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- Oct 02, 2014
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Into Mustang

All phoÂtos by Deana Zabaldo
Once part of westÂern Tibet and latÂer subÂsumed by Nepal, MusÂtang is an ancient kingÂdom on the cusp of change. Tantric BudÂdhism still thrives, yet the first cofÂfee shops have sprung up. Most peoÂple are busy with the grain harÂvest, but many young peoÂple have left the area in search of betÂter work. FifÂteenth cenÂtuÂry deities are worÂshipped and appeased at dark altars and every home has a priÂvate prayer room, yet cell phones, road develÂopÂment, and politÂiÂcal disÂcusÂsion are equalÂly at the fore. It has been a magÂiÂcal and chalÂlengÂing trek into an ancient culÂture meetÂing the modÂern world.


Bright orange and white mud-splashed chortÂens mark the entry to vilÂlages in MusÂtang. HousÂes are built snugÂly togethÂer in the Tibetan style, proÂtectÂing against attacks of weathÂer and invaders. A labyrinth of narÂrow alleys is formed, with doorÂways marked by shamanÂisÂtic conÂcocÂtions of aniÂmal skulls, spirÂit catchÂers, grass, and wood to ward off evil spirÂits. Rooftops are piled with fireÂwood and tall verÂtiÂcal wind-whipped prayer flags. Sun and wind are relentÂless here, givÂing everyÂthing a hard weathÂered qualÂiÂty, even the people.


Women wear dark ankle-length dressÂes with long sleeve shirts and striped wool aprons around their hips. They carÂry sickÂles out to the fields and spend the day cutÂting barÂley and buckÂwheat. Men are in more westÂern type pants and shirts as they stack hay, ply threshÂing machines, or driÂve herds mixed of sheep, goats, cows, and horsÂes. PeoÂple smile and easÂiÂly return our waves and greetÂings, but they are genÂerÂalÂly shy of camÂeras, so if they allow a picÂture we make sure to share the images, which everyÂone seems to enjoy.


We hike long days, mostÂly in two direcÂtions – UP or DOWN. We are rewardÂed with expanÂsive views of NilÂgiri, TiliÂcho, Thorong Peak, the Snow Yak, and occaÂsionÂalÂly DhaulaÂgiri (the 7th highÂest mounÂtain in the world) as we jourÂney across the high plateau.
~ MM Guide Deana Zabaldo



DhaulaÂgiri, the 7th highÂest mounÂtain in the world