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- Sep 15, 2011
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Mt. Stuart: One of “50 Classic Climbs of N. America”
“One of “The 50 Classic Climbs of North America”, the North Ridge of Mount Stuart, is a mega-classic 20-pitch rock route jutting out of the Stuart Glacier on the eastern slopes of the Cascades. Dan Whitmore had been dreaming about climbing the North Ridge of Mt. Stuart since he started climbing, and now we were hoping to make that dream a reality.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart1.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=2f728dc2d7e998c283fbca8e619e00df 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart1.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=0c72388ffc6ab508ec98da626328f848 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart1.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=e0e54fd52d82be093e346d02dddeb320 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart1.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=7780a1b31c5a6681a1aff790287cf75b 767w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart1.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=797e808f75fd3ec5d8b45fc4e8322345 767w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart1.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=a19c6a50500799b33148a2db0c518a3b 767w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart1.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=00ff97d409c16eb29ef0b37453b1347b 767w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart1.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=34d7d2280a4ad6e123f081d1b23181bd 767w)
Ian Nicholson photo
“Dan picked me up at my house in Seattle and we were on our way stopping only for the mouth-drooling Cle Elum Bakery on the way. The North Ridge is a carry-over route, meaning that you need to carry your tent, stove and all your supplies up and over the route. We schemed about how to go as light as possible and when we left the trail-head, our packs weighed around 25 and 29 pounds.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart2.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=7f72359836f3c61a71e84ac34501221d 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart2.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=89c9e061d6a7bfb6bf693e14a4e66862 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart2.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=3db2a98fb81489fad32699b7f7014df7 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart2.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=eb0feebb3e8a4bed04e097ea7abd9a81 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart2.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=fd6a7de2be3737b02b3e3afcb28c7e1a 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart2.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=d5f291712ec8e2abc4c5220ccadf16c7 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart2.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=6986877f66395395a83ab922089a6d00 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart2.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=d66c539607ffc3049338c40b6be69748 1024w)
Mt. Stuart. Ian Nicholson photo
“We made the long hike up over Ingalls Pass, Ingalls Lake Pass, Stuart Pass, and Goat Pass; a steep hike with a good amount of cross country travel and nearly 4,500 feet of elevation gain to our camp at the edge of the Stuart Glacier.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart4.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=17523bdcf56187108211c7dfaa9cb439 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart4.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=3f455a77ab83d178175134c5cfbcd0e7 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart4.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=1ab2c80ee9fade65a418936841019660 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart4.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=d3826edc8dfd049b072251a16ba556bc 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart4.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=3a9213ace5e4bcc8203a10097ae5d2e5 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart4.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=1a4a2de31c9135393691b0fe79d96187 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart4.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=7b1625e70fddcd23f68290ea0e1f0c5e 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart4.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=71fc41814f7a4178fda277a8ac22b831 1024w)
Ingalls Lake. Ian Nicholson photo
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart7.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=e7d32145fe9e198e369beb3f24bc0ebf 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart7.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=b8f47f7ae49a4ea75b2f659f7ed182bf 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart7.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=015c448b307df2bb4bc61dd1537f723b 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart7.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=21ee6f83c639bf3a9b56933db2c8b130 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart7.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=f20310d23530831f2bc8eb33fcb09bc5 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart7.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=0f6ed6d94df754333b4f778f863fb726 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart7.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=dc4e4610cf6afa72f8caa7e9a72b3a45 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart7.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=241d6313d35624bd845be88e80041215 1024w)
Camp near Goat Pass. Ian Nicholson photo
“The next morning our alarm went off at 4:20 a.m. and we were packed and hiking across the glacier in our approach shoes and crampons by 5:15. We gained the ridge by the first light and began the first of 20 pitches. In the beginning the pitches blur together a little, each on excellent granite on or very near the ridge crest with excellent exposure… until you get to pitch 13, the infamous “Great Gendarme” and the crux of the route.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart10.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=cd0ec1a91898dd9c9f45b51be045b434 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart10.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=54caf5eea939ed521379cb18e7569314 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart10.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=ef717cbe102c1fff63217085fc720fbb 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart10.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=65d258d59804544f1dc5cd983ef8dfdc 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart10.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=55c1a236fda7a72b1757b8078e3b1204 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart10.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=f417a1d752e99f82791b91a4d2dd9df4 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart10.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=35636cc2785c80b54a66ba6a9cb4fd53 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart10.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=830cfa888c84f0fa2cdc76b6e2c59ef7 1024w)
Splitter Cascade granite. Ian Nicholson photo
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart12.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=32ef1bc3c4f1d18420f892cfb150e4d7 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart12.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=023ae676702cc190065459ea0b9b5c92 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart12.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=c78d65737435343ecb4c614c27ee644c 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart12.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=afc1d87d67262226b2c4f940ec61215c 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart12.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=277a56a26c8084bf4c4cb3e2078456bd 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart12.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=e77a8fdb5c8bf193ed21f010e7a9334f 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart12.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=7c2a04781654b57391ddb57b19594c7e 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart12.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=c5b4a3483acae99bd425304d056fa0a4 1024w)
Along the exposed spine of rock on the first half of the route. Ian Nicholson photo
“I tied into the middle of the rope and I hauled both our packs on the first pitch. Dan did incredibly well, considering he claimed he “hadn’t rock climbed as much as he would have liked” before the trip. The second off-width pitch felt nearly as easy and we took a small break to take in our surroundings and eat some well-desereved snacks knowing that the crux was now behind us.
