The Moose’s Tooth
A Classic Alaskan Peak
The Moose’s Tooth, 10,300 ft / 3139 m, is an Alaskan icon and one of the guardians of the entrance to the famed Ruth Gorge. Ham and Eggs is an ultra-classic snow and ice climb that splits the peak’s southern face providing a direct line to the summit ridge. Getting to the true summit from the top of the couloir involves steep Alaskan cornice climbing and a final ice face. This is a must do!
By any route, The Moose’s Tooth is a committing and full-on Alaskan adventure. With a glacier landing on the Root Canal Glacier, strong teams might find it possible to wait for perfect weather, then fly into the base of the route and climb Ham and Eggs in a mere 24 hours from Talkeetna. Alternatively, teams can elect to start from the Ruth Gorge proper, then move up to an advanced base camp, making the trip more of a 6 – 7 day adventure. This is the recommended approach and provides more options for climbs after the Moose’s Tooth, or if weather prohibits flying onto the Root Canal.
This climb is arranged on a custom basis. For more information go here.
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Trip Perks
If you like your eggs scrambled, over easy, poached, or soft cooked, you might as well stay home and go to Denny’s for your eggs. Eggs served in the Ruth Gorge generally tend to be over hard, with side dishes of 70+-degree ice, some verglased rock, cold fingers, and a huge serving of awe for this amazing place — and of course ham. You’ll be full to your heart’s content with this one, and if your still hungry for breakfast, stop in at the classic Roadhouse in Talkeetna on your way home to complete this epic journey.
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Description
This is an advanced level climb. Similar and previous experience is required.
Trip includes the following:
- Complicated glacier travel
- Sustained snow and ice to 90 degrees with two tools
- Mixed rock climbing to 5.9
- Long summit day of 12 – 20 hours, or a bivy on route
Climbers should be in excellent physical condition and very competent on alpine ice terrain
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Alpine Climbing Grades
Grade I: Normally requires several hours; can be of any difficulty.
Grade II: Requires half a day; any technical difficulty
Grade III: Requires a day to do the technical portion; any technical difficulty
Grade IV: Requires a full day for the technical portion; the hardest pitch is usually no less than 5.7 (in the YDS rating)
Grade V: Requires a day and a half; the hardest pitch is usually 5.8 or harder
Grade VI: A multi-day excursion with difficult free climbing and/or aid climbing
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Video
Have a Question? Contact Us!
Price
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The Mooses Tooth
from $6,825 – 7 Days
Includes Glacier Flights to the Root Canal and transfer Anchorage to Talkeetna and return
- 1:1 - $10,025 per person
- 2:1 - $6,825 per person
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Price Includes
- Glacier Flights
- Shuttle to/from Anchorage
- All meals while on the mountain
- Tents
- Stoves
- Cook kits
- Group climbing equipment
- Guide services
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Price Does Not Include
- Airfare
- Hotel accommodations in Anchorage
- Restaurant meals
- All personal equipment
- Travel insurance with trip cancellation, medical and evacuation policy (this is HIGHLY recommended based on the uncertainty of the weather and logistics involved with evacuation. If poor weather does move in, we cannot bump itineraries or add additional days). Please make sure you research all coverage provided.
- Guide gratuities
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Payment Schedule
- $1,500 deposit at time of registration, which includes a $300 non-refundable registration fee
- Balance due 120 days prior to departure
- The balance may be paid by check, wire transfer, ACH or credit card with a 3% convenience fee
Dates
Climb is Arranged on a Custom Basis Early to Mid-May — Contact Us
Policies
Cancellation / Refund Policy
- MMI strongly recommends trip cancellation/interruption and evacuation insurance for all trips. Our insurance partner, Ripcord, offers comprehensive travel insurance including trip cancellation, as well as rescue/evacuation policies and can assist in answering any questions. In addition, Participant is expected to have sufficient medical insurance as prescribed by their country of origin. Participant understands that MMI does not include any type of insurance with the cost of the trip.
- If you decide to cancel your trip or change your itinerary, MMI must be notified in writing. Your trip will be cancelled from the date written notice is received. If proper written cancellation notice is not received, amounts paid and reservations made will be forfeited.
- Non-refundable fees may apply for certain trips in order to secure permits and other services. MMI must strictly adhere to cancellation policies outside MMI’s control.
- Due to the personalized service we offer on our trips, MMI reserves the right to waive any fees. We will attempt to accommodate changes and cancellations, waiving certain fees when feasible.
- Circumstances outside the control of MMI and its partners, may require amended cancellation/refund policies. Such circumstances may include, but are not limited to COVID-19, natural disasters, terrorism and so forth.
