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- Aug 23, 2011
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Makin’ It Happen at the 11th Hour!
Last season I had the pleasure to work with local Seattle climber, Michael Knoll, on a trip to one of the North Cascade’s most hallowed peaks, Mt. Goode. It was one of those phone calls that comes at 4 p.m., when all your ducks are in a row for the coming day, and you’re half out the door: “Got any guides interested in climbing Goode’s NE Buttress?” he asked casually. “Umm, ya, of course,” I responded. “ANY of our guides would gladly take on that mission!” “Well, conditions are perfect and I’m packing NOW — I’d like to leave tomorrow at 6 a.m.”
I had, in fact, never heard of a successful guided ascent of Goode (or even an attempt, for that matter), let alone one that was conceived 12 hours before lift-off. “I’ll make some phone calls and get back to you, Michael” In the spirit of Scott Fischer’s “Make it Happen” credo I pulled out all the stops and plucked MM Guide, Jaime Pollitte (who was rock climbing in Squamish, British Columbia on a day off), for the once-in-a-lifetime mission. Jaime is one of those natural super-athletes, with a stellar combination of professionalism and technical expertise, a long career teaching in the mountains, and a willingness to throw himself at anything. A perfect match really – especially given the fact that he knew next to nothing about the route and he would have little time to think about it and chose the softer path of sunny rock climbing by the water! He balked a bit on the phone when I mentioned the 2 day approach, bushwhacking and long dangerous descent. “But it’s a ‘hallowed classic’ Jaime,” I implored. “You’re gonna love it!” Three days into the trip I thought about those guys, high on the NE Buttress, 20 miles in, and wondered if Jaime was wishing he was climbing one of the “hallowed classics” of Squamish’s Grand Wall instead of one of the North Cascades most remote peaks.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FGoode_NE_Buttress_Jaime_Pollitte.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=a217d5090bc23fbc95d6d156d12945f9 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FGoode_NE_Buttress_Jaime_Pollitte.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=60759ab7e8ef8e4a94d0cf053d3ce2b3 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FGoode_NE_Buttress_Jaime_Pollitte.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=73f0d439e5afdde83e62aa79d6a85663 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FGoode_NE_Buttress_Jaime_Pollitte.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=f5a04ece17d328e8bef0d599ff937c0a 720w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FGoode_NE_Buttress_Jaime_Pollitte.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=dd2f5fe56fddb096285e15bfce75a87f 720w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FGoode_NE_Buttress_Jaime_Pollitte.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=146122fb6b5d9e22a829add3be81a1a0 720w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FGoode_NE_Buttress_Jaime_Pollitte.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=8daeaf6ab94c66c7a3f45ef848abccd1 720w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FGoode_NE_Buttress_Jaime_Pollitte.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=0b86b073322f251e1b63b68f73a0e2fc 720w)
Mt. Goode NE Buttress. Jaime Pollitte photo
Fast forward a year (after Michael and Jaime succeeded in great style on Mt. Goode)….
“Jeremy, it’s Michael Knoll.” “Hey, how are you? O’…wait…what do you want to do tomorrow?!” We both laughed, reminisced briefly about Goode and serendipity and life in general, and then he dropped it: “Well, I was thinking about Redoubt, Spickard, Bear, or anything in that area….TOMORROW!” Of course. Figured. Big, remote and classic. Seldom, if ever, guided. We agreed to go in via Canada. I wrangled another keen mountain guide with the an amazing combination of skills, enthusiasm and thirst for adventure – Ian Nicholson. Made another round of calls, busted out the logistics, permitting and payment. And they were off.
