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Aconcagua Expedition Reality Check For Group #3
Aconcagua is just a walk-up. Or at least that is what I am told by a lot of prospective climbers I meet down here in Argentina.
I am back in Mendoza soaking up the sun and heat, warming my soul to the bones. But just a few days ago I was suiting up in my full summit day attire just to exit my tent in screaming winds and driving snow to deliver food and water to my teammates hunkered down at Nido de Condores — Camp 2, 4500 ft below the summit. I am focusing on refueling, and putting on some of the 8 pounds I lost up there, before my next expedition which starts on February 3rd.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDelivering_breakfast.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=6db2c2f3e60345a589c4d73193cc23fc 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDelivering_breakfast.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=8b993e1a11f405f8bdd0adb30bfa9a89 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDelivering_breakfast.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=88dd187d83d74ff6952e80a4f7a311c7 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDelivering_breakfast.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=651544082ee80f3bb9eb01ac4249492b 720w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDelivering_breakfast.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=ffe9299e79f0f26202e638caa5074981 720w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDelivering_breakfast.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=c1b31fc6b3f281909bc1f0c77e564261 720w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDelivering_breakfast.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=a76c15e3fc64c589312416a1292bce10 720w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDelivering_breakfast.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=6d3c80eb8acf54ea981738d0f4e9b8e0 720w)
Getting ready to deliver food and water to the tents. Tino Villanueva photo
In the best of conditions, Aconcagua’s 22,841 ft summit can be reached by following a trail. However, this trail is not your typical hiking trail, nicely maintained by a crew of Forest Service workers or volunteers digging, smoothing, clearing and perfecting for your comfort. No, this trail is comprised of loose rock, uncomfortable traversing, sometimes areas of steep snow and a generally impromptu, haphazard and unimproved path. Add to this that you are travelling to nearly 7000 meters in 2 weeks, and the fact that at that altitude, walking slower than you ever imagined possible provides the physical equivalent of sprinting up a flight of stairs, and you have one tough climb — please don’t call it a hike. This is the altitude where jets fly, people!
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F226600_192523384226456_2014557520_n.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=1282d2416a07bd905f413ace6bfd4886 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F226600_192523384226456_2014557520_n.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=04c1ea4e91804b9c3f79d78cd4023544 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F226600_192523384226456_2014557520_n.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=e901886d6ac4918d3c4d9095ab3c8246 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F226600_192523384226456_2014557520_n.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=26b0498a13c5447e93b93ab2b11ff28a 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F226600_192523384226456_2014557520_n.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=694f5ce002d9c477935bf795b2e733a0 960w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F226600_192523384226456_2014557520_n.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=bdace0d7bd8f6ae98727240a9feca813 960w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F226600_192523384226456_2014557520_n.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=d24745ce8fc1282e7c1e9bcdb7dd185e 960w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F226600_192523384226456_2014557520_n.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=ce0468df99449d3bcd6201255402d5d9 960w)
Preparing for the trip! Oswaldo Freire photo
In normal conditions, there is some snow to deal with on the climb. A long traverse, face into the wind, across the Grand Acarreo (which has the dual meaning of “hauling a load” and to “cause hardship”), can be snowy. If it is hard snow, it is a long, but direct, 2000 ft slide down to Nido de Condores. Ice axes, trekking poles and crampons become important. This equipment is not always needed, but when it is needed, you will want to have it. I have seen people (let’s call them the “walk-uppers”) shut down simply by not bringing along the proper equipment. The walk-uppers are sometimes alone but also sometimes with other guided groups. Rest assured, Mountain Madness will not let this happen to you on one of our trips!
And it is often as simple as that. Give the mountain some credit. Bring the proper equipment. Climbing tools, double boots (this means the liner comes out of the boot shell), expedition style parkas and mittens, a puffy down sleeping bag, have your kit dialed. My kit is almost identical to the gear I bring on Denali expeditions, though I often watch walk-uppers eyes widen in horror when I tell them their hiking boots are probably not the best choice for Aconcagua.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FThere_were_nice_days_too.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=1b5dea0671bf2b8d8236889ac43769b5 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FThere_were_nice_days_too.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=2fb9d65022a76fea4a0a38e7afb9e562 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FThere_were_nice_days_too.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=7a6a828bf366249f06f28df77ae7c3d4 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FThere_were_nice_days_too.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=d8712413062aec212b938bbb273edc1c 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FThere_were_nice_days_too.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=054a7ed1d6f873a204a7e32dde0b6fa7 960w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FThere_were_nice_days_too.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=c66c981f0aa08b20e8fd96fe571c57b5 960w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FThere_were_nice_days_too.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=26c454188c56eeccee77c02530cd477d 960w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FThere_were_nice_days_too.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=325fff3a43f5138d4e456db3f2dccaf2 960w)
On the way up in short-lived sunny days. Tino Villanueva photo
Then there are the conditions I had on my January 11th expedition. We had some really nice days, sometimes too hot, early in the trip. It was the type of weather we hope for in the mountains in the summer: generally nice days, cold at night with occasional days of clouds and precipitation. However, as we began the business portion of the climb, the weather turned for the worse. Occasional storms became predictable, daily events. As we moved up the mountain our team spent one day, which was planned as a carry day to ferry loads up higher on the mountain, sequestered in our tents at Camp 1 (Camp Canada) due to heavy snowfall.