Alaska:
- Full refund, less the non-refundable registration fee, will be provided 121 days or more before the departure date
- No refunds will be provided 120 days or less before the departure date
Trip Insurance
We strongly recommend the purchase of travel cancellation insurance to protect you from the unexpected. You aren’t likely to think of it now, but people do get ill, break a bone, have a family emergency or get assigned to a last-minute business trip. If you are in remote areas, please note that emergency rescue & evacuation can be very expensive.
We also strongly urge you to consider rescue and evacuation insurance if your own policy does not provide the coverage needed. Services available may include, but are not limited to, helicopter evacuation, medical care, etc.
If you choose not to purchase insurance, you assume full responsibility for any expenses incurred in the event of a medical emergency and/or evacuation, as well as for trip cancellation, interruption, lost luggage, etc. We are not the experts and therefore ask that you please consult our travel insurance partner directly with any specific questions.
To protect against losses due to illness, accident, or other unforeseen circumstances, Mountain Madness strongly recommends the purchase of travel insurance as soon as possible after making a deposit. Mountain Madness has partnered with Redpoint Resolutions as our preferred travel insurance provider. Redpoint’s Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ is designed for adventurers.
For a quote, or to purchase travel insurance, please click this link Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ or call +1 – 415-481‑0600. Pricing varies based on age, trip cost, trip length, and level of coverage.
Critical benefits of Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance include:
- A completely integrated program with a single point of contact for emergency services, travel assistance, and insurance claims
- Evacuation and rescue services from your point of injury or illness to your hospital of choice
- Comprehensive travel insurance for trip cancellation/interruption, primary medical expense coverage, baggage loss or delay, emergency accident and emergency sickness medical expense, emergency dental, accidental death and dismemberment, and more
- Optional security evacuation coverage in case of an unplanned natural disaster or other security events
- Waiver for pre-existing conditions (must be purchased within 14 days of tour deposit)
- Optional “Cancel for Any Reason” coverage (must be purchased within 14 days of tour deposit)
Itinerary
Flight Information
Fly into Anchorage, Alaska to be present to meet your guide Day 1 of the expedition. We will then drive to Talkeetna for our flight to Ruth Gorge.
The Ham n’ Eggs route on the Moose’s Tooth is best scheduled as a 7‑day trip. The climb itself can be completed in less time, but weather and other delays can necessitate using every available day to attempt the climb. As with all climbs in the Alaska Range, it’s best to approach the climb with a flexible attitude and be ready to climb when the opportunity presents itself – be it on Day 2 or Day 6 of the itinerary.
The Moose's Tooth Day by Day
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Day 1
Anchorage
Arrive in Anchorage and drive to Talkeetna. Your guide will pick you up at your hotel in a rental vehicle (client arrive the night before). There will be time to stop for last-minute gear purchases and supplies if necessary. If arriving on an early morning flight on this day (12 – 1 am) then you will want to get a hotel near the airport.
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Day 2
Ruth Gorge
Pack and prepare to fly into the Ruth Gorge in the afternoon. We’ll hope to fly into the range in the early afternoon but weather or other factors can delay this part of the itinerary.
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Day 3
Ruth Gorge
Skills review and preparation for Ham and Eggs. We may choose to recon the route on this day if we have been successful flying in the day before by climbing the route’s first 3 – 4 pitches then descending back to camp.
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Day 4
Ham and Eggs
Climb Ham and Eggs and descend back to camp. We prefer to climb the route as a single push objective, carrying the minimum amount of overnight gear thus keeping the pack weights light. Round trip route times can be anywhere from 13 – 22 hours. In order to accomplish climbing the route by this method we need a good stable weather window and favorable conditions on the route. The other method of climb the route is to do an overnight at the col, and though this shortens the day pack weights are heavier and we need a longer window of good weather.
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Day 5
Ruth Gorge Weather Day
Weather day. Itinerary flexibility for inclement weather or other delays. If we have completed the route we can fly out on this day or attempt another route in the Ruth Gorge.
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Day 6
Ruth Gorge Weather Day
Weather day. Itinerary flexibility for inclement weather or other delays. We may fly out back to Talkeetna on this day.
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Day 7
Talkeetna / Anchorage
Fly out to Talkeetna, then Anchorage for flight home. Or continue trip in the Ruth Gorge for other alpine objectives.
Note on Itinerary: Although we do our very best to follow the schedule listed, the very nature of climbing in an alpine environment requires flexibility. This itinerary is subject to change due to inclement weather, unsafe route conditions, and other reasons beyond our control.