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart13.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=58f3bb6b921c8daee28a01831ccb3cfa 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart13.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=6a9c442d500318d8f8a7d4f5d655e93a 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart13.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=d782cb62db93306bc82d95a4a7a84070 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart13.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=a2d216a15ee92efb90ec84b4a734ece5 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart13.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=bed2b3d4560b90e48c0d82c619b4b558 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart13.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=d01ad8761aaaa965facfefa9242da707 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart13.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=3130a67df128f6d9348e41b68ef5e253 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart13.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=d1040006bab3fc335889ecdd5c1d7d74 1024w)
Airy climbing on easy to moderate terrain (5.4−5.6). Ian Nicholson photo
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart14.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=e50d296db39f012b8c4d3790681aaa5c 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart14.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=f35ef625dab2290fa4a1478e9a911493 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart14.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=c436486204e30b323c0ac4f19f8c3c23 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart14.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=2d830812e793499fae685d6e151150d9 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart14.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=7afe369f80e1e5e7855cb518eb711461 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart14.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=baa4f6a108b18790348a86edda58b8d1 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart14.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=0373c566297f653c724273b70400d615 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart14.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=c096c2dfd6a8f4fa8915925e2197e914 1024w)
On the Gendarme- the hard way on the upper ridge (5.9)- this can be bypassed at about 5.6. Ian Nicholson photo
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart15.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=07df455e33afc5042b83e9c5f6e1918f 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart15.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=ea5c2557151e4608fe195ca730ee4e32 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart15.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=b21c246507ca43e57e25f39957836b95 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart15.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=71e943e31e963c0e889f74f116e70cd5 767w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart15.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=f3249bca017f84e10b6b778847485915 767w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart15.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=569d9640970e3b2ee8437c68926d18e1 767w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart15.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=8e6895a37fd606533f26ac52bf27f5a5 767w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart15.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=ce7977f7dc73e3141515c6a9f398c731 767w)
Looking down the third pitch of the gendarme. Ian Nicholson photo
“Above the “Great Gendarme” we climbed 6 more pitches to the summit and realized the dream Dan had had so long ago. The summit was beautiful, with clear skies (despite overcast weather in Seattle) with no wind. We spent nearly an hour on top where we each made a call to our wives and the Mountain Madness office (of course).
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart17.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=362d2ffe7a5dc3e4cb99e206e0fe6029 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart17.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=3d7469d6e18aafb4ec0f2796301d2d8a 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart17.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=314c3077dbed9dae55eaa012c025d99d 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart17.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=b1118e666fe312c9aacdc3b254a2adcf 767w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart17.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=42ab838a9d3b4e6f3b19a8ff89fe0cf9 767w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart17.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=86e5b4bf48ccdbcadee99460568610be 767w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart17.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=003177240349a60f575046204c0cdc03 767w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart17.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=3d11904964ba64af0e1c8f057c2d9d9c 767w)
Almost there! Ian Nicholson photo
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart20.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=94bc954cdc4746924512c8d1dea72a10 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart20.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=55a600d36bfcad24e205987bd3770a1d 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart20.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=1897c9c40b1e1ff5988ddc034cae6795 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart20.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=681d9f366e441d3f6c4da234d905448f 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart20.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=e94308c2a50e5c5f8d1eb621f13655d9 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart20.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=d7508ac17a8dcab29be0649ffad1f1b7 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart20.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=1da4ad403f94ab1fd912581b8a05d964 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart20.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=4325976ad171bca5c3ff78b7d4130bcb 1024w)
Way to go Dan! Ian Nicholson photo
![](https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart22.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=300&s=740e1914c044ddd7f0c9e42b36a9f63c 300w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart22.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=500&s=06db75eeb706c84f2cb81747909ebca3 500w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart22.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=700&s=76b738ea472ecd7262cce5064f5ab451 700w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart22.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=800&s=2d45427558e32445a18d62ee8c852241 800w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart22.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1000&s=b7b00203cd1c99951247891b9a7b0f9f 1000w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart22.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1200&s=9c8c42fb4c7efb103a8406ca5daf6b28 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart22.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1400&s=f9fa41d1c7c2566293aa4addcb01ee56 1024w, https://mountain-madness-external.imgix.net/https%3A%2F%2Fkraftwerk-mountain-madness.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fblog%2Fnewswire%2FMtStuart22.jpg?auto=compress%2Cformat&fit=max&q=80&w=1600&s=3f47c378eec5586dc7035676f754d2c9 1024w)
Nice job Ian! Ian Nicholson photo
“We descended the Cascadian Couloir and made it to the Ingalls Creek trail and the small camp ground at the Longs Pass trail intersection just before dark. The next day we reluctantly hiked the 1,500 feet of vertical gain to get to Longs Pass before we were able to drop down 2,000 feet back to our car.”
~ Ian Nicholson