Advanced Alpine Course
Taking it to another level in all terrain
This course, taught in the rugged glaciated environments of the North Cascades, is designed for climbers who are interested in developing more advanced ability in mixed terrain or longer, harder, alpine routes. We can customize the itinerary in a variety of ways by utilizing the incredibly diverse climbing options in Washington State. Be it alpine rock, long snow and ice routes, remote traverses, or harder mixed climbing – we have it all in the Cascades. We are excited to design a custom itinerary based on an 8‑day trip just for you!
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Course Perks
If you train hard for this course you’ll be able to maximize your guide’s knowledge — and if you train really hard you can take on the challenge of trying to physically wear your guide out! Regardless, the big perk here is the low client to guide ratio of either 2:1 or 1:1, allowing you to maximize learning and climbing.
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Description
The philosophy of fast and light alpine climbing is certainly one of the main themes of the course. The topics taught include: advanced climbing techniques, route and equipment choice, complex anchor systems and rescue techniques. This course is perfect training for Mountain Madness’ Ama Dablam and Alpamayo climbs, or for your own personal ascent goals that do not include the use of guide services.
As a participant in this course, you’ll be able to work with your guide to determine what specific training will be appropriate and also what climbing objectives will be pursued. With the client to guide ratio, learning and the amount of climbing accomplished will be maximized.
This is an advanced level trip. Similar and previous experience is required.
This course involves the following:
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Face, crack, and slab rock climbing technique, and multi-pitch alpine rock climbing
- Belay techniques, rappelling, and rope management
- Rock, snow and ice anchor selection, anchor construction, equalization, and use of intermediate protection for lead climbing
- Moderate and steep snow and ice climbing, crampon usage techniques, and proper application of combined skills in a variety of terrain
- Ice axe positioning, self arrest, and balance positioning
- Glaciology and crevasse pattern prediction
- Roped glacier travel, rope team management, route finding, and crevasse navigation
- Crevasse self-rescue techniques (prussiking) and team crevasse rescue techniques
- Navigation using maps, compasses, and altimeters
- Hazard assessment including: discussion of objective vs. subjective hazards, assessment of avalanche danger, crevasse fall, rock and ice fall dangers
- Discussions will include proper clothing and climbing gear for survival in the high mountains, mountain weather, alpine ecology, efficient, competent and self-dependent climbing techniques, and Leave No Trace ethics
- Very strenuous and multi-day approach
- Backpacking with 50 – 60 lb packs
- Glacier travel
- Remoteness
- Steep snow and ice climbing
- Rock climbing to 5.8
- Climbers should have the ability to follow mid-5th class rock with a pack and move steadily for a full day
- Climbers should be in excellent physical condition and very competent on alpine terrain
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Video
Have a Question? Contact Us!
Price
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Advanced Alpine Course
$2,300 – 8 Days
Minimum 2 participants
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Price Includes
- Ground transportation
- Tents
- Group climbing equipment
- Guide services
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Price Does Not Include
- Airfare
- Transportation within Seattle
- Hotel accommodations
- Food in the mountains and restaurant meals
- All personal equipment
- Travel insurance with trip cancellation, medical and evacuation policy
- Guide gratuities
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Payment Schedule
- $400 deposit at time of registration, which includes a $200 non-refundable registration fee
- Balance due 90 days prior to departure
- The balance may be paid by check, wire transfer, ACH or credit card with a 3% convenience fee
Dates
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Advanced Alpine Course 2025
- May 25, 2025 — Jun 1, 2025
- Jun 22, 2025 — Jun 29, 2025
- Jul 27, 2025 — Aug 3, 2025
- Aug 24, 2025 — Aug 31, 2025
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Advanced Alpine Course 2026
- May 24, 2026 — May 31, 2026
- Jun 21, 2026 — Jun 28, 2026
- Jul 26, 2026 — Aug 2, 2026
- Aug 23, 2026 — Aug 30, 2026
Custom Dates Available — Contact Us
Policies
Cancellation / Refund Policy
- MMI strongly recommends trip cancellation/interruption and evacuation insurance for all trips. Our insurance partner, Ripcord, offers comprehensive travel insurance including trip cancellation, as well as rescue/evacuation policies and can assist in answering any questions. In addition, Participant is expected to have sufficient medical insurance as prescribed by their country of origin. Participant understands that MMI does not include any type of insurance with the cost of the trip.
