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Stories from the Andes of Ecuador, getting schooled and knowing when to turn around
By MM guide Mallorie Estenson
Trip: Ecuador Mountaineering School & Ecuador Volcanoes Expedition
My watch begins beeping, piercing the tranquil darkness around me. I hear a few sighs. Someone rolls over in their sleeping bag. My illuminated watch face tells me it’s 12:00am. Go time.
Outside my window, the wind whistles through Refugio Ruales-Oleas-Berge. My instinct is to nestle deeper into my sleeping bag. Instead I add an extra layer before putting on my hardshell layers. By now, everyone is awake and there’s an excited, nervous energy in the air. For several people on our team, this will be their first Ecuadorian volcano and first experience with thin air at high altitude.
We make our way to a communal dining room for an alpine-start breakfast: grilled cheese, granola and yogurt. We sip sugary teas and instant coffee. Carabiners make tinkling sounds as we pull our harnesses on, attach our headlamps to our helmets, and make final adjustments to our boots.
![Ecuador climber](https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Ecuador-climber.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1833&q=80&w=2200&s=cc9ec8c012753f4e875c459a1a4585c3 2200w 1833h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Ecuador-climber.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1667&q=80&w=2000&s=8ef1b8d4f863036e457ab26bbdd1b9b5 2000w 1667h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Ecuador-climber.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1500&q=80&w=1800&s=2c2a1e2c9cceddc50af81001d29c4139 1800w 1500h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Ecuador-climber.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1333&q=80&w=1600&s=f3bd3d7728e47ebd5542f0a7913f73b1 1600w 1333h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Ecuador-climber.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1167&q=80&w=1400&s=358d91fd29de56fb923f36ec89e9ceeb 1400w 1167h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Ecuador-climber.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1000&q=80&w=1200&s=aac86b20cf92efbb88db59846f3f21a1 1200w 1000h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Ecuador-climber.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=833&q=80&w=1000&s=398bbe8a0d023c5949195796ab72d06e 1000w 833h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Ecuador-climber.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=667&q=80&w=800&s=564f95a093f8af734837152c066bdcd6 800w 667h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Ecuador-climber.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=500&q=80&w=600&s=0e626304fa54bd7def3b024c7d375b5d 600w 500h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Ecuador-climber.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=333&q=80&w=400&s=eb6df0e1f3a4eb0c43af96e4f1890fef 400w 333h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Ecuador-climber.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=167&q=80&w=200&s=9f90c87ba9220f49ad06afef538948a1 200w 167h)
![Ecuador climber 7](https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/ecuador-climber-7.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1833&q=80&w=2200&s=62994866fd071a2f76007c9b72330390 2200w 1833h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/ecuador-climber-7.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1667&q=80&w=2000&s=3f221b55a90947b7063b1d0af721b361 2000w 1667h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/ecuador-climber-7.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1500&q=80&w=1800&s=402ff16c2a7139091bbcc378d3775939 1800w 1500h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/ecuador-climber-7.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1333&q=80&w=1600&s=fd705bdc4d49b5e252c1bf0005264275 1600w 1333h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/ecuador-climber-7.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1167&q=80&w=1400&s=716ff278afc29ae51cd2215971710a2f 1400w 1167h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/ecuador-climber-7.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1000&q=80&w=1200&s=3548ff6dfec25f940e7b31d313d571f6 1200w 1000h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/ecuador-climber-7.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=833&q=80&w=1000&s=128bac67b807335a46c075d246e2d6b5 1000w 833h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/ecuador-climber-7.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=667&q=80&w=800&s=d918cde379146c91794c183e1e365897 800w 667h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/ecuador-climber-7.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=500&q=80&w=600&s=d72a136ed7642b6032dfb468d1afbaf7 600w 500h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/ecuador-climber-7.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=333&q=80&w=400&s=8fd8979613af4baf0cf594666fdce72c 400w 333h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/ecuador-climber-7.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=167&q=80&w=200&s=b5fab56954ae7a087d0356d300b5fc9c 200w 167h)
