- Home
- Trips
- Oct 26, 2020
-
-
Email -
Facebook -
Pinterest -
Twitter
-
Chasing the sun and warm desert rock
As the Pacific high pressure system shifts south toward the equator for the winter, fall marks the almost certain onset of grey and wet weather in the PNW. With this climbers find themselves twiddling their thumbs — eventually heading south in search of dry rock and sunny days. Story by MM guide Jake Skeen
There are many popular fall climbing destinations across the west with different styles for everyone. Whether you’re in search of splitter cracks, big walls, or crimps and bolts you can’t go wrong between Smith Rock, Trout Creek, Yosemite, Joshua Tree, Red Rock Canyon, Moab/Indian Creek, and Zion. I’ve had the pleasure of working with Mountain Madness guests in the Moab desert the past couple falls — here’s what it’s all about.
Short approaches, car camping, and light backpacks are welcomed after a long season of alpine slogging in the Cascades. Climbing in the Utah desert is characterized by cold starry nights, warm sunny days, and beautiful red sandstone rock. The two biggest draws from a climber’s standpoint are the stand-alone towers that paint the skyline and the long, continuous cracks that split the faces of sandstone walls.
![Moab rock climbing](https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/moab-rock-climbing.f1603750977.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1826&q=80&w=2200&s=5c1b8e0e0a5c8cd6d38f1f1de4110d15 2200w 1826h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/moab-rock-climbing.f1603750977.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1660&q=80&w=2000&s=10e5a4e0aafcb68b3b122522e827494b 2000w 1660h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/moab-rock-climbing.f1603750977.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1494&q=80&w=1800&s=56f89aee4c660447cc791243ad72785e 1800w 1494h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/moab-rock-climbing.f1603750977.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1328&q=80&w=1600&s=fbb9c2ac72243d2b3ec8326fea5564c0 1600w 1328h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/moab-rock-climbing.f1603750977.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1162&q=80&w=1400&s=193092a55808f8e195e581de3f9b24e1 1400w 1162h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/moab-rock-climbing.f1603750977.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=996&q=80&w=1200&s=e7a775e1749bc3d614a7b4cb19fd4ca5 1200w 996h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/moab-rock-climbing.f1603750977.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=830&q=80&w=1000&s=55abcaa9c44c6c5a696adf5ffffbf0e5 1000w 830h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/moab-rock-climbing.f1603750977.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=664&q=80&w=800&s=8974ddbef155ec0c6024397e0c7bf4b3 800w 664h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/moab-rock-climbing.f1603750977.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=498&q=80&w=600&s=d6c4184dfca006223be7f63c46ec26fa 600w 498h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/moab-rock-climbing.f1603750977.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=332&q=80&w=400&s=60e0e6380fbe9e9708b6cfdbddd4ab3c 400w 332h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/moab-rock-climbing.f1603750977.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=166&q=80&w=200&s=4e905cef1ab30701a35d904a95c1d3f0 200w 166h)
After a week of climbing long routes in Zion, I met Jamie and Brendan for some Indian Creek crack climbing. The theme of last year’s trip with them was summiting towers around Moab including Castleton, Ancient Art, and Lighthouse. One of our goals this trip was to focus on jamming technique in Indian Creek. Jamie and Brendan quickly realized stuffing their fingers, hands and feet into cracks was the only way up the rock due to the lack of real “holds”. Learning by necessity is a good way to do it! We also took a quick lap up South Six Shooter tower to round out our time in The Creek. “Rest day” activities around Moab included mountain bike rides, rope swings, and milkshake consumption.
I met up with Aga after Jamie and Brendan left and we began our weekend of climbing with single pitch cragging on Potash road. This area is perched above the Colorado river with hundreds of routes that involve essentially no approach — great for maximizing time on rock! After dialing in our slab climbing technique we drove northwest of town and climbed a 1000’ slab route. Good footwork, balance and friction were the keys to success.
