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- Jul 10, 2017
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Ecuador Mountaineering School Summits Cayambe, Iliniza North, and Chimborazo
The latest Ecuador Mountaineering School started with a city tour in Quito, visiting churches and walking around the town as climbers got accustomed to the altitude of the Andes. The first acclimitization climb was Ruco Pichincha, aka “Raccoon Pikachu,” where the team kept their fingers crossed for the weather to hold out during the five-hour trip. It did — that day. The acclimatization hike to the entrance of the glacier at Cayambe, however, was not so lucky. Lead guide Alejandro describes the very wet day as “soaked to my underwear,” and the team climbed up on a bad blizzard. All was not struggle, though; after the climb the team went to Tupigachi to dry at a fireplace and enjoy warm food.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC_9925_FB.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=9992e7feb9d1ddd6ebab9e41c31076b0 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC_9925_FB.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=cbee0bb32fbd2e28b729fec7e074cfac 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC_9925_FB.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=345c1b536d704b13a6bdff7c3da7cb6d 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC_9925_FB.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=7f9a79b85a7f956caf781a7df6bcac14 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC_9925_FB.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=543dc3c61bc93aac6e8e3e806fc8ffa4 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC_9925_FB.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=85eaa504662eb39b022392422c385397 1200w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC_9925_FB.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=d4be84070cb3816c69bc06a6a07a5669 1400w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC_9925_FB.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=c7a328740d0cbe791c1ad14131f3bb68 1600w)
Climbing “Raccoon Pikachu.” Francisco Arroba photo
The first day of the glacier school was an intense one, as the team learned cramponing skills and ice axe basics at the Glaciar Hermoso. After returning to the hut, they practiced knots and roping up as a team. The next three days followed the same pace, with the team practicing self-arrest, snow anchors, pulley systems, and auto rescue.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC_9937_FB.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=037fa8449356916773364b6c640b08ac 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC_9937_FB.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=e2c89ee72824388c55343a8181a6ced9 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC_9937_FB.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=2a6224f2f8dfc5216cb850de9d46aae1 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC_9937_FB.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=82d9e403092ef4cb249e6d049fb42453 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC_9937_FB.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=d098ea031b8d42684a1a2032d5603f69 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC_9937_FB.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=bf0a44fd0efca15810f3620dc6ac39e4 1200w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC_9937_FB.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=a38080dec8c1ca8774df5c431d901590 1400w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC_9937_FB.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=ed31f655c8c2b1dd74e1b2664904d8d6 1600w)
Francisco Arroba photo
The poor weather broke in time for Cayambe, turning absolutely beautiful. Taking advantage of this fortune, all members of the team summited; one client and guide even doing it in a speedy eight hours round-trip.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC_9940_FB.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=6f320b172ee0291aa879f04cd0a687fd 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC_9940_FB.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=e9c41dbe9b9cccd7286c8acc3ac0a98a 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC_9940_FB.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=912f334b44b5c8afef989589da509eec 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC_9940_FB.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=94c24616d7e7ef16da048403112a8583 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC_9940_FB.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=4cf136a6694651031590a079a1bfda43 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC_9940_FB.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=942671e25c49605a988c3094dfb0c42e 1200w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC_9940_FB.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=ec690787bd00f659ab1864dcc7d38450 1400w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC_9940_FB.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=99cccdb55f2c1516fb2c4189f00343fc 1600w)
Francisco Arroba photo
Iliniza North provided a bit more challenging weather. As the team arrived to the hut, hail fell in on the mountain for a couple of hours. The amount of ice delayed the start but allowed time for a nice, relaxed breakfast. The climbing was complicated by verglas, and the team members who made the summit only stayed for a few brief moments due to high wind.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC_9949_FB.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=bb21517ac484b97953697d980895b47b 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC_9949_FB.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=38812f77efd5e677b7a65bbc2d17d7fe 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC_9949_FB.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=248d48165977ede080c951a78d05643e 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC_9949_FB.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=5b8bed11dcdfda6f5cb846d6f606c9e5 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC_9949_FB.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=23c9938c0d83326c44781e7876c361bb 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC_9949_FB.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=630f9de0bd10beeb20ec472bcb905e61 1200w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC_9949_FB.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=5cd374e8c94d7361a93784bd68e0ea50 1400w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC_9949_FB.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=c731f5da19b84aecc33248bf8a9a5d55 1600w)
Francisco Arroba photo
Another switch in the weather offered a very nice day for Chimborazo; almost no wind and good snow conditions allowed two of the three team members to reach their third summit.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC_9953_FB.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=b3d6a8dbf72df1aa23728d3ca923bb32 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC_9953_FB.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=34a4fc92b0108eeb6eb2b3e2b5d7294a 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC_9953_FB.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=5fee0bee8efaacf5a8723374f8b9bcfd 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC_9953_FB.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=cda6a4605b0e7cfd6915011f0ba68494 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC_9953_FB.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=79318da79ac3102406f4f761cd5b1b73 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC_9953_FB.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=d5f37804f25b506106f2c89fe3e47823 1200w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC_9953_FB.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=283b114354274f45800eea9503409ce7 1400w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC_9953_FB.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=0a887225663acad511756fe761b262ae 1600w)
Francisco Arroba photo