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Vinson Massif Expedition — January 2 – 25, 2015
Thank you to our climber, Dave Creeden, for sharing his experience on our recent Vinson Massif expedition in Antarctica!
The Vinson Massif is the highest mountain (16,050 feet) in Antarctica located in the Sentinel Range of the Ellsworth Mountains, lying at a latitude of little more than 78 degrees south.
I signed up to climb Vinson with Mountain Madness and our group was led by an excellent guide Ossy Freire from Quito, Ecuador.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F20150109_161034-XL.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=7b8513e45aa9a70cce87ed173d9a480e 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F20150109_161034-XL.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=7278ec8616f98a0bc57a9916f6927829 432w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F20150109_161034-XL.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=e754696ac90bb366ad77824e65552bce 432w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F20150109_161034-XL.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=184bb2aeb21c72b8c6f27f497d47336b 432w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F20150109_161034-XL.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=f0eab0e1f3f5426b1662786538e3cd48 432w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F20150109_161034-XL.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=4faedf87531deb3e5d9fc014784560a3 432w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F20150109_161034-XL.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=d5083233bf33d80de527c6a464752b5e 432w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F20150109_161034-XL.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=081f1999598f68b25ccb5695d233dd7e 432w)
Our guide Ossy Freire relaxing at Union Glacier field camp. Oswaldo Freire photo
Although he is a very experienced guide, this would be his first attempt to climb Vinson, so it offered a personal reward for him to scale this mountain too. There were two other clients besides myself. Urszula from Calgary, Alberta, and Jean-Pierre (J.P.) from Holland.
I left Sea-Tac on January 5th, a day earlier than necessary, with four check-in bags, two and half of which were full of group gear. A Mountain Madness employee, Steve G., met me at the airport, with two of the bags, to ease my burden by assisting me with checking the bags onto my flight. I flew from Sea-Tac to Punta Arenas, Chile, with stopovers in LA, Lima and Santiago, spending a little over 30 hours in transit. From the Punta Arenas airport I took a 30 minute taxi ride to my hotel room located downtown, where I soon meet Ossy and transferred the group gear to him. Over the next 24 hours Urszula and J.P. arrived.
The team spent January 6 – 8 getting organized for our flight from Punta Arenas to Union Glacier, Antarctica along with seeing the sites of Punta Arenas.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FMt_Vinson_005-XL.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=baae430c50be79ef200e12f80c2a9f0e 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FMt_Vinson_005-XL.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=79e68bb281d7aa2f9058a97e8d646142 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FMt_Vinson_005-XL.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=2b4737c46c2db3a71550adccbed0317b 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FMt_Vinson_005-XL.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=19d9172d6828840762567c868f1b6f0f 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FMt_Vinson_005-XL.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=38dbcbf10b8ee796c6b94c6e2ba30da8 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FMt_Vinson_005-XL.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=adc49424b05604427ce74e0e13e96418 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FMt_Vinson_005-XL.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=2ed90e216af69f285cc93f79fa178384 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FMt_Vinson_005-XL.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=ea7961c12a6a9115ef87d02bedcbf8c8 1024w)
These guys could play in Carlos Santana’s percussion section. Dave Creeden photo
The logistics for traveling to and around Antarctica are handled by the company Antarctic Logistic and Expeditions (ALE).
They operate a blue-ice runway about 5½ miles away from the field camp that allows a Russian jet cargo aircraft Ilyushin II-76 to land and takeoff. This aircraft was designed to cope with the worst weather conditions in Siberia. There is also a runway right next to the field camp in which Twin Otter and Basler BT-67 (retrofitted DC‑3 with turboprop engines) ski planes can operate from. They use these aircraft to fly clients to the South Pole and climbers up to Vinson Base Camp.
On the evening of the 8th, all the climbing team members, people flying to the South Pole and people doing various other activities on the continent, attended a meeting at ALE’s office in town.
There were a total of 42 clients flying to Union Glacier field camp. ALE briefed us about the flight along with the do’s and don’t’s while on the continent. The key bit of info was that the flying conditions were within the parameters of the Ilyushin II-76, so it was all systems go for departure the next morning.
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ALE’s meteorologist giving us a weather briefing. Dave Creeden photo
January 9th
The clients were staying at numerous hotels around town, so in the morning ALE used three light trucks to go around to the hotels to collect baggage, while the clients were transported to the airport in vans.