![Crack climbing moab](https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/crack-climbing-moab.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1833&q=80&w=2200&s=7b9efda4f564d360b17133b58c48e20c 2200w 1833h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/crack-climbing-moab.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1667&q=80&w=2000&s=abf2dbf3ed1134cd82ee31765b1929ee 2000w 1667h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/crack-climbing-moab.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1500&q=80&w=1800&s=47b5c0fc32b88473546552c1c4576c61 1800w 1500h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/crack-climbing-moab.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1333&q=80&w=1600&s=2f135f9aaf463a64c01ce0a11d880535 1600w 1333h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/crack-climbing-moab.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1167&q=80&w=1400&s=da44befd67ee160cc42b99850cee99c4 1400w 1167h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/crack-climbing-moab.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1000&q=80&w=1200&s=e33f100a5bd3b1de5ddb7f40c6189f59 1200w 1000h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/crack-climbing-moab.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=833&q=80&w=1000&s=14f43f5fd41e54eb1584da3adfaa9e57 1000w 833h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/crack-climbing-moab.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=667&q=80&w=800&s=ec2ca4a4be369d10562b708eba925c18 800w 667h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/crack-climbing-moab.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=500&q=80&w=600&s=ba4558e718e56d73351921cdc0b4be5c 600w 500h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/crack-climbing-moab.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=333&q=80&w=400&s=fe52258188919d2d2b85dde165f27be5 400w 333h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/crack-climbing-moab.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=167&q=80&w=200&s=3c24cf79bcbc3433b098ea25a79f414a 200w 167h)
![Crack climbing near colorado riiver](https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/crack-climbing-near-colorado-riiver.jpeg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1833&q=80&w=2200&s=039ec3388e526dba639cb53e89ca0ad7 2200w 1833h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/crack-climbing-near-colorado-riiver.jpeg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1667&q=80&w=2000&s=8ad21ea9e29d86a61915fd89ff1c350f 2000w 1667h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/crack-climbing-near-colorado-riiver.jpeg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1500&q=80&w=1800&s=381174af69b1faf37efd4bd12cbca1fd 1800w 1500h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/crack-climbing-near-colorado-riiver.jpeg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1333&q=80&w=1600&s=5b7ae9d98d6cde640e715175dbf88e71 1600w 1333h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/crack-climbing-near-colorado-riiver.jpeg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1167&q=80&w=1400&s=f26aae9d19da2d31ab3438dfbd3e35b7 1400w 1167h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/crack-climbing-near-colorado-riiver.jpeg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1000&q=80&w=1200&s=9b52ce363310df86bc61b02677e4a4b2 1200w 1000h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/crack-climbing-near-colorado-riiver.jpeg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=833&q=80&w=1000&s=c38fc45b5cc61d95a2df069297849f97 1000w 833h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/crack-climbing-near-colorado-riiver.jpeg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=667&q=80&w=800&s=8be4f12e030c1b7fe8805356defe4296 800w 667h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/crack-climbing-near-colorado-riiver.jpeg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=500&q=80&w=600&s=8a600935de25e820a9b7026e85568c11 600w 500h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/crack-climbing-near-colorado-riiver.jpeg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=333&q=80&w=400&s=4d1e95e5944f04e96252dcb3882bf57e 400w 333h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/crack-climbing-near-colorado-riiver.jpeg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=167&q=80&w=200&s=c709b645daeb47f423944ab3742a07d4 200w 167h)
I would encourage all Mountain Madness guests who are interested in rock climbing to join us for fall desert adventures in the future. There is suitable climbing for everyone, and the lifestyle and scenery can’t be beat! See you on the snow this winter.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fgeneral-images%2Frock-climbing-utah-with-mountain-madness.jpeg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=a9a90d1e00165c8ea1a9236b5f19b2d0 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fgeneral-images%2Frock-climbing-utah-with-mountain-madness.jpeg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=c9aeccebcfa595e128673a489e0a75aa 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fgeneral-images%2Frock-climbing-utah-with-mountain-madness.jpeg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=03e9d9c07b17181ea02b3f262e7dbef1 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fgeneral-images%2Frock-climbing-utah-with-mountain-madness.jpeg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=c2f9d844223cae0137455918614e068e 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fgeneral-images%2Frock-climbing-utah-with-mountain-madness.jpeg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=a0f1f862fe89f04ce7119c1d75233240 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fgeneral-images%2Frock-climbing-utah-with-mountain-madness.jpeg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=81d95735dad73eb5b2dcc6fdae1b9ecc 1200w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fgeneral-images%2Frock-climbing-utah-with-mountain-madness.jpeg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=c903b79451cb9856015328914a931488 1400w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fgeneral-images%2Frock-climbing-utah-with-mountain-madness.jpeg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=00bb2975fc5a98b5c5531ee200422f69 1600w)
There is still time to enjoy the desert sun and get on some rock! Here’s some options to choose from: