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- Oct 20, 2014
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Pik Lenin: Expedition Report
Driving away from Osh toward Pik Lenin, it was clear that we were far from home. A constant line of trucks carting coal for power and heat passed us going the opposite direction, bound for the city. Occasionally a truck would have a slaughtered animal, bleeding and tied to the roof, in addition to its other cargo.
All photos Tino Villanueva
Hours of driving, the last of which were a jarring off-road experience, brought us to Achik-Tash Base Camp. Set in an idyllic high mountain meadow at 11,000 ft, Achik-Tash, is a beautiful place to start the expedition. And after a day of acclimatizing, soaking in the views and enjoying the authentic yurt dining room we left for higher ground.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC01556_-2-.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=1701ba8ccc0175b9d74dacef06068616 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC01556_-2-.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=65b53ae71ad8eefbc83d431e85c531cd 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC01556_-2-.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=021b2bb5bcf09dcb4b9c47aa1a13e420 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC01556_-2-.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=239e32e3697fab34df9584b798b59941 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC01556_-2-.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=00118859825851b3f2a7c083a9f08005 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC01556_-2-.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=8205db8ec5bc56465347da78eb8f4e5c 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC01556_-2-.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=f4c67e8ae15e80b6c21690281ef736c3 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC01556_-2-.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=862b317783eb1a55d83119d84fbc5fda 1024w)
Horses carried the majority of our equipment up to Advanced Base Camp, where we would spend most of our time on the mountain. The trek to ABC traveled parallel to the massive Lenin Glacier, sometimes on a path literally cut into the mountain side in a lateral moraine through loose scree.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC01572_-2-.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=088acd8843baa16f449711ea49c2c91b 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC01572_-2-.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=7b5baed0b28ad71ddc9dfb751944aefb 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC01572_-2-.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=0198618d8e53c6bb76085f957431cc41 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC01572_-2-.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=7bd8fd7ab3619e6d1234f5f0412b0fa4 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC01572_-2-.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=2b61944af41c4c10ce4a55f44dd08adb 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC01572_-2-.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=6c1806a3045710028e702506b55b628b 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC01572_-2-.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=0a3acb86c0f4a72ae8a54cdf6c59037f 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC01572_-2-.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=8be117a6e5dd71276fd12906d9858cb8 1024w)
Some areas were quite steep and subject to rockfall and even though we were attentive and moved fast through these areas, I was hit by a rock. This was not a place you wanted to fall, and as the horses and riders passed with our equipment we were all glad to be walking instead of riding.
Advanced Base Camp was tucked into a glacial moraine and the service and hospitality at 14,000 ft was excellent. Tasty local cuisine (better than the food in Osh!) and basic creature comforts made ABC a great spot to recharge before heading up on the upper mountain.
There was even a shower available in the camp and, until I witnessed someone run out of the shower tent half-naked after nearly burning it down, I even considered using one.
Soon though, again, it was time to move upward.
We planned for two rotations on the mountain. The first would have us staying at Camp 2 (17,000 ft), yet acclimatizing and climbing to Camp 3, the high camp at 20,000 ft.
The climbing on Pik Lenin is not difficult, but it is also not simply a slog. The first true climbing day from ABC to Camp 2 is tough.
Steep and sustained glacier climbing, with an average slope angle of 30 degrees (and steeper steps) makes up the majority of the terrain covered.
It is the sustained nature of the climbing that makes it strenuous, and though porters can be hired to ease the pain, that day took us 9 hours to climb 3,000 ft. We climbed to Camp 3 the following day and returned to ABC the day after.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC01584_-2-.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=201189431f04bcc0105dc2c9a924a279 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC01584_-2-.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=86d491bc9b5ac58605a35b9737469649 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC01584_-2-.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=46d820aa7a3aaebf970a371db2e14699 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC01584_-2-.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=fd708676c0694ec5e064e316b04eac33 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC01584_-2-.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=d8c8ab34571a8cf411eb15702ced20a8 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC01584_-2-.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=bb78202d4c9f70d45b2af303974ce1d3 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC01584_-2-.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=5d57e8dbde2b04c4d082d50ae1e0a83d 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC01584_-2-.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=bdec30960cb009d8493a694e95f67232 1024w)
Throughout the trip we had been experiencing convective afternoon snow storms. For the most part these squalls were light and inconsequential, though sometimes creating whiteout conditions.
However, upon return to ABC for two planned rest days, a bigger storm descended on the mountain and for nearly 24 hours the mountain disappeared behind a sea of grey, the sounds of the tide crashing unseen behind the wall of clouds.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC00243.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=74c48700d860fb7e9bde0b26d4368755 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC00243.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=bc335004c3c08cc5215e781346eb5e58 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC00243.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=051835e7de2040bac18239069540e53d 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC00243.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=1fdea3711373702eb747960feea66cc8 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC00243.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=f4b9d3ce84092cef3517aaf571b67d52 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC00243.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=839df043d8db7a1216ddcc90f3597943 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC00243.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=86dded8ae29dab931de23b9e0ff26d9c 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC00243.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=86fb9f56b76ba415dca78879d92bf13c 1024w)
When the skies cleared we had 4 inches of snow on the ground in camp and a loose snow avalanche had run across the climbing route. Nothing terribly serious, but it was becoming clear that travel on the upper mountain may be tricky.
Returning to the upper mountain, it was evident things were not going to be easy. Brutal trail breaking from Camp 2 to Camp 3 robbed our team of energy.
Even our porter, who had climbed to the summit from ABC in 6 hours, struggled and barely arrived before us into camp. The consecutive days of snow, and then wind, created a punchy snow surface requiring everyone to break trail.
Summit day arrived and we gave it our best effort. However, similar conditions, and a constant biting wind, conspired to make conditions too cold and too difficult to reach the summit.
Every group that attempted the summit from Camp 3 returned empty handed, though one group that had camped higher returned with frostbite.
After a huge effort, we climbed to 6700 meters and accepted that the mountain was not going to let us have our way this time.
However, I don’t see the expedition as returning empty handed. Our team got to explore a deep corner of the world most will never see.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC00264.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=5f1e8643ab24c44da074f4e43770ae75 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC00264.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=4c3c38b7f93d95b6e8dbdf6ac65f876b 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC00264.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=f3576e7c0e2cb416c6aa2dc900abb91f 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC00264.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=5bbb5d942174ea74e915812b9c7fa21b 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC00264.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=7f7ef746b2b0bfffa5eabbf8a1fddaf6 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC00264.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=da46e92af2e59ae929ed5d0dbec61273 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC00264.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=558b2978827fa5ffc35db4d662ade7f9 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FDSC00264.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=6b91d1a4137f495a8511ae4d06ae3736 1024w)
We spent time with friends on a beautiful, massive mountain, testing our own limits.
And most importantly we all returned safely home so we can do it again, somewhere else in this big world.
~ MM Guide Tino Villanueva
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