The duration of the flight to Union Glacier was about 4 hours and 20 minutes, arriving around 12:30 PM.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FMt_Vinson_015-XL.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=8d0ebe9480600dc0de5722ab30c27244 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FMt_Vinson_015-XL.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=b398fe189d2247b9fe5a2c3a9320b907 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FMt_Vinson_015-XL.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=edc8b983e44e2c939d98bb3e6f4cd3f3 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FMt_Vinson_015-XL.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=1ad4388a77539fba2964064488801e77 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FMt_Vinson_015-XL.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=d29b8aaf60be675f4828faa8a2dbdd2b 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FMt_Vinson_015-XL.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=35ee4d20de8b959fff9f02652deab6f0 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FMt_Vinson_015-XL.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=f288ec0d0fde5d98d729bc394afc1cd4 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FMt_Vinson_015-XL.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=a64d2f032c2062b41baa8ea0df7e1c0c 1024w)
Photo of the interior of the Ilyushin II-76, looking aft. Dave Creeden photo
The Ilyushin had a large flat panel screen mounted above the flight officer’s station, so you could watch the flight’s progress on a map, along with a video feed of the flight via a cam mounted on the lower nose cone of the aircraft.
Upon landing the aircraft, the Ilyushin does not immediately apply brakes, but uses its thrust reversers to gradually slow down instead. What a sleigh ride!
The clients hopped into especially designed 4 x 4 snow vehicles for the 5 ½ mile ride to the Union Glacier field camp, while our baggage came along on sleds towed by snow cats.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FMt_Vinson_028-XL.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=1459e004e0c2d0249c24a9b280cae1f2 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FMt_Vinson_028-XL.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=f0a89649cf72469a8902ac1c403d8e81 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FMt_Vinson_028-XL.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=5b88bc38f27e262b28476be9ec26d303 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FMt_Vinson_028-XL.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=ea38d4fbea4cb5471a76a8a155bc3152 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FMt_Vinson_028-XL.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=75b53096a5d0065daaf6a8e4384b9af5 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FMt_Vinson_028-XL.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=8662856c76379958f0b4279014b2b2cc 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FMt_Vinson_028-XL.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=ebe673a9869d5fb51aacef1f6b45ed4c 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FMt_Vinson_028-XL.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=ca6180a9c4601443306566a94f0400d4 1024w)
Dave, Urszula and J.P. at blue ice runway at Union Glacier. Dave Creeden photo
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Snow cat hauling precious fuel at Union Glacier field camp. Oswaldo Freire photo
We had lunch in one of the large tents set up for clients. There was a box containing rubber stamps with various designs of Antarctica, the South Pole and Vinson that tourists can use to stamp their passports if they wish. I found one for Antarctica that I liked and stamped my passport. I found a cool rubber stamp for Vinson, but I didn’t stamp my passport. I would wait until after I climbed Vinson before I stamped my passport. Ossy and J.P. stamped their Passports with the Vinson rubber stamp anyway and we teased each other about whether or not it was bad luck to do so.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FMt_Vinson_031-XL.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=19f2dbf2756c2f6a63132fad8463bc0d 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FMt_Vinson_031-XL.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=7ca8d2ab10d3c8482542228eabac9ec1 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FMt_Vinson_031-XL.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=c19f418e4a8e85d13ad50401ac5b1c4d 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FMt_Vinson_031-XL.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=4aad07ffec335660b9426ac0461e0635 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FMt_Vinson_031-XL.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=7fa656d68df8d08c35fb60df705c14ae 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FMt_Vinson_031-XL.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=cb4185b126ee61c8b08c6084576f18b6 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FMt_Vinson_031-XL.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=ae31e98a6d9bc68f6179153b27d5f0ea 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FMt_Vinson_031-XL.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=30ae19da4516bff54eba8c630d92b117 1024w)
Union Glacier field camp, with baggage stacked up and ready to be loaded. Dave Creeden photo
Around 3 PM the various climbing teams began flying into Vinson Base Camp on the two Twin Otters. At 4 PM our group flew on the Basler, which cannot land at Vinson Base Camp (7,000 feet). After about a 30 minute flight we landed at an intermediate runway, then unloaded our gear. After a short wait, the Twin Otters arrived and we reloaded our gear to complete the flight to Vinson Base Camp, arriving around 5:30 PM.
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Loading up a Twin Otter at intermediate runway for flight to Vinson Base Camp. Oswaldo Freire photo
At 9:30 PM, Ossy attended a meeting of the guides called by ANI, to go over the coordination of the movement by all the climbing teams on the mountain. There were two especially large climbing groups on the mountain, ANI (18 people) and Alpine Ascents (About a dozen people). It was determined that the Mountain Madness group would leave around 2:30 PM.
