Climb Bolivia’s Huayna Potosi and Illimani
Andes Expedition with ascents to over 21,000 feet / 6460 meters
This climbing expedition in Bolivia’s Cordillera Real — the Royal Range — offers some of the finest alpine mountaineering ascents for advanced beginner to intermediate level climbers looking at the Andes of South America. Ascents of Pequeno Alpamayo, Huayna Potosi, and Illimani offer participants a chance to experience three different areas in the range, along with some creature comforts in La Paz thrown into the mix between climbs.
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Trip Perks
Unraveling the mysteries of the ancient Tiwanka and Aymara cultures from a lakeside restaurant while eating fresh caught trout over a beer- all in anticipation of the climbs ahead. And the witchcraft market in La Paz gives one pause too while pondering shrunken heads, bottled up llama fetuses, and more voodoo tools of the trade. Oh, and then there are three amazing climbs to do- and the night lights of La Paz are pretty amazing from the Condor’s Nest high camp on Illimani!
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Description
We fly into La Paz, the highest capital city in the world at 12,000 feet / 3658 meters. As part of our acclimatization program, participants explore the ancient ruins of Tiwanaka culture, the lakeside town of Copacabana on the shores of Lake Titicaca, and the Island of the Sun before traveling to the mountains.
We then warm-up with climbs in the famous Condoriri area before moving on to the beautiful Huayna Potosi. On this fine peak, interesting snow and ice climbing up to 50 degrees leads to the narrow summit ridge where perhaps the most exhilarating piece of climbing in the range awaits climbers. From the summit, expedition members are rewarded with grand exposure and unobstructed views of the Cordillera Real, Lake Titicaca, and the Amazon Basin. For those with extra time, the massive Illimani offers an excellent extension for acclimatized mountaineers to reach heights over 21,000 feet / 6400 meters on one of the Andes most sought after summits.
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Video
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Price
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Huayna Potosi
$4,475 – 13 Days / Includes travel time
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Single Supplement (I want my own room) – $500
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Huayna Potosi w/Illimani Extension
$5,775 – 18 Days / Includes travel time
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Single Supplement (I want my own room) with Illimani Extension – $650
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Price Includes
- Guide(s) and staff
- Climbing permit fees
- Three scheduled hotel nights in La Paz (double occupancy)
- Two additional hotel nights in La Paz (double occupancy) for the Illimani extension
- Two scheduled hotel nights in Copacabana (double occupancy)
- Scheduled restaurant meals in La Paz and Copacabana
- All food while on the climb
- All group climbing gear, tents and cooking gear
- All expedition staff including porters and pack animals
- Airport transfers
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Price Does Not Include
- International airfare
- Bolivia entry visa and airport fees
- Meals in La Paz between climbs of Huayna Potosi and Illimani as noted in final trip letter
- Day 12 hotel in La Paz used
- Alcoholic and bottled beverages
- Personal climbing gear and clothing
- Personal expenses (phone calls, laundry, room service, extra hotel nights, extra meals, etc.)
- Travel insurance with trip cancellation, medical and evacuation policy
- All expenses associated with non-scheduled departure
- Guide/Staff gratuities
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Payment Schedule
- $700 deposit at time of registration, which includes a $300 non-refundable registration fee
- Balance due 120 days prior to departure
- The balance may be paid by check, wire transfer, ACH or credit card with a 3% convenience fee
Dates
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Huayna Potosi 2025
- Jun 7, 2025 — Jun 19, 2025
- Jul 5, 2025 — Jul 17, 2025
- Nov 16, 2024
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Huayna Potosi w/ Illimani extension 2025
- Jun 7, 2025 — Jun 24, 2025
- Jul 5, 2025 — Jul 22, 2025
- Nov 16, 2024
Custom Dates Available — Contact Us
Policies
Cancellation / Refund Policy
- MMI strongly recommends trip cancellation/interruption and evacuation insurance for all trips. Our insurance partner, Ripcord, offers comprehensive travel insurance including trip cancellation, as well as rescue/evacuation policies and can assist in answering any questions. In addition, Participant is expected to have sufficient medical insurance as prescribed by their country of origin. Participant understands that MMI does not include any type of insurance with the cost of the trip.
- If you decide to cancel your trip or change your itinerary, MMI must be notified in writing. Your trip will be cancelled from the date written notice is received. If proper written cancellation notice is not received, amounts paid and reservations made will be forfeited.
- Non-refundable fees may apply for certain trips in order to secure permits and other services. MMI must strictly adhere to cancellation policies outside MMI’s control.