Equipment for The Moose's Tooth
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Carrying Gear
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Large capacity climbing pack (65-75L)
approximately 4000-4500 cubic inch (65-75 liters) capacity, avoid unnecessary options that add weight
Examples:
Black Diamond Mission 75, Osprey Ariel 65
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Large duffel bag (150L)
One at least 7,000 cubic inch capacity (150 liters). Must be durable and waterproof
Examples:
Patagonia Black Hole
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Summit pack (40L)
Lightweight as possible with a volume approximately 2,500 cubic inches (40 liters)
Examples:
Osprey Mutant 38
Black Diamond Speed 40
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Sleeping Gear
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Expedition quality sleeping bag (-20F/-30C Down or Synthetic)
One down or synthetic bag rated from -20°F / -30°C
Examples:
Feathered Friends Ptarmigan, Marmot Col
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Sleeping pad (inflatable or closed cell foam)
A foam pad will be provided but a supplemental pad is recommended. This can be an inflatable or closed cell foam pad. Make sure to purchase a pad rated for cold conditions.
Examples:
Therm-a-Rest NeoAir & Therm-a-Rest Z Lite Sol
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Sleeping pad (foam)
A foam pad will be provided but a supplemental sleeping pad is advised for warmth and comfort. Closed cell foam 3/4 or full length. This pad is used in conjunction with the first pad
Examples:
Therm-a-rest Ridgerest
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Climbing Gear
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Alpine climbing harness
Must have adjustable leg loops and fit over all clothing
Examples:
Black Diamond Couloir, Petzl Altitude, Petzl Hirundos
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Locking carabiners (3)
Three large, pear-shaped carabiners are best
Examples:
Black Diamond Rock Lock, Petzl William, Petzl Attache
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Non-locking carabiners (6)
6 non-locking carabiners. wired straight-gates are recommended
Examples:
Black Diamond HotWire
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Technical mountaineering ice tools (pair)
or single mountaineering ice axe and single technical tool
Examples:
Petzl Sum'Tec, Petzl Quark, Black Diamond Venom, Black Diamond Cobra
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Spinner leash
ice tool harness attachment points
Examples:
Black Diamond Spinner Leash
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2 Double length nylon runners (48" or 120cm)
2 nylon runners. Be sure to get nylon not dyneema (18mm width)
Examples:
Black Diamond Nylon Slings
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Crampons w/ anti-balling plate
Steel 12-pont. Must be fit to climbing boots prior to trip, new-matic/hybrid type
Examples:
Black Diamond Sabretooth, Petzl Vasak
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Climbing helmet
Lightweight
Examples:
Black Diamond Half Dome, Petzl Elios
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18' of perlon accessory cord
You should bring 18 feet of 6mm cord for cordalette
Examples:
Sterling
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4' of perlon accessory cord (2 total)
Two 4' sections of perlon accessory cord for prussik materials (6mm diameter)
Examples:
Sterling
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Adjustable trekking poles
Three piece poles recommended
Examples:
Black Diamond Trail Back Pole
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Belay device (plaquette)
Tube style
Examples:
Black Diamond ATC Guide, Petzl Reverso
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Shovel
small collapsible style
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Head and Face
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Fleece or wool hat
It must cover the ears
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Glacier glasses
100% UV protection with side shields and a hard-sided storage case
Examples:
Julbo
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Shade hat or baseball cap
A visor hat with a good brim is essential for protection from the sun
Examples:
Mountain Madness trucker hat
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Balaclava or neck gaiter (optional)
lightweight
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Hands
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Light weight work gloves
lightweight gloves with leather palm for rope work
Examples:
Black Diamond Transition Glove
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Mid-weight gloves
1-2 pairs
Examples:
Black Diamond Punisher Glove
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Heavyweight shell glove
Gore-tex or equivalent (trips before July)
Examples:
Black Diamond Enforcer Glove
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Expedition mitts
One pair Gore-Tex or equivalent, with textured palms and taped seams. Synthetic or down filled. Warm, heavy duty for cold temperatures
Examples:
Outdoor Research Altimitt
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Feet
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Thin socks (2 pair)
Two pairs of synthetic or wool socks to wear under heavy wool socks to help prevent blisters and keep feet dry
Examples:
Smartwool or Cool Max
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Thick socks (2 pair)
Two pairs of synthetic or wool socks, medium to heavyweight. Check boot fit with thin and thick socks on
Examples:
Smartwool or Thorlo
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Gaiters
One pair of gaiters made of breathable material; keeps dirt and snow out of boots. Make sure they fit over your boots
Examples:
Outdoor Research Verglas or Crocodiles
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High-altitude double mountaineering boots (6000m)
Plastic or hybrid rated for 6,000-meter peak climbs or winter mountaineering. If you choose a plastic boot, you must have liner boots that are in new or excellent condition!