The next day we had to move to stay on track. At first, the storm seemed to let up. It was a clear morning, though the wind was a constant presence on the hike to Camp 2. We were lucky to set up our tents in what we would later realize was just a lull in the storm. Almost as soon as the tents were up, clouds engulfed camp and the wind cranked to tent-flapping speed.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F424537_198818163596978_1901840160_n.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=0d8385380c37e78b4f08c35ef04a0601 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F424537_198818163596978_1901840160_n.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=14cf603213041895520ff702a338b14a 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F424537_198818163596978_1901840160_n.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=2f4f32f26dff9a501edb154d20b9e4b3 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F424537_198818163596978_1901840160_n.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=ee78a35954270aa6ed5d999d855afa38 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F424537_198818163596978_1901840160_n.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=204deea96f8ceea9f4fa1411d2f36ad3 960w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F424537_198818163596978_1901840160_n.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=93fc50ad0bfb894ccad7b846afcae7d9 960w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F424537_198818163596978_1901840160_n.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=853d28ac6c87e8c8f6e3b93ed857fc56 960w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F424537_198818163596978_1901840160_n.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=808c9e39d94aa3efad6bcca59801759c 960w)
Tino “enjoying” a good freeze-dried meal. Oswaldo Freire photo
The next 3 days were characterized by constant winds, 45 kph being the most friendly speeds we saw, and daily poundings. The day would usually start clear, but still windy and blowing snow, then start snowing in the afternoon. All the wind and snow resulted in two foot drifts inside vestibules, destroyed tent flys and generally not a lot of time spent outside the tents.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F309978_198818103596984_1537846610_n.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=17db266cf0c9182616eac2a66abb6116 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F309978_198818103596984_1537846610_n.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=4175a61d3202d3f859a47d8e84bed05d 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F309978_198818103596984_1537846610_n.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=bdec4237c334d1586be253af18c0cbae 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F309978_198818103596984_1537846610_n.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=abdc73972b5eb31647f9151e972cdcea 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F309978_198818103596984_1537846610_n.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=036fa708119848ebd31adc4533ca1f7a 960w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F309978_198818103596984_1537846610_n.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=0de0023770835725e0ca02ecc51cba34 960w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F309978_198818103596984_1537846610_n.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=ee7ba34870a28e06e62ec7bbd1ed8e9d 960w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F309978_198818103596984_1537846610_n.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=00896cd8bb16b6426e4d08cab77ec4a0 960w)
Snow accumulating from the storms. Oswaldo Freire photo
For 2 days we suffered through the tempest. On the 3rd day we watched in astounding surprise as climbers attempted the summit. At Nido, the wind was howling, in the 50 – 60 kph range, and it was bitter cold. I could only imagine what it was like up high. Then, as has been the case the past days, the afternoon brought more clouds and more snow. Summit teams became separated in the whiteout, people got lost and people got sick with the extreme altitude and overexertion.
The next morning the helicopters were flying early — not a good sign. The storm, along with climbers’ blind persistence for the summit, had left one climber dead, one climber lost, and many were being evacuated for frostbite and altitude illness. Eventually the lost climber was found, albeit with severe frostbite, and carried down 6000 ft to Plaza de Mulas.
This is not to say Aconcagua is scary or impossibly difficult. In fact, I watched a climber running down through Plaza de Mulas attempting a speed ascent. His roundtrip time (Park Entrance-Summit-Park Entrance) was 15 hours 42 minutes — what a fun day! What I’m saying is Aconcagua, as all mountains, deserves respect. With respect and a healthy dose of luck, climbers achieve amazing feats. And when the right combination of weather and conditions coincide with a team with the proper equipment and preparedness, and knowledgeable guides, climbers have the privilege of standing on the summit. Our team achieved the amazing feat of surviving 3 days in terrible weather at 18,500 ft. If not for the weather and conditions, every one of us would have stood on top.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F735172_198818193596975_1171189965_n.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=351cc954320a227b44a8ec455bef2142 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F735172_198818193596975_1171189965_n.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=a99fac9f10995c18544f75a05ad1bf98 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F735172_198818193596975_1171189965_n.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=b5fa97ffb73891bba728ff828fe5d6c5 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F735172_198818193596975_1171189965_n.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=1e6beeb938e7b253e7131652ba4e72bf 720w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F735172_198818193596975_1171189965_n.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=15545c79a86167a705737a6c9b2b7b6a 720w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F735172_198818193596975_1171189965_n.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=6ee6c55c8247c36b4b3af39df6cdcd59 720w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F735172_198818193596975_1171189965_n.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=92e72efcc72e07a654308a39767ef07f 720w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F735172_198818193596975_1171189965_n.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=2bfbb016b5aeb8f8a95b61f9f1a6d7f3 720w)
Keeping spirits up! Oswaldo Freire photo
I would like to congratulate Marc, Nick, Cameo, Ken, Larry and Dave for their amazing feat on Aconcagua this January. Wish me luck for my next trip!
~ MM Guide Tino Villanueva
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FPreventing_Sunburn.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=c7316e6634afe4442abe9bafb7442757 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FPreventing_Sunburn.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=a75704415fdc39c4b5e6a359471c709c 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FPreventing_Sunburn.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=476bad9e3213710ec3893a699c01371a 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FPreventing_Sunburn.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=fb3b937d4e99e381aa65178f4f91a0e5 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FPreventing_Sunburn.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=624fd0a25d80be59d6265d75e776fccc 960w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FPreventing_Sunburn.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=d436a951eb40f012021562b76e66e98c 960w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FPreventing_Sunburn.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=bd518526667a9acbec4cd55953fbe2c2 960w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FPreventing_Sunburn.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=d32896066cff7828913b8936769fc433 960w)
The team. Oswaldo Freire photo