Jeremy Allyn, North America Program Director
Report by Ian Nicholson:
Michael and I met at my house in Seattle at 6 a.m. for a quick gear shuffle and, before we knew it, we were on our way. The U.S.A –Canada border crossing was smooth and took less than 10 minutes. The drive down to the east end of Chilliwack lake was extremely bumpy – one local guidebook describes this part of the road as being a “pot hole breeding ground.” The final 2 miles of the road were extremely rough with full blown four-wheeling over big rocks, deep wash-outs, and across creeks.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMox1.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=b88f7cb09f721814ad0363edfcb9c24c 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMox1.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=4573ec438794b12b6c3c4d05b84a7ba3 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMox1.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=d634dbfdc4bf81fbefa0fdb852accd16 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMox1.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=e1b4a1eee536ae23ae5f769f49591310 768w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMox1.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=7bec9cb36d3f8d2bde7679df00ac4971 768w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMox1.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=ef04a4e123435412080553d2c9756ed5 768w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMox1.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=57ce2a659f98849e40c859429fbac1cb 768w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMox1.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=f6179e18f03f1b67790d1312a1ad080e 768w)
USA-Canada border. Ian Nicholson photo
We got to the trail head around noon and then hiked one mile up the old road to the border proper. Interestingly, this was the first time either of us had crossed an international boarder on foot. After a couple of hours we reached the nearly 800-foot tall Depot Creek Falls – one of the region’s many highlights. We got to camp late that afternoon and set up our tents around 5,000 feet below the North face of Mt. Redoubt.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDepot_Creek_Falls.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=33fdf9e2677879eddc8563245b6b7f3b 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDepot_Creek_Falls.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=1a3fa9170933e71d6b0fe1a3faa90858 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDepot_Creek_Falls.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=c9a25ceed550eab6f80f4b370812432b 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDepot_Creek_Falls.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=f3bff1f66662cc8b90057ec669c844a5 768w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDepot_Creek_Falls.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=7460f31f578d01572eed8b5a1c129e23 768w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDepot_Creek_Falls.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=1b4e8d3f2b92997820a072e9997b35b6 768w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDepot_Creek_Falls.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=1b300db10429419edc5b01fffc191e6a 768w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FDepot_Creek_Falls.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=67368aee9bd431639ec7a39a17036d0b 768w)
Depot Creek Falls. Ian Nicholson photo
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMichael_Knoll.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=b930c20485baf4124abea872ce8b3b32 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMichael_Knoll.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=145c95ba238d0abc7721d2be1f4f212c 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMichael_Knoll.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=92a1cd4987c221a4a4aa0e2393e72d36 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMichael_Knoll.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=7b08eb6eda70d5590a943c3f2cc14633 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMichael_Knoll.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=4ad186319e52918139d23253117a08f7 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMichael_Knoll.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=2bcaadc15213c785f0fce3200701d415 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMichael_Knoll.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=218fbb5622f8abd9fd5a978d71c78274 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMichael_Knoll.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=9a3567cec2fe9ddfcb49c76ea757f703 1024w)
Michael Knoll. Ian Nicholson photo
The next morning we awoke at 5 a.m. and left camp at 6 a.m., trekking just over an hour up the valley to the beautiful Lake Ozuel. Above this, we ascended the Redoubt glacier and wrapped our way up and around to the West Ridge of NE Mox Peak (8,404 feet). To get to the base of the rock climbing section we had to climb a short section of 50 degree névé. The upper ridge was approximately 10 – 12 rope lengths of slightly loose, but incredibly enjoyable, rock in a spectacular position. The views from this remote summit were amazing – the northern Picket Range, Mt. Baker, Mt. Shuksan, just to name a few.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FIan_Nicholson.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=c2ca38a70002b57f6dd1322cb89a215c 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FIan_Nicholson.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=726b417d10e60d6b300512f1e0c85fe2 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FIan_Nicholson.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=49756fa88a8d8f1facd40bef5d61a3f0 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FIan_Nicholson.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=2257b63ee0aab6b4a627cd9302fbaa5e 768w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FIan_Nicholson.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=afd75594bbf3c0e9f3cc6c3dbe3ab14c 768w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FIan_Nicholson.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=847d3b6143e0908976ee13eb27f03fb3 768w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FIan_Nicholson.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=b36717f17cb669590886d58b4cf2af70 768w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FIan_Nicholson.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=6220a620b874dcb4b9260f51100d926f 768w)
Guide Ian Nicholson