- Due to the personalized service we offer on our trips, MMI reserves the right to waive any fees. We will attempt to accommodate changes and cancellations, waiving certain fees when feasible.
- Circumstances outside the control of MMI and its partners, may require amended cancellation/refund policies. Such circumstances may include, but are not limited to COVID-19, natural disasters, wildfires, terrorism and so forth.
International Trips/Courses:
- Full refund, less the non-refundable registration fee, will be provided 121 days or more before the departure date
- No refunds will be provided 120 days or less before the departure date
Trip Insurance
We strongly recommend the purchase of travel cancellation insurance to protect you from the unexpected. You aren’t likely to think of it now, but people do get ill, break a bone, have a family emergency or get assigned to a last-minute business trip. If you are in remote areas, please note that emergency rescue & evacuation can be very expensive.
We also strongly urge you to consider rescue and evacuation insurance if your own policy does not provide the coverage needed. Services available may include, but are not limited to, helicopter evacuation, medical care, etc.
If you choose not to purchase insurance, you assume full responsibility for any expenses incurred in the event of a medical emergency and/or evacuation, as well as for trip cancellation, interruption, lost luggage, etc. We are not the experts and therefore ask that you please consult our travel insurance partner directly with any specific questions.
To protect against losses due to illness, accident, or other unforeseen circumstances, Mountain Madness strongly recommends the purchase of travel insurance as soon as possible after making a deposit. Mountain Madness has partnered with Redpoint Resolutions as our preferred travel insurance provider. Redpoint’s Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ is designed for adventurers.
For a quote, or to purchase travel insurance, please click this link Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ or call +1 – 415-481‑0600. Pricing varies based on age, trip cost, trip length, and level of coverage.
Critical benefits of Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance include:
- A completely integrated program with a single point of contact for emergency services, travel assistance, and insurance claims
- Evacuation and rescue services from your point of injury or illness to your hospital of choice
- Comprehensive travel insurance for trip cancellation/interruption, primary medical expense coverage, baggage loss or delay, emergency accident and emergency sickness medical expense, emergency dental, accidental death and dismemberment, and more
- Optional security evacuation coverage in case of an unplanned natural disaster or other security events
- Waiver for pre-existing conditions (must be purchased within 14 days of tour deposit)
- Optional “Cancel for Any Reason” coverage (must be purchased within 14 days of tour deposit)
Itinerary
Flight Information
The total number of days for your trip includes all travel to and from your destination, with some exceptions. Dates listed on the website start with a departure date from the US and include the day you arrive home. For this trip you will need to arrive in La Paz, Bolivia on Day 1 or early morning on Day 2. You will be met at the airport by a Mountain Madness representative and transferred to your hotel.
Huayna Potosi Day by Day
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Day 1
Travel
Depart for La Paz, Bolivia.
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Day 2
La Paz
Elevation: 12,000 ft / 3658 m
Arrive in La Paz , the highest capital city in the world. A Mountain Madness guide will meet you at the airport and escort you to your hotel. We have the remainder of the day to explore the Mercado de Hechiceria (witches market) or explore the city.
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Day 3
Copacabana
Elevation: 12,602 ft / 3841 m
For further acclimatization we will visit mysterious Tiwanaka Ruins, an ancient city which offers an excellent example of this pre-Inca culture. This is one of Bolivia’s most significant archeological sites. We’re then off to visit Lake Titicaca where we overnight in the lakeside town of Copacabana.
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Day 4
Copacabana
Elevation: 12,602 ft / 3841 m
We take a boat ride on Lake Titicaca to the Island of the Sun. After exploring the villages on the island and Inca ruins we return to Copacabana for the night. While exploring the islands there is a marvelous feeling of timelessness about the Inca sites and the local people’s traditional way of life that indeed resembles that of their Inca ancestors.
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Day 5
Tuni Campsite
Elevation: 13,779 ft / 4200 m
We leave Copacabana early and drive to the Tuni campsite and trailhead for the hike to Condoriri base camp. In the afternoon we will take a short acclimatization hike.
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Day 6
Condoriri Base Camp
Elevation: 15.300 ft / 4633 m
3 – 5 hour hike to the Condoriri base camp. At the trailhead we load burros with our gear for transport to base camp. We establish base camp by Lago Condoriri, a splendid alpine lake sitting in a huge amphitheater of impressive peaks.
