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- Nov 18, 2010
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The other side of Nepal
Friendship bracelets
October 6 – 7
For visitors to Nepal, the city of Kathmandu is a sideshow complete with Hindu holy men walking the streets, monkeys grabbing at your pack at Buddhist temples, freak street lore from the days of the hippies, funeral ghats, a soap opera story of a fallen kingdom, and so much more – all captivating beyond description. And for trekkers, the relative wealth of the popular Everest and Annapurna regions brings a certain luxury to seeing the highest mountains in the world; we’re talking hot showers, comfortable beds, cell service, and the hospitality of the Sherpa communities. Step outside these places and it is altogether a different story.
Along with Mountain Madness trek leader Deana Zabaldo, I’m fortunate to visit the village of Talamarung, a three hour motorcycle ride that takes us out the Kathmandu valley and into rural Nepal. Here we visited a clinic, a school, and an orphanage, each ongoing projects Deana is involved with when not guiding in the Himalayas. For me all I offer is a stack of books, some crayons, friendship bracelets made by my daughter and friends, and the board game “Chutes and Ladders;” but, as I soon find out, even such small things have wondrous impact.
Mud leftover from the monsoon
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F2.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FTLBDEQPOuHI%2FAAAAAAAABNk%2Fe2r-N0aa_aY%2Fs400%2FP1000266.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=ca966e80e841ea30bbe7d9941940e626 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F2.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FTLBDEQPOuHI%2FAAAAAAAABNk%2Fe2r-N0aa_aY%2Fs400%2FP1000266.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=66f52733b51c9b32cd19338ef39a380e 400w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F2.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FTLBDEQPOuHI%2FAAAAAAAABNk%2Fe2r-N0aa_aY%2Fs400%2FP1000266.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=c2f3822e8d6ac0d786d801098c23a770 400w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F2.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FTLBDEQPOuHI%2FAAAAAAAABNk%2Fe2r-N0aa_aY%2Fs400%2FP1000266.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=6c78b02378e926fa135c6fbb8b799445 400w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F2.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FTLBDEQPOuHI%2FAAAAAAAABNk%2Fe2r-N0aa_aY%2Fs400%2FP1000266.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=44fb3826aeebaa8679f85740892252c0 400w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F2.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FTLBDEQPOuHI%2FAAAAAAAABNk%2Fe2r-N0aa_aY%2Fs400%2FP1000266.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=6b44365af8a3c00db8eb0dbadab85a16 400w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F2.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FTLBDEQPOuHI%2FAAAAAAAABNk%2Fe2r-N0aa_aY%2Fs400%2FP1000266.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=04ff332e8bf2f28bb070451124bb51d4 400w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F2.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FTLBDEQPOuHI%2FAAAAAAAABNk%2Fe2r-N0aa_aY%2Fs400%2FP1000266.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=7afa9e73dc3d950b534e817b575c70c5 400w)
More mud
As we wind our way up, out of the valley we pass through an area where all the trees are crooked, something Deana’s friend and co-worker Neel tells us is the result of a curse put on by a Hindu deity – an odd spectacle to be sure. About an hour out of Kathmandu we finally reach the crest where we see the Himalayan foothills spread out before us in lush green terraces and sub-tropical forests. Below, the Melamchi River winds its way through this deep valley, a river soon to be diverted with a huge waterworks project designed to meet the demands of a thirsty Kathmandu.
Himalayan foothills outside the Kathmandu Valley
The beauty here, though, belies the poverty. The challenges faced here are staggering. Through Deana’s organization and partnerships with local organizations we hope we can share the experience of seeing the other side of Nepal with our climbers and trekkers that join us here. For more information on how to donate or visit please visit Deana’s website.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F1.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FTLA_IxXDtoI%2FAAAAAAAABM8%2Fgc4YFegdaKw%2Fs400%2Fchutes.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=ac10ca34e852d70e910f46c3c1b8ca4b 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F1.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FTLA_IxXDtoI%2FAAAAAAAABM8%2Fgc4YFegdaKw%2Fs400%2Fchutes.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=3215739534109a46e209d26d2ba0ef45 400w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F1.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FTLA_IxXDtoI%2FAAAAAAAABM8%2Fgc4YFegdaKw%2Fs400%2Fchutes.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=218ced22ad88511a46d69dc2433433b2 400w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F1.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FTLA_IxXDtoI%2FAAAAAAAABM8%2Fgc4YFegdaKw%2Fs400%2Fchutes.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=79064f7be3d729cc43188ef90c625769 400w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F1.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FTLA_IxXDtoI%2FAAAAAAAABM8%2Fgc4YFegdaKw%2Fs400%2Fchutes.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=f8ed4f5ab1631de6db653aeb63e72f60 400w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F1.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FTLA_IxXDtoI%2FAAAAAAAABM8%2Fgc4YFegdaKw%2Fs400%2Fchutes.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=af5755671ef9285dadb9650990df01a1 400w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F1.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FTLA_IxXDtoI%2FAAAAAAAABM8%2Fgc4YFegdaKw%2Fs400%2Fchutes.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=14095350ac255d43df8c373133ae9daf 400w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F1.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FTLA_IxXDtoI%2FAAAAAAAABM8%2Fgc4YFegdaKw%2Fs400%2Fchutes.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=5dc09afefd6975f0acdfed3b113b66b3 400w)
Chutes and Ladders time for the kids, many of whom come from broken families, are abandoned, have no family, or come from abusive family situations
Deana reading Dr. Suess to kids
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F2.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FTLBFSqO9k5I%2FAAAAAAAABN8%2FvOyRZTf7sRk%2Fs400%2Freading%2B2.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=1ec70dcef902083942d9fe470f361383 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F2.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FTLBFSqO9k5I%2FAAAAAAAABN8%2FvOyRZTf7sRk%2Fs400%2Freading%2B2.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=1d85127b5bb93ed3cfdfb7d9bd1c94f1 400w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F2.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FTLBFSqO9k5I%2FAAAAAAAABN8%2FvOyRZTf7sRk%2Fs400%2Freading%2B2.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=7ccd95c2fb0974feb44a5656658a78ce 400w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F2.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FTLBFSqO9k5I%2FAAAAAAAABN8%2FvOyRZTf7sRk%2Fs400%2Freading%2B2.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=1b4135bbb89792684735228219f5d4b5 400w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F2.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FTLBFSqO9k5I%2FAAAAAAAABN8%2FvOyRZTf7sRk%2Fs400%2Freading%2B2.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=115a0bbaf349b7b3823e2ad2c44ab3f3 400w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F2.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FTLBFSqO9k5I%2FAAAAAAAABN8%2FvOyRZTf7sRk%2Fs400%2Freading%2B2.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=02cc19d3a1ad8c17596b8a49c181cfaf 400w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F2.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FTLBFSqO9k5I%2FAAAAAAAABN8%2FvOyRZTf7sRk%2Fs400%2Freading%2B2.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=53f2997ebb8198b17f89b5718e2f1e31 400w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/http%3A%2F%2F2.bp.blogspot.com%2F_JN7DyNvD1ow%2FTLBFSqO9k5I%2FAAAAAAAABN8%2FvOyRZTf7sRk%2Fs400%2Freading%2B2.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=5fbb70a0414de92af406f5c74933e631 400w)
In addition to learning English, the kids now attend school regularly, are learning better health care, and are forming family bonds with each other
The local clinic that serves more than 300,000 people, some of whom walk for hours just to reach the facility, which is understaffed and lacking basic equipment.
- Mark Gunlogson