Matterhorn
Most Iconic And Dramatic Mountain In The Swiss Alps
The Matterhorn is the most recognizable and dramatic mountain in the Swiss Alps. It’s classic shape pulls in even non-climbers, the allure of the summit too much to ignore. But, for would-be climbers, it’s dramatic slopes actually offer reasonable terrain for intermediate level mountaineers. With proper experience and good fitness, the summit is attainable for motivated climbers. The climb offers incredible scenery, the luxury of well-maintained huts, and fabulous food – making this adventure into what we like to call a “climbing holiday,” on one of the world’s most recognizable peaks.
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Trip Perks
Mount Everest, Peru’s Alpamayo, Ama Dablam, and others stand as the world’s most beautiful and well-known peaks. The improbable looking Matterhorn stands its own ground in this list of iconic peaks. The feeling of gazing up to the peak after climbing it is a reward few realize — kicking your feet up, having a stein of beer, some fresh bread, salami, and some Swiss cheese, and enjoying the quaint town of Zermatt as you revel in your success is among the best experiences imaginable in the Alps.
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Description
Climbers will become acclimatized while hiking and climbing around the charming Swiss village of Zermatt, which will also give your guides a chance to assess your skills and prepare you for the ascent of the Matterhorn. We then climb the classic Hornli Ridge on moderate and exposed alpine climbing terrain. From the Hornli Hut we gain 4,000 feet / 1219 meters of elevation before reaching the airy 14,697 foot / 4480 meter summit!
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Price
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Matterhorn
from $3,675 – 5 Days / In country
- 1:1 - $4,475 per person
- 2:1 - $3,675 per person
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Price Includes
- IFMGA/UIAGM certified guide
- Group gear
- Non-refundable hut reservation fee- Mountain Madness makes the reservation for you
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Price does not Include
- International airfare
- Hotel and hut accommodations/balance due for hut
- Gondola fees
- Transportation between climbing objectives
- Meals
- Alcoholic and bottled beverages
- Personal climbing gear and clothing
- Personal expenses (phone calls, laundry, room service, extra meals, etc.)
- Travel insurance with trip cancellation, medical and evacuation policy
- All expenses associated with non-scheduled departure
- Guide gratuities
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Payment Schedule
- $700 deposit at time of registration, which includes a $300 non-refundable registration fee
- Balance due 120 days prior to departure
- The balance may be paid by check, wire transfer, ACH or credit card with a 3% convenience fee
Dates
Climb is Arranged on a Custom Basis — Contact Us
Policies
Cancellation / Refund Policy
- MMI strongly recommends trip cancellation/interruption and evacuation insurance for all trips. Our insurance partner, Ripcord, offers comprehensive travel insurance including trip cancellation, as well as rescue/evacuation policies and can assist in answering any questions. In addition, Participant is expected to have sufficient medical insurance as prescribed by their country of origin. Participant understands that MMI does not include any type of insurance with the cost of the trip.
- If you decide to cancel your trip or change your itinerary, MMI must be notified in writing. Your trip will be cancelled from the date written notice is received. If proper written cancellation notice is not received, amounts paid and reservations made will be forfeited.
- Non-refundable fees may apply for certain trips in order to secure permits and other services. MMI must strictly adhere to cancellation policies outside MMI’s control.
- Due to the personalized service we offer on our trips, MMI reserves the right to waive any fees. We will attempt to accommodate changes and cancellations, waiving certain fees when feasible.
- Circumstances outside the control of MMI and its partners, may require amended cancellation/refund policies. Such circumstances may include, but are not limited to COVID-19, natural disasters, wildfires, terrorism and so forth.
International Trips/Courses:
- Full refund, less the non-refundable registration fee, will be provided 121 days or more before the departure date
- No refunds will be provided 120 days or less before the departure date
Trip Insurance
We strongly recommend the purchase of travel cancellation insurance to protect you from the unexpected. You aren’t likely to think of it now, but people do get ill, break a bone, have a family emergency or get assigned to a last-minute business trip. If you are in remote areas, please note that emergency rescue & evacuation can be very expensive.
We also strongly urge you to consider rescue and evacuation insurance if your own policy does not provide the coverage needed. Services available may include, but are not limited to, helicopter evacuation, medical care, etc.