Similar to the previous day, we woke up at 5 a.m., and left at 6 a.m., for the now familiar hike to Lake Ozuel. This time we headed north, gaining the col between Mt. Custer and Mt. Spickard by 9:45 a.m.. From here we were greeted with excellent views of Silver Lake and the Silver Lake Glacier. We both talked about how long we had wanted to visit this place since we first saw a photo of it in Fred Becky’s Cascade Alpine Guide.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FSilver_Lake.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=96dff7031546e010e48ac2cf2cb26094 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FSilver_Lake.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=bdfb11a15395189b5819ae8c023f480d 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FSilver_Lake.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=b99509449e5700c7dcd82cb15bd01d7e 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FSilver_Lake.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=95e3cf47bd7f87d98e5d782a74db159e 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FSilver_Lake.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=1ff06f084944945b01abaebc7f5e5fae 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FSilver_Lake.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=91222441ac588bf7845138a12529dcbc 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FSilver_Lake.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=b8f9a50a46afef8d1ec120f09a90e3bf 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FSilver_Lake.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=a7e172fa766337ee44a07d9490ae3ffe 1024w)
Silver Lake. Ian Nicholson photo
The climb of the Silver Lake Glacier route was steep and we belayed the final 400ft as the angles hit 50 degrees and where we were forced to cross several steep crevasses. The final 5.0 ridge was on solid rock and very fun! We summited the 8,979 foot Mt. Spickard by 2 p.m.. It was amazing to think about how we were only 1.5 miles from Canada. We took a break to enjoy the summit with its breathtaking views of the largest roadless area in the lower 48, complete with hundreds of glaciated peaks stretching off in every direction. Off the top we mistakenly took the wrong gulley down for about 350 feet. After realizing this, we climbed back to the summit for a second time, picked the correct gully, and made our way down the south face route and back to camp.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FOn_the_summit_.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=f420442fd280b1f3c5a0a5d44ec49987 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FOn_the_summit_.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=2685c7ba2029769e54d6c416a2de7b35 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FOn_the_summit_.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=059e98dde52db221ebbd87e6e93714a6 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FOn_the_summit_.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=0fa94f58c973b40cb2218d56da247936 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FOn_the_summit_.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=9c4a976376ea12bc0b673eae032120c7 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FOn_the_summit_.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=3334d9f088ef251ea82569fda8f12711 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FOn_the_summit_.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=11cde071a0f32e9eee8fc67e17157b53 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FOn_the_summit_.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=71090f2883452317a84a11b68f83fd03 1024w)
On the summit! Ian Nicholson photo
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FRedoubt_Shuksan_and_Baker_in_the_background.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=b38ecd693e2b3aff3660bf259165981b 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FRedoubt_Shuksan_and_Baker_in_the_background.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=7bda0c154c60898a81fee340a9c1db08 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FRedoubt_Shuksan_and_Baker_in_the_background.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=0794564362950c026b9ce4646bb8e08d 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FRedoubt_Shuksan_and_Baker_in_the_background.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=832264ba7e7cb5b20c44d8e6aa46431f 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FRedoubt_Shuksan_and_Baker_in_the_background.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=b0f782830fb2c719ba16ada6aedce43b 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FRedoubt_Shuksan_and_Baker_in_the_background.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=ff003e83d59298f076f6aa0ee1da86cc 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FRedoubt_Shuksan_and_Baker_in_the_background.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=f5a685f4ef93d48eee951afcdc964671 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FRedoubt_Shuksan_and_Baker_in_the_background.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=40522ccda944060a75a41f594fbaa7b5 1024w)
Redoubt, Shuksan and Baker in the background. Ian Nicholson photo
On our fourth day – with the goal of the classic Northeast Face of Mt. Redoubt – we woke up early again. Unfortunately, Michael’s feet were in pretty rough shape with blisters after three full days of Cascadian travel. After a quick but heartfelt discussion, we decided to take it easy and not attempt Redoubt – one of the giant peaks of the range. After a bit more sleep, we ate breakfast and covered crevasse rescue and some rope management/efficiency tricks around camp until early afternoon. The hike out took us 3.5 hours and went smoothly. Thanks to Michael for the super fun trip – one of my favorites of the year!
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FNE_Face_of_Mt._Redoubt.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=f5542e5d3c813e987d3a2cc98a3535ba 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FNE_Face_of_Mt._Redoubt.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=7013d0473d0e1c91b3f1adb52a2e9e42 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FNE_Face_of_Mt._Redoubt.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=64590c09ed16d05c8dcb6afc3e91a973 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FNE_Face_of_Mt._Redoubt.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=3633590bc9179ac38ad700c864b66adb 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FNE_Face_of_Mt._Redoubt.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=d88ec4b73cefb6d97714a53407b9e708 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FNE_Face_of_Mt._Redoubt.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=c6343167e2aa56161218188b6e71c8c8 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FNE_Face_of_Mt._Redoubt.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=ddea081ad10da1ecf2209e899ac4bcce 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FNE_Face_of_Mt._Redoubt.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=9b14c56dde3f148af86ca896529eb7d6 1024w)
NE Face of Mt. Redoubt. Ian Nicholson photo