![Ecuador climber 5](https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/ecuador-climber-5.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1833&q=80&w=2200&s=98b77ee396656246ea1c8118dc724386 2200w 1833h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/ecuador-climber-5.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1667&q=80&w=2000&s=3f45cb72df92ecb15122fecf237c9d83 2000w 1667h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/ecuador-climber-5.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1500&q=80&w=1800&s=63e2c68e60ad2150f32d89a1e1c2660e 1800w 1500h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/ecuador-climber-5.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1333&q=80&w=1600&s=a170662bd1eb635bab06937e97cc9f9e 1600w 1333h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/ecuador-climber-5.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1167&q=80&w=1400&s=175f41834da0531ee78d7def0d03c93b 1400w 1167h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/ecuador-climber-5.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1000&q=80&w=1200&s=b676d4b3a0d47c5fce8d6ecb3f8fdef8 1200w 1000h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/ecuador-climber-5.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=833&q=80&w=1000&s=21f25ed7e927e52cb939f9f867e5d1f0 1000w 833h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/ecuador-climber-5.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=667&q=80&w=800&s=4e8fdbb5f72b12400b2441ec8db01ffb 800w 667h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/ecuador-climber-5.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=500&q=80&w=600&s=53a7887a15590b180ee8f36428194ee6 600w 500h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/ecuador-climber-5.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=333&q=80&w=400&s=24e308309173c66d4a56c47a8556148c 400w 333h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/ecuador-climber-5.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=167&q=80&w=200&s=a7a908a43519907a2be12ac0964ced46 200w 167h)
The wind whips around me as I step outside of the hut. I see faster teams ahead making their way up the rocky steps to attain the glacier. My rope team of three falls in step and we begin the journey up. We walk slowly, giving our bodies a chance to respond to the altitude. The day before, the team was shuttled up to the hut at 15,092 feet (4,600 meters.) My heart beats faster and my breath is heavy. I’m surprised by how quickly my body reacts to the altitude; I’m constantly aware of it and drinking water accordingly.Step by step, we make our way to the glacier more than 1,000 vertical feet above the hut. We travel as a team, which helps regulate our slow and steady pace. Above 16,000 feet, the precipitation comes in the form of snow, which feels like less suffering than facing the rain. In the time it takes to apply my crampons to my boots, I become acutely aware of the fact that it’s time to put on my heavier ski gloves instead of returning to the softshell gloves I’ve been using.
Together, my rope team and I find our comfortable rhythm. It’s slow, steady and sustainable. Only seeing what’s contained Mountawithin the small halo of light emitted from my headlamp, the night passes slowly. The snow is firm beneath my crampons, which aids my uphill progress. However, the wind remains constant and shortens communications. It frees us all up to focus on walking, breathing and motivating our way higher on the glacier.
![Ecuador climber 2](https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/ecuador-climber-2.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1833&q=80&w=2200&s=3ae5f61ffb9166d300fbc381a475b949 2200w 1833h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/ecuador-climber-2.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1667&q=80&w=2000&s=8544160dcea89d36567b9417b89dc9ba 2000w 1667h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/ecuador-climber-2.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1500&q=80&w=1800&s=f7b3f2ca3c0efce126d704501187c622 1800w 1500h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/ecuador-climber-2.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1333&q=80&w=1600&s=c6cdc932f318a9953a4ad9155570e7a9 1600w 1333h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/ecuador-climber-2.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1167&q=80&w=1400&s=b69f2798bfe6d06eb28809d261c2401a 1400w 1167h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/ecuador-climber-2.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1000&q=80&w=1200&s=2b507da03b6e156f2588c88f09cbd871 1200w 1000h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/ecuador-climber-2.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=833&q=80&w=1000&s=c69da8bb53e620c3cf4f2efe206002ed 1000w 833h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/ecuador-climber-2.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=667&q=80&w=800&s=1e96efa7f120d11f4d1aaba3545253e5 800w 667h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/ecuador-climber-2.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=500&q=80&w=600&s=7bc23b92971df2e9279e9baa45a33d5d 600w 500h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/ecuador-climber-2.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=333&q=80&w=400&s=32ec4e82463d4a11c5cf8efdc415f49e 400w 333h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/ecuador-climber-2.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=167&q=80&w=200&s=1433b4a626df600532d264eb9e20599c 200w 167h)