If you choose not to purchase insurance, you assume full responsibility for any expenses incurred in the event of a medical emergency and/or evacuation, as well as for trip cancellation, interruption, lost luggage, etc. We are not the experts and therefore ask that you please consult our travel insurance partner directly with any specific questions.
To protect against losses due to illness, accident, or other unforeseen circumstances, Mountain Madness strongly recommends the purchase of travel insurance as soon as possible after making a deposit. Mountain Madness has partnered with Redpoint Resolutions as our preferred travel insurance provider. Redpoint’s Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ is designed for adventurers.
For a quote, or to purchase travel insurance, please click this link Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ or call +1 – 415-481‑0600. Pricing varies based on age, trip cost, trip length, and level of coverage.
Critical benefits of Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance include:
- A completely integrated program with a single point of contact for emergency services, travel assistance, and insurance claims
- Evacuation and rescue services from your point of injury or illness to your hospital of choice
- Comprehensive travel insurance for trip cancellation/interruption, primary medical expense coverage, baggage loss or delay, emergency accident and emergency sickness medical expense, emergency dental, accidental death and dismemberment, and more
- Optional security evacuation coverage in case of an unplanned natural disaster or other security events
- Waiver for pre-existing conditions (must be purchased within 14 days of tour deposit)
- Optional “Cancel for Any Reason” coverage (must be purchased within 14 days of tour deposit)
Itinerary
Flight Information
Unlike most Mountain Madness international trip itineraries, which include travel time to and from your destination, our Alps schedules begin on the first day of service in country.
You will need to stay at a hotel or hostel of your choice during the trip and need to make these arrangements through your travel agent or on your own. Mountain Madness will reserve huts for your climb, but you will be responsible to pay for them upon arrival to the hut.
Matterhorn Day by Day
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Day 1
Zermatt
Climb the Rifflehorn. This easily accessible peak is more of a rock outcrop sitting next to the railway, but its western flank offers easy access to multi-pitch rock climbing where your guide will be able to easily determine your abilities on rock. Night in hotel.
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Day 2
Summit Alpine Peak
We take the gondola and either climb Pollux (13,421 ft / 4092 m ), Zinalrothorn, or one of the glacier peaks south of the Schönbiel Hut. These classic, exposed alpine routes offer rewarding beautiful views of the surrounding Swiss Alps and lead to very airy summits. Tonight will be spent at the Val d’Ayas Hut or a hotel in Zermatt depending on the itinerary established by your guides.
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Day 3
Summit Breithorn
In preparation for the Hornli Ridge of the Matterhorn, we climb the classic half traverse of the Breithorn (13,650 ft / 4165 m). This classic and exposed high alpine route traverses a knife edge ridge of similar difficulty, but takes less time than the Hornli Ridge route. We descend to the Breithorn Pass and back to Zermatt.
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Day 4
Hornli Hut
We travel to Zermatt and take the gondola to Schwarzsee. A two-three hour hike to 10,696 feet / 3260 meters, rewards us with breathtaking views of the Alps before we spend the night at the Hornli Hut.
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Day 5
Matterhorn Summit
We ascend the original Whymper route up the Hornli Ridge to reach the summit of one of the most photographed mountains in the Alps, the Matterhorn. Dramatic photo opportunities abound as we ascend the exposed ridge that involves a 3rd and 4th class rock scramble and some belayed 5th class steps. After negotiating a section of snow and ice, we reach the summit at 14,687 feet / 4477 meters. We will descend back to Zermatt via telepherique after our descent.
Note on Itinerary: Although we do our very best to follow the schedule listed, this itinerary is subject to change due to inclement weather, unsafe route conditions, or other reasons beyond our control and in the guide’s best judgement.