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Day 7
Condoriri Base Camp
Elevation: 15,300 ft / 4633 m
Today we become further acclimatized to the altitude. We brush up on our glacier skills in the morning and spend the rest of the day relaxing and preparing for our first climb.
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Day 8
Condoriri Base Camp
Elevation: 15,300 ft / 4633 m
After an early morning departure, we rope up and ascend the glaciated peaks of Tarija (17,200 ft / 5243 m) and Pequeno Alpamayo (17,643 ft / 5378 m).
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Day 9
La Paz
Elevation: 12,000 ft / 3658 m
Pack up in the morning and hike out to Tuni. We return to La Paz for the evening.
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Day 10
Huayna Potosi High Camp
Elevation: 12,000 ft / 3658 m
With an early start we move up to high camp for the night.
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Day 11
Huayna Potosi Base Camp
Elevation: 15.300 ft / 4633 m
We depart early in order to reach the summit of Huayna Potosi and encounter a variety of terrain on our way to the summit. This will be a challenging day of 10 – 14 hours round trip to the summit and return to the pass. From the summit we will be rewarded with beautiful views of Lake Titicaca, the Amazon Basin, and the Cordillera Real. We will spend the night at the hut (Zongo Pass) after the climb or be able to make an attempt the next day if needed.
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Day 12
Extra Summit Day / La Paz
Elevation: 12,000 ft / 3658 m
Extra day to attempt HP if conditions unfavorable on day 11. Return to La Paz.
Note on Itinerary: Although we do our very best to follow the schedule listed, this itinerary is subject to change due to inclement weather, unsafe route conditions, or other reasons beyond our control and in the guide’s best judgement.
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Day 13
Rest in La Paz or return home
Fly home or for those who are participating in the Illimani extension you will spend day preparing for the climb and resting.
w/ Illimani Extension Day by Day
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Day 14
Illimani Base Camp
Elevation: 15,750 ft / 4800 m
Participants of the Illimani extension depart for our final objective, 21,193-foot / 6460-meter Nevado Illimani. A scenic drive through the countryside of Bolivia ends at the small village of Hacienda Una. Here we load our burros for the trek to base camp. The four-hour walk to base camp leads through small farming villages and alpine meadows.
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Day 15
Illimani High Camp
Elevation: 17,875 ft / 5448 m
Today we accomplish a strenuous climb up a rocky ridge to high camp, known as the Condor’s Nest. We establish camp and get some well-deserved rest to prepare for the summit.
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Day 16
Illimani Summit / Illimani Base Camp
Elevation: 15,750 ft / 4800 m
Summit day entails an early departure in order to climb Pico Sur, the highest of Illimani’s three summits. Interesting glacier travel along varied terrain leads us to the summit of this impressive peak. This is a long day of 12 – 15 hours roundtrip. After enjoying the views from the summit we descend to high camp, or, if time permits, to base camp.
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Day 17
Hacienda Una / La Paz
We sleep in and enjoy a leisurely breakfast before we break camp and hike out to Hacienda Una. In the afternoon we drive to La Paz for our celebration dinner.
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Day 18
La Paz
Depart La Paz and fly home.
Note on Itinerary: Although we do our very best to follow the schedule listed, this itinerary is subject to change due to inclement weather, unsafe route conditions, or other reasons beyond our control and in the guide’s best judgement.
Equipment for Climb Bolivia's Huayna Potosi and Illimani
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Carrying Gear
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Summit pack (40-50L)
Lightweight as possible with a volume between 2,500-3,500 cubic inches (40-50 liters) serves most people’s needs well
Examples:
Osprey Mutant 38, Black Diamond Speed 40
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Large duffel bag (150L)
One at least 7,000 cubic inch capacity (150 liters). Must be durable and waterproof
Examples:
Patagonia Black Hole
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Small duffel bag
Large enough to hold everything you’re not taking on the mountain. Will be stored at hotel, to be used after trip
Examples:
Patagonia Black Hole
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Small padlock for duffel bags
Extra security
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Baggage tags
Makes identifying your bags easy at airports or hotels
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Sleeping Gear
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Expedition quality sleeping bag (-10-0F)
One down or synthetic bag rated from -10 - 0°F /-18 to -23°C
Examples:
Feathered Friends Snowbunting, Marmot Never Summer
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Sleeping pad (inflatable or closed cell foam)
A foam pad will be provided but a supplemental pad is recommended. This can be an inflatable or closed cell foam pad. Make sure to purchase a pad rated for cold conditions.