- If you decide to cancel your trip or change your itinerary, MMI must be notified in writing. Your trip will be cancelled from the date written notice is received. If proper written cancellation notice is not received, amounts paid and reservations made will be forfeited.
- Non-refundable fees may apply for certain trips in order to secure permits and other services. MMI must strictly adhere to cancellation policies outside MMI’s control.
- Due to the personalized service we offer on our trips, MMI reserves the right to waive any fees. We will attempt to accommodate changes and cancellations, waiving certain fees when feasible.
- Circumstances outside the control of MMI and its partners, may require amended cancellation/refund policies. Such circumstances may include, but are not limited to COVID-19, natural disasters, wildfires, terrorism and so forth.
Domestic Trips/Courses:
- Full refund, less the non-refundable registration fee, will be provided 91 days or more before the departure date
- No refunds will be provided 90 days or less before the departure date
Trip Insurance
We strongly recommend the purchase of travel cancellation insurance to protect you from the unexpected. You aren’t likely to think of it now, but people do get ill, break a bone, have a family emergency or get assigned to a last-minute business trip. If you are in remote areas, please note that emergency rescue & evacuation can be very expensive.
We also strongly urge you to consider rescue and evacuation insurance if your own policy does not provide the coverage needed. Services available may include, but are not limited to, helicopter evacuation, medical care, etc.
If you choose not to purchase insurance, you assume full responsibility for any expenses incurred in the event of a medical emergency and/or evacuation, as well as for trip cancellation, interruption, lost luggage, etc. We are not the experts and therefore ask that you please consult our travel insurance partner directly with any specific questions.
To protect against losses due to illness, accident, or other unforeseen circumstances, Mountain Madness strongly recommends the purchase of travel insurance as soon as possible after making a deposit. Mountain Madness has partnered with Redpoint Resolutions as our preferred travel insurance provider. Redpoint’s Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ is designed for adventurers.
For a quote, or to purchase travel insurance, please click this link Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ or call +1 – 415-481‑0600. Pricing varies based on age, trip cost, trip length, and level of coverage.
Critical benefits of Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance include:
- A completely integrated program with a single point of contact for emergency services, travel assistance, and insurance claims
- Evacuation and rescue services from your point of injury or illness to your hospital of choice
- Comprehensive travel insurance for trip cancellation/interruption, primary medical expense coverage, baggage loss or delay, emergency accident and emergency sickness medical expense, emergency dental, accidental death and dismemberment, and more
- Optional security evacuation coverage in case of an unplanned natural disaster or other security events
- Waiver for pre-existing conditions (must be purchased within 14 days of tour deposit)
- Optional “Cancel for Any Reason” coverage (must be purchased within 14 days of tour deposit)
Itinerary
Flight Information
For scheduled courses and climbs, you should fly into Seattle-Tacoma International Airport (SeaTac). You are responsible for your transportation to downtown Seattle. You will meet your guide in the early morning of day 1 for an orientation meeting and equipment check.
Advanced Alpine Course Day by Day
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Days 1-3
These three days are scheduled for advanced climbing techniques, intro to leading, and rock rescue at Leavenworth, Index or Fun Rock.
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Day 4
We pack up early and hike into Fisher Chimneys of Mt Shuksan. After we set-up camp we review skills and strategize for the upcoming days. Technical climbing in a stable ice fall with an instructor allows refinement of French, German and American crampon techniques.
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Day 5
Climbing in small groups, we expand on the first day’s review and begin to focus on single and double tool climbing styles. We also begin to introduce protection systems for snow and ice and the application of these systems for steep, technical terrain. Additional time is spent on rescue systems and scenarios for different methods of glacier travel. We will also learn techniques for placing intermediate protection as we focus on techniques for leading technical ice. Route finding skills will also be discussed and practiced as we climb over low to steep angle alpine ice and make a series of rappels. Multi-pitch climbing, simul-climbing, and hanging belays will also be addressed.
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Days 6-7
This day will involve challenging free climbing and route finding as we climb a technical route suited to the group’s abilities. Traveling light, we set out early to cover as much diverse terrain as possible from rock ridges, snow arêtes, and fifty degree ice, to heavily crevassed glaciers. Additionally, students learn to assess and manage objective and subjective hazards, evaluate safe climbing conditions, and learn the role weather plays in this assessment. Hopefully you will have a chance to enjoy the summit and get down to camp before dark.
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Day 8
Hike out and return to Seattle.
Note on Itinerary: Although we do our very best to follow the schedule listed, the very nature of climbing in an alpine environment requires flexibility. This itinerary is subject to change due to inclement weather, unsafe route conditions, and other reasons beyond our control.
Equipment for Advanced Alpine Course
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Carrying Gear
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Large capacity climbing pack (65-75L)
approximately 4000-4500 cubic inch (65-75 liters) capacity, avoid unnecessary options that add weight
Examples:
Black Diamond Mission 75, Osprey Ariel 65
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Sleeping Gear
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Expedition quality sleeping bag (15-20F)
One down or synthetic bag rated from 15-20°F /-9 to -7°C
Examples:
Marmot Helium, Marmot Trestles, Western Mountaineering Apache, North Face Guide 20
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Sleeping pad (inflatable or closed cell foam)
A foam pad will be provided but a supplemental pad is recommended. This can be an inflatable or closed cell foam pad. Make sure to purchase a pad rated for cold conditions.
Examples:
Therm-a-Rest NeoAir & Therm-a-Rest Z Lite Sol
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Climbing Gear
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Alpine climbing harness
Must have adjustable leg loops and fit over all clothing
Examples:
Black Diamond Couloir, Petzl Altitude, Petzl Hirundos
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Locking carabiners (4)
Four large, pear-shaped carabiners are best
Examples:
Black Diamond Rock Lock, Petzl William, Petzl Attache
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Non-locking carabiners (3)
3 non-locking carabiners. wired straight-gates are recommended
Examples:
Black Diamond HotWire
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Mountaineering ice axe
under 5’7” use 60cm, 5’7”-6’2” use 60 or 65cm, over 6’2” use 70cm
Examples:
Black Diamond Raven, Petzl Glacier
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Crampons w/ anti-balling plate
Steel 12-pont. Must be fit to climbing boots prior to trip, new-matic/hybrid type
Examples:
Black Diamond Sabretooth, Petzl Vasak
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Climbing helmet
Lightweight
Examples:
Black Diamond Half Dome, Petzl Elios
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30’ of perlon accessory cord (6mm)
30 feet of 6mm cord
Examples:
Sterling
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Adjustable trekking poles
Three piece poles recommended
Examples:
Black Diamond Trail Back Pole
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Belay device (plaquette)
Tube style
Examples:
Black Diamond ATC Guide, Petzl Reverso
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Prusik Minding Pulley (optional)
for crevasse rescue
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Petzl Micro Traxion
A compact and lightweight progress-capture pulley
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Head and Face
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Fleece or wool hat
It must cover the ears
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Glacier glasses
100% UV protection with side shields and a hard-sided storage case
Examples:
Julbo
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Shade hat or baseball cap
A visor hat with a good brim is essential for protection from the sun
Examples:
Mountain Madness trucker hat
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Balaclava or neck gaiter (optional)
lightweight
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Hands
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Light weight work gloves
lightweight gloves with leather palm for rope work
Examples:
Black Diamond Transition Glove
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Mid-weight gloves
1-2 pairs
Examples:
Black Diamond Punisher Glove
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Feet
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Liner socks (optional)
1-pair lightweight and thin
Examples:
polypropylene or wool
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Syntheric or wool socks
check boot fir to make sure they work together
Examples:
Smartwool ,Patagonia
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Gaiters (optional)
Check fit with boots
Examples:
Outdoor Research Verglas or Crocodile
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Insulated mountaineering boots (NW)
waterproof, insulated, crampon compatible, full shank boots. Many of these boots have Women specific equivalents (May –late June and Ice Climbs)
Examples:
Scarpa Mt Blanc, Scarpa Phantom Tech, La Sportiva Nepal Evo GTX, Salewa Vulture Vertical GTX
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Lightweight mountaineering boots (NW)
waterproof and crampon compatible (HIGHLY recommended from July -October)
Examples:
Scarpa Charmoz, La Sportiva Trango Tower, Salewa Raven, Salewa Crow
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Light trail shoes, camp booties, or sandals (optional)
Trail shoes for when at campgrounds and booties/sandals/Crocs for basecamps when weather and season allow
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Upper Body
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Synthetic t-shirts
Two synthetic or merino wool t-shirts. No cotton!
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Sports bras
Two, synthetic, no cotton!