Examples:
La Sportiva Spantik or G2 SM
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Booties
Synthetic or down to keep feet warm while in tent
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Upper Body
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Synthetic t-shirts
Two synthetic or merino wool t-shirts. No cotton!
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Sports bras
Two, synthetic, no cotton!
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Long-sleeved Base Layer
Two lightweight to mediumweight, pull-over is best
Examples:
Patagonia Capilene
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Light weight synthetic jacket
light weight synthetic puffy or fleece
Examples:
Patagonia Nano Puff jacket
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Softshell Jacket w/ hood
This is what you will be wearing while hiking at higher altitudes or while kicking around camps at lower altitude. This jacket should be full-zip
Examples:
Outdoor Research Ferrosi
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Hardshell jacket w/ hood
A good jacket made of Gore-Tex (recommended) or waterproof nylon, roomy enough to fit over multiple layers
Examples:
Outdoor Research Foray, Patagonia Triolet
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Down or synthetic jacket w/hood
This is your most important piece of warm gear and will mean the difference between an enjoyable climb or a miserable one. A warm, full zip jacket with hood is ideal.
Examples:
Helly Hansen Vanir, Feathered Friends Volant, Marmot Guide’s Down Hoody, Outdoor Research Virtuoso Hoody
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Sun hoody
This piece with a high SPF rating and lightweight fabric offers protection from high altitude sun
Examples:
Outdoor Research
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Lower Body
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Long base layer
Two pairs light or mediumweight
Examples:
Patagonia Capilene
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Softshell pants
Softshell pants are water resistant, yet highly breathable and durable. Great for colder conditions over a pair of long underwear or tights higher on the mountain or summit day
Examples:
Outdoor Research Voodoo, Mountain Hardwear Touren, Patagonia Guide
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Hardshell pants
waterproof and breathable with side zips (minimum of ¾ zips recommended) Gore-Tex or equivalent
Examples:
Outdoor Research Furio, Arcteryx Beta AR
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Insulated pants
Synthetic or down with full side zip. Warm insulation for upper mountain
Examples:
Mountain Hardwear Compressor
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Miscellaneous
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Personal first aid kit (NW)
moleskin/blister kit, Band-aids, athletic tape, ibuprofen, personal medications, ect
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Lip balm
Must have SPF rating of 20 or more. Bring two just in case!
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Sunscreen
Bring plenty of sun block with SPF of 40 or more. It's easy to underestimate the amount necessary for your trip!
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Hand sanitizer
enough to last trip length
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Insect repellent
A must!
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Headlamp
Bring extra batteries!
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Water bottles
two 1 liter wide-mouth water bottles
Examples:
Nalgene
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Hydration bladder (optional)
hydration bladder or water bag with drinking tube (must also have 1 Nalgene Bottle or equivalent)
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Water purification (NW)
Purifies drinking water while on the climb
Examples:
Steri Pen, water filter, Potable Aqua, Polar Pure crystal iodine
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Large plastic bowl
Bring a 2-4 cup camping bowl or a plastic "Rubbermaid" style container for your mountain dining
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Insulated cup (12-16oz)
A 12-16 oz (350-500 ml) mug with an attached lid will help keep you hydrated
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Lexan spoon or spork
Lightweight and strong
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Pocket knife or multitool
Simple Swiss Army type with scissors. Make sure you transport in checked bag, not carry-on!
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Toiletry kit (NW)
toilet paper stored in double zip lock bags
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Nylon stuff sacks
for food and gear storage, large ziplocs are useful
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Large plastic bags
heavy duty trash compactor bags recommended
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Bandana (optional)
lightweight
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Snacks (general)
Bring your favorite snacks and power/energy bars or if there is something else you particularly like to eat while hiking and climbing
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Camera (optional)
or any sort of device that takes pictures
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Soap, shampoo, towel (optional)
for use at campground showers when on itinerary
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Travel clothing
Comfortable clothing for travel before and after the expedition
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The Mooses Tooth
from $6,825
7 Days
Includes Glacier Flights to the Root Canal and transfer Anchorage to Talkeetna and return
- 1:1 - $10,025 per person
- 2:1 - $6,825 per person
Elevation
10,300 ft / 3139 m
Route
Southern Face
Grade
V 5.9, AI4
Difficulty
Advanced
Climbers should be comfortable on 45 to 60 degree snow/ice slopes, waterfall ice climbing up to WI2-WI3, and/or moderate rock from 5.6-5.8+. Participants will have a well-rounded history of climbing experience.
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