Examples:
Therm-a-Rest NeoAir & Therm-a-Rest Z Lite Sol
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Climbing Gear
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Alpine climbing harness
Must have adjustable leg loops and fit over all clothing
Examples:
Black Diamond Couloir, Petzl Altitude, Petzl Hirundos
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Locking carabiners (2)
Two large, pear-shaped carabiners are best
Examples:
Black Diamond Rock Lock, Petzl William, Petzl Attache
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Belay device (plaquette)
Tube style
Examples:
Black Diamond ATC Guide, Petzl Reverso
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Mountaineering ice axe
under 5’7” use 60cm, 5’7”-6’2” use 60 or 65cm, over 6’2” use 70cm
Examples:
Black Diamond Raven, Petzl Glacier
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Crampons w/ anti-balling plate
Steel 12-pont. Must be fit to climbing boots prior to trip, new-matic/hybrid type
Examples:
Black Diamond Sabretooth, Petzl Vasak
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Climbing helmet
Lightweight
Examples:
Black Diamond Half Dome, Petzl Elios
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Double length nylon runner (48" or 120cm)
be sure to get nylon not dyneema (18mm width)
Examples:
Black Diamond Nylon Slings
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Single length runner (24" or 60cm)
be sure to get nylon not dyneema (18mm width)
Examples:
Black Diamond Nylon Slings
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30’ of perlon accessory cord (6mm)
30 feet of 6mm cord
Examples:
Sterling
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Adjustable trekking poles
Three piece poles recommended
Examples:
Black Diamond Trail Back Pole
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Head and Face
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Fleece or wool hat
It must cover the ears
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Shade hat or baseball cap
A visor hat with a good brim is essential for protection from the sun
Examples:
Mountain Madness trucker hat
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Bandanas or neck gaiter
Various uses, i.e. cleaning glasses, sun protection when tied around the neck, etc. We have our own Mountain Madness neck gaiter available for purchase!
Examples:
Mountain Madness neck gaiter
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Balaclava or Buff
A thin balaclava will add significant warmth on that cold summit day
Examples:
Outdoor Research, Marmot
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Glacier glasses
100% UV protection with side shields and a hard-sided storage case
Examples:
Julbo
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Ski goggles
To fit over glacier glasses in high wind. Rose or amber lenses
Examples:
Smith, Oakley
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Hands
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Liner gloves
Two pairs thin fleece or synthetic
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Warm gloves
One pair fleece or wool with water resistant shell
Examples:
Outdoor Research Arete
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Expedition mitts
One pair Gore-Tex or equivalent, with textured palms and taped seams. Synthetic or down filled. Warm, heavy duty for cold temperatures
Examples:
Outdoor Research Altimitt
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Feet
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Thin socks (2 pair)
Two pairs of synthetic or wool socks to wear under heavy wool socks to help prevent blisters and keep feet dry
Examples:
Smartwool or Cool Max
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Thin socks (3 pair)
Two pairs of synthetic or wool socks to wear under heavy wool socks to help prevent blisters and keep feet dry
Examples:
Smartwool or Cool Max
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Light hiking boots or trail shoes
For acclimatization hikes
Examples:
Salomon X-Ultra 3 Mid, Merrell Moab, La Sportiva Boulder Ex
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Gaiters SA
Make sure they will fit over boots (if not already integrated in boots)
Examples:
OR Crocodiles or equivalent
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Mountaineering Boots SA
Depending on your future mountaineering endeavors, your boot choice could differ. Boots such as the La Sportiva Spantik,G2 or G6, and Scarpa Phantom 6000 are a good investment for those who are pursuing other high-altitude climbs (such as Aconcagua or Denali). The Koflach Degre would be the choice for those looking for a warm boot in moderate conditions. If you are looking at hybrid leather/plastic boots, make sure it is rated for 6,000-meter peak climbs or winter mountaineering.
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Upper Body
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Synthetic t-shirts
Two synthetic or merino wool t-shirts. No cotton!
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Long-sleeved Base Layer
Two lightweight to mediumweight, pull-over is best
Examples:
Patagonia Capilene
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Sports bras
Two, synthetic, no cotton!
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Softshell Jacket w/ hood
This is what you will be wearing while hiking at higher altitudes or while kicking around camps at lower altitude. This jacket should be full-zip
Examples:
Outdoor Research Ferrosi
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Hardshell jacket w/ hood
A good jacket made of Gore-Tex (recommended) or waterproof nylon, roomy enough to fit over multiple layers
Examples:
Outdoor Research Foray, Patagonia Triolet
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Down or synthetic jacket w/hood
This is your most important piece of warm gear and will mean the difference between an enjoyable climb or a miserable one. A warm, full zip jacket with hood is ideal.