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Long-sleeved Base Layer
Two lightweight to mediumweight, pull-over is best
Examples:
Patagonia Capilene
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Light weight synthetic jacket
light weight synthetic puffy or fleece
Examples:
Patagonia Nano Puff jacket
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Softshell Jacket w/ hood
This is what you will be wearing while hiking at higher altitudes or while kicking around camps at lower altitude. This jacket should be full-zip
Examples:
Outdoor Research Ferrosi
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Hardshell jacket w/ hood
A good jacket made of Gore-Tex (recommended) or waterproof nylon, roomy enough to fit over multiple layers
Examples:
Outdoor Research Foray, Patagonia Triolet
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Down or synthetic jacket w/hood
This is your most important piece of warm gear and will mean the difference between an enjoyable climb or a miserable one. A warm, full zip jacket with hood is ideal.
Examples:
Helly Hansen Vanir, Feathered Friends Volant, Marmot Guide’s Down Hoody, Outdoor Research Virtuoso Hoody
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Sun hoody
This piece with a high SPF rating and lightweight fabric offers protection from high altitude sun
Examples:
Outdoor Research
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Lower Body
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Long base layer
Two pairs light or mediumweight
Examples:
Patagonia Capilene
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Softshell pants
Softshell pants are water resistant, yet highly breathable and durable. Great for colder conditions over a pair of long underwear or tights higher on the mountain or summit day
Examples:
Outdoor Research Voodoo, Mountain Hardwear Touren, Patagonia Guide
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Hardshell pants
waterproof and breathable with side zips (minimum of ¾ zips recommended) Gore-Tex or equivalent
Examples:
Outdoor Research Furio, Arcteryx Beta AR
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Miscellaneous
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Bear Bag/Bear Canister
Bear bag or bear canister to protect your food from both bears and smaller critters
Examples:
Ursack AllMitey, BearVault,
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Personal first aid kit (NW)
moleskin/blister kit, Band-aids, athletic tape, ibuprofen, personal medications, ect
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Lip balm
Must have SPF rating of 20 or more. Bring two just in case!
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Sunscreen
Bring plenty of sun block with SPF of 40 or more. It's easy to underestimate the amount necessary for your trip!
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Hand sanitizer
enough to last trip length
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Insect repellent
A must!
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Headlamp
Bring extra batteries!
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Water bottles
two 1 liter wide-mouth water bottles
Examples:
Nalgene
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Hydration bladder (optional)
hydration bladder or water bag with drinking tube (must also have 1 Nalgene Bottle or equivalent)
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Water purification (NW)
Purifies drinking water while on the climb
Examples:
Steri Pen, water filter, Potable Aqua, Polar Pure crystal iodine
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Large plastic bowl
Bring a 2-4 cup camping bowl or a plastic "Rubbermaid" style container for your mountain dining
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Lexan spoon or spork
Lightweight and strong
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Insulated cup (12-16oz)
A 12-16 oz (350-500 ml) mug with an attached lid will help keep you hydrated
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Pocket knife or multitool
Simple Swiss Army type with scissors. Make sure you transport in checked bag, not carry-on!
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Toiletry kit (NW)
toilet paper stored in double zip lock bags
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Nylon stuff sacks
for food and gear storage, large ziplocs are useful
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Large plastic bags
heavy duty trash compactor bags recommended
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Bandana (optional)
lightweight
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Snacks (general)
Bring your favorite snacks and power/energy bars or if there is something else you particularly like to eat while hiking and climbing
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Travel clothing
Comfortable clothing for travel before and after the expedition
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Soap, shampoo, towel (optional)
for use at campground showers when on itinerary
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Camera (optional)
or any sort of device that takes pictures
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Cooking Gear (Overnight Courses Only)
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Fuel bottles
If you are flying, Mountain Madness can supply liquid fuel and bottles or fuel canisters when stock is available. We ask that local clients come with their own kit
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Backpacking stove
Complete stove and repair kit. Make sure fuel pump is included for liquid full stoves
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Pot grips
You’ll need these to handle your pot when it’s full of boiling water!
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Bowl
Plastic with 2-3 cup capacity; Tupperware works well
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Cooking pot
1.5 liter/qtsminimum, lightweight pot with tight fitting lid and handle. Aluminum or titanium are much lighter than stainless steel -
Spoon
Good quality plastic (i.e. Lexan)
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Mug
Insulated plastic with lid
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Book Course
Advanced Alpine Course
$2,300
8 Days
Minimum 2 participants
Route
Various
Client to Guide Ratio
2:1
Difficulty
Advanced
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