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- Jul 19, 2011
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Success on Mount Rainier and Mount Hood!
While Mountain Madness is not one of the main concessionaires permitted to operate year-round in Mt. Rainier National Park, we are fortunate to offer one summit climb during the each summer season. In addition, our Winter CUA permit allows us to ski tour, teach avalanche courses, and train for expeditions in the winter months (Nov to May). This year, we chose the Emmons Glacier route of our usual choice over the Kautz Glacier. In addition to this successful trip, we were asked by a small group of great return clients to arranged a guided climb of a harder snow and ice route on Oregon’s Mt. Hood. Teaming up with Timberline Mtn. Guides, and using their permit, this trip saw our guides heading south to the southern-most volcano in the Cascade Range. Two great trips!
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDSC_4088.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=1ce4c30015fe4bb38f12f66b89a5d996 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDSC_4088.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=11d3e0aa64f7057f533e893ed601067d 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDSC_4088.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=349ff121341d2da73f3b75f2415d96c4 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDSC_4088.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=11e0efdb2c38f84ea04c763790a85250 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDSC_4088.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=292b4296fbf03eb88de2c464f07de0fe 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDSC_4088.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=0e93347fd2421d3009d4454de5cb9f90 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDSC_4088.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=4b93851d6a2d9c5cd42b9902619d91cd 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDSC_4088.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=81341f32798d8ef7d9e5473e802f404b 1024w)
A rope team heading to Rainier’s summit. Alasdair Turner photo
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDSC_4026.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=398ba02f0df6bc4d998d4c1b583ccd86 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDSC_4026.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=5d5834c0c4cdda9c8ca58670fa8271c3 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDSC_4026.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=2993611cc89df6b714f5a96a5cac34ce 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDSC_4026.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=07b6d9823f71b6f8408422a7c778e543 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDSC_4026.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=60b950025361265008787932c2f566a7 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDSC_4026.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=3ffcfca1b60eaff944edcc9075bbe60b 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDSC_4026.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=59ff7dabd3fc39a1e59d658166528a04 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDSC_4026.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=ed803f75c1f6969baaa0bbe7514e9730 1024w)
Wildlife at Glacier Basin Camp. Alasdair Turner photo
Mount Rainier
“I just got back from a climb of Mount Rainier with Mountain Madness. It was a return group of folks that I climbed with in Bolivia last year. The Mt. Rainier climb starts with the drive to Mt. Rainier National Park and then a short hike to the Glacier Basin camp. We spend the night there and continue up to Camp Sherman the next day. Although some people choose to climb from the trail head all the way to Camp Sherman the same day the break at Glacier Basin makes for a much more enjoyable hike and an overall better experience.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDSC_4018.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=718ae0bbe27fd596eeb0d2eb3313c33e 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDSC_4018.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=504f97d6d1a4796b097f78b26e71028e 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDSC_4018.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=19b06497e7af56bf6a7adb57243ae4af 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDSC_4018.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=2f65bb3cc044af925bd47c64231271bd 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDSC_4018.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=b914e08e15ecad43c4c0c6fd66f19056 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDSC_4018.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=44df5a71a7c6879dedbd4e89bbc3d993 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDSC_4018.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=ea452663f5e573d857f6aa9cb10cc156 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDSC_4018.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=b746657331b2d1088bafdc0d4fd274c9 1024w)
Danny learning the details of the First Light tent. Alasdair Turner photo
“We got an early start the following morning and headed up the Interglacier to the ridge below Camp Sherman.
“Once at Camp Sherman we had the option of climbing to the summit the following morning or taking a rest day and heading to the summit the next day. Given the unstable weather we decided to take a rest day.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDSC_4220.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=695bb6c2e8d3ab8080900076b7ca06e2 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDSC_4220.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=3c6b25b24f0e4c76094f55bf7d568eb4 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDSC_4220.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=bfc380f0febd9170722bd54f01458fc8 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDSC_4220.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=48851ee72e67d35695318a60fef71bde 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDSC_4220.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=bf957763e75bc71fbf581b36a0a62d39 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDSC_4220.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=069e06a28dc202a45eed6562580dbcfd 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDSC_4220.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=e7c414d0e82ebc6ed74d3ca76f7777f1 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDSC_4220.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=053e6bcafce7aa5380c95d6b654f47bc 1024w)
Camp at 4 a.m. Alasdair Turner photo
“The next morning was clear and cold. The weather forecast for most of the Puget Sound was for rain. We were above that rain, so we roped up and headed for the summit.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDSC_4242.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=66614dd36a6a92564143867806f3313c 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDSC_4242.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=ba8a0b492c272cb573c311adfe05d46c 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDSC_4242.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=2ca36688470015afd6ec7aab9ff51079 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDSC_4242.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=948303ad7ef74265175f6e5bfd70b8c5 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDSC_4242.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=60a9114c7f72dd1c6fbf651335d0f3b9 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDSC_4242.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=3e359f7f27727ff9be0f59eb56d43765 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDSC_4242.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=41756d7ee55ad7bcf0c4e4c53e8113b1 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDSC_4242.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=72d6564dcb852adf73eff9019f54736d 1024w)
Traversing above a crevasse. Alasdair Turner photo
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDSC_4267.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=194d577dac295d24a56b17c7b19eec44 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDSC_4267.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=fd0f08be0aea0bf48f4089c35376f637 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDSC_4267.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=ac1836e9b3eb91be468d7e3dab6f9e8c 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDSC_4267.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=29b06dc5e6fd86fb096560659b12dec0 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDSC_4267.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=98842d13336ab3704643f373cdbe44d2 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDSC_4267.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=c749a827b6f7d99cabdbdcbb8c6b3b9f 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDSC_4267.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=e6bbd58c5cc2c2a94f455f0ee555011c 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDSC_4267.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=6a74db3a01aabff256eeed1a67f793be 1024w)
It is always worth taking the time to stop and fix blisters before they get worse.
