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- Mar 22, 2023
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Alpine Climbing “Doing your Homework”
With the summer rock and alpine climbing season coming up fast now is the time to gather info for your planning. Here’s some helpful tips and tools from MM guide Stephen Heath. Start planning now!
Doing your homework for an alpine objective can make the difference between success and failure. What does that preparation look like? It’ll be a little different for everyone but here are some key things that help me in my homework for a climb. If you have an objective you dream of it may mean preparation will include taking a course before heading out to the climb. Or if you’re ready to go from an technical or experience standpoint the next step may be pulling out the maps and guidebooks. I highly recommend downloading Gaia or Caltopo for use as a gps on your phone in the moment and for planning your route before you leave the house.
![Olympus ACC 027](https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Olympus-ACC-027.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1833&q=80&w=2200&s=acf056e5240c52cc0cc829a7dcb2c2de 2200w 1833h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Olympus-ACC-027.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1667&q=80&w=2000&s=2fd21ef1254a7441e7add7487b69b9c9 2000w 1667h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Olympus-ACC-027.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1500&q=80&w=1800&s=eaf362c7cd37facdb82cf9b2d6ec5719 1800w 1500h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Olympus-ACC-027.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1333&q=80&w=1600&s=dc28fbee6b2a023f6885c50bcffac5f0 1600w 1333h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Olympus-ACC-027.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1167&q=80&w=1400&s=c63baeb1c124699e7363d5ea3b77c9b2 1400w 1167h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Olympus-ACC-027.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1000&q=80&w=1200&s=fcdfacc022085f28240ad10a3344f332 1200w 1000h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Olympus-ACC-027.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=833&q=80&w=1000&s=fa50d7cd4f1d8e3e433623ea60cc6f34 1000w 833h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Olympus-ACC-027.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=667&q=80&w=800&s=07bb2dbb6140ae9c10c88606d2df9b18 800w 667h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Olympus-ACC-027.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=500&q=80&w=600&s=913a079afd911713ab31d022d6a258b4 600w 500h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Olympus-ACC-027.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=333&q=80&w=400&s=7941a2f7a0267f43578334d5c126ff37 400w 333h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Olympus-ACC-027.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=167&q=80&w=200&s=714c44eca1144de38667b1932b20986d 200w 167h)
![P1000103](https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/P1000103.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1833&q=80&w=2200&s=8001dd8c90a30e25451112e4680115d3 2200w 1833h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/P1000103.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1667&q=80&w=2000&s=5f41966045af0c648b7ba97111ea900d 2000w 1667h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/P1000103.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1500&q=80&w=1800&s=29d0ba775a6325b92d8591fc79fa3ce9 1800w 1500h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/P1000103.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1333&q=80&w=1600&s=54f8f3b64bba6179ac4ff737a7a182c5 1600w 1333h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/P1000103.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1167&q=80&w=1400&s=cc9e17678fd6196dcd4053ebd6a0650c 1400w 1167h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/P1000103.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1000&q=80&w=1200&s=84a823f15cdd1c8f0d62480ecbec0536 1200w 1000h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/P1000103.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=833&q=80&w=1000&s=4255207298c46ea774e47e2f6525634c 1000w 833h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/P1000103.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=667&q=80&w=800&s=572cdcfb2347b83ff346d8a3f0ef6fac 800w 667h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/P1000103.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=500&q=80&w=600&s=6a8077a20ae36ac6db3614eb598c10b1 600w 500h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/P1000103.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=333&q=80&w=400&s=7eeabd1a7a7bafe4063ea8318b2ac176 400w 333h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/P1000103.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=167&q=80&w=200&s=239af886cf9890f4c67c2c8bdb1619d0 200w 167h)
Just like in backcountry skiing, trip planning before you leave the house is a very important part of climbing and mountaineering. So what does that look like? First I’ll google my proposed peak and route and look through Google images for route overlay photos (especially photos that were taken during the same time of year as my trip). I also look for pictures of specific places on the route that are important for route finding (i.e. route crux, entrance, exits, problem bergschrunds, hidden work arounds that are consistent annually). I’ll create a file in Google Drive and download the photos into this file. Then I’ll start looking for trip reports on a google search, or sites like Summit Post, stephabegg.com, Mountain Project, Cascade Climbers, and facebook climbing groups. I’ll take key aspects of their route descriptions (always with a grain of salt) and I’ll copy and paste them into the google drive file along with the photos. Make sure you have the beta on your descent options and bail options if they exist. Then I’ll make this drive available “offline” so I can access my “beta cache” in the mountains.
P.S. Unless you actually know the person giving info on the route always take their beta with a grain of salt. Especially the Mountainproject comments
![P7310065](https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/P7310065.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1833&q=80&w=2200&s=55db2bec8d3ac674319c5cc1ed800d7b 2200w 1833h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/P7310065.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1667&q=80&w=2000&s=ca733e85ccde1467d49a7f15556469e8 2000w 1667h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/P7310065.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1500&q=80&w=1800&s=c13c9de0a44b6b57c96734ff867b0581 1800w 1500h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/P7310065.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1333&q=80&w=1600&s=84b67717140304446bfc4bc1a7a6d848 1600w 1333h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/P7310065.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1167&q=80&w=1400&s=0d9a071b31c6c41c11228c7fc7530787 1400w 1167h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/P7310065.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1000&q=80&w=1200&s=669b0db6f541e955965e157ee43980ab 1200w 1000h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/P7310065.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=833&q=80&w=1000&s=95ecbf32a23afb52a6852b3dd4fdb547 1000w 833h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/P7310065.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=667&q=80&w=800&s=25713b9f78e759f4d97f6c576f6333dc 800w 667h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/P7310065.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=500&q=80&w=600&s=94c1e791f20827647f6ad42c66345fbc 600w 500h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/P7310065.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=333&q=80&w=400&s=3641905d338f96bf9a9999bc3fd3bdba 400w 333h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/P7310065.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=167&q=80&w=200&s=6e8a3aeaa87e1fcd62a8ea13c8fac4d3 200w 167h)
![04 approaching high camp below forbiddens west ridge](https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/04-approaching-high-camp-below-forbiddens-west-ridge.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1833&q=80&w=2200&s=d25d5fc4a998036e504d979736bffe26 2200w 1833h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/04-approaching-high-camp-below-forbiddens-west-ridge.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1667&q=80&w=2000&s=850b225b7a50c98857db7b35ebe18711 2000w 1667h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/04-approaching-high-camp-below-forbiddens-west-ridge.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1500&q=80&w=1800&s=3103e8a6548c13cd38403a16d54b975b 1800w 1500h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/04-approaching-high-camp-below-forbiddens-west-ridge.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1333&q=80&w=1600&s=1cadc1c3564e4fd86728b2de259f3be7 1600w 1333h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/04-approaching-high-camp-below-forbiddens-west-ridge.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1167&q=80&w=1400&s=e5e8021b1dc2bb1108f89720aacc4158 1400w 1167h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/04-approaching-high-camp-below-forbiddens-west-ridge.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1000&q=80&w=1200&s=bf19cc76fe295f7f833c3ed68259c5e2 1200w 1000h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/04-approaching-high-camp-below-forbiddens-west-ridge.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=833&q=80&w=1000&s=54b9a8139e171058c9eee102bf1e6121 1000w 833h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/04-approaching-high-camp-below-forbiddens-west-ridge.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=667&q=80&w=800&s=e1117e82e47e7a6d7c05b17d0d52da99 800w 667h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/04-approaching-high-camp-below-forbiddens-west-ridge.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=500&q=80&w=600&s=194340914ec936ec6c79c63d56f7ac90 600w 500h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/04-approaching-high-camp-below-forbiddens-west-ridge.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=333&q=80&w=400&s=6135d56f38831862505b61bb65b072cd 400w 333h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/04-approaching-high-camp-below-forbiddens-west-ridge.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=167&q=80&w=200&s=d2c7cec441007a43efca0228912b8c82 200w 167h)
![P1000108](https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/P1000108.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1833&q=80&w=2200&s=822240e7ea8ec7d5ffb0506d4d5eb258 2200w 1833h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/P1000108.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1667&q=80&w=2000&s=2d2da280f39ac19543a8540d1bb63d68 2000w 1667h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/P1000108.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1500&q=80&w=1800&s=3a939f792fda8d3ec1e35c1cde294358 1800w 1500h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/P1000108.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1333&q=80&w=1600&s=e3f11060997572150c508f275d7e8c1c 1600w 1333h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/P1000108.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1167&q=80&w=1400&s=f43fc307f886561129da66bf4269752e 1400w 1167h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/P1000108.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1000&q=80&w=1200&s=381bc4d3b667685f05398495f605e9ea 1200w 1000h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/P1000108.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=833&q=80&w=1000&s=b91a5aa098b47a86e5b01cdbc89d371e 1000w 833h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/P1000108.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=667&q=80&w=800&s=e97a4893c8156d3adbe48cc22d2a4895 800w 667h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/P1000108.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=500&q=80&w=600&s=c2ea4ca88952af0a07d48299f54a8fee 600w 500h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/P1000108.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=333&q=80&w=400&s=f8cf0070982b7b0350ac2721912c8400 400w 333h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/P1000108.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=167&q=80&w=200&s=e0b6f7467abd2a53bca4fed33fc6100f 200w 167h)
The descent; an often underestimated part of a climbing objective. If you haven’t done your homework and aren’t dialed on rappel systems a great day of climbing in the alpine can quickly turn into an epic descent in the dark or spending the night in an unplanned bivy. Knowing the descent route, being efficient with setting up your rappels and handling the rope to avoid getting it stuck or causing rockfall are important skills.
For alpine routes I always carry a small knife, a couple quick links and extra 6 mil cord for cleaning and beefing up rappel stations that are questionable. If you add new cord or webbing make sure you cut out and pack out the old questionable cord. Don’t add to the rats nest and always inspect the quality of the rappel station.