January 10th
The obvious difference about climbing in Antarctica during this time of year, is that you don’t need to be concerned about darkness. However there are certain times of time that it is strongly recommend that you climb, because if weather is clear you will out of the shade, so it will be warmer. For example, Vinson Base Camp is in the shade from 3:00 to 5:00, so teams generally leave for Low Camp in the late morning or afternoon. At Low Camp, it is covered in shade from about 3:00 to 11:30, so teams leave camp around 13:00 to 14:00 hours. High Camp is in the shade from 23:00 to 8:00 hours, so teams generally leave for the summit after 8:00.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FMt_Vinson_044-XL.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=e4ee60de0dfaa0817bd40d6a66ece185 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FMt_Vinson_044-XL.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=9130770d287319eaa3dc228d9f2fcf2c 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FMt_Vinson_044-XL.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=50a5380e5d41fc0d80b45a72ddcdfeb0 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FMt_Vinson_044-XL.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=754fb39132420babe28efc7160cd8bfc 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FMt_Vinson_044-XL.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=a418e5e6c426ff90552a9b27c7504d72 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FMt_Vinson_044-XL.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=d0b93ccc599e355e26f5be9d22939cf4 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FMt_Vinson_044-XL.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=845c34b73b8530729fc249371d299183 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FMt_Vinson_044-XL.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=6ca570c776048e7d921ba14dc36ba952 1024w)
Ossy and Urszula getting sleds loaded at Vinson Base Camp for ascent to Low Camp. Dave Creeden photo
Ossy’s plan was for us to move all our gear from Vinson Base Camp to Low Camp at 9,000 feet. Other groups planned to do a carry to Low Camp and then return to BC. We loaded our sleds with about half of our gear and the remainder we carried on our backpacks. We strapped on our crampons and roped up for the gradual ascend up the Branscomb Glacier, with the route taking a left turn after about 2 ½ miles. Another 3 miles across flat terrain led us to Low Camp. There were several crevasses on the inside corner of the glacier, along with a couple crevasses across the flagged route – but no show stoppers. There was steep rock cliffs partially covered with snow, along with seracs, on the right hand side of the route.
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Group hauling sleds up Branscomb Glacier to Low Camp. Oswaldo Freire photo
January 11th
The weather was clear and cold for this planned rest day, which gave us a chance to acclimatize. Due to the thinning of the atmosphere at polar regions, the elevation feels higher (For example 9,000 feet, feels like 11,000 feet). Other climbing parties arrived during the day, including a large group from ANI.
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Low camp. Oswaldo Freire photo
January 12th
The plan for this day was to do to a carry to High Camp at 12,400 feet. This involved ascending a series of fixed lined over 3,000 feet, up to 45 degrees. The weather was overcast with visibility less than half a mile, with no wind. We walked a little under 2 km to the bottom of the headwall. In a way I felt it was fortunate that the visibility was poor, so you couldn’t see how far the monotonous ascend was that we jumared up. At the top of the headwall we took a break and discussed various options. Given a variety of factors, we decided to turn back to Low Camp. We unloaded our backpacks and stashed our gear in plastic bags in the nearby rocks, then descended to Low Camp.
January 13th
Everyone was feeling good today, so we broke camp and loaded up our backpacks for the grunt up the headwall. The weather had cleared so we had splendid views on our ascent up the fixed lines. There was a moderate breeze which kept me from overheating.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FMt_Vinson_055-XL.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=c07fcf15939bdc8e3a2bbfbf45aaf4b4 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FMt_Vinson_055-XL.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=cf408006ab3badd2b023e260b0e4263b 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FMt_Vinson_055-XL.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=b1a353b4878da88984c8026d1edce1b9 576w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FMt_Vinson_055-XL.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=6d85fee1e7df57ad1bec5675191b01ca 576w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FMt_Vinson_055-XL.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=534b69bf7f6a668130ef5b2859906b0e 576w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FMt_Vinson_055-XL.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=308f38cb60ac3b00c766e5806f920345 576w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FMt_Vinson_055-XL.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=3410118bf95ba30cd59edf7e80101e72 576w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2FMt_Vinson_055-XL.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=525defd6a14290a0905a08304a801b7e 576w)
A rest stop amongst the rocks, about halfway up the headwall. Low Camp in middle ground. Dave Creeden photo
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Urszula and Ossy taking a snack break. Dave Creeden photo
At the top of the headwall we jammed the gear we stashed the previous day into and onto our already full packs. We then trudged the remaining distance to High Camp. We had great views of Mt Shinn along with other peaks, but the actual summit of Vinson was not within line of sight from High Camp. By the end of the day there was a horde of climbers in position for an attempt on the summit.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F20150115_101109-XL.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=b8e916a68c00315603d63d3148d428cb 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F20150115_101109-XL.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=10e4ccb9b9df9c579b718d25ec9618df 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F20150115_101109-XL.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=88b5e740a0cdc947e0c24f549d5ff646 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F20150115_101109-XL.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=b3f31ecea5ea534e3697967ade06e168 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F20150115_101109-XL.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=8c137179003579132bae2fc79cf676d4 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F20150115_101109-XL.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=e91f8efb928b6755aa131bc528623fad 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F20150115_101109-XL.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=118dc4bb350476abf245667e1bb3af47 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F20150115_101109-XL.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=22254892ab20a1a6e5169ff8f751ae45 1024w)
Group takes a break on approach to High Camp. Mt. Shinn in the background. Oswaldo Freire photo
January 14th
This was a planned rest day to get ready for our push for the summit the next day. A group of four Austrian climbers left for the summit a little before 11 AM. The weather was partially overcast, so the views were poor. ALE provides twice daily weather cast info for the guides, at noon and 7 PM. Ossy listened attentively to the 7 PM forecast which sounded promising.
