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Third Time’s a Charm on Mt. Kenya
MM return client Per Ostberg shares his story of his recent climb of Mount Kenya. For those of you who are looking for exotic new high altitude rock objectives, Mount Kenya is a great place to start!
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F1524222_573507439403224_764931010_o.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=c772321dd4f23a443b794d8dde721b40 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F1524222_573507439403224_764931010_o.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=3ec954523c1aeaf21647b3b7279fff72 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F1524222_573507439403224_764931010_o.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=4964f419fbd38b86c44496d66ba20292 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F1524222_573507439403224_764931010_o.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=a3429f002362021390870f3b7cc9a404 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F1524222_573507439403224_764931010_o.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=ecb3a1a743c62faad0ce57877cbd00eb 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F1524222_573507439403224_764931010_o.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=ee047eb6559565ef9d02e1a965cce585 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F1524222_573507439403224_764931010_o.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=229a5cfc13b33067c80104e043876a2d 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F1524222_573507439403224_764931010_o.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=d235e7605aef64f2356e505e3c35ce69 1024w)
Mount Kenya. Per Ostberg photo
“Umrgmmph,” I grunted and shifted inside my little rock hollow. I tried to move a stone from under my left shoulder blade to lower down the right side. I could hear my neck vertebrae grinding and protesting. “My chiropractor would love me for this,” I thought. I opened an eye and squinted. The moon was so bright it almost blocked out the Milky Way! It was 3:30am, 13th of January, 2014, and I was lying on the summit of Nelion (5 188 meters / 17 021 ft.) in central Kenya. Fishing out a cigarette and lighter from the depth of my cozy sleeping bag, I contemplated the last four days.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F1506152_573507846069850_944562537_o.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=235caf8ee8a004b70684c5eac101453d 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F1506152_573507846069850_944562537_o.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=1546a53e2ceaebbcbd005aaed47c3aba 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F1506152_573507846069850_944562537_o.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=9bae19d6710e3ad342858b41d2ac0319 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F1506152_573507846069850_944562537_o.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=b514a82bf345669719b95ffe2b4f4f90 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F1506152_573507846069850_944562537_o.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=f7cb8eb050f165684c522fc0f2444235 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F1506152_573507846069850_944562537_o.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=21036784c24ca123774e9bb238e73d30 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F1506152_573507846069850_944562537_o.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=9b132be47b9d7e28fefb8d45d8e8b8fa 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F1506152_573507846069850_944562537_o.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=8a7fea2f8a9df6d919088bfbda59f2ca 1024w)
The team on an acclimatization hike. Per Ostberg photo
I met MM Guide Marc Ripperger and his client Dana Goodman in Nairobi six days earlier. We had bumped north in a mini bus up to Naru Moru, did some last minute repacking and headed for Nanyuki and then the hills beyond. In Mountain Madness’ last letter I was told my local climbing guide would be James Kagamb but little did I know that James is better known as “KG”, a legend in African climbing and mountaineering. What an absolute treat to be able to climb with him again! See, this was not the first time I had met KG. When I attempted Mt. Kenya the first time back in 2003, I had been fortunate enough to climb with him then as well.
This time we hiked in along the Sirimon Route. We crossed the equator, and slept at Old Moses Camp (3 300 m/10 830 ft.), Likii North Hut camp (3 993 m / 13 100 ft.), Shipton’s Camp (4 200 m / 13 800 ft.) and finally reached our base camp at Austrian Hut (4 790 m / 15 715 ft.) after a final scramble up Point Lenana (4 985 m / 16 355 ft.), which was located on the opposite side of Mt. Kenya . Our hiking route traversed the mountain in such a way that it gave us an interesting perspective of the many faces of Mt. Kenya, the valleys leading in and the varied climatic zones. From lush rain forest, via the highland heath zone into a barren rock and glacier strewn alpine zone.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F1501375_573510726069562_2002082847_o.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=844a4c30a245a3e3b8c970a2bbc79e5c 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F1501375_573510726069562_2002082847_o.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=3cae0e897669b4cff687a9adfc389874 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F1501375_573510726069562_2002082847_o.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=cad1cd717c7a5d9bac42d7ed6b39cadd 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F1501375_573510726069562_2002082847_o.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=056685ccd1b15d249311599079220458 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F1501375_573510726069562_2002082847_o.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=b477afce2a3c654a79e804729fa39bda 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F1501375_573510726069562_2002082847_o.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=0f066794084676916e3db2bcb0282f79 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F1501375_573510726069562_2002082847_o.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=c094c9695275bf50ca0ab8f216e4821e 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F1501375_573510726069562_2002082847_o.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=ff447c8d627b674b31e78206e06060af 1024w)
Marc and Per hiking in. Per Ostberg photo
On arriving at our base camp, instead of doing a training and acclimatization climb on Point John, we decided to take advantage of the good weather, our feelings of strength and go for the summits the very next day.