Equipment for Matterhorn
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Carrying Gear
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Summit pack (40-50L)
Lightweight as possible with a volume between 2,500-3,500 cubic inches (40-50 liters) serves most people’s needs well
Examples:
Osprey Mutant 38, Black Diamond Speed 40
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Small duffel bag
Large enough to hold everything you’re not taking on the mountain. Will be stored at hotel, to be used after trip
Examples:
Patagonia Black Hole
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Small padlock for duffel bags
Extra security
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Baggage tags
Makes identifying your bags easy at airports or hotels
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Sleeping Gear
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Sleeping bag liner
Blankets and pads provide by the huts
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Climbing Gear
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Alpine climbing harness
Must have adjustable leg loops and fit over all clothing
Examples:
Black Diamond Couloir, Petzl Altitude, Petzl Hirundos
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Locking carabiners (2)
Two large, pear-shaped carabiners are best
Examples:
Black Diamond Rock Lock, Petzl William, Petzl Attache
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Non-locking carabiners (2)
2 non-locking carabiners. wired straight-gates are recommended
Examples:
Black Diamond HotWire
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Belay device (plaquette)
Tube style
Examples:
Black Diamond ATC Guide, Petzl Reverso
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Mountaineering ice axe
under 5’7” use 60cm, 5’7”-6’2” use 60 or 65cm, over 6’2” use 70cm
Examples:
Black Diamond Raven, Petzl Glacier
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Crampons w/ anti-balling plate
Steel 12-pont. Must be fit to climbing boots prior to trip, new-matic/hybrid type
Examples:
Black Diamond Sabretooth, Petzl Vasak
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Climbing helmet
Lightweight
Examples:
Black Diamond Half Dome, Petzl Elios
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8’ of perlon accessory cord
You should bring 8 feet of 6mm cord for prusik loops
Examples:
Sterling
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18' of perlon accessory cord
You should bring 18 feet of 6mm cord for cordalette
Examples:
Sterling
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Adjustable trekking poles
Three piece poles recommended
Examples:
Black Diamond Trail Back Pole
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Head and Face
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Fleece or wool hat
It must cover the ears
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Shade hat or baseball cap
A visor hat with a good brim is essential for protection from the sun
Examples:
Mountain Madness trucker hat
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Bandanas or neck gaiter
Various uses, i.e. cleaning glasses, sun protection when tied around the neck, etc. We have our own Mountain Madness neck gaiter available for purchase!
Examples:
Mountain Madness neck gaiter
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Balaclava or Buff
A thin balaclava will add significant warmth on that cold summit day
Examples:
Outdoor Research, Marmot
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Glacier glasses
100% UV protection with side shields and a hard-sided storage case
Examples:
Julbo
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Hands
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Liner gloves
Two pairs thin fleece or synthetic
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Softshell gloves
One pair medium-weight for daily wear when it’s not too cold
Examples:
Black Diamond Arc, Arcteryx Zenta LT Glove
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Climbing gloves
A shell system of a fleece liner and waterproof shell that handles cold
Examples:
Outdoor Research Arete
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Feet
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Thin socks (2 pair)
Two pairs of synthetic or wool socks to wear under heavy wool socks to help prevent blisters and keep feet dry
Examples:
Smartwool or Cool Max
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Thick socks (3 pair)
Three pairs of synthetic or wool socks, medium to heavyweight. Check boot fit with thin and thick socks on
Examples:
Smartwool or Thorlo
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Gaiters
One pair of gaiters made of breathable material; keeps dirt and snow out of boots. Make sure they fit over your boots
Examples:
Outdoor Research Verglas or Crocodiles
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Technical mountaineering boots
Heavyweight and crampon compatible. Plastic boots are an option
Examples:
Scarpa Mt Blanc, Scarpa Phantom Tech, La Sportiva Nepal Evo GTX, Salewa Vulture Vertical GTX
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Rock shoes (optional Cham)
Good to keep your options open as the Chamonix valley is surrounded by world class rock routes
Examples:
La Sportiva Mythos
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Upper Body
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Synthetic t-shirts
Two synthetic or merino wool t-shirts. No cotton!
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Long-sleeved Base Layer
Two lightweight to mediumweight, pull-over is best
Examples:
Patagonia Capilene
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Sports bras
Two, synthetic, no cotton!
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Softshell Jacket w/ hood
This is what you will be wearing while hiking at higher altitudes or while kicking around camps at lower altitude. This jacket should be full-zip
Examples:
Outdoor Research Ferrosi
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Hardshell jacket w/ hood
A good jacket made of Gore-Tex (recommended) or waterproof nylon, roomy enough to fit over multiple layers
Examples:
Outdoor Research Foray, Patagonia Triolet
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Down or synthetic jacket w/hood
This is your most important piece of warm gear and will mean the difference between an enjoyable climb or a miserable one. A warm, full zip jacket with hood is ideal.