January 15th
Ossy got up first around 7 AM to visually check the weather. Just being in the tent, I could notice that there was little or no breeze and I could see the sun shining on the rainfly of the tent, so I felt optimistic that we would go. We got a thumbs up from Ossy shortly thereafter, so we got up had a quick meal and packed for the summit.
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Group just leaving High Camp for the summit. Oswaldo Freire photo
We roped up together and left around 9 AM and reached the summit around 2:30 PM. The route was pretty straight forward, with a short section of rock scrambling along the ridgeline to the top. Later I learned that 32 people reached the summit on this day, which set a new record. I overheard someone state that the temperature on top was ‑30 degrees F. There was an occasional 10 to 15 mph breeze.
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Ossy, Urszula, J.P. and Dave on the summit. Oswaldo Freire photo
On the way down, we stopped for a break. I happened to be first in line on the rope and after I dropped my backpack I turned around I saw Ossy was standing right next to me with a big grin on his face and holding up his right arm waiting for me to give him a high five. I swung my right arm back into a big wind up and gave him an enthusiastic high five followed by a warm embrace. This climb was special for our guide Ossy too, for this was his first ascent of Vinson. Once we arrived back at High Camp, Urszula walked up to me to give me a big hug and I told her how happy and proud I was for her to have reached the summit.
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Panorama from the summit towards Mt. Shinn. Oswaldo Freire photo
January 16th
I slept long and well. We left High Camp around mid-day with huge loads for the descent of the headwall. We reached Low Camp around mid-afternoon, where we took a long break to eat, drink and to reload some of our gear onto sleds.
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Basking in the warmth of the sun at our kitchen, before heading down to Base Camp. Oswaldo Freire photo
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Seracs between Vinson Base Camp and Low Camp. Dave Creeden photo
Then we completed our journey down the Branscomb Glacier to Vinson Base Camp. It was worth the effort to go all the way to Vinson Base Camp, so we didn’t have to set and break down camp at Low Camp.
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Group heading down Branscomb Glacier, with sleds in tow. Oswaldo Freire photo
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Welcome sign at Vinson Base Camp. Dave Creeden photo
January 17th
The order in which climbing groups arrived at Vinson Base Camp basically determined the order in which people flew out to Union Glacier field camp. Several parties began flying out by Twin Otter in the late morning and early afternoon. Our turn arrived around 5 PM. We had fantastic views on our flight to Union Glacier, arriving in time for a wonderful meal. I also stamped my passport with the Vinson stamp!
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fimg006-XL.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=8afb04373321406388524ba4e14e5334 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fimg006-XL.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=87630c0cf4be443b2dfdb9b9fe332941 339w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fimg006-XL.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=59d571e9838b94bdc975a2b1828b4fdb 339w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fimg006-XL.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=4a1a8cfe6cfe48301f99b508df14a933 339w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fimg006-XL.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=ed8197cf91df7aae2d8e222dbb08cc78 339w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fimg006-XL.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=7f3ae1751da2f55c24ee0edbe92b4c76 339w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fimg006-XL.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=0e749c7682a82b129a0f4d4f49648ef4 339w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fimg006-XL.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=911145783ede887686a6bed18299ff44 339w)
Passport with the Antarctica rubber stamps! Dave Creeden photo
January 18 – 21
It was very windy overnight on the 18th, with the vestibules of our tent being filled by wind driven snow. The next scheduled flight by the Ilyushin to Punta Arenas was scheduled for the 20th. The high winds and cold temperatures continued through the 20th, preventing us from departing as hoped. I spent time reading, listening to music and attending twice daily presentations by Adam of the ALE staff about various polar explorers. The weather broke clear and calm on the morning of the 21st, which, to everyone’s joy, allowed us to fly to Punta Arenas arriving in town around 8 PM.
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Loading gear at Union Glacier field camp for departure to blue ice runway. Dave Creeden photo
January 22 – 25
Spent part of the morning of the 22nd at the LAN Chile office re-booking my flights home, with my departure being early on the 24th. The return flight was not as efficient as my flight down, as I was in transit over 40 hours. Thus ended an incredible trip to Antarctica, which included awesome sights and the chance to meet numerous people from all over the world.
~ MM Climber Dave Creeden