![Ecuador climber 3](https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/ecuador-climber-3.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1833&q=80&w=2200&s=61d44d0bc4eb18b8678b9ba0fe7b2956 2200w 1833h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/ecuador-climber-3.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1667&q=80&w=2000&s=39e7da8c02d4652a44ae45b03703002e 2000w 1667h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/ecuador-climber-3.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1500&q=80&w=1800&s=6cdfd00ef664ec8c2e7898e1e7c33d92 1800w 1500h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/ecuador-climber-3.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1333&q=80&w=1600&s=f64186510d43efa63ba3e3d4b1d62c2b 1600w 1333h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/ecuador-climber-3.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1167&q=80&w=1400&s=640437e88ec06c82ad3910554fe999c5 1400w 1167h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/ecuador-climber-3.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1000&q=80&w=1200&s=6e69487d4b69e4e8680d011854cf6dc0 1200w 1000h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/ecuador-climber-3.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=833&q=80&w=1000&s=8a9ad553016ae416295400937db6b85f 1000w 833h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/ecuador-climber-3.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=667&q=80&w=800&s=19f2c6f661c86cad49066a8cad869677 800w 667h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/ecuador-climber-3.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=500&q=80&w=600&s=420ec913bb35b9722dd6e48db84cc15f 600w 500h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/ecuador-climber-3.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=333&q=80&w=400&s=bae9fea7593c511e981726098be4b651 400w 333h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/ecuador-climber-3.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=167&q=80&w=200&s=49725fd08ea9d88f84c67875f2c52077 200w 167h)
![Ecuador climber 4](https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Ecuador-climber-4.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1833&q=80&w=2200&s=e2dcf5dae43e520c56e9f78cc5fb099d 2200w 1833h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Ecuador-climber-4.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1667&q=80&w=2000&s=070a799e8c6e860206b0f0bdcae06df4 2000w 1667h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Ecuador-climber-4.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1500&q=80&w=1800&s=df9c5191c37fb07a83f416dc93747dfe 1800w 1500h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Ecuador-climber-4.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1333&q=80&w=1600&s=3e74d540b21a70003d5775a0e76e8752 1600w 1333h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Ecuador-climber-4.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1167&q=80&w=1400&s=b55c936b2a03eced901162e2b6357fba 1400w 1167h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Ecuador-climber-4.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=1000&q=80&w=1200&s=dd3aa929a76596e4d9353a1685e71cba 1200w 1000h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Ecuador-climber-4.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=833&q=80&w=1000&s=66efcd11e240b7e7059ee55f698b9975 1000w 833h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Ecuador-climber-4.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=667&q=80&w=800&s=3decb9e78df7b2e2e06c850554b962af 800w 667h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Ecuador-climber-4.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=500&q=80&w=600&s=5ba13861165e77254ceaa88acc1a627a 600w 500h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Ecuador-climber-4.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=333&q=80&w=400&s=4680d6e3b6813541dcc6632c27ee777b 400w 333h, https://mountain-madness.imgix.net/general-images/Ecuador-climber-4.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&crop=focalpoint&fit=crop&fp-x=0.5&fp-y=0.5&h=167&q=80&w=200&s=957889bea6ffac36b27eaccbf5d2d6d3 200w 167h)
Gradually, the light begins to change. Instead of just simple, utter darkness punctuated by distant headlamps simultaneously ahead and above me, I can begin to make out the form of the rock, ice and snow around me. We arrive at a bench for sunrise. In the distance, I can see Cotopaxi and Antisana parting the clouds that hover beneath us around 16,000 feet. It’s a beautiful morning. After some photos, water, smiles and some high fives, we carry on toward the imposing snowdomes that comprise the summit. Almost as soon as we start, we see the faster teams coming down the hill. The wind prevents distant communication, so we wait for them to approach. We learn that avalanche danger is such that a summit is out of the cards. A thick wind crust sitting atop sugary, faceted snow indicates that today is not the day to travel in avalanche terrain.
Having climbed to 18,000 feet, nobody is disappointed. We feel accomplished for pressing on through challenging conditions and rewarded by the gorgeous views at sunrise. And besides, we still have two more volcanoes to climb: Cotopaxi and Chimborazo. Missing the summit on Cayambe represents an opportunity to become more acclimatized and prepared for those to come. A win for the team.