Guide extraordinaire Jaime doing some blister maintenance. Alasdair Turner photo
“Danny, Margen and Nancy all went to the summit with Jamie. Rick and I turned around and headed down.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDSC_4175.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=05023e731e2c3ec3039f6f963b717fab 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDSC_4175.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=4aa72cd8a81d412dd63d763c79484308 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDSC_4175.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=86b00c3037e2fe17ad499daed3bc30c5 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDSC_4175.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=9d5d1a2f524bf8d697a698617db7b100 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDSC_4175.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=201516fcdadfe08002f0115f52f2e5a1 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDSC_4175.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=dd12a73212f41b864b7514cbfdd45a87 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDSC_4175.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=238ebd7c685384cd2ed9df3796253f5d 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDSC_4175.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=e151bd33f60f962ffe78bff61417d71d 1024w)
Margen and Nancy drinking tea after climbing Mt. Rainier. Alasdair Turner photo
“The following day we headed down, getting an early start knowing that food, and beer were waiting for us back in town.”
- Alasdair Turner
Mount Hood
“We met the group at 8am at the scenic and historic Timberline lodge on the South side of Mt. Hood, home to North America’s only year round ski resort. After a brief gear check we escaped the craziness of ski camps on the south side of the mountain to the perfectly clear skies and the long hike in. There was a lot less snow than in the North Cascades and it was a pleasant surprise to hike on dirt instead of snow for a significant portion of the hike.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2F100_4282.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=b2bf41af442c521ff2dea18407ec759f 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2F100_4282.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=348de43d59e1cc475646c4edf8b56502 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2F100_4282.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=0b2ae9184fc4b131cefea3ca4ff7bba5 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2F100_4282.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=5b567e864b9840e7f70bf079c3987760 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2F100_4282.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=43eb700f8c784bdabd3ae05159612590 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2F100_4282.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=583a8fc1b8e31498fae0d0546c6e2929 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2F100_4282.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=dab56d0ad1c915d83c84c86d551f8422 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2F100_4282.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=8eaa219a91992fd0adece7093e841c02 1024w)
Mt. Hood. Ian Nicholson photo
“We started at around 3,400 feet and walked up a large moraine above the Cloud Cap Inn and dropped onto the lower Elliot Glacier at around 6,500 feet. We ascended the glacier to another moraine separating the Elliot Glacier from the Coe Glacier around 7,800 feet. It was a long, hard day with an over‑4,000-foot gain, but it meant we wouldn’t have to move camp again for the rest of our trip.
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Practicing crevasse rescue. Ian Nicholson photo
“We slept in the next morning and had a nice large pancake breakfast. We reviewed snow anchors, ice axe usage and various crevasse rescue techniques. On our third day, we conducted a steep snow climbing school, focusing on ice axe usage and foot work. The group hiked over to the west side of the Elliot Glacier icefall to put our crevasse rescue techniques into practice! As a result, each person got the chance to be lowered into a creavsse; a scary idea, but an amazing experience nonetheless! We finished up with a newer crevasse rescue technique, Team C, that allows the victim to be extracted in less than five minutes.
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Beautiful alpine start. Ian Nicholson photo
“We went to bed early in preparation for a very early morning. We were grateful for a trip full of perfect weather conditions, and were happy to see the conditions holding when we awoke on the morning of July 4th. At 1 a.m. the stars and the Milky Way filled the sky with not a cloud in sight. We departed camp, leaving our tents and stoves for a mountain guide “load hauler” to pick up and meet us on the other side, saving us the pain of carrying the weight up and over.
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Traversing off the summit. Ian Nicholson photo
“The sun hit us just as we got to the steep, 50-degree section of the climb that led us to a large maze of crevasses to weave through. The crux of the route, a short 10-foot tall section of vertical ice climbing, challenged the team as they put their new skills to test. Five more pitches of 40 – 55 degree Neve and we reached the first flat section in 3 hours. As we ascended the final exposed ridge, we encountered parties asking “Did you really come from that side?” as they looked down the incredibly steep North Face — over 1,000 feet of exposure on both sides. Our group proudly answered “yes, and we haven’t seen anyone in days!”
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Close to the summit! Ian Nicholson photo
“We hung out on the summit for 45 minutes, enjoying the sun and watching other climbers enjoying their 4th of July. The descent was quite a change from complete isolation to joining the mass crowd of climbers. However, we appreciated the shorter descent and we were all happy to arrive in our new camp with our tents and stoves already set up!”
- Ian Nicholson
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The group at the summit! Ian Nicholson photo