- Home
- Climbs
- Jul 19, 2011
-
-
Email -
Facebook -
Pinterest -
Twitter
-
Success on Mount Rainier and Mount Hood!
While MounÂtain MadÂness is not one of the main conÂcesÂsionÂaires perÂmitÂted to operÂate year-round in Mt. Rainier NationÂal Park, we are forÂtuÂnate to offer one sumÂmit climb durÂing the each sumÂmer seaÂson. In addiÂtion, our WinÂter CUA perÂmit allows us to ski tour, teach avalanche coursÂes, and train for expeÂdiÂtions in the winÂter months (Nov to May). This year, we chose the Emmons GlacÂiÂer route of our usuÂal choice over the Kautz GlacÂiÂer. In addiÂtion to this sucÂcessÂful trip, we were asked by a small group of great return clients to arranged a guidÂed climb of a hardÂer snow and ice route on Oregon’s Mt. Hood. TeamÂing up with TimÂberÂline Mtn. Guides, and using their perÂmit, this trip saw our guides headÂing south to the southÂern-most volÂcano in the CasÂcade Range. Two great trips!

A rope team headÂing to Rainier’s sumÂmit. AlasÂdair TurnÂer photo

Wildlife at GlacÂiÂer Basin Camp. AlasÂdair TurnÂer photo
Mount Rainier
“I just got back from a climb of Mount Rainier with MounÂtain MadÂness. It was a return group of folks that I climbed with in Bolivia last year. The Mt. Rainier climb starts with the driÂve to Mt. Rainier NationÂal Park and then a short hike to the GlacÂiÂer Basin camp. We spend the night there and conÂtinÂue up to Camp SherÂman the next day. Although some peoÂple choose to climb from the trail head all the way to Camp SherÂman the same day the break at GlacÂiÂer Basin makes for a much more enjoyÂable hike and an overÂall betÂter experience.

DanÂny learnÂing the details of the First Light tent. AlasÂdair TurnÂer photo
“We got an earÂly start the folÂlowÂing mornÂing and headÂed up the InterÂglacÂiÂer to the ridge below Camp Sherman.
“Once at Camp SherÂman we had the option of climbÂing to the sumÂmit the folÂlowÂing mornÂing or takÂing a rest day and headÂing to the sumÂmit the next day. GivÂen the unstaÂble weathÂer we decidÂed to take a rest day.

Camp at 4 a.m. AlasÂdair TurnÂer photo
“The next mornÂing was clear and cold. The weathÂer foreÂcast for most of the Puget Sound was for rain. We were above that rain, so we roped up and headÂed for the summit.

TraÂversÂing above a crevasse. AlasÂdair TurnÂer photo

It is always worth takÂing the time to stop and fix blisÂters before they get worse.
Guide extraÂorÂdiÂnaire Jaime doing some blisÂter mainÂteÂnance. AlasÂdair TurnÂer photo
“DanÂny, MarÂgen and NanÂcy all went to the sumÂmit with Jamie. Rick and I turned around and headÂed down.

MarÂgen and NanÂcy drinkÂing tea after climbÂing Mt. Rainier. AlasÂdair TurnÂer photo
“The folÂlowÂing day we headÂed down, getÂting an earÂly start knowÂing that food, and beer were waitÂing for us back in town.”
- AlasÂdair Turner
Mount Hood
“We met the group at 8am at the scenic and hisÂtoric TimÂberÂline lodge on the South side of Mt. Hood, home to North AmerÂiÂca’s only year round ski resort. After a brief gear check we escaped the craziÂness of ski camps on the south side of the mounÂtain to the perÂfectÂly clear skies and the long hike in. There was a lot less snow than in the North CasÂcades and it was a pleasÂant surÂprise to hike on dirt instead of snow for a sigÂnifÂiÂcant porÂtion of the hike.

Mt. Hood. Ian NicholÂson photo
“We startÂed at around 3,400 feet and walked up a large moraine above the Cloud Cap Inn and dropped onto the lowÂer Elliot GlacÂiÂer at around 6,500 feet. We ascendÂed the glacÂiÂer to anothÂer moraine sepÂaÂratÂing the Elliot GlacÂiÂer from the Coe GlacÂiÂer around 7,800 feet. It was a long, hard day with an over‑4,000-foot gain, but it meant we wouldÂn’t have to move camp again for the rest of our trip.

PracÂticÂing crevasse resÂcue. Ian NicholÂson photo
“We slept in the next mornÂing and had a nice large panÂcake breakÂfast. We reviewed snow anchors, ice axe usage and varÂiÂous crevasse resÂcue techÂniques. On our third day, we conÂductÂed a steep snow climbÂing school, focusÂing on ice axe usage and foot work. The group hiked over to the west side of the Elliot GlacÂiÂer iceÂfall to put our crevasse resÂcue techÂniques into pracÂtice! As a result, each perÂson got the chance to be lowÂered into a creavsse; a scary idea, but an amazÂing expeÂriÂence nonetheÂless! We finÂished up with a newÂer crevasse resÂcue techÂnique, Team C, that allows the vicÂtim to be extractÂed in less than five minutes.

BeauÂtiÂful alpine start. Ian NicholÂson photo
“We went to bed earÂly in prepaÂraÂtion for a very earÂly mornÂing. We were grateÂful for a trip full of perÂfect weathÂer conÂdiÂtions, and were hapÂpy to see the conÂdiÂtions holdÂing when we awoke on the mornÂing of July 4th. At 1 a.m. the stars and the Milky Way filled the sky with not a cloud in sight. We departÂed camp, leavÂing our tents and stoves for a mounÂtain guide ​“load hauler” to pick up and meet us on the othÂer side, savÂing us the pain of carÂryÂing the weight up and over.

TraÂversÂing off the sumÂmit. Ian NicholÂson photo
“The sun hit us just as we got to the steep, 50-degree secÂtion of the climb that led us to a large maze of crevassÂes to weave through. The crux of the route, a short 10-foot tall secÂtion of verÂtiÂcal ice climbÂing, chalÂlenged the team as they put their new skills to test. Five more pitchÂes of 40 – 55 degree Neve and we reached the first flat secÂtion in 3 hours. As we ascendÂed the final exposed ridge, we encounÂtered parÂties askÂing ​“Did you realÂly come from that side?” as they looked down the incredÂiÂbly steep North Face — over 1,000 feet of expoÂsure on both sides. Our group proudÂly answered ​“yes, and we haven’t seen anyÂone in days!”

Close to the sumÂmit! Ian NicholÂson photo
“We hung out on the sumÂmit for 45 minÂutes, enjoyÂing the sun and watchÂing othÂer climbers enjoyÂing their 4th of July. The descent was quite a change from comÂplete isoÂlaÂtion to joinÂing the mass crowd of climbers. HowÂevÂer, we appreÂciÂatÂed the shortÂer descent and we were all hapÂpy to arrive in our new camp with our tents and stoves already set up!”
- Ian Nicholson

The group at the sumÂmit! Ian NicholÂson photo