Examples:
Helly Hansen Vanir, Feathered Friends Volant, Marmot Guide’s Down Hoody, Outdoor Research Virtuoso Hoody
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Sun hoody
This piece with a high SPF rating and lightweight fabric offers protection from high altitude sun
Examples:
Outdoor Research
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Lower Body
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Undergarments
Adequate supply for the entire trip
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Hiking shorts
One pair of quick-drying shorts. Good for hiking at lower elevations on the mountain
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Long base layer
Two pairs light or mediumweight
Examples:
Patagonia Capilene
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Softshell pants
Softshell pants are water resistant, yet highly breathable and durable. Great for colder conditions over a pair of long underwear or tights higher on the mountain or summit day
Examples:
Outdoor Research Voodoo, Mountain Hardwear Touren, Patagonia Guide
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Hardshell pants
waterproof and breathable with side zips (minimum of ¾ zips recommended) Gore-Tex or equivalent
Examples:
Outdoor Research Furio, Arcteryx Beta AR
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Miscellaneous
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Stuff sacks/ditty bags/plastic bags
To organize gear in your duffle and pack. All clothing should be kept dry using waterproof stuff sacks or large heavyweight plastic bags (trash compactor bags work great)
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Toiletries
Toothbrush and paste, comb, tampons, biodegradable soap (small amount), etc. Bring enough for the entire trip
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Toilet paper
1 – 2 rolls stored in a plastic bag
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Sunscreen
Bring plenty of sun block with SPF of 40 or more. It's easy to underestimate the amount necessary for your trip!
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Lip balm
Must have SPF rating of 20 or more. Bring two just in case!
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Ear plugs
To block out snoring and other noise to ensure a good night's sleep
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Water bottles with insulators
Two one-liter wide-mouthed plastic bottles
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Small stainless-steel thermos (optional)
For hot beverages on summit day
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Water purification
Steri Pen, Potable Aqua, Polar Pure crystal iodine. Purifies drinking water while on the trip.
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Water flavoring
Powdered additives like Gatorade or NUUN are a nice change of pace to water and help replenish much needed electrolytes.
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Headlamp
Bring extra batteries!
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Pocket knife or multitool
Simple Swiss Army type with scissors. Make sure you transport in checked bag, not carry-on!
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Personal first aid and drug kit
small personal first aid kit with ample bandaids and moleskin
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Nausea medications
Pepto Bismol tablets; Maalox, Gelusil M or Mylanta antacid tablets. Donnatal for stomach cramps. Probiotic capsules taken daily may help keep your gastro-intestinal system working smoothly
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Towel
For wash up in camp
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Handi-Wipes
A small pack or two anti-bacterial are great for general hygiene
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Spare contacts and glasses
Contacts can be a problem in dusty conditions, so make sure you have your back-up glasses with you. Glasses wearers should have a spare set
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Snacks (general)
Bring your favorite snacks and power/energy bars or if there is something else you particularly like to eat while hiking and climbing
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Spare bottle for a pee bottle, and a pee funnel (Lady J or Freshette) for women
It can be a cold walk to the toilet at night
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Insect repellent
A must!
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Personal electronics
Phone with camera, and/or separate camera. Bring extra batteries and memory!
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Electronics charging
If you want to charge your electronics along the way, a small, lightweight solar panel to charge batteries or portable charging device may be a good addition
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Travel power adapter
Most come in kits with all the plugs you need. Double-check to make sure you’re taking the correct adapter/plugs
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Travel clothing
Comfortable clothing for travel before and after the expedition
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Book Trip
Matterhorn
from $3,675
5 Days / In country
- 1:1 - $4,475 per person
- 2:1 - $3,675 per person
Elevation
14,697 ft / 4480 m
Route
Hornli Ridge
Guide Ratio
1:1 or 2:1 client to guide ratio*
* The ascent of the Matterhorn is guided at 1:1 on all trips
Difficulty
Intermediate
Depending on the objective, climbers should be comfortable on steeper snow/ice slopes and/or 5.5-5.7 rock climbing experience. You should have a past climbing experience with proven skills. Certain climbs may require only snow/ice skills, but not require rock skills; and vice-versa.
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