next day we woke up to light snow falling and our first overcast skies of the trip.
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The group back in Paradise after a successful summit! Ian Nicholson photo
After breaking camp we walked down the turtle snowfield and crossed the Wilson and Nisqually glaciers, climbing back up the lateral moraine to Glacier Vista. Shortly after that we were back to our starting place, Paradise, completely elated that all of the group had achieved a life-long goal of climbing Mt. Rainier.
~ MM Guide Ian Nicholson