That morning we awoke at 4am and had some breakfast. We had a slow crossing of the Lewis Glacier, a gruelling walk up a scree slope that took us up to the base of South-East Face Route and finally on to Nelion’s summit. It had turned into a blissfully hot day with little wind and clear blue skies! A perfect day for climbing. The crux pitch, the 5.8 De Graaf’s Variation, was climbed more with brute strength than style and technique. All in all it took us just under 5.5 hours to climb with approx. 28lbs in the pack. Once on top, the mist came in and obscured the view of Batian, 270 meters from Nelion across the Gate of Mists.
When Marc and Dana arrived a couple of hours later, we looked at each other. Seven people in the little tin sardine box called Howell Hut, designed for four, would be a squeeze. I gave up after three hours and found my little rock hollow under the stars! What an improvement!
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F1498081_573509209403047_1235781840_o.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=131a1094a2edfc7e0be0e931add8bacd 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F1498081_573509209403047_1235781840_o.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=a21acef7cbeaf2785a40ae97e43631ea 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F1498081_573509209403047_1235781840_o.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=80e3f1cf1b4d336e17b3f866452d2042 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F1498081_573509209403047_1235781840_o.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=817a3b013fccb54fd0eb91ace68d1b24 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F1498081_573509209403047_1235781840_o.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=9a6a2173a9c6df7a747a0f37b9b190fe 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F1498081_573509209403047_1235781840_o.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=aff178365ec84050db69a61caf015e1d 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F1498081_573509209403047_1235781840_o.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=85f0811854ad8e2bee3188e42934ce78 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F1498081_573509209403047_1235781840_o.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=77a75aa26be6e11f7133842876a5e260 1024w)
Looking across the Gates of Mist at Nelion. Per Ostberg photo
With sunrise came the wind. While munching down on yet another Snickers bar, we mulled our options. Down or across? Marc and Dana decided to go down. KG, David (a Mt. Kenya ranger and climbing guide) and myself followed others across the Gate of Mists to the summit of Batian (5 199 meters / 17,057 ft.). The exposed scramble up to the summit ridge was easlily one of the highlights of the trip. This, along with the view down the steep snow field towards Shipton’s Camp and the 60 – 70 degree snow slope up towards Nelion from the Gate of Mists, were images I would not easily forget.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F76058_573508992736402_1173251511_n.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=511a2a88ea58eb97fcee5728387d3b72 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F76058_573508992736402_1173251511_n.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=d02d3b3e61d914772fa60cc0c5900da9 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F76058_573508992736402_1173251511_n.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=748713d8425ee7b922e8fb463343d15a 576w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F76058_573508992736402_1173251511_n.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=bb939c2848584023bafb520933112013 576w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F76058_573508992736402_1173251511_n.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=64c4234540db660b3f6c0ab290914fc4 576w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F76058_573508992736402_1173251511_n.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=5bc54f7ad16f29beebf98135c6ef43fd 576w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F76058_573508992736402_1173251511_n.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=ca4620d294ab7bf7149ccc24f69081d9 576w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F76058_573508992736402_1173251511_n.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=218d9b1a2c31580e7757bc687cde56f7 576w)
Steep snow in the Gates of Mist. Per Ostberg photo
Later that evening, after half a bottle of celebratory Jameson, I collapsed in my tent back at Austrian Hut with a happy glow of success on my face. Now all we had to do was walk out via the Naro Moru route, passing Mackinder’s Camp, the Vertical Bog and the Met Station. Follow that with a bus ride back to Nairobi and a final flight home to South Africa! This was my third attempt at climbing Mt Kenya; third time lucky, indeed!
~ MM Climber Per Ostberg
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F1596950_573509092736392_653329674_o.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=bacb7cf74d22331dc4ac562ea94018e6 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F1596950_573509092736392_653329674_o.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=3928a7ad46eac636fb414a426dacb6f2 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F1596950_573509092736392_653329674_o.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=f040b01cb28d58b76ef995b367bc763a 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F1596950_573509092736392_653329674_o.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=e155d658b60f2632c9218c40118ace0f 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F1596950_573509092736392_653329674_o.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=6973854a7d20522b4afa422478b16547 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F1596950_573509092736392_653329674_o.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=8fbf249aeebfda18143e37eaaffecb6b 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F1596950_573509092736392_653329674_o.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=f003d2c8c270936e081d34ec9d922010 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2F1596950_573509092736392_653329674_o.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=359dafe32fcd7e68fad46cdd4922a5ed 1024w)
On the summit of Batian. Per Ostberg photo