Examples:
Helly Hansen Vanir, Feathered Friends Volant, Marmot Guide’s Down Hoody, Outdoor Research Virtuoso Hoody
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Sun hoody
This piece with a high SPF rating and lightweight fabric offers protection from high altitude sun
Examples:
Outdoor Research
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Lower Body
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Undergarments
Adequate supply for the entire trip
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Bathing suit (optional)
lightweight and packable
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Hiking shorts
One pair of quick-drying shorts. Good for hiking at lower elevations on the mountain
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Long base layer
Two pairs light or mediumweight
Examples:
Patagonia Capilene
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Softshell pants
Softshell pants are water resistant, yet highly breathable and durable. Great for colder conditions over a pair of long underwear or tights higher on the mountain or summit day
Examples:
Outdoor Research Voodoo, Mountain Hardwear Touren, Patagonia Guide
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Hardshell pants
waterproof and breathable with side zips (minimum of ¾ zips recommended) Gore-Tex or equivalent
Examples:
Outdoor Research Furio, Arcteryx Beta AR
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Miscellaneous
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Stuff sacks/ditty bags/plastic bags
To organize gear in your duffle and pack. All clothing should be kept dry using waterproof stuff sacks or large heavyweight plastic bags (trash compactor bags work great)
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Toiletries
Toothbrush and paste, comb, tampons, biodegradable soap (small amount), etc. Bring enough for the entire trip
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Toilet paper
1 – 2 rolls stored in a plastic bag
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Sunscreen
Bring plenty of sun block with SPF of 40 or more. It's easy to underestimate the amount necessary for your trip!
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Lip balm
Must have SPF rating of 20 or more. Bring two just in case!
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Ear plugs
To block out snoring and other noise to ensure a good night's sleep
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Water bottles with insulators
Two one-liter wide-mouthed plastic bottles
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Small stainless-steel thermos (optional)
For hot beverages on summit day
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Water purification
Steri Pen, Potable Aqua, Polar Pure crystal iodine. Purifies drinking water while on the trip.
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Water flavoring
Powdered additives like Gatorade or NUUN are a nice change of pace to water and help replenish much needed electrolytes.
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Headlamp
Bring extra batteries!
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Pocket knife or multitool
Simple Swiss Army type with scissors. Make sure you transport in checked bag, not carry-on!
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Personal first aid and drug kit
small personal first aid kit with ample bandaids and moleskin
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Nausea medications
Pepto Bismol tablets; Maalox, Gelusil M or Mylanta antacid tablets. Donnatal for stomach cramps. Probiotic capsules taken daily may help keep your gastro-intestinal system working smoothly
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Towel
For wash up in camp
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Handi-Wipes
A small pack or two anti-bacterial are great for general hygiene
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Spare contacts and glasses
Contacts can be a problem in dusty conditions, so make sure you have your back-up glasses with you. Glasses wearers should have a spare set
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Snacks (general)
Bring your favorite snacks and power/energy bars or if there is something else you particularly like to eat while hiking and climbing
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Spare bottle for a pee bottle, and a pee funnel (Lady J or Freshette) for women
It can be a cold walk to the toilet at night
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Insect repellent
A must!
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Personal electronics
Phone with camera, and/or separate camera. Bring extra batteries and memory!
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Electronics charging
If you want to charge your electronics along the way, a small, lightweight solar panel to charge batteries or portable charging device may be a good addition
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Travel power adapter
Most come in kits with all the plugs you need. Double-check to make sure you’re taking the correct adapter/plugs
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Travel clothing
Comfortable clothing for travel before and after the expedition
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Book Trip
Huayna Potosi
$4,475
13 Days / Includes travel time
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Book Trip
Huayna Potosi w/Illimani Extension
$5,775
18 Days / Includes travel time
Elevation
Bolivia High Peak Elevations:
Pequeno Alpamayo 17,643 ft / 5378 m
Huayna Potosi 19,974 ft / 6088 m
Illimani 21,122 ft / 6438 m
Route
Depends on conditions
Client to Guide Ratio
3:1
Difficulty
Advanced Beginner
Climbers should have basic snow and ice-climbing skills and should be comfortable with glacier travel, which includes moving in a rope team, self arrest, and basic crevasse rescue. Basic knowledge and experience would be required for objectives